Tips for replacing belts on a 92 q45?

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kdkrone
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I am forced into replacing belts tomorrow. I am in process of looking through the manual but I have yet to come across any info.

Is the job best done from top or bottom? Does the fan need to come off? Is there a way to guesstimate the tension, as I don't have any way of measuring tension on the belts other than deflecting them by hand.

I am most grateful for any tips.

ThanksKen K


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elwesso
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http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=164327

An article I made a while back... Youll do most of your work from the top.

Couple of other "hints" that I just thought of.

Loosen the fan nuts before you do anything else.... You should take the fan off because it makes life easier....... The fan bolts are a lot easier to get off with the belt tight... When you get your wrench on there, give it a nice whack to break it free otherwise it will just turn the pulley from under the belt.. I normally just whack it with the palm of my hand, theyre not on real tight...

For tension, I just pull up on them and let them deflect about 1/4 inch before they start to get really tight... I put the water pump and alternator belt on tighter than the AC belt...

kdkrone
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Hi, Wes.

The deed is done. I found that it was easier to work on the 92 from the bottom.

I took off the bottom shroud, then took off the bottom part of the fan shroud. I went up top and took off the rest of the fan shroud plus a few pieces of the shrouding adjacent to it. That exposed the fan. I took out the bolts and that opened everything up pretty well. I removed the first two tensioners one by one, then loosened the rear-most (AC, I believe). I replaced the belts, played with the tension best as I could make out (I found the manual), tightened the tensioners, replaced the fan and shrouding and that was it. What I did not tell you was that the power steering belt was the wrong one; fortunately, Napa was open for another 15 minutes when I called, and I made it just in time.) I also did not tell you that if you are going to make a mistake and replace one of the old belts, make it the 7 rib alternator belt, as you don't have to take the fan off again, or any of the other belts. Ask me how I know.

The only issue that I may have is the tension of the belts. I decided to err on the tighter side, as I figure the belts will loosen over time. I will check them in about a week to see how they feel. I have no idea what kind of strain gauge is used to check the tension.

Thanks for the help, Ken

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elwesso
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Ken... Now you can see why I only recommend OEM because this kind of stuff happens all the time.

maxnix
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kdkrone wrote: I found that it was easier to work on the 92 from the bottom.

The only issue that I may have is the tension of the belts. I decided to err on the tighter side, as I figure the belts will loosen over time. I will check them in about a week to see how they feel. I have no idea what kind of strain gauge is used to check the tension.
You did it the correct way.

Belt tension is prescribed by measure of deflection at a certain amount of pull in the manual. Too tight and bearings wear prematurely. Too loose and the belt surface glazes when it slips.

kdkrone
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<<<Belt tension is prescribed by measure of deflection at a certain amount of pull in the manual. Too tight and bearings wear prematurely. Too loose and the belt surface glazes when it slips.>>>

For new belts the deflection is supposed to be about 8 mm at 20 lbs resistance. So how do you measure the distance and the resistance without some kind of gauge? I had to wing it with guessing the force (I gauged it based on the force needed for tamping coffee in my portafilter for espresso) and holding a tape meaure. I would love to hear how else one can do it without some snazzy tool.

And speaking of bearings, can the bearings in the tensioners be pressed out and replaced or is the unit sold as one piece? How long do they usually last before needing replacement.

ThanksKen

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CrimsonQ
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test with a small scale. pull style. kinda like the ones in a grocery stores produce aisle. And a ruler

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elwesso
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Let me say that this is NOT that exact of a science... Hell the belts expand and contract as it gets cold and stretch as they wear, the new spec is supposed to get you thru the entire service interval... You should be able to feel what is about "right". I can almost guarntee no dealer tech brings out a scale and measures the belt deflection, they just guess....

You are supposed to apply about 22lbs of force by pushing on the belt... Put your hand on a scale and keep pushing till you get to 22... by applying this force you should deflect ALL the belts about .3in. If you have active or HICAS the PS belt needs to be a little tighter...

If you think about it, thats pretty dang tight!!! I doubt my belts are on that tight right now!!

As far as the bearings, yes new ones can be pressed in... Every time you do the belts they should be inspected for smoothness. If they dont seem to roll smooth and quiet, you should get new ones in so you dont have a sudden failure.. Theyre not expensive either...

IN order for the belt to slip it has to be really really loose or under a lot of strain... Think cold weather and thick PS fluid....

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Why you select an oil change facility where the techs are familiar with your cars make and model and know what to look for when the belly pan is removed...........they should look at belts for cracks and increasing cracks and increasing cracks ..................and you should keep accurate replacement logs so you can decide way in advance which 90 day oil change will become a belt replacement service.

Why one has sick days at work to accomplish medical , dental, and car repairs...............so you can plan...............how you will be spending your prorated $600-$750 every 90 days............as long as you own the Q.

Always choose a doctor and dentist near the car repair facility.........after all GOOD automotive repairs are much harder to find than a doctor or dentist.

Haitian_King
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Wait. What belts?

I thought that the 92 Q was all chain. And only the guides needed to be replaced.

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Q451990
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Accessory belts... Power Steering, Water Pump, A/C Compressor...

Heath

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Ah. Had me scared there for a moment.

Ok. My belts are all in good condition i think.

DrewQ45
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maxnix wrote:You did it the correct way.

Belt tension is prescribed by measure of deflection at a certain amount of pull in the manual. Too tight and bearings wear prematurely. Too loose and the belt surface glazes when it slips.
If I was to choose an evil, I'd rather go with too loose than too tight. This is because the latter will eventually damage hardware. There's really nothing to it though... move the belt up and down and the entire excursion should be no more than a quarter inch. Hold a ruler against it if you need to but you should be able to eyeball it.

**What am I saying??? This was last December! **

maxnix
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Drew's rght, and a few quick stabs of the throotle while someone observes the belts and pulleys will establish their tension.

Experience and the proper tools are the best bet.


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