Tie Rod Ends
Tie Rod Ends
What is the expected life of the tie rod ends? Second, does it take a special tool to remove them, or can it be done with a wrench? Thanks!
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Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
If tie rods are gone have you checked the kingpin and its 2 bearings.Kind of system that all wears together, upper links, lower A arm bushings, sway bar bushings, tie rods inner and outer.
Need more than a wrench, plus relignment every time something in lower area that controls the toe parameters is changed.
A quarter of a turn is significant in toe!
Need more than a wrench, plus relignment every time something in lower area that controls the toe parameters is changed.
A quarter of a turn is significant in toe!
Got it! I have to replace the steering rack boots -- cracked. I have the upper links sitting in the garage and plan to put them on also. For the boots, I understand that you have to disconnect the tie rods from the ends and get a realignment. I am not noticing any steering, alignment or tire wearing issues at this time. I just wondered if I should replace the ends while I have them disconnected.
I noticed a clamp-like tool in the car manual. Was unsure if you could pry them out or use a c-clamp. Thanks
I noticed a clamp-like tool in the car manual. Was unsure if you could pry them out or use a c-clamp. Thanks
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VenCountyQ
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Fri Aug 15, 2003 8:44 am
The tie-rod ends on my 94Q were fine at 140K. The FSM lists the specifications to check. A $5 ball-joint/pittman remover from HarborFreight or your local auto parts store will work fine for removal. Toe is the only adjustable setting on the Q front-end and is an easy DIY. A quick search on the Internet will yield various quick methods. Calculations are made easier on the Q due to 0 being a target setting. Just make sure that when re-checking the measurement that you have driven the car after it has been jacked.
You can replace the steering rack boots w/o removing the tie-rod ball-joint from the steering knuckle. Simply jack up the front of the car and unlock the steering column. Put a horizontal dab of paint on the tie-rod shaft, loosen the locknut (wrench on tie-rod end and nut) and with a wrench on the tie-rod shaft unscrew until disconnected from the tie-rod end; carefully counting the turns with the aid of the paint mark. After boots are replaced reverse the procedure. Toe should be same as before, but to be safe check/set with one of the DIY procedures.
FYI, for all those considering replacing their upper links there is a TSB that lists suspension problems that are mistakenly identified as being the fault of bad upper links. Good reading.
You can replace the steering rack boots w/o removing the tie-rod ball-joint from the steering knuckle. Simply jack up the front of the car and unlock the steering column. Put a horizontal dab of paint on the tie-rod shaft, loosen the locknut (wrench on tie-rod end and nut) and with a wrench on the tie-rod shaft unscrew until disconnected from the tie-rod end; carefully counting the turns with the aid of the paint mark. After boots are replaced reverse the procedure. Toe should be same as before, but to be safe check/set with one of the DIY procedures.
FYI, for all those considering replacing their upper links there is a TSB that lists suspension problems that are mistakenly identified as being the fault of bad upper links. Good reading.