Suspension Lift Questions

[numbernobody]

So... It's been a while. Too wet outside to work on the truck but I'm getting started again here soon. Doing a transmission rebuild and would like to get some lift. I can't afford the 700 dollar full kit on 4x4 parts .com but they have a cheaper kit that just comes with the control arms and an add a leaf. (no shocks or torsion bars) Do I have to change the shocks out to use that kit? My torsion bars should be fine, they aren't under much tension now. The a arms are basically flat in line with the axle. I'm more worried about the shocks. Thanks for the help, as usual. Also, what if I just bought some blocks for the rear (or stuck with the add a leaf) and threw some ball joint spacers on the front. Would that work? Keeping in mind that I'm only trying to shove some 31s under there.

https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/720-pic ... -p-55.html

Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks

[kickinindian]

im in the exact same boat anyone please?

[synack7350]

metalfab lifted his, and recently did a bunch of suspension mods, i'd prolly ask him.

[MetalFab]

The Add leaf didn't do all that much for me out back but my truck wasn't stock to start with. I hear stock 720 4x4's are higher out back than in the front. You really can get all 3 inches out front by cranking the torsions. The main reason I went with the whole kit was because my torsions were shot and I wanted a much stiffer ride (Got more than I asked for with the sway away torsions, truck drives like a rock now.) The main thing would be to see if your current shocks will extend a few inches more and have enough room left to allow for full suspension drop. Also there's no way the stock steering stabilizer is up to the task of dampening 31's, but that can be addressed later if/when you grow tired of bumps and potholes. Also be aware that running 31's will wear out your other components faster (balljoints, tie rods, idler arm, etc.)

Can't wait to see other 720 4x4's out there, I havn't seen many here in northern cali and mine is now the tallest ^_^ Finally able to keep up with the 'yota crowd.

[numbernobody]

Thanks for answering metalfab. I have a couple of questions
1)Are you saying I can crank the bars a little and fit 31s under there? For a while at least? I would hate to spend extra money I don't have. It almost seems as though the truck has somewhat of a body lift as it is (not sure if it's a stock thing but the frame is clearly hanging down from under the body, you can see clear through the other side) I realize the steering stabilizer couldn't take it.
2)I wonder if it would be cheaper to replace ball joints, tie rods, and idler arms and crank an inch and a half on my torsion bars allowing me to put 31s on or to buy new A arms and things like that.
I want a cheap way to do it cheap without completely throwing caution to wind. Any thoughts?

[MetalFab]

You'll soon realize you have to crank a lot on those darned tensioners, best way to do it is to jack the vehicle up and set jackstands under the crossmember that the lower control arms tie to--way easier when you aren't trying to fight the weight of the truck. If you have a body lift, you may not have to crank the torsions out enough to do damage to your upper balljoints, yet any suspension deviation from stock can increase wear on components. Saying that, I don't see that an inch and a half would adversely effect much. In any case you'd be right in the middle, as far as you can go without benefiting more from either stock or the aftermarket arms.

I would replace the upper balljoints first thing (as they seem to bind quicker, and are cake to replace) then crank it 1-1/2 and see if thats enough for your needs. Every time you adjust your torsions you will want to settle them out by either driving the truck a short way or by jumping up and down on the hood (kidding, I can't even push on my brushguard and get my suspension to flex and I'm 6'7 280lbs, damn you sway away!) Then you can measure for heights and also see if you've affected your camber/toe enough to cause major tire wear.

Either way that you go, you can't go wrong by replacing your balljoints and tie rods. Cheap security for these rigs. Oh, and post pics if you can of the gap between the body and chassis, I'm gonna go look at mine and see if there is any gap (really doubt there is) a body lift has been next on my list, yet I'd have to modify my lumberrack/raise my flatbed if I do.

Keep us posted!

[numbernobody]

I will keep you posted with picks. Thanks a lot for all the helpful input.

Anyone out there ever install a body lift? I might go that way instead. I've heard of problems with the shifter being too short and bumping the sides afterward. Any thoughts?
Girlfriends got the camera so I'll show you the gap later.
Thanks

[MetalFab]

Room between my body and frame is next to nothing, a finger or two in some places.

Any problems with a body lift would be extending the steering shaft, extending/unmounting and bending brake and clutch lines, extending any wires if they don't have enough slack. The manual shifter could have issues contacting the sheetmetal, and the 4x4 shifter would have to be cut and lengthened. A bit more time consuming than a suspension lift even before you get into unbolting all the mounting points and raising the cab. Still sounds like a ton of fun.

[numbernobody]

Hey. Don't have the camera back yet to take a shot of the body/frame gap BUT i have a question. While searching the 720 forums online, you guys ever hear mention of adding springs say from the junk yard to get a little height in the back? I think i read somewhere that 2wd springs would work too? Maybe If i just bought a longer bolt for the center it could work? Any thoughts? Thanks as usual.

Doing a complete steering system overhaul pretty soon, I'll be sure to bring photos.

Thanks again
Major motion! From Nissan!

[MetalFab]

Definitely a great way to gain lift (and quite a lot at that) I stacked springs on my ford, which improved height, handling, and weight capacity big time. Supposedly s10 springs have huge arch as they are setup for spring-under, and even the 620's in my yard have more arch than my (still, even with an add-a-leaf) flat rear springs. I'd have tackled them again already but for the problem trying to find the spring center bolt at ANY of the local parts stores. Try it! lol, I got the same dumb look at every one. Suppose I am the idiot however for realizing now I should have gone to any one of the aftermarket or spring shops in town. Anyway.

The only difference between the spring center bolt and a regular bolt from a hardware store is the head of the bolt is round like an allen bolt and the hole in the spring pad on the axle lines right up with it. If all else failed I was just going to grind down the head of a grade 8 bolt to fit.

Here we go https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/center- ... -5632.html

Definitely plan to buy new spring to axle ubolts, shackle bolts, w/e they are called, as they are 25 years old and will most likely break on you, and if they don't, it's still a cheap precaution to losing your rear axle somewhere down the highway doing 60mph. I've seen it, it isn't pretty =(

I'll post again when I pull the parts together for this. I've seen guys drill holes into the leaf ends and install zerk fittings--messy, yet effective. Need to find a source to get teflon inserts. This weekend, or the weekend of the 18th for sure I'll post up the whole project. (poly bushings, extra leaves, 2inch shackle lift, and overloads.)

[numbernobody]

Sounds great and as always thanks again for all the input.

[h2theizzo]

Whoever said that about the shifter is wrong. I had a 3" body lift on my 85 KC, and it was just fine. Tho blasting thru a mud puddle, would get on the exhaust and steam would enter the cab thru the transfer case shifter.

I have a buddy who has the ball joint spacers, they are nice and worth the money. I wouldn't go and blow your money there at 4x4 parts tho, maybe get a few parts there (upper a-arms, ball joint spacers), and the rest else where. The add a leaf is kind of generic. New u-bolts, some lift blocks, long shackles for the rear. Spacers/a-arms for the front with some rancho (or your brand shocks). Best bet is get a jeep front end and do a SAS, then re-gear the back. A lot of work, but more worth it. IFS is inferior to sas. (dont think im hating, i haven't done this to any of my 720 4x4s and love them the way they are, its just the truth )

[MetalFab]

I'd probably love my setup just the way it is with the lift kit and stacked springs out back... if my frame wasn't bent. I have another two weeks until finals is over and then I'll be goin crazy on my SAS budget build v8 granny 4speed twin t-cases. I can't wait to start breaking stuff.

I agree that there has to be some other way to get your desired lift other than spending 800 bux for a prepackaged setup. I have over 1200 into my front end and it's still jacked. There's barely any adjustment to these rigs so when something goes bad it's over. However, I do like the 4x4 setup minus the auto hubs. I've pulled logs with this truck, pulled 3 30-40' trees tied together... They're keepers and I'm glad to see more people joining the 720 crowd.

ramble over =P

[h2theizzo]

Ha. I had an 80 720 2wd, an 80 4x4, an 85 4x4 and currently an 86 4x4.