SUCCESS!!! (sort of)

[mej30guy]

I did the resistor bypass trick over the weekend, with tremendous results. The car performed beautifully. However, when I attatched the new knock sensor, the performance reverted back to square one.

I first relocated the bracket that holds the throttle cables, and put the sensor there, using a 40mm bolt. (direct block contact) No good. the car ran like crap. I then moved it to the top of the bracket plate (100mm bolt) that holds the crossover tubes. Again no luck. Finally, I tried another 40mm bolt just to the left of the 2 side by side bolts on the crossover bracket plate. This one hols down a bracket that supports 2 electrical connectors on the top passenger side of the engine. The plate is thinner, so I thought the results would be better. It was, but still not as good as just using the resistor trick.

I used high heat copper lubricant, and each time I tightened the sensor until it just grabbed, then one more 1/8th turn to set it. (too tight?) Only once did the sensor come in direct contact with the block. The other 2 times were on top of a well polished (220 grit) plate. Those had the biggest surface area for contact with the sensor, so I figured they would be the best spot.

What can I do to get this straightened out?

[gr8scott72]

I did the resistor bypass trick over the weekend, with tremendous results. The car performed beautifully. However, when I attatched the new knock sensor, the performance reverted back to square one.

I first relocated the bracket that holds the throttle cables, and put the sensor there, using a 40mm bolt. (direct block contact) No good. the car ran like crap. I then moved it to the top of the bracket plate (100mm bolt) that holds the crossover tubes. Again no luck. Finally, I tried another 40mm bolt just to the left of the 2 side by side bolts on the crossover bracket plate. This one hols down a bracket that supports 2 electrical connectors on the top passenger side of the engine. The plate is thinner, so I thought the results would be better. It was, but still not as good as just using the resistor trick.

I used high heat copper lubricant, and each time I tightened the sensor until it just grabbed, then one more 1/8th turn to set it. (too tight?) Only once did the sensor come in direct contact with the block. The other 2 times were on top of a well polished (220 grit) plate. Those had the biggest surface area for contact with the sensor, so I figured they would be the best spot.

What can I do to get this straightened out?

Make sure your connections are good.

There's a slim possibility that you put a bad KS on there.

[mej30guy]

I thought about a bad ks, but the car showed improvement with the last attachment, so I figgered it was good.

As far as the connections, where would they be bad? The male end of the harness clips solid into the ECU lead, and the other end of the harness clips into the ks.

Could the connection be bad on the block, or could it be too tight?

I know I'm close to getting this fixed, which adds to the frustration.

[GerryO]

Check the resistance between the two terminals of the KS (it should be close to that of the resistor) and for continuity between the two ends of the sub-harness.

[mej30guy]

The resistor is a 1 megohm 1/2 watt, so the ks should register at least that, correct? Is that something that can be done with an ohm meter? I don't have one, but I'm sure the gearhead kid next door does. I'll also check the end of the harness to see what that reading gets me.

As far as relocation of the ks, where is the best place for it? Were my places ok?

One other thing. With the resistor, rpms in drive with my foot on the brake are around 660. With the knock sensor, just below 1k.
Modified by mej30guy at 12:11 PM 9/29/2008

[GerryO]

When you connected the resistor did you connect it directly to the Main harness at the open connector or in place of the KS at the end of your new sub-harness?

[GerryO]

The resistor is a 1 megohm 1/2 watt, so the ks should register at least that, correct? Is that something that can be done with an ohm meter? I don't have one, but I'm sure the gearhead kid next door does. I'll also check the end of the harness to see what that reading gets me.

As far as relocation of the ks, where is the best place for it? Were my places ok?

One other thing. With the resistor, rpms in drive with my foot on the brake are around 660. With the knock sensor, just below 1k.

Modified by mej30guy at 12:11 PM 9/29/2008

The sub-harness should have two wires. You want to know that each of them has continuity and independent of the other.

I'm not sure that any location is as effective as the original location, but KS protection is really something that you never want to test anyhow with pre-ignition/engine detonation.

The difference in engine timing is probably affecting the engine speed at idle, and the lower number is the correct one.

[mej30guy]

I connected it to the female end of the main harness that runs to the ECU. I was amazed at how much better the car ran. No issues whatsoever. I know I can't run with the resistor for ever, so I'd like to get this taken care of as soon as possible.

I figured the lower idle speed was correct. It just sounded so much better. Almost like it was saying: "Aaaaahh, that feels better. Finally this idiot has done something right."

[GerryO]

I figured the lower idle speed was correct. It just sounded so much better. Almost like it was saying: "Aaaaahh, that feels better. Finally this idiot has done something right."

Makes it so much easier to stop the car.