SuperDorifto's Overbuilt Kouki KA-T Build

Your premier source for information on the Turbo KA: KA24E-T and KA24DE-T (KA with aftermarket turbo kit)!
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SX APPEAL
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95 Maxima SE 5MT
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I thought about using that block port for the water feed to my turbo, let me know how it works for you.


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superDorifto
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Car: 1997 Eclipse Spyder - AWD/5spd swap in progress
1995 Q45 - 5spd swap in progress
1984 200sx hatch(KA-t swap) - 355WHP
1991/1993/1995/1997 240s - Dead
1982 200sx hatch - fixed/scrapped
Location: CT

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it only works as a return for the coolant.

Look at the FSM, for a coolant source, you need the high pressure water from the block.

The flow path is...

1) Water pump
2) Block - Including Heater Core Circuit
3) Head - Including Radiator Circuit
4) Thermostat - which is where all of the return lines are plumbed

Repeat

You can pull off any point in those circuits, as long as the return is later in the same circuit.

My source is the block (stock drain plug), with the return directly back to the thermostat housing. You could also use the heater core feed on the block, or the coolant lines for the throttle body. Another set of ports that might work is the head to thermostat return.

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Yeah I looked at the flow diagram of the cooling circuit and decided to tie into the heater core circuit. I'm a little concerned though whether there will be enough pressure with it being plumbed in series to move coolant through the turbo, or whether the water will just sit stagnant in the lines. It also doesn't help that the turbo is the highest point in the circuit in my system. I'm definitely anticipating bleeding issues lol.

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superDorifto
Posts: 1306
Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2005 1:13 pm
Car: 1997 Eclipse Spyder - AWD/5spd swap in progress
1995 Q45 - 5spd swap in progress
1984 200sx hatch(KA-t swap) - 355WHP
1991/1993/1995/1997 240s - Dead
1982 200sx hatch - fixed/scrapped
Location: CT

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Pressure is not going to be an issue, you should be more concerned about flow, car coolant systems are closed, so the pressure is going to be there, the flow however is ultimately limited by the line size you choose.

You want bigger than -4 (1/4"). I'm running -6, but a bigger drag set up might need -8 or bigger.

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superDorifto
Posts: 1306
Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2005 1:13 pm
Car: 1997 Eclipse Spyder - AWD/5spd swap in progress
1995 Q45 - 5spd swap in progress
1984 200sx hatch(KA-t swap) - 355WHP
1991/1993/1995/1997 240s - Dead
1982 200sx hatch - fixed/scrapped
Location: CT

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getting close to installing this beast.

last pieces that needed the wrinkle...
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decided against the gray valve cover....MOAR WRINKLE RED!!!!!!!
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After painting the damn thing I realized that it still needed some light machine work. I dropped it off to get the breather tube drilled and tapped for its AN fitting, and had the baffle vacuum hole relocated to keep the s13 cams from squirting oil directly into the baffle. I also had my machinist mill the top .100" off the spark plug covers so that these will fit....

Audi Coils to go with the AEM, Red of course...
Image

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I like the wrinkle...

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PapaSmurf2k3
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I wrinkled my Prelude's valve cover back to factory black. It turned out quite nice and was pretty easy to work with.

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So easy a smurf can do it....

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superDorifto
Posts: 1306
Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2005 1:13 pm
Car: 1997 Eclipse Spyder - AWD/5spd swap in progress
1995 Q45 - 5spd swap in progress
1984 200sx hatch(KA-t swap) - 355WHP
1991/1993/1995/1997 240s - Dead
1982 200sx hatch - fixed/scrapped
Location: CT

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I'm gonna smurf the s*** out of this smurfing thing.

Install is set for the last 2 weeks of Dec, Foster is gonna be home to help (considering the engine is in his parents garage).

I'm waiting on a call back for availability from the tuner, and I'm trying to line up a friend that does videography to capture some video on the dyno. Also looking for a winter beater.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Ah, Foster will get you right as rain.

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Tell Foster I said hey would ya!

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superDorifto
Posts: 1306
Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2005 1:13 pm
Car: 1997 Eclipse Spyder - AWD/5spd swap in progress
1995 Q45 - 5spd swap in progress
1984 200sx hatch(KA-t swap) - 355WHP
1991/1993/1995/1997 240s - Dead
1982 200sx hatch - fixed/scrapped
Location: CT

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Got the valve cover back today. Looks pretty and red, but made some real functional changes based on the set up I'm running.

Image

The VW coils I'm planning to run are a bit to long, and a bit too wide for the stock spark plug holes. My machinist hit each bore with a 1-1/16th end mill for about 1/4 inch.
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He stopped because he started to see some porosity in the casting - this may just be my valve cover, but in any event, I plan on sealing the bore with a small smear of silicone. The small dot in the radius of the new cut is the pore that was exposed by the end mill.
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FYI, anyone else wanting to run these coils, you need to cut the rubber boot off completely, and turn/grind down the coils as shown.
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A secondary consideration, because I am running s13 cams in my s14 motor, there is a final journal on the cam at the back of the motor that spins free. s14 heads lack this extra journal/cap. It would not be such a huge problem, except it is right bellow the valve cover oil baffle vacuum intake. Luckily you can keep the breather from filling up with oil with a few well placed spot welds and a few new holes to relocate the baffle.
Image
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Up next, final motor assembly, installation, and tuning.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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I was just going to mention something, but I don't want to jinx you, so I'll just patiently await the next update :)

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superDorifto
Posts: 1306
Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2005 1:13 pm
Car: 1997 Eclipse Spyder - AWD/5spd swap in progress
1995 Q45 - 5spd swap in progress
1984 200sx hatch(KA-t swap) - 355WHP
1991/1993/1995/1997 240s - Dead
1982 200sx hatch - fixed/scrapped
Location: CT

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please do, I would rather worry about failure points now...rather than chase them later.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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It was just a comment about missing parts preventing you from full assembly.

I was missing my alternator bolt for a month (with no 240s in any junkyards around) before I could put everything back together.

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superDorifto
Posts: 1306
Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2005 1:13 pm
Car: 1997 Eclipse Spyder - AWD/5spd swap in progress
1995 Q45 - 5spd swap in progress
1984 200sx hatch(KA-t swap) - 355WHP
1991/1993/1995/1997 240s - Dead
1982 200sx hatch - fixed/scrapped
Location: CT

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More teaser shots...Ignore the marks on the hose, I was playing around with the cutter.

With the exception of the PS lines, I'm replacing every hose/line on the motor. For the vacuum, I am trying something a bit different.
I'm trying this out on the PCV system first, depending on how it works, I may try it on the rest of the vacuum lines. These are, "push to connect," fittings, used in automation, and pneumatic systems.

They are available in lots of different configurations. These are 3/8 OD, nickle plated, with a viton internal o-ring.

Pressure Range
28in Hg - 150+psi ( honestly don't remember the high number, but it was WAY above what an automotive system will ever see)
Temp Range
-30F - 200F (might be a bit tricky for waste gate actuation)

The hose is a high density nylon, its rated from the same vacuum, but has a higher max pressure. Similar temp capability.

They are identical to the push to lock fittings on a paintball gun, only much bigger. They also have available in line check valves and other special fittings to keep routings neat and tidy.

I'm planning to run these from the VC to the intake (pre turbo), and from the de-oiler, through a functional catch can and a one-way check valve to the intake just after the TB. it should mimic the functionality of the stock system, keep the blow-by for the most part in the catch can, and still work under boost. Thoughts?

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Razi
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As long as you can get it to work like the stock system, it should be good.

Here's how the S14's PCV system is like. KA's system is like that too.

Image

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superDorifto
Posts: 1306
Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2005 1:13 pm
Car: 1997 Eclipse Spyder - AWD/5spd swap in progress
1995 Q45 - 5spd swap in progress
1984 200sx hatch(KA-t swap) - 355WHP
1991/1993/1995/1997 240s - Dead
1982 200sx hatch - fixed/scrapped
Location: CT

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It'll function exactly like the stock KA system, but will have a working catch can to grab oily vapor coming out of the de-oiler on the side of the block.

The PCV valve is removed, and rather than 4 lines (One for each runner) I'm runnign a single line after the TB with a one-way valve. Under partial/low throttle, this line will see high vacuum, and the case will be evacuated through the catch can.

Under boost, the check valve will close, and flow will revert through the timing cover, and out the VC to a pre turbo inlet. This is exactly the way that the stock system works.

I have a schematic at work that I made from the stock KA schematic, I'll see about posting it.

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superDorifto
Posts: 1306
Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2005 1:13 pm
Car: 1997 Eclipse Spyder - AWD/5spd swap in progress
1995 Q45 - 5spd swap in progress
1984 200sx hatch(KA-t swap) - 355WHP
1991/1993/1995/1997 240s - Dead
1982 200sx hatch - fixed/scrapped
Location: CT

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Razi wrote:As long as you can get it to work like the stock system, it should be good.

Here's how the S14's PCV system is like. KA's system is like that too.

Image
:wtf2:
BTW - f*** Nissan makes some f*** useless diagrams....why not just include a goddamned schematic? What is this, story time? Why have 50 confusing little cartoon arrows? Sorry this s*** just irks me....

Whenever I need info from my FSM I find these finger painted monstrosities.

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Razi
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:rotfl :rotfl

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PapaSmurf2k3
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hahaha.
Why go to the other style of line? It seems like you're trading simple bulb fittings with hose clamps for thread-in stuff. Seems like a lot of work to "fix" something that wasn't broken in the first place.

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superDorifto
Posts: 1306
Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2005 1:13 pm
Car: 1997 Eclipse Spyder - AWD/5spd swap in progress
1995 Q45 - 5spd swap in progress
1984 200sx hatch(KA-t swap) - 355WHP
1991/1993/1995/1997 240s - Dead
1982 200sx hatch - fixed/scrapped
Location: CT

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Because Racecar

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Well played. Carry on!

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superDorifto wrote:Because Racecar
:spitout:

Push2connect fittings are sweet.

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superDorifto
Posts: 1306
Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2005 1:13 pm
Car: 1997 Eclipse Spyder - AWD/5spd swap in progress
1995 Q45 - 5spd swap in progress
1984 200sx hatch(KA-t swap) - 355WHP
1991/1993/1995/1997 240s - Dead
1982 200sx hatch - fixed/scrapped
Location: CT

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So,

I'm getting real close to installing this thing, and before I do I just wanted a second set of eyes to glance at my vacuum diagram.

Keep in mind I'm running the following:
- AEM EMS
- GM 3.5 Bar Map with a dedicated port on the intake
- AEM Boost Solenoid control for the HKS waste gate on my turbo
- Venting to ATM on the BOV
- Stock IACV for AC and High Electrical load correction
- Running a OEM style PCV (Main line runs from the de-oiler with a 1 way valve to a high vacuum source post TB, and the VC goes to a location that will flow under full load - the only place I can find without a dedicated vacuum pump being pre-turbo)

Also running, but not in the diagram:
- GM IAT
- AEM EUGO
- GM Oil Pressure Sending Unit
- The FPR is going to be tee'd into the Brake Booster Line until I put in my Chase base Manual Booster

If anyone sees some egregious error, speak up...I'd rather find it now then later...

Image

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Is there going to be an oil/air separator inline between the VC and intake? I'd also add one between the intake and the PCV. I don't have a lot of faith in the factory de-oiler.

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superDorifto
Posts: 1306
Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2005 1:13 pm
Car: 1997 Eclipse Spyder - AWD/5spd swap in progress
1995 Q45 - 5spd swap in progress
1984 200sx hatch(KA-t swap) - 355WHP
1991/1993/1995/1997 240s - Dead
1982 200sx hatch - fixed/scrapped
Location: CT

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I am planning on putting one between the De-oiler and the 1 way valve. I was only going to add a baffled catch can to the VC line if the blow by became a problem. I also left the FPR out of the above diagram - its going to be tee'd into the brake booster, or the MAP line until I get my chase base manual booster installed. The God speed manifold only has 2 ports on the bottom, and I wanted to keep the install clean...if its a problem once I get the motor up and running, I can always use one of the topside ports if needed.

I've got this posted on a bunch of other sites soliciting advice, so far the only advice was to move the BOV signal post TB...any thoughts on that? I'm not running crazy boost, and thought that the momentary delay between vacuum on one side of TB vs the other really wouldn't make a difference to the BOVs operation. I'm only running 14psig,

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I source all of my vacuum from the manifold. I doubt that it will change the operation of the BOV much if any, it's more of a personal preference kinda thing. Using the manifold eliminates pressure drop at the intercooler for boost control also. I use a vacuum manifold.

Image

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Well the BOV needs to see manifold pressure for the signal. That difference in pressure (when the signal goes vacuum and the charge pipe is still positive pressure) is what triggers the valve to open.
I've always run it to manifold. Never been able to get it to work any other way.

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superDorifto
Posts: 1306
Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2005 1:13 pm
Car: 1997 Eclipse Spyder - AWD/5spd swap in progress
1995 Q45 - 5spd swap in progress
1984 200sx hatch(KA-t swap) - 355WHP
1991/1993/1995/1997 240s - Dead
1982 200sx hatch - fixed/scrapped
Location: CT

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I've gotten the same advice from pretty much everyone else as well. I'm moving the BOV signal to the manifold, but leaving everything else as is...I might end up running separate catch cans for each side of the pcv circuit. I had my machinist make some mods to the cheap godspeed can I bought, looks like I need him to make the same mods to a second one as well.


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