Hey all,

Last week my ‘98 started to delay starting when the ignition was turned. This week it is taking a few turns and holding the ignition turned over.

I’ve read a few of the articles and threads advising it could be the neutral safety switch rather than the starter and a method of testing this is if it starts in neutral and not in park it is a good indication.

Given my Q is starting in park is it safe to say this is starter related? Is there a more efficient way of testing the starters condition before removal?

It is highly likely this is the original starter in the vehicle however I have not confirmed this 100%.

You could try temporarily bypassing the neutral safety switch entirely to see if the problem goes away. That's still considerably easier than replacing the starter.

According to internet lore, removing the splash guard under the engine has an adverse effect on starter reliability - Reduces the amount of airflow across it, allowing it to soak up more engine heat.

please elaborate on "delayed starting"?
you turn the key to the momentary start position and what happens? a "click" but no spin? do the idiot lights change intensity during fault vs. 'normal' cranking?
When I refurb'd the starter on my FGY33, it was that i would get the click no spin on about 30% of attempts. next try was successful.
I chose buying my own piece parts and doing the work on the factory installed Mitsu PMGR as opposed to trusting a 'rebuilt'.
The starter replacement is not fun on this car. I lowered the PS rack. If you do it on a lift it may actually be easier in the long run to drop the subframe (keep engine supported) and support the rack rather than dorking with removing the steering shaft input to rack.

3Q Jay wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 03, 2021 7:54 am

please elaborate on "delayed starting"?
you turn the key to the momentary start position and what happens? a "click" but no spin? do the idiot lights change intensity during fault vs. 'normal' cranking?
When I refurb'd the starter on my FGY33, it was that i would get the click no spin on about 30% of attempts. next try was successful.
I chose buying my own piece parts and doing the work on the factory installed Mitsu PMGR as opposed to trusting a 'rebuilt'.
The starter replacement is not fun on this car. I lowered the PS rack. If you do it on a lift it may actually be easier in the long run to drop the subframe (keep engine supported) and support the rack rather than dorking with removing the steering shaft input to rack.

Hey Jay,

My dash lights do not change intensity or fault when turning key to start position. When I posted this I was facing similar results of car clicking but no start on 50%+ of my cranks, sometimes if I held it in the start position it would crank and start up almost instantly. This week I am having near no problems starting except maybe once out of 10. This is leading me to believe the starter is on its way out, battery is brand new as of January. I was considering spending the $300-$400 on a new factory starter for the car given it’s a difficult item to replace and the current one lasted 22 years/125k miles. I would be interested in a rebuild kit potentially as well - any suggestions on where to get something like that?

I've recently been using "maniac Motors" outta Dallas TX--they ship really fast, but may not have everything needed.
https://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/st19inq4517.html
I also replaced the solenoid (biggest deal unless brushes completely worn to nothing) as well and the drive--which maniac doesn't seem to have (might call and ask them).
I think I got those from "just parts" years ago--note that at the time they wouldn't sell unless you have a resale certificate.