The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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PapaSmurf2k3
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Yikes, that's no bueno. I somehow doubt you can change that seal out with the rack still in the car. If it were me, I'd pick up a new rack and pinion, and swap it out. You'll need an alignment afterwards.


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GTR240
Posts: 18
Joined: Thu Nov 19, 2015 10:36 pm
Car: 1992 1.5JZ Nissan 240sx Hatch
1993 1JZ Toyota JZX90 Chaser

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Yeah, that's what i was afraid of. Looks like that's the next project!

Shotgun Chuck
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Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2016 2:53 am
Car: 1993 Not a 240SX

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I'm here trying to figure out chassis codes. I know a little about the chassis codes of the S-chassis (S13 and S14, and according to a chart I found somewhere the codes are HS13 and RHS13FB for the pignose models, and MS13, RMS13FB, KRMS13, and KMS13 for the "kouki" models).

The problem is, according to a VIN decoder I found, "S13" and "S14" don't actually appear in the VINs of these cars. Where do these codes come from and how do they relate to the VIN? I'm trying to figure this out so I can reliably extract JDM-style chassis codes from the VINs of car that often aren't referred to by their chassis code, such as my own 1993 Pontiac Sunbird (currently I have a hodgepodge of VIN digits, 2JB1T).

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PapaSmurf2k3
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The VIN doesn't have "S13" or "S14" in them, although it is usually located on the same plaque on the firewall, etc.
I'm not sure there's anything in the VIN that says what chassis it is, but I could be wrong.
Here's a link to a VIN decoder. Let me know what you find:
http://garage.projectraine.com/content_ ... mid01.html

Not2YY
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Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2016 8:37 am

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Hey everybody! I'm pretty new to this forum but I'm a long time lover of the 240sx. So my question is would getting a 240sx, making it a daily driver and a weekend drift car possible for someone who is in college and not so mechanically inclined? I know 240's love getting worked on so I just wanted some input from people who have put in the work.
Thanks again

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centralcoaster33
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Car: 240SX #5-1997
Location: Central Coast, CA

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DO IT! Like any car, you want to find a good one, not a craigslist "mechanics special". For a rear wheel drive four banger, the 240 is the affordable way to go. I think they are a great learning car for the shade tree mechanic. They seem very reliable for daily driving, but you start screwing with stuff, cutting corners to save money, skipping maintenance, or driving like it's hot and stuff tends to break... don’t all cars? They are getting to be Old cars by years spent on the roads, so maintenance is getting more in depth. Nothing crazy, just rubber is dying, plastic getting brittle and rust growing faster than say a more modern vehicle.

Drifting is very abusive to a car. Stuff will get broken. You'll be addicted to used tires and wanting extra drift rims. You'll want to go to Drift Days and buy track time. You might go to the back roads and parking lots and get expensive tickets for reckless driving or be buying new control arms because of that curb you hit. Do Not Endanger Others! You'll decide you need a differential, suspension, and POWER. That can be expensive... and totally worth it! If you're gonna do it, do it while you're young and have large cojones.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Yeah I wouldn't recommend drifting your daily driver on a regular basis.
I've been to quite a few drift events. Its pretty rare to see a car get through the whole thing without having any issues.

Not2YY
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@papasmurf2k3 and @centralcoaster33

First off I wanted to thank you guys for the input! Yeah I totally understand I'm not going to try and jump into cars that seem like they are about to die on their own. I'm planning on waiting a while anyway since I have to build up some money so I'm in no rush. I also understand that with any type of work on a car the cheap way usually ends up costing more than what it would've cost if I went at it legitimately. I have no intention of trying to drift on a regular basis so hopefully I don't mess it up with the few times of going. Alright well now i feel a little more comfortable with the decision of getting a 240 thank you

Lompang
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Car: S14 1995

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Need some help here. Car randomly doesn't start after driving it fine for an hour. Came to turn it off and tried to turn on doesn't start. Engine does not crank nor start. There is no click at the starter solenoid, but clicks under driver-side dash. Replaced with new starter, new battery, and ignition switch still does not start. All accessories work and lights turn on fine. I then bypassed the clutch interlock system and still does the same thing. I found my ENG CONT fuse was blown before and replaced it still did nothing. I am getting fuel as I can hear the pump prime and my adjustable FPR shows pressure as well. Could there be a problem with the ECCS Relay or ECU being blown from the ENG CONT fuse being blown? Can not get the car to start or make it even attempt to crank anymore. I noticed that one ground on the engine's exhaust side had a plug to the ground that was unplugged, but I cannot fine any plug to plug that ground in that's on the engine block anyone knows where that goes? It's been unplugged for a while even when my car ran fine so I am sure its not the grounds or that specific one. Any ideas?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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So it still starts up fine when its cold?

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gingerbredman
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Car: 93 SE hatch, ~260k miles on the clock, 15" Enkei 92s, still stock. 2009 Sonata bouncing on Eibachs.

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With my ka24de, 93 engine, it has a ground going from the cylinder head to the firewall. The ground is at towards the back of the head, exhaust side above the manifold, and goes back to the upper part of the firewall. For some reason, I had a lot of trouble trying to get it to run without this specific ground hooked up. I can't recall if it would crank or not without it, but it was important one way or another. I've been doing a lot restoration type work involving the wiring and connectors lately and found corrosion and/or poor contact points here and there causing weird intermittent problems. If you haven't already then find the source of the clicking and inspect it, check continuity going to and from that relay to make sure any wiring didn't get fried, other than that try the FSMs.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Yup, that ground is pretty essential. Mine was corroded or broken and was causing all sorts of bucking problems on me. It still started though.

Chris13x908
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Car: 90' 240sx

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I just ordered a set of Bilstein B6 HDs and some Eibach Sportslines to go with knowing that Bilstein recommends only a 30mm drop and the Sportslines drop it around 52mm. Bilstein stated that there is a chance that the spring may be too short, and may slip out while driving. Keep in mind that I run canyons occasionally and try to slide a little when it rains, which is sort of rare in California. What do you guys recommend I should do? Do you think it's safe to run, or should I send them in to shorten the Pistons?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Well, if you go to assemble them together and you can do it without a spring compressor, then you might have a problem. If you still need a spring compressor (or the assembly itself compresses the spring) then you'll be ok.

Chris13x908
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Car: 90' 240sx

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Thanks Papasmurf, ill go ahead and try that! One more question for ya, Im planning to go with this guidline with my KA24DE, but I was just wondering if anyone has confirmed the 200chp? Just sounds too good to be true, considering that people in the past have spent thousands of dollars to get 200 out of their DE. Thanks in advance!

http://www.s-chassis.com/forums/na-moto ... 000-30440/

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Seems a little excessive for weak numbers on non-pump gas. I wouldn't mess with the pulleys either.

If you really want to make real world usable power, you'll have to either turbo the KA, or add compression and cams (along with intake, exhaust, and tune).

archmage
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Car: 2004 Dodge Stratus R/T 3.0l
1991 Ford Range LXT
Hopefully a Nissan 240SX soon

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First off not 100% sure if this should be here or in it's own topic. Let me know and I'll correct it!

So I've been thinking about purchasing a Nissan 240SX, to mod for performance and possibly take out to drifting events in my local area.

One of the main questions I have is, which year of the 240SX should I look at? Is there a preferred year for drifting with the Nissan?

TheRoadShark
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Car: '93 S13 Coupe
RB25DET S2 @ 10psi
Silvia conversion

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S13's (89-93) are easier and cheaper to find / replace. S14's (95-98) are more rare and expensive, but have better suspension geometry in the back. Swap S14 rear subframe and suspension into S13. They sell aluminium subframe conversion bushings for exactly that.

archmage
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1991 Ford Range LXT
Hopefully a Nissan 240SX soon

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TheRoadShark wrote:S13's (89-93) are easier and cheaper to find / replace. S14's (95-98) are more rare and expensive, but have better suspension geometry in the back. Swap S14 rear subframe and suspension into S13. They sell aluminium subframe conversion bushings for exactly that.

Awesome thanks for the advice! Yeah I was leaning to the S13's as well, I'll probably get a 92, one on craigslist I might take a look at.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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The wiring harnesses weren't great from the factory. Be sure to wiggle the harness around the TPS and MAF sensors. If it stumbles or idles up, plan on picking up a wiring harness from wiringspecialties.com

240buddha
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Car: 91 s13 240sx hatch

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5 lug conversion how easy is it?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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If you buy the hubs that are specifically made to swap to 5 lug, it isn't that bad. Like, remove the wheel and brakes, then unbolt the hub and bolt the new one on.
If you just want to use OE stuff, then you have to change out a ton of stuff for the front (entire knuckle, ball joints, etc). NA Z32 rears bolt right up IIRC.

zs_s13
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX SE Hatchback

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Can someone tell me what this button (I guess is what you call it) is for? I'm clearing out the interior to start sanding all the surface rust out and don't wanna keep this around if it isn't important. It's tied in with the ignition it looks like, but doesn't look OEM.

Image

Image

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Maybe a killswitch, or maybe the previous owner was so used to his old chevy's foot-button activated high beams, that he just had to have one in his new car.

TheJDM180SX
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Hey, I have a 1991 180sx, I do not have a 180km/h speed limiter, does this mean my ecu has a piggy back/ I have a standalone? Id like to know because the wires to my maf are also really strange so I'm thinking maybe it was tuned for a z32 maf at one point too. Thanks!

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PapaSmurf2k3
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It could also mean the ECU is from an automatic.
You could always remove the kick panel and take a look at the ECU. Typically if they've been modified, there's a sticker or some writing on them.

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allenms240
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Car: 1991 Nissan 240SX

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Anyone with experience wiring up 180sx turn signals?

I just got the signals today, but they didn't come with the sockets. I found sockets and wiring for the position lamps, and the sockets look similar. Can anyone clarify this for me? Seem's that everyone who bought their lights received the sockets as well. Do the sockets plug into the 240sx turn signal wiring, or are other pigtails required for them to work?
Thanks in advance.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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That's a little strange that they didn't come with the sockets. You might want to make your own thread about that issue (and probably include some pictures).

Dudko
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About to buy a 1990 200SX (europe) with CA18DET.Owner said it doesn't run because one of the connecting rod bearings is broken. Is it a good idea to buy it ? I'm afraid it's gonna have more problems after it gets replaced..

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centralcoaster33
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Dudko wrote:About to buy a 1990 200SX (europe) with CA18DET.Owner said it doesn't run because one of the connecting rod bearings is broken. Is it a good idea to buy it ? I'm afraid it's gonna have more problems after it gets replaced..
You can tear down and rebuild that engine, possibly, or you can replace the motor with another. It could be a great deal if you are a mechanic with access to tools or a shop or a replacement engine, and it's your second car and it's for fun project stuff and it's really cheap, like $1000 or less. For anything else, like a reliable car used for work and school, as your primary transportation, no that is not a good deal, you need a running car and should keep shopping. Just my opinion. Best of luck!


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