Swapping into a Daily Driver

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
xyoufailmex
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Well, this is the engine I want. Im going to try to find a CA18DET now that I have the money. ive saved about 1500, which should be enough for the engine + small parts. I might accumulate another hundred or 2 between now and then. This is my daily driver, so two questions... not really deserving of a simple answer, but Im wanting some more opinions than what have been gave so far.

1) How long does the swap itself, including KA-removal, generally take? Can it be done in a day? A weekend?

2) How reliable is a swapped car? This is going to be my daily driver, and I dont want to be driving around a ghetto-rigged car, or have a car i have to order every part for. To make sure I understand, thermostats and belts and everything are the same as CA18DEs, right? Water pumps?


boost_boy
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Car: B12 sentra w/built CA18DET, B12 sentra w/fully-built CA18DET, S13 coupe w/ CA18DET, S13 hatch w/CA18DET, 2002 maxima SE
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xyoufailmex wrote:Well, this is the engine I want. Im going to try to find a CA18DET now that I have the money. ive saved about 1500, which should be enough for the engine + small parts. I might accumulate another hundred or 2 between now and then. This is my daily driver, so two questions... not really deserving of a simple answer, but Im wanting some more opinions than what have been gave so far.

1) How long does the swap itself, including KA-removal, generally take? Can it be done in a day? A weekend?

2) How reliable is a swapped car? This is going to be my daily driver, and I dont want to be driving around a ghetto-rigged car, or have a car i have to order every part for. To make sure I understand, thermostats and belts and everything are the same as CA18DEs, right? Water pumps?
The swap itself can take as short as 16 hours someone mechanically inclined to install and wire this motor and about 30 hours everything ready to roll out and not be so worried. Now worst case scenario, you're not mechanically inclined, expect delays. If you really know what you are doing and you are working with a competent individual, then just maybe you might be able to pull this off in a day; granted all the components you need are there. Expect to pay around $1200-$1800 for a motorset. Expect to pay around (Tops) $250 for shipping. Hope this info helps

Dee

Dee

dbody1
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Joined: Thu Mar 18, 2004 7:13 am
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I bought my Ca18det from Boostboy and I must tell you it was a great investment! I will say this you'll need more money than you think for the swap cause there's always something else to buy. I drive mine to work everyday and it's very drivable. As for Boostboy he's very honest and helpful. A good man to know.

Bruce

xyoufailmex
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Car: 1990 240 FB

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Ok, this helps some... Im trying to calculate everything, and if prices reach 3k, I think i might just go by a 94 Z28 :-(

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float_6969
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IMHO, you're going to be close. 3K is the number that I tell people to shoot for when they are saving up for a swap.

sdtouge
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Car: 1990 240sx coupe

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when you plan everything out on paper, you think the swap is going to be cheap, it tunrs outto be a decent amount more in the end,

so far (its moday and i have driven almost 600 miles since sunday) my car with the ca is reliable, its hasnt gotten over 185 f and that was at a drift day after being on the skid pad for about a minute going sideways the hole time so not that much airs going into the radiator, overall id say if you do a decent job itll be reliable.

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c-rad
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Also to note, if you do the suggested maintenance when you get the motor, it will be reliable. Some luck out and get a motor in tip-top shape, but others need things like a timing belt, water pump, oil pump, bearings, headgasket, valve cover gaskets, etc. Don't forget your fluids like oil, transmission fluid, coolant... Then spark plugs. Its AMAZING how the little stuff adds up to a lot.

NeedCAforS13
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Car: CA swapped S13 coupe
Location: Spartanburg SC
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Mine has been in the car for over a year without issues. I've put over 15k miles on it. Daily driven and used for road trips. Around town its every bit as docile and driveable as the KA was (until you floor it of course )

The CA (and SR) were both *factory* installed motors in japan, there's no reason they won't work reliably as daily drivers.

In my opinion a good rule of thumb is add another 50% above what you think it will cost on paper. For almost any project you undertake... That way you're left with what you want and an extra chunk of money at the end, instead of a sketchy car because you were $500 short.

Sean

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rico05
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I did my entire swap for $1600 and took me and a budd who had done like 6 SRs about 18-20 hours. And that is with bull****ting, visits from inquisitive folks, and beers. I paid $1285 for the motorset shipped, so they can be found for cheap. And like Sean, I have been driving mine for about a week shy of a year and I have put her through hell (popping EVERY coolant line, overheating, overrevving, etc) and she is still kicking a$$. And FYI, according to my buddy who helped with the swap, the CA is an easier swap to do.

xyoufailmex
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Car: 1990 240 FB

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Well, these responses help me a lot. Maybe this swap is doable in a weekend. Just trying to decide if I really want a CA or not now I guess. Its hard to convince yourself to pay 2000 dollars for 30 more horsepower, heh

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240 Trainee
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As one of the guys with the horror stories, here's a couple pieces of advice -

1) I agree, as long as you are mechanically inclined, a weekend is possible. BUT2) depend on no one. make sure you have every part in your garage before you start. part of what made my swap be so God- awful and long was missing parts and bad communication. I waited over a month for SMIC piping for example after my FMIC was stolen3) have at least $500 that you have no plans for at all for the engine, but can drop for random stuff at a moments notice. at least $500.

and it's not just$2000 for 30 hp, the car becomes something you never thought it could ever be, lol.

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rico05
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When you have the motor sitting in the gargae, think of every little thing you will do when driving the motor in the car.

You will see what parts you still need. Stuff like clutch lines and parts, turbo inlet duct, intercooler parts, all need to be accounted for. My motor sat in my garage for about 3 months before I did the swap, so I took the time and had EVERY part but plugs and fluids (swap was necessary and sudden).

And that "30hp" quickly jumps to "80hp" with bolt ons

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Nunook
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with my ca at stock boost, compared to my SOHC. It was 30lbs, and about 40hp. Not only that, the power last longer, and is much more fun.Just today I stoped at a red light. Some integra speed up and cut in front of someone to get next to me. The road was wet so we cruised in first. we hit second, and despite my rear-end goin side to side in the lane(I love LSDs), I was still keeping up with him. Thats FUN!!! he looked at me, slowed down and changed lanes.Reliability-> I was doin about 500miles a week on my ca for a good 6mths. not to mention 2 trips 250miles each way(to enter drifting practices), and 2 trips to see my dad about 150 miles each way. Definately worth every penny I spent.

slownslurious
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it took me 4 full days to swap, including everything (piping, wiring, etc). I worked on it during the day and had friends help at night.I did not upgrade or replace any parts except the spark plugs, because they were horribly fouled. My total cost for the engine, spark plugs, wiring, downpipe, turbo outlet, etc, was somewhere around $1300-$1400. I'd defintely say that if time is an issue you should have a couple hundred bucks ready to spend at the parts store for when things go wrong during the install. Having pulled various motors in and out of s13's for the past few years, I think that with mechanically inclined help, the swap could be done in a weekend. This would be pushing it to the bare edge, however, and I have found that work done while you are tired or hurt is not quality work and you'll probably **** something up, and since you haven't left yourself enough time to test everything out and make repairs where necessary its more likely that something will break and leave you stranded... just my two cents.btw I drive mine everyday, aside from having problems keeping coilpacks on the motor I have no problem driving it every day or taking it for long trips.

also I should point out that I bought a motorset with EVERYTHING down to the turbo inlet, air filter, intercooler, piping, resistor boxes, etc... and I would say that if your motorset or clip was missing these parts it could easily double the cost of the swap and triple the time. ca18 parts can be hard to find and expensive to obtain, and slow in shipping... etc... and though some parts are interchangeable with usdm cars, finding those cars in salvage yards is not easy, and even finding replacement parts for obscure cars like pulsars can take a lot of time and money. Its a LOT better to buy one with everything you need. I know everyone says that, but look at what the people above you are saying... it took them a lot longer, was more expensive and more difficult because they didn't have what they needed.
Modified by slownslurious at 7:30 PM 6/2/2005

njandrewg
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Joined: Mon May 16, 2005 10:23 am

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http://www.club240.com/forums/...20192

the vendor there sells CA18DETs for $900(intercooler not included)

but apparently the stock intercooler is not that good if you raise the boost so might as well get an upgraded one.

since I don't want to make my own thread, I'll piggy back on his :P

that motor swap comes wtih the following:- Block and Head- Intake Manifold- Exhaust Manifold- Sensors- Fuel Rail- Injectors- Cam-Angle Sensor- Throttle Body- Turbo- Alternator- Starter- Ignitor Chip- A/C Compressor- Power Steering Pump- Air Flow Sensor- ECU (Computer)- 5-Speed RWD Hydraulic Transmission- Engine Wiring Harness (Uncut)

besides inter cooler whats missing?

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rico05
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-Dropping Resistor-turbo inlet duct (MAF to compressor)-Slave cylinder line-I don't see coils on that list-You might look into a new clutch-You have a DOHC gauge cluster?

njandrewg
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yeah, but since its a STD it only goes up to like 110 :P

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rico05
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No biggie. Folks just sometimes forget that swapping a DOHC motor into a nonDOHC car renders the gauge cluster inoperative.

njandrewg
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the CA transmission comes with a LSD correct?

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rico05
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Hunh? No. The differential is a completly different peice than the transmission. I know that some places will offer a VLSD with a motorset, and all CAs that were sold in JDM were VLSD equipped, but as far as it comming with the engine, that is up to the importer.

FYI If you can find somewhere that stocks CA/RB20 R200 diffs, snatch one up (then tell me where you got it) The standard KA and SR (as well as N/A Z32 R200) usues a 4.11 final drive. The CA/RB20 utilizes a 4.36 final drive. The "quicket" of the R200 based diffs.

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240 Trainee
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Hmmmm, $900 thats an awsome deal, especially if your going to tear the whole thing down anyway. hmmmm. Damnit. and BTW, the CA18 is like a narcotic; you get addicted for life. lol.

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rico05
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Too true! I am thinking how much blood it will take to fund this CA20 stroker idea I can't get out of my head


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