I think q45 brake swap is also fairly common.

PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:I think q45 brake swap is also fairly common.

I was thinking of that one, just brain to hand communication failed.

Here's a pic of the pad and rear caliper (smaller version of the fronts)


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What's up everybody. I'm not necessarily new to 240s but did just pick up a sr Swapped fastback s13. I got a really good deal on it and just couldn't pass on it. She's a work in progress but runs like a bat outta he'll. Guessing around 300hp.

My questions are how reliable are the sr's? There's a chatter coming from the rear end when I go from a stop it has lsd not exactly positive what it is. Just wondering if that's normal. I'll have to look more into the car as I just got it yesterday. I'll have plenty more ?'s

Thanks
Blkbird

The SRs are just as reliable as the KA, but just like anything it depends on setup and maintenance. Don't hang around 9,000 rpm either. The heads do not like that.
The rear diff chatter sounds odd. If it's a badass kaaz unit, it'll definitely have some noise. If it's factory, you shouldn't hear much. Look at the subframe mounts and bushings and make sure they are still there.

So the other day leavening the parts store I got on it from 1st to 2nd and after that the car started to idle rough and has a popping sound coming from the exhaust. It's not loud just a pop. Only starts doing it a few mins after being started.

WollyAjnin wrote:Here's a pic of the pad and rear caliper (smaller version of the fronts)

Here's a nifty thread talking about the different kind of brakes:
q45-j30-front-brake-upgrades-for-240sx- ... 66778.html




The location of that Nissan emblem leads me to believe those are S14 calipers though.

theblkbird wrote:So the other day leavening the parts store I got on it from 1st to 2nd and after that the car started to idle rough and has a popping sound coming from the exhaust. It's not loud just a pop. Only starts doing it a few mins after being started.

I'd check your timing and possibly coolant temp sensor.
Are there no check engine lights?

Hi as you might remember I was having Auto trans issues but I got that sorted now I am converting it Manual, and I have a clutch I need to know if it's good? Looks good enough to me but I can't be too sure as I've never dealt with a clutch before. Or should I buy a stage 1-3 clutch?

Have to love buying tuners. Still figuring all that's been done/needs done to my car. Have these open connections I'm trying to figure out what they are.

First one, by fan and tps, under manifold


Second, by iacv, I think it's for the egr (deleted), with the red wire.


Third, random wire underneath steering column


And lastly this switch under the steering column

Midnightblue wrote:Hi as you might remember I was having Auto trans issues but I got that sorted now I am converting it Manual, and I have a clutch I need to know if it's good? Looks good enough to me but I can't be too sure as I've never dealt with a clutch before. Or should I buy a stage 1-3 clutch?

I've definitely seen better, but I've also definitely seen worse. How does the flywheel look?
I usually pony up for a new clutch unless I'm absolutely certain the other one is good.

WollyAjnin wrote:Have to love buying tuners. Still figuring all that's been done/needs done to my car. Have these open connections I'm trying to figure out what they are.

What engine?
The first one LOOKS like a knock sensor connector to me.

The flywheel doesn't have missing or damaged teeth, and it was resurfaced. Just a little surface rust, nothing horrible.
If I do buy a new clutch what stage would you recommend? Engine is stock except for a catback and air intake. But, I do plan on modifying later on, maybe even adding a turbo but not any time soon. So the question is would a stage 1-3 clutch last me until I do modify the engine or would I be better of buying oem exedy then upgrading when I do build the engine?

Well this is the flywheel. You can see the marks from when it was resurfaced although it did accumulate a little surface rust from sitting. (can probably be cleaned off)

PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:

WollyAjnin wrote:Have to love buying tuners. Still figuring all that's been done/needs done to my car. Have these open connections I'm trying to figure out what they are.

What engine?
The first one LOOKS like a knock sensor connector to me.

Oh yeah my bad. It's a '95 s14 with ka24de. I can get more pics if necessary. Finding more and more out about this car that wasn't told to me lol. Turns out i have a B&M precision shifter (score). The calipers were just the stock ones and i got the pads all changed no problem, thanks for the help.

Midnightblue wrote:Well this is the flywheel. You can see the marks from when it was resurfaced although it did accumulate a little surface rust from sitting. (can probably be cleaned off)

That flywheel looks fine. If you know you'll be turboing later, or really don't have a problem with pulling your trans again, you can just run what you have until you decide what your power goals are.

WollyAjnin wrote: Oh yeah my bad. It's a '95 s14 with ka24de. I can get more pics if necessary. Finding more and more out about this car that wasn't told to me lol. Turns out i have a B&M precision shifter (score). The calipers were just the stock ones and i got the pads all changed no problem, thanks for the help.

Not sure what the 2nd one is... definitely could be EGR. Have you checked the FSM? www.nicoclub.com/fsm
3rd and 4th - Maybe the car was originally an automatic and it was switched to manual, and those are some random wires/buttons? I'm not too sure. Have you tried pressing the button both while car is stopped and while running to see what happens?

Thanks Papa Smurf, I actually just had to have my car pulled home because I snapped the torque converter. (not enough oil). I don't mind taking off the transmission once I built but I will run what I have for now.

Not enough oil shouldn't "snap" a torque converter, it just starves the pump. Was it neutraling out? Basically revving way up and you weren't going anywhere, and then slamming into gear?

I took it out and it turns out the bolts that bolt the torque converter to the flywheel snapped. when it was "working" the flywheel would make a grinding noise when I started the car and when I was right at 4k rpm then when I was driving after changing the coolant as it shifted to third the bolts snapped. I simply thought the grinding noise was just the flywheel hitting the dust cover plate No biggie I thought) and it was that but also the flywheel was bent. The transmission is fine but can't say the same for the flywheel But am just waiting on my clutch line now from enjuku to put the 5-speed in. Here is some pictures
Yup I did all myself and plan on doing the swap myself too but I am going to read every detail I am not sure about. Or ask.

Here is the flywheel, I might have put the dust plate backwards too

Well luckily the automatic pilot bearing came out attach to the torque converter.

Well the questions I have about the 5-speed swap are. Do I use Treadlocker on the flywheel bolts? and you know how the auto flywheel has this little plate like bushing, do I use that on the manual flywheel too? and the cooling line on the manual transmission goes on the same place to the radiator as the automatic right, it's just the auto has two lines going to the radiator and the manual only has one, do I plug/close one line on the radiator and connect the other to the transmission? Oh and should I use any type of lubricant on the transmission input shaft?

Glad you found the problem! That flywheel is definitely toast.
Yes, use threadlocker on the flywheelbolts. I'm pretty sure the manual doesn't use the flywheel spacer... its all just 1 piece.
There is NO coolant lines on the manual trans whatsoever. There is only a vent line that simply bolts to one of the bellhousing bolts to keep it up and tucked.
Grease the input shaft of the trans where the throwout bearing goes, but you probably do NOT want to put any on the splined part... you could transfer grease to the clutch disk as you're inserting the shaft into the clutch.

Oh I see, well once again I really appreciate it. I actually have one more question. out of the two dust plates on the automatic setup, can i reuse either one? Or do I need manual dust plates, that'd be the only thing I'm missing now and I don't put it together if I don't have those plates cause I know bad things can happen if I leave that area exposed. Thank you again.

I want to say you should use a manual dust plate. The auto one is only partial, so you can access the torque converter bolts from the access panel area.

Thank you so far for all your help Papa Smurf. I actually ordered the dust plate, and I got a new oem clutch and I have a problem with it and I'm done beating around the bush to figure out what's up, maybe you know the answer. So With the new clutch kit came a throw-out bearing but the design from the old one is completely different. My question is, can I use this new bearing? as you might see the new one is a bit smaller but looks like it can go in the shaft and the whole thing spins (except the middle past) unlike old one where only the middle part spins.

Is the new one on the left and the old one on the right?
I'm not sure what the heck the one on the left is, but the one on the right looks like all the throwout bearings I've ever seen.

lol The one on the left is the new one that came with the clutch kit, and I know it looks stupid. I am just going to use the old bearing.

I'd probably go ahead and replace the old with with a new one that isn't the one on the left ha. Advance/Autozone ought to have one for you.

Back again!

So one thing I want to do soon as possible is get ride of this ebay turbo that sounds like f1 plane. If I upgrade from the ebay to a t25/t28 would I need to get a new tune on the car? By new tune I mean really necessary. Im only running around 6psi off my waste gate so not running too much boost. I might bring it up to 10 sometimes during the summer.I have a flash tune and safc ll so I could do a bit of tweaking with the safc or just wait to send the ecu for a refalsh.

Another thing is the turbo manifold on my ka has a tube for a wastegate but im looking to get a turbo from twisted motion since they look fairly respectable and affordable till I go and do my engine rebuild, buy a garret gt35, and get a megasquirt.The turbos im looking at have a built in wastegate? What do I do with the wastegate opening in my manifold? Just cover it up with a plate or should I take off the built in waste gate and use the one already on the manifold?

Here how the turbo spools, I think it sounds so obnoxious. Im running open downpipe atm but in a couple weeks im going in for a full custom exhaust by a good local shop
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ym7x9_4pWk

Sounds funny to say the least... almost like the compressor or turbine is hitting their respective housing.

Anyway, that will all quiet down once you put an intake tube/filter on there, and proper exhaust.
You'll probably need to do SOME tweaking with the t25/28 change, but it shouldn't be too major. Tough to say really because all cars are different, and I have no idea what kind of turbo is on there now.
For the wastegate thing - you could leave it on there and continue to use it in conjunction with the internal gate on the other turbo. Added protection against boost spikes!