The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
Dudko
Posts: 2
Joined: Thu Dec 22, 2016 1:24 pm

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Thanks so much for your reply !
Well, the truth is that I'm just a beginner looking for a cheap project car and I want to learn about fixing cars along the way.So there is no way I could do that by myself. Too bad since I already fell in love with that car :D It's rare in my country as well thats also why I really wanted to buy it. I would otherwise have to cross the border to get one.And the owner is asking 2000€ for it..(probably negotiable tho) Gonna have walk away from this one then...


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centralcoaster33
Posts: 2769
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 10:41 am
Car: 240SX #5-1997
Location: Central Coast, CA

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Yeah, keep looking and keep saving. Easy to walk away from that one. I bought a running 240sx, up a 1993, bone stock for only $2500. It needed a fuel injector after like 6 months. Maybe we have more around here in the USA, but being patient and smart will save you money in the long run. Getting any cheap car will have you learning how to fix it. Getting any running car will help you learn your driving skills. Look for cheap and light. Do you have a place to work on a project car? Project cars tend to sit for weeks at time and that's not usually okay on a public street. You need a garage, carport or parking spot that is yours. Anyway, be patient, save and research. You'll get what you want or something close enough to make you happy. Cheers!

Zoranah85
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat Apr 15, 2017 2:46 am

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Thank you.

Project13
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue May 09, 2017 12:42 pm
Car: 1988 Nissan S13

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Hey guys,

Im new to this forum, or any forum actually..

So I've been chipping away at getting my s13 up to standard. It was dented, spray painted, cable tied and knocking away. now though, New interior(seats, carpet, dash etc), Rb20det swap (wired up) and now getting her ready for paint.
Image

I am by no means a mechanic or anything even remotely similar but I thought I'd learn the old school way and just dive in. Most of the work on my car has been done by me and I would like to think I can clean up the last few steps too. As many people that have put an rb in an s13 will know, you struggle to close the bonnet with the standard intake manifold. This led me to going to a front facing plenum which is why I think I'm stumped at the moment.

I have had a good look around on this forum and also other sites for weeks trying to answer my own question but have come up empty handed.

My question to you is: What hose goes to this tee?

There is a tee joiner on top of the engine, between intake manifold and rocker cover. It is by the IACV & Cold Start.
Image

At the moment 1 port on this tee is plumbed to the IACV, the other is going to the cold start valve (the other side of the cold start is plumbed to the intercooler piping before the throttle), the third port is empty and I have no idea what to do with it.

Does it need to go to the intake manifold??

I feel like I should be able to figure this out so sorry in advance for any answers that seems glaringly obvious.

Hopefully somebody here will be able to shed some light.

Thanks guys.

P.S Hope my photos worked, They don't appear in the preview but then again I can never normally see pictures on this site... maybe a mac thing?
If I need to explain better let me know.

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centralcoaster33
Posts: 2769
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 10:41 am
Car: 240SX #5-1997
Location: Central Coast, CA

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Hi Project13, weclome to NICO Club! :bigthumb:

Your photo didn't get embedded. You didn't seem to add any path or link, so I couldn't fix it for you either. We do have a thread about vacuum lines for your engine and I also found a neat video of the same. Hopefully, one or both can help you.
rb20-vacuum-line-help-t538158.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQBm0HhgXMs
Finally, how to post pictures (for your future inquiries):
how-to-post-pictures-using-photobucket-t521110.html

Project13
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue May 09, 2017 12:42 pm
Car: 1988 Nissan S13

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Hey centralcoaster33 . Thanks for your prompt response. This has got me feeling optimistic :dblthumb:
I have been playing round with these photos. It seems more promising so hopefully this time round you will be able to see them.
Image

Image

Image

Image

Cheers again!

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Posts: 23998
Joined: Thu Nov 21, 2002 3:20 pm
Car: 2017 Corvette, 2018 Focus ST, 1993 240sx truck KA Turbo.
Location: Merrimack, NH

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Looks like idle air control valve to me... it's even got the adjustment screw on it.

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centralcoaster33
Posts: 2769
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 10:41 am
Car: 240SX #5-1997
Location: Central Coast, CA

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Look at minute 5:25 in that video link and I think he's pointing to that smaller hose... goes to the "vacuum galley" I think. It's hard for me to tell. You could look at the FSM. Not sure which year your engine is from... but here's a link to one of them and on page 23 of the PDF document (equates to page EN-6 in the FSM) shows a vacuum diagram. If you have a different year, you could pull it from our service manuals link near the top of the page.
http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual? ... ice_Manual

240Noob12
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun May 21, 2017 6:09 pm

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I can't find any 240sx hatches for sale online. Whats a good website to look for them? I live in Seattle by the way and I'm looking for a project car, so it doesn't need to be in super good shape. Are there just not any 240s in Washington or am I just looking in the wrong places?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Car: 2017 Corvette, 2018 Focus ST, 1993 240sx truck KA Turbo.
Location: Merrimack, NH

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I really don't recall seeing many the last few times I've been to Seattle. Probably too dirty for all the hippies up there.
I'd check our classifieds here on NICO, as well as your local craigslist and newspaper/Want Ads.

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TroubleBound
Posts: 1778
Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2007 3:45 am
Car: 1992 240SX Hatch
Location: Richmond VA

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The nuts and studs between the exhaust manifold/turbo and turbo/O2 pipe keep loosening and backing out on me. I'd like to use locknuts on them but am wondering if the nylon insert can withstand the heat or if it'll just kind of become a regular nut? (They say 250F on the regular ones and 350F on the better ones) How hot does the turbo typically get? Ultra high temp loctite is good to 650F..
From searching i know there is some sort of metal tab from the factory which keep them still but i no longer have them and am not much of a fabricator (esp. without knowing what they looked like):
topic390674.html?hilit=sr20%20turbo%20s ... t#p4292418

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TroubleBound
Posts: 1778
Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2007 3:45 am
Car: 1992 240SX Hatch
Location: Richmond VA

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So i can't find a clear answer to how hot the turbo gets but all the guesses seem to be over 1000F so i'll scrap the nylon insert and loctite questions. If i were to use an all metal locknut, do you think a prevailing torque type or a serrated flange type would be less likely to back out?

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TroubleBound
Posts: 1778
Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2007 3:45 am
Car: 1992 240SX Hatch
Location: Richmond VA

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Heh sorry for wasting any of your time or space here, i decided on these:
Image
Image

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Car: 2017 Corvette, 2018 Focus ST, 1993 240sx truck KA Turbo.
Location: Merrimack, NH

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Nice. I use the crimp-nut style. I've had a few instances where after a job, they'd loosen like 500 miles later, and other times I'll go tens of thousands of miles with no issues.

KEO SIL80
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Jun 18, 2017 1:13 am
Car: Nissan 180sx Strawberry face, sr20det worked

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Hey guys im new, i have a question nit sure if simple or not aha.
Ive got an sr20 and its had a nitto 2.2 stroker kit installed roughly 8 years ago and also had top end cams, rods ect done 6 years ago. My TD06 turbo just shat itself so im wanting to upgrade my engine. i have about 5k to spend on it. but my main worry is will the upgrades done over the years still hold the quality to perform at high standards.

things im thinking of upgrading is.
turbo-
ecu-
fuel control-
fuel pump-
injectors-
coil packs-
springs?
theres more im sure ill need but any help would be appreciated, cheers guys n gals

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Posts: 23998
Joined: Thu Nov 21, 2002 3:20 pm
Car: 2017 Corvette, 2018 Focus ST, 1993 240sx truck KA Turbo.
Location: Merrimack, NH

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Nice. Check out BorgWarner EFR turbos. You should also be able to get NISTUNE ECU and whatever fuel pump you want. I've run a Deatschwerks and Walboro with no issues. Injectors will depend on your power goals and if you want to run E85 or not, but I'd again suggest Deatschwerks.

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TroubleBound
Posts: 1778
Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2007 3:45 am
Car: 1992 240SX Hatch
Location: Richmond VA

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So i've been having issues with my MAF, i think it is the reason my idle is trash and it stalls if i don't give it gas, and why it hesitates/bogs if i accelerate over 3500 rpm. I'm using the SOHC maf on a redtop sr. I was trying to verify continuity from the ecu to the wires and weirdly the MAF signal wire is on pin 24 on my ecu rather than 16 as expected. When i didn't get continuity i just checked all the white wires. Do i need to unpin it and put it in pin 16 where it belongs? It seems i should need to but the last car/shell this engine was in ran fine on the same setup so idk what happened to it. Any chance the sensor went bad? Thanks

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Posts: 23998
Joined: Thu Nov 21, 2002 3:20 pm
Car: 2017 Corvette, 2018 Focus ST, 1993 240sx truck KA Turbo.
Location: Merrimack, NH

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That's freaky indeed. I wouldn't think the wire would just get up and switch pins on you ha.
The sensors, wiring, and connectors definitely can go bad. Is there no check engine light or anything? Do you have a piggyback ECU or anything else to help control it?

JFR-RACING
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Jul 30, 2017 11:44 am
Car: 97 240sx

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first post

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Car: 2017 Corvette, 2018 Focus ST, 1993 240sx truck KA Turbo.
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Welcome!

used2haveAgarage
Posts: 2
Joined: Fri Sep 15, 2017 8:08 pm
Car: 1992 240sx S13 (in transition from ka24de to sr20det)

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Hi there. I have tried to search the forums for an answer to my question but can't find it.

I have a '92 240sx s13 that came with ka24de but am swapping in redtop sr20det, and going auto to manual. The redtop sr20det came with a harness cut below the chassis signal connector (the brownish-red one at the end) but am wondering how to use the existing ka chassis signal connector, which still has ka wires attached. Should I...

1. solder the existing ka wires to the sr20det harness wires and if so, how do they match up? (seems there are more wires on the sr than the ka)
OR
2. remove wires from ka chassis signal connector and attach the sr wires (I think that's called re-pinning?) And if so, is that relatively simple?

Thanks!

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Joined: Thu Nov 21, 2002 3:20 pm
Car: 2017 Corvette, 2018 Focus ST, 1993 240sx truck KA Turbo.
Location: Merrimack, NH

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Honestly if you do any of that you're setting yourself up for future electrical gremlins. I'd just get a whole new harness set from WiringSpecialties.com

used2haveAgarage
Posts: 2
Joined: Fri Sep 15, 2017 8:08 pm
Car: 1992 240sx S13 (in transition from ka24de to sr20det)

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Thanks Papa Smurf. That was the original plan. Purchased it from Enjuku, who informed me WiringSpecialties wouldn't have any in stock until late October. I'm on a bit of a timeline so I am doing what I can to get this thing up and running, good enough for now.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Joined: Thu Nov 21, 2002 3:20 pm
Car: 2017 Corvette, 2018 Focus ST, 1993 240sx truck KA Turbo.
Location: Merrimack, NH

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Ugh, that sucks.
Honestly, replacing my wiring harnesses with ones from WiringSpecialties was probably the best "mod" I've ever done. So worth it to not chase electrical problems and focus on the real upgrades :)

JustJohnny
Posts: 3
Joined: Thu Sep 21, 2017 11:20 pm

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Theres a stock 180sx up for sale for $2000 with 60,000 miles on it but theres rust eating throught parts of the underbody. He's also throwing in a clean 240sx shell with the 180sx. I plan on cutting the rust out and cutting pieces from the 240sx to use as replacement for the 180sx. Is it worth it?

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centralcoaster33
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Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 10:41 am
Car: 240SX #5-1997
Location: Central Coast, CA

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Considering all the layers of metal, I'd swap shells before I'd have two cut up shells welded together. Does a 180SX have to have proper importation paperwork to be sold? I'd look into that if I didn't know. Swapping shells might change the VIN and then you'd be not worried about paperwork as much maybe? The price sounds fair if rust is the only significant issue. You have a place to spread two cars around and work on them for a while? Is it worth it? Maybe. Depends on what car you could get for near as much that doesn't entail a significant bodywork/ chassis project. I've been able to get better deals in the past on working cars with no rust, but those deals come and go depending on where you are.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Car: 2017 Corvette, 2018 Focus ST, 1993 240sx truck KA Turbo.
Location: Merrimack, NH

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I was thinking that too. It wouldn't be bad normally to just drop both front and rear subframes and put the new shell on, but then you're also dealing with LHD vs RHD stuff, so there's other changes that have to be made.
At that point, I'm not sure what would be easier. I guess it comes down to how good you are with a cutter and welder.

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TroubleBound
Posts: 1778
Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2007 3:45 am
Car: 1992 240SX Hatch
Location: Richmond VA

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So my exhaust started sounding crazy loud again and i thought those fasteners i put on a couple months ago must've slipped off. I wish. Look at this nonsense:
Image

2 questions:
1. Is this likely due to it being a cheapo ebay manifold or is it the weight of the turbo/exhaust and the vibrations/heat? (or both..) I'm ordering a megan racing one, still not top notch i know but i'm a broke student atm, and i want to make sure it doesn't happen to the next one in a couple months.
and
2. Forgive my ignorance, but can i drive this to work tomorrow? I obvs don't want to damage the turbo or engine in general but can it just suck non-exhaust air in?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Joined: Thu Nov 21, 2002 3:20 pm
Car: 2017 Corvette, 2018 Focus ST, 1993 240sx truck KA Turbo.
Location: Merrimack, NH

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Sorry to hear about it. That's a pretty big failure. To answer your questions:
1. Yes, all of the above haha. Does your exhaust have a section of flex pipe anywhere in it? Usually you want one at the bottom of the downpipe area, just after the exhaust straightens out and heads towards the back of the car. It should help cut down on the stresses.
2. You can drive it in a pinch, but I'd go easy on it. I'm not sure where your O2 sensor is in the system, but it may be picking up some normal air, and therefore running lean. You'll also want to make sure nothing flammable is in the area of that break.
Basically, if possible, I'd try to avoid driving that, but its doable if really necessary.

tannerezell077
Posts: 11
Joined: Tue Sep 26, 2017 7:11 pm
Car: Nissan 240sx super hicas

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im in the process of turbocharging my 240 and i was wondering if i can use a 2 in 1 out intercooler for a twin turbo kit on my 240 for a single turbo setup? would it be possible if i just capped off the one 3in outlet and used the two ports on the side like a regular intercooler?


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