So my $120 gamble paid off. The GTR brake line fits perfectly on the M and my brakes don't feel so sluggish anymore and looks great with red calipers.

BUT

This will fit 2011 & early model 2012's without modifications. For late model 2012 and 2013+ years, you will need to buy additional hardware to convert your front hardlines for any Stainless Steel Brake lines on the market. (See below)

I chose to buy the Power Stop GTR brake lines since it was cheaper than the alternative that was specifically made for the M and was in stock.
The early year GTRs uses the same front OEM brake line as the M and the the rear line is only 0.5" longer than the M so I figured this might work and was $80 cheaper than the one specifically made for the M. You mainland people have it lucky. I need to pay two arms and a leg to get stuff shipped to me.

Anyways....I bought it from AutoZone https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-tra ... 954587_0_0 use the code SHOPNSAVE to save 20% and get free shipping.

Alternatives to buying:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... &jsn=10949
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-produc ... -4870.html

If you want to buy the set that is specifically made for the M, then buy the Goodridge P/N 22039 for sports brake. The good thing is Goodridge also sells P/N 22038 for the non-sports brake.

The goods:
Front


Rear


Drivers side






Passenger side









For some late model 2012's and all 2013+ M/Q's. If your front brake hose looks like this then you'll need to buy additional hardware.


You need to buy these additional parts:
46245-JK60B Brake Tube RH
46246-JK60B Brake Tube LH
54314-JK60A Brake Hose Braket RH
54315-JK60A Brake Hose Braket LH

Great that you shared this setup. I just ordered mine from Autozone as you suggested with the SHOPNSAVE promo code and delivered cost to me is $130.40. Goodridge 22039 would of cost $175.00.

Thanks!

I forgot to mention, you'll need to also loosen the nut on the caliper itself to allow some wiggle room to remove and install the blocks.

Yoda's Master wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 15, 2021 12:14 pm

I forgot to mention, you'll need to also loosen the nut on the caliper itself to allow some wiggle room to remove and install the blocks.

What nut are you saying has to be loosened on the caliper? Without looking at the caliper, I can't remember a nut/fastener on the caliper other than the brake line banjo bolt and bleeder valve. Are you meaning the two 22mm caliper mounting bolts on the backside of the hub?

BTW, did you find out the torque specs for the four bolts that join the caliper halves that you were rebuilding?

C6Joe1957 wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 15, 2021 3:29 pm

Yoda's Master wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 15, 2021 12:14 pm

I forgot to mention, you'll need to also loosen the nut on the caliper itself to allow some wiggle room to remove and install the blocks.

What nut are you saying has to be loosened on the caliper? Without looking at the caliper, I can't remember a nut/fastener on the caliper other than the brake line banjo bolt and bleeder valve. Are you meaning the two 22mm caliper mounting bolts on the backside of the hub?

BTW, did you find out the torque specs for the four bolts that join the caliper halves that you were rebuilding?

The 10 mm line nut on the other end of the hardline. Just crack the nut a little bit, that'll give you some wiggle room to remove the block without bending the hardline.
You don't have to loosen the big mounting bolts.

I never got the torque specs for the caliper half bolts. There was a debate about it on the 370z forum, but no consensus on what it should be. Bolt markings don't match the generic torque table FSM either.

Pictures have died, but do not purchase the powerstop brake lines since they changed the design and no longer looks like the picture on the website. Buy the Z1 lines instead.