Suggestions for my next mods??

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
JDMSIL80
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My car has the following mods installed:

Blitz Access tuned ecuGT28RWalboro 255FMICTurbo manifold3inch turbo-backHKS filter

Max boost is only 5.6 psi, Im still running stock injectors and stock MAF.

I have GT-R 444cc plugs sitting around pending for installation, but Im running very rich with my current setup, stock plugs are really blackish and idling is little bouncy occasionally.

Should I get a boost controller now so I can increase the boost to run a little leaner? or a bigger MAF with SAFC? or go all out with standalone to have full control? My power goal is to get ~300whp.

Looking forward for some good advices, thanks!



Modified by JDMSIL80 at 11:10 AM 9/23/2005
Modified by JDMSIL80 at 2:33 PM 9/23/2005


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float_6969
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My vote will always be for standalone. Man I LOVE my SDS. It's soooo nice.

Not_a_sr
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boost controller and a wideband o2

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float_6969
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Jon, don't you think he'd need a SAFC before the boost controller? He's running a chipped ECU, and probabally doesn't know the exact specs it was setup for.

I'm not doubting you, just wanting to know a little more about where your train of thought was coming from.

Not_a_sr
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put on the wideband, then up the boost if your AFRS need adjusting then go with a SAFC,Rom tune, or standalone.

hes probably setup for 450s or 550s on that ecu. i would get a wideband next to know what your AFR's are actually at. with out it you wont be doing any good wuth a SAFC youll be "tuning" in the dark,and that is probably more dangerous then throwing on a wideband and upping the boost on the current ECU.

my purchases would be wideband,cheap o boost controller,and some sort of way to alter your fueling.


rexhunta
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NOS and some stickers..

Chucksome boost in, and your gtr injectors.. best off safe from running rich then leaning out


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8ggalant
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a few people on here have hit 300 w/ similar mods to you PLUS a bigger maf, injectors (id say 550 at a minimum for your goal), fpr and a tune(i know someone who made 298 w/ 450's and bumped up fuel pressure...afrs were dead on, on the wideband....some people dont agree w/ this method...ive seen it work ALOT of times, just posted taht to let u know yer close w/ yer 444's...and you dont necesarily NEED 550's but i would agree its safer than using the fpr to get more fuel..but then again thats partially what its for so blah.....its yer choice)

yer almost there

JDMSIL80
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First of all, thank you for all the valuable suggestions!

I just bought a new Blitz ID-color boost controller which Im going to install this weekend.

How much boost am I able to run safely based on what I already have installed?

Blitz Access tuned ecuBlitz gauges (boost/oil pres/EGT)GT28RWalboro 255FMICTurbo manifold3inch turbo-backHKS filterStock injectors & MAF

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CA19DET
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i agree that that ECU is porbably tunned for:

Z32 AFM440cc injectorsT28 (S14/S15 =/~ gt28r)1 bar boost

SO - i would get a Z32 AFM, slap in those 440's and turn the boost up up to about 14psi SLOWLY!!! - checking your EGT's as you go along if you cant get on a Dyno.. (make sure timing and fuel presure etc is spot on)

i am sure you can get more out of that setup with a S'AFC II or E-manage and be able to run 18psi or so...

JDMSIL80
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What is the peak temperature on the EGTs that is safe to reach up to?

Right now Im only running at 5.6 psi and my EGT gauge reads between 400- 600 degrees depending on rpm. The temp sensor is installed in one of the primaries of the turbo manifold, about 7 inches off the exhaust port.
Modified by JDMSIL80 at 10:51 AM 9/30/2005

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float_6969
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I don't have any experience with it, but I thought you weren't supposed to run it in one of the runners as you will only be getting readings from that one runner, and not the motor as a whole. I'm not sure how valid of a train of thought that is.

JDMSIL80
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I know what you mean, but to get accurate readings I was told the sensor should be mounted approximately 7 inches off the exhaust port. Anything more will yield inaccurate readings. Im running turbular manifold, if the sensor is installed in the elbow, it would be too far off.

Lets assume my engine is in good shape, with all four cylinders making consistent gas temperature.

What is the peak temperature on the EGTs that I should watch out for to avoid running lean while turning up the boost?

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float_6969
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Instead of typing it all out, I'm just going to refrence a site for you. They'll probabally explain it better than I can anyway.

Here ya go...http://www.sdsefi.com/techegt.htm

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iliketocrash
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as far as egt sensors go i believe you're supposed to place the sensor in the runner corresponding to the cylinder that runs the leanest. because there's always one cylinder that runs leaner than the rest and that's usually the one you gotta look out for. at least that's how i understand it.

Coldspawn
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float_6969 wrote:My vote will always be for standalone.
My vote too
Not_a_sr wrote:put on the wideband, then up the boost if your AFRS need adjusting then go with a SAFC,Rom tune, or standalone.

hes probably setup for 450s or 550s on that ecu. i would get a wideband next to know what your AFR's are actually at. with out it you wont be doing any good wuth a SAFC youll be "tuning" in the dark,and that is probably more dangerous then throwing on a wideband and upping the boost on the current ECU.

my purchases would be wideband,cheap o boost controller,and some sort of way to alter your fueling.
He may not be doing the tuning himself. If that is the case, ask the tuner what system he like for your car, and get it. If he/she says SAFC, find a new tuner.

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rico05
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Coldspawn wrote:He may not be doing the tuning himself. If that is the case, ask the tuner what system he like for your car, and get it. If he/she says SAFC, find a new tuner.
Worst advice ever. The tuner has to look at it as a cost/benefit analysis for the cutomer. Let's say hell freezes over and I take my car into a shop to have it "tuned". The team asks me what my goals are, and I tell them the truth: 250rwhp, no more than $2k more from where I am now. That is the max that I honestly want, so a ROM tune and a SAFC to clean up the map with proper accessories (Z32 AFM, T28, 460ccs, etc). That is solid advice, as a stand alone is ~$1000, with that much again in tuning from the shop. So, what I could do in ROM and AFC for $800-$1000 TUNED, might just be a better value for ME. Now, what his goals and needs are, I do not know. But I am saying that just because a shop is honest and dosen't charge you out the a$$ unnecessiarly is a GOOD thing!

Coldspawn
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rico05 wrote: The tuner has to look at it as a cost/benefit analysis for the cutomer.
Yes, they should. They should also know how and why a product is better then another. SAFC is garage. No good tuner in their right mind will tune it with a FI or NA. Read what I posted in "Ecu tuning question?" thread about it.
rico05 wrote: That is solid advice, as a stand alone is ~$1000,
Well, that is not solid advice because there is a few great stand-alones out there for less then $1000.
rico05 wrote:So, what I could do in ROM and AFC for $800-$1000 TUNED, might just be a better value for ME.
Better value? I think a $200-400 more for a tune on a better EMS is cheaper then a new motor. Not to mention less time too.
rico05 wrote: Now, what his goals and needs are, I do not know. But I am saying that just because a shop is honest and dosen't charge you out the a$$ unnecessiarly is a GOOD thing!
Well, you can look short term or long time. I think SAFC is a short-term fix. I never tune with "short term" in mind, sorry.
rico05 wrote:Worst advice ever.
Explain to me why it is bad advice. Not every tuner knows/likes every software/stand-alone out there. Like I said, talk to your tuner what you think is good for your set-up. Then do research on what he says. If he likes SAFC, he is either: Bad tuner or does not kind about your car.

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rico05
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I do not see the SAFC as a short term fix for me, as I stated that my final goal for this car is 250hp. Yes! There are some great options out there for less than a grand as far as stand alones go, but every shop that I have spoken with does not tune them (SGP does PFC, Motec; SPL does Motec; Rotary Performance does PFC, etc) I have yet to find a shop in my area that will tune a MegaSquirt or a BikiROM.

An SAFC is perfect for someone with conservative hp goals. As a matter of fact, a local friend of mine has a 450hp wheel Prelude tuned by Jotec (I pray that name means something to you) tuned on VAFC, SAFC, AVCR and that is it. It worked for him and Kenny Tran.

Yes! A full EMS is MUCH better than a SAFC at 300hp+ power goals as you have much more headroom as far as tuning goes.

No, I will not go read your thread, no matter what you may have said. I do not trust you know what you are talking about, I am sorry.

And for folks that want some better info than Mr. Spawn has to offer, here is a good place to start:http://store.yahoo.com/sgpraci....html

You also have to figure in TUNING into the mix of cost.I have plenty of pals with all kinds of motor combos running SAFCs that have yet to blow up.

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rico05
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Also, you can try asking the user "mikehutch711", as he has a VERY nicely tuned CA (GT28, etc) with a SAFC and JWT ECU. He is someone that has more experience than Mr. Spawn with a SAFC on a CA18DET.

Coldspawn
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rico05 wrote:INo, I will not go read your thread, no matter what you may have said. I do not trust you know what you are talking about, I am sorry.
I am sorry that you are closed minded. You drop names like I give a damn. I am sorry you think this way. I think it is sad that people are like you. You do not like me because of what I posted on the internet, get a life.
rico05 wrote:And for folks that want some better info than Mr. Spawn has to offer, here is a good place to start:http://store.yahoo.com/sgpraci....html
rico05 wrote:Also, you can try asking the user "mikehutch711", as he has a VERY nicely tuned CA (GT28, etc) with a SAFC and JWT ECU. He is someone that has more experience than Mr. Spawn with a SAFC on a CA18DET.
Hehe, personal attacks, I love it. You know what cars I have work on or my racing history? Nope. You got mad on the internet because of what I said. That is sad and funny at the same time.

Keep dropping names, it shows what you know (lack there of).

Remember this and remember this well. Just because it works, does not mean it will work all the time. A broken clock is right twice a day........
Modified by Coldspawn at 11:16 PM 10/2/2005

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8ggalant
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rom edit + afc= done

for a max 250-300whp standalone is overkill imo..

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float_6969
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Rico and Coldspawn, I value both of your inputs in this thread, but I'm just going to nip this in the butt right now. If either of you have a problem with me locking this, PLEASE feel free to email me with your questions or comments.


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