Post by
biosehnsucht »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/biosehnsucht-u13953.html
Mon Nov 14, 2005 11:20 pm
my KA's clutch fan pulled less air and its clutch was stuck always on - I couldn't feel it pulling air at idle past my hand in front of the condesnor+radiator.. (it did whip up a ton of turbulance BEHIND the radiator, but didn't pull for squat THROUGH it, even w/ the stock fanshroud in place.. I eventually just ditched it and wired the AC condensor fan to be always on w/ engine on not just ac on so it kicks in at 198+F.. ) of course the condesnsor is all kinds of fubar and won't flow well, but hte rad is a koyo now (was stock aftermarket replacement before, but that would haveh ardly flowed better being less than half the thickness and being almost new itself, so no major blockage there)
my dual 11" efans you can feel for sure.. altho they pull a ton of juice. I haven't properly wired them to a dual stage thermoswitch yet, so they both kick on w/ the stock AC switch at 198+F which isn't the best ( a bit hot to turn them on ) .. I got a nice VW/Audi switch just need to make up a pipe to fit it in (its some crazy huge almost 1" diameter thread) and redo the wiring a tad to run the fans independantly. Right now when it turns on the idle sags noticibly and the headlights dim, but then its only every coming on when I've just got off the highway and am stuck 3 cars back at a drive through
hell those fans pull so much air when they do come on they start cycling on for 1-3 secs then off for like 7-10 and repeat.. I'm considering find a large, high amp/watt tolerant resistor to drop the voltage on one fan for the low temp side of things, or something..
again, since it only ever matters when you're not going anywhere, either is really fine, but arguing that faster revs = more flow on mech fan is irrelevant, it will never matter, unless you like to try and blow engines waiting for the light to turn green.
I'd rather have e-fans just because its less directly loaded on the engine, and takes up less space, leaving more to work in. changing the alt used to be near impossible w/o removing the fan , had to get it lodged in the fanblades and rotate the fan w/ the alt around to the bottom to get it out.
a working clutch fan is fine, so are properly installed efan(s). Keep in mind mech fans are generally either temp controlled (temp through the water pump housing / belt drive / fan mount, not exactly highly accurate one way or another, but not normally an issue) or are some kind of inertial or some such rotational speed release gizmo (assumes at high speed you don't need to turn the fan, just let it freewheel in the airstream - which is a logical assumption). efan(s) done right will turn on only when temp requires it, but then again a sensor failure can be baaad.
Once properly installed, IMHO efan(s) are less of a hassle to deal with. If I bought a new car I wasn't going to have to monkey on I wouldn't change the stock setup (whatever it is), but since I am often screwing around with my car for some reason or another its worth the easier access to the engine area, along with the relatively increased reliability (for me - both my mech fans had bent fins - that would be bye bye water pump in no time - plus, IIRC both fan clutches were stuck in place like my old KA's was, sure sounds mean on high RPMs but no good for performance)
whee.. I'm a rambling man