The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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PapaSmurf2k3
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Hi Welcome to NICO, I just responded to the dedicated thread you've got on the subject.


rwlesher
Posts: 83
Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2012 7:19 pm
Car: '91 S13 SE
Location: Gulf Coast

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Im no electrician so I have a question pertaining to removing abs wiring to clean up a bit. My 91 s13 had the abs removed before I bought it. Now my question is are there any extra steps need to be taken besides just removing the wiring? I’ve read that people have done it just no step by step. I’d also like to do this with the hicas wiring as well since I’ve swapped the subframe. Thanks I’m advance

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PapaSmurf2k3
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There's a couple ABS computers and such throughout the car that you can remove as well.
I can't remember if I ended up cutting my harnesses that went to those modules, or just unplugged them.
If you cut anything, make sure you seal it up with liquid electrical tape or something.

rwlesher
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Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2012 7:19 pm
Car: '91 S13 SE
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SO I can just trace the wires back and remove them? I’d like to depin and completely remove the wiring from the car. I guess it makes sense the wires missing are basically the same as being there but unplugged. I was worried about relays and fuses and such. Ha No knowledge on electronics so I didn’t wanna start pulling wires then have electrical issues

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Yeah you could just pull the fuse to ABS and have it disabled... its as easy as that. From there, you can go as deep as you want into removing the computers, ABS module, and the wiring if you want to just save weight or something.

Underdogger
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Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2018 12:30 am
Car: 1995 240sx

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I recently bought a 1995 Nissan 240sx as my first project car as I am very interested in learning car mechanics, but have very basic knowledge on how they actually work, and the first thing I did was buy a battery as the one on it could barely hold a charge, but the windows and blinkers slightly worked with the old battery. I went and bought an entirely new battery, and upon hooking it up, only the headlights work (no windows, blinkers, brake lights, etc). I have done a little bit of research and I feel like it could've been the fuses, or the fusible link. I checked each fuse and none were blown out, and then went to check the fusible links. They all looked fine, except I couldn't disconnect the large black one. Could I get some assistance? (And if you have any suggestions as well I'd love to hear them)

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PapaSmurf2k3
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That is strange. You should only have a problem with them if you hooked the battery up backwards or something.
You should also look at your battery terminals themselves. If they are cracked or corroded/crusty looking, you wont be getting good contact.
Batteries are supposed to be mostly charged when you purchase them, but you could always just try to jump the car off to see if giving it more juice is what it needs.

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Danteska
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Joined: Fri Feb 23, 2018 9:13 am
Location: Spain

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Hi, I'm new here :P Currently looking for an S13 but their price gets higher and higher with the years, drift tax, I guess.

I'd like to ask why are there different versions of front-ends for the hatchback model.

One of them has a front bumper that looks like this:

Image

And the other one is like this:

Image

Was the front-end styling updated with the years or is this a difference between the US and the EU/JDM market variants?

Also, if I buy one that has a bumper like the one from the last image (which I don't like that much and I think it's called "pignose"), would it be possible to directly swap it to the one from the image above without a conversion kit?

_poo40sx
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Joined: Fri Feb 23, 2018 10:32 am
Car: 1995 240SX

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Question regarding exhaust:
First time 240sx owner, 1995 KA24DE. I'm driving along yesterday and my exhaust rusts off at the midpipe-to-header triangular flange. I've searched on the interweb for the past cumulative hour at work and have yet to find a full (header to muffler) system. I was wondering what would be a cost effective approach to having a full system again.

I was going to go to the local piping shop near me and have them tap out the triangular flange and fabricate a new midpipe that would bolt up to an aftermarket testpipe and, thereafter, catback system.

What have you guys found as far as headers and exhaust systems that will essentially bolt right up to the car and work well?

Thanks in advance!

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centralcoaster33
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Car: 240SX #5-1997
Location: Central Coast, CA

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Welcome Danteska to NICO Club!

The S13 chassis has the same headlights, hood and fenders is my understanding and there is a different bumper and different fender support that should bolt up to any of them. There's a thread that eventually get's off topic, but covers your questions here: show-me-a-decent-pignose-to-chuki-conve ... 39298.html

Welcome _poo40sx to NICO Club!

Congrats on your S14. 1995 is a great year to have and I miss mine. The exhaust is ancient and your lucky any of it is holding together. You can have a muffler shop use your old parts like the flange and o2 sensor bung and put on new pipe. That's quickest, cheapest and will fit best. Hotshot and DC headers 4-2-1 was a pretty good set up to the first cat I think. I got a Greddy 4-1 header that goes up to that triangle flange because I have to pass smog in CA. Catbacks are all over the place and typically 3". I've always been keen on 2.5" so I never bought a set. Check out BRM mufflers. It's custom made, shipped to you and bolt on fitment. You can make a more specific thread in the 240 section or search for exhaust.

_poo40sx
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Car: 1995 240SX

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Not sure if we're allowed to paste links for other sites here, so remove if not allowed. But this link https://www.protuninglab.com/95ni24s14r ... 0848870378 states that the setup is strictly for SOHC models from 95-98. I am not aware of any of those model years coming with SOHC. Will it fit and they're just misinformed? Or is it the more probable situation that I'M misinformed? haha. And thank you for your reply!

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centralcoaster33
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Car: 240SX #5-1997
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You're correct, it's DOHC. Type-o is my guess, crumby products have those. Not sure about their 'design'. Not equal length. As far as will it fit? That appears to be the sort you'll have to 'make fit'. Looks like EGR will be out of line, O2 could be pointed into the strut tower and the triangle flange is likely in the wrong spot at the wrong angle. That cat back will be louder for sure and may need tweaking in the hangers. A little cutting and welding... that's just from looking myself. Try finding at least a few positive reviews for that stuff (don't be surprised if they don't exist). I wouldn't touch it otherwise.

Power gains aren't really there for such a header design. Even mine is nearly a wash. I suggest running over to a muffler shop and getting it fixed good enough. Keep it stock and quiet for a while. Then drive more and see what your car needs while saving cash and getting used to the handling.

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Danteska
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centralcoaster33 wrote:
Fri Feb 23, 2018 1:20 pm
Welcome Danteska to NICO Club!

The S13 chassis has the same headlights, hood and fenders is my understanding and there is a different bumper and different fender support that should bolt up to any of them. There's a thread that eventually get's off topic, but covers your questions here: show-me-a-decent-pignose-to-chuki-conve ... 39298.html
Thanks. Yep, I guess I'm just like the guy from the thread you linked, my first love was a Chuki, and now I know the other one is called "Piggy" or Zenki (I also checked this thread here the-240sx-info-introduction-faq-thread- ... 83490.html and now know also a lot more than I knew when I registered earlier today) :) Anyway, it was useful, thank you, apparently not really considered a conversion as it just bolts up the same way.

Pauliekishi
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Joined: Wed May 16, 2018 7:29 am
Car: Getting back on my feet from back injury have no nissan yet but im getting back on my feet to do another build I was Paulie drift

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hey I'm not really new here had long last 7, years of back injury and recovery . and severe depression..I was pauliedrift and im trykng to access my building thread to show my friends and family what I built they never got to see it .but im getting back on my feet again ....and will be getting a another 240sx one day ..I miss my old life and im gonna get it back ...

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Welcome back! Here's some of your threads:
going-full-e85-and-working-with-rs-enth ... 86945.html
pauliedrft-s13-4-sr20det-swap-t3t4-turbo-t460542.html

And here's a search for your stuff if you need to keep looking:
search.php?st=0&sk=t&sd=d&sr=posts&auth ... 4&start=30

Waltwhit1
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Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2018 8:54 pm

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Hi I recently came across a 89 240sx coupe, 180k miles, manual and runs and drives good. In decent shape with minimal rust but needs paint and windshield. I'm looking to sell it but I'm new to the 240 game and I'm wondering what I should expect to get for it. Any info would be appreciated!

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Are you going to paint it and replace the windshield? Probably 2-3 grand as is, maybe 2500-5000 once its all fixed up, depending on the condition of the rest of the car and where you're located.

Frost124
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Joined: Thu Aug 02, 2018 5:18 pm
Car: 1989 180sx

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Just bought a 180sx about a month ago. She needs a bit of work, but is incredibly clean overall. I'm looking for someone who could point me in the direction of a good tutorial for hooking up coolant lines to a T28 ball bearing turbo on an SR20DET. I've done a bit of searching, but really haven't found anything quite right. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

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PapaSmurf2k3
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^You should probably take some pictures of your setup and make a new thread about that. I wouldn't really call that a simple question haha.
I've always just put the supply line on the top side, and return on the bottom. If its side-to side, I don't recall it making a difference which direction it flowed.

xloligril
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Joined: Wed Sep 05, 2018 11:48 am
Car: '89 240sx Hatch

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Engine has an overheating problem. '89 240sx stock KA24E. Poked around a bit and found an L shaped pipe coming from the lower intake manifold that has a rusted out hole in it. My friend said that the coolant is leaking from it. Just wanted to get some reinforcement before I dropped money for an aftermarket intake manifold. Thanks in advance!

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PapaSmurf2k3
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I'd probably look for an OE intake manifold from a junkyard or a part-out online before going with an aftermarket one (unless the aftermarket is just an OE rebuild).

xloligril
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Car: '89 240sx Hatch

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Probably gonna be posting quite a bit the more I delve into how a car engine works haha. So i'm planning on doing a MT swap, engine is the KA24E. Would I have to get a new wiring harness, and if so, all I really found were wiring harnesses for other engines ie: KA24DE, SR20DET, etc. Anyone know the compatibility of these harnesses or do I have to get one specific to the KA24E.

LifeRunner
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Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2018 6:39 am
Car: 1992 S13 200SX /w CA18DET
2014 Navara D40, bog stock

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I reckon this has been asked before, so I'll post here instead of a new thread.
First of all, hey y'all.
Went ahead about a month ago and did a massive financial mistake, I bought a 1992 S13 200SX with a CA18DET in it.
It's got most of the work done to it, forged and balanced internals, drivetrain upgrades, etc.
Now, it's said to have about 285BHP, and I got a dyno map with the car showing the stock map and the "uprated" map, it has the ancient Greddy eManage Ultimate piggyback ECU for mapping purposes, considering the build cost of the engine I don't see why you WOULDN'T go with a standalone, but hey, it could be just me. :gotme
It works alright at the moment, but I'm having a bit of a problem, it stutters and pops a bit on high boost at WOT, at around 4-5k rpm, at anything more than 1bar.
I don't have a wideband AFR (yet, it's on it's way in the mail, so is a FPR), which is also sorta weird, but whatever. The plugs that were sat in it, well they were ancient, so I replaced them with a set of NGK BKR7E's, which helped a little, it didn't stutter as bad anymore, now with the new plugs if I turn the boost down to 0.8 it works fine, but it's not nearly as fun as 1.2, which is what it's supposed to run.

Things I've checked and done to overcome the issue: New fuel filter, checked inside the tank for debris and dirt (also found out it has a (probably) really old Walbro GSS341), all good, new plugs, and connected to the eManage just to check the maps and to see if maybe it would return any helpful or interesting data, but it didn't.


What I did find interesting was that there was no fuel map though, as far as I could tell, I imported the data from the eManage and there was no obvious fuel map, or any obvious changes really.
So I'm a bit sceptical about the given power numbers, but whatever. It's quick, when it doesn't stutter.

Any advice? Anyone know the longevity of Walbro's in-tank fuel pumps? I'm thinking it might be a fuelling issue, coil packs for these aren't really common in Norway, so I'm really hoping it isn't a spark issue. :cry:

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PapaSmurf2k3
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xloligril wrote:
Thu Sep 06, 2018 8:16 pm
Probably gonna be posting quite a bit the more I delve into how a car engine works haha. So i'm planning on doing a MT swap, engine is the KA24E. Would I have to get a new wiring harness, and if so, all I really found were wiring harnesses for other engines ie: KA24DE, SR20DET, etc. Anyone know the compatibility of these harnesses or do I have to get one specific to the KA24E.
I want to say the KA24DE and SR20DET harnesses are the same... its the same trans after all.
Really you don't even NEED a harness... you just won't have reverse lights, 4th and 5th gear sensors, possibly speed sensor, etc haha.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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LifeRunner wrote:
Sun Sep 09, 2018 6:57 am
I reckon this has been asked before, so I'll post here instead of a new thread.
First of all, hey y'all.
Went ahead about a month ago and did a massive financial mistake, I bought a 1992 S13 200SX with a CA18DET in it.
It's got most of the work done to it, forged and balanced internals, drivetrain upgrades, etc.
Now, it's said to have about 285BHP, and I got a dyno map with the car showing the stock map and the "uprated" map, it has the ancient Greddy eManage Ultimate piggyback ECU for mapping purposes, considering the build cost of the engine I don't see why you WOULDN'T go with a standalone, but hey, it could be just me. :gotme
It works alright at the moment, but I'm having a bit of a problem, it stutters and pops a bit on high boost at WOT, at around 4-5k rpm, at anything more than 1bar.
I don't have a wideband AFR (yet, it's on it's way in the mail, so is a FPR), which is also sorta weird, but whatever. The plugs that were sat in it, well they were ancient, so I replaced them with a set of NGK BKR7E's, which helped a little, it didn't stutter as bad anymore, now with the new plugs if I turn the boost down to 0.8 it works fine, but it's not nearly as fun as 1.2, which is what it's supposed to run.

Things I've checked and done to overcome the issue: New fuel filter, checked inside the tank for debris and dirt (also found out it has a (probably) really old Walbro GSS341), all good, new plugs, and connected to the eManage just to check the maps and to see if maybe it would return any helpful or interesting data, but it didn't.


What I did find interesting was that there was no fuel map though, as far as I could tell, I imported the data from the eManage and there was no obvious fuel map, or any obvious changes really.
So I'm a bit sceptical about the given power numbers, but whatever. It's quick, when it doesn't stutter.

Any advice? Anyone know the longevity of Walbro's in-tank fuel pumps? I'm thinking it might be a fuelling issue, coil packs for these aren't really common in Norway, so I'm really hoping it isn't a spark issue. :cry:
There's not much you can do without measuring the air fuel ratio under boost. How did the plugs look when you removed them? Were they black, or white?
Have you had anyone follow behind you while you romp on it to see if the exhaust coming out the back is black (or any other funky color)?
Have you tried gapping the plugs down a little bit?

Slumericanmade
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Joined: Fri Jan 24, 2020 9:58 pm
Car: 93 s13 hatch

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0B41BCF0-7E28-401A-9243-921790E59DAB.jpeg
So 93 s13 just picked this up supposedly having trouble getting spark as I was in the course of my survey I found a plug I can’t find the male end for and a cut harness any help in identifying these would be greatly appreciated... been cruising the forums for years never posted but from what I’ve seen y’all are a wealth of information thanks in advance
Attachments
BD642DB3-408C-455A-B15B-030B47C07AB9.jpeg

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Welcome to NICO!
Man the one in the 2nd pic almost looks like a MAF plug, but its on the wrong side of the engine bay. I'll have to take a look around at some point to see if I can see something similar, although mine definitely is no longer stock.

The first pic isn't factory. Could be anything... where do the wires go?

Slumericanmade
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Joined: Fri Jan 24, 2020 9:58 pm
Car: 93 s13 hatch

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9E36C3E6-9B50-4042-82FB-EB1777B3E85E.jpeg
541771F5-22DD-43D2-A09F-8280BC924724.jpeg
They run into a factory connector that runs into the harness I’ve included two pictures for reference thanks for the welcome trying to get this thing going but notbhaving any luck compression is a little low but can’t get it to operating temp to get an acurrate reading

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Usually spark is just the distributor (which contains the crank-angle sensor), coil, coil/plug wires, and ECU.
The pics you just posted (along with the one in the first post) almost look like electric fan wires.

Slumericanmade
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Joined: Fri Jan 24, 2020 9:58 pm
Car: 93 s13 hatch

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Thanks man it does have aftermarket electric fans maybe the guy didn’t use the factory wires Preciate the response


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