SR20DET powered B13 thread!

[mmm240]

I know RED DET has one, anyone else?

I'm rather impressed. I knew this little car would move, but it moves a bit better than I expected. Can't wait for it to warm up and hit the local drag strip.

Mine is from an Avenir; which I thought was just a 210hp version, but the SR20DET FAQ thread states 226, really? what gives it that jump in HP?

My engine is all stock, running 3in turbo back exhaust and a rather large front mount. Here are some pics:





I was thinking about getting a boost controller and upping it to 15; which is really all the little T25 can put out efficiently. I'm still running the stock ECU, can I pull this off with a stock tune? I imagine the 370s will be okay.

What kind of fuel economy should I be expecting? I get 22mpg. I'm wondering because I judge efficiency by this, sounds about right considering I have a hard time staying off boost.

Anyways, lets keep this thread open as a general chat of the boosted B13!

[RED_DET]

We talking stock se-r ecu or jdm ecu? The Avenir puts out a bit more horsepower because of the ball bearing turbo. But from the pics, your avenir is the w10, which doesn't have ball bearing turbo. The w11 avenir has a silver valve cover and comes with ball bearing t25. The 370's max out around 250 whp, but the alternative is to run them @ 4bar fuel pressure which will get you closer to 280whp, which you aren't going to see on the T25 anyways. Next issue that will max out is the stock maf, around 250 as well. Boring out the stock maf to 54mm will allow you run around 280 just as the 370's @ 4bar. Anything more than 280 and z32 MAF is the next upgrade and s15(480cc) injectors @ 4bar or 555cc. 22mpg seems ok if you are boosting all the time, but on the highway cruising you should see 30 easy. I think it is time you step up to the calum ecu and take complete control over all parameters.

Keep in mind that if you upgrade ecu or injectors, the ecu must be tuned for that as well. The calum real-time ecu will allow for that and more.

If you run your setup @ 15 psi, you will be very close to maxing out the maf & injectors as I stated above, so be careful.



Installed the bigger intercooler & disco potato a few months ago.....

[mmm240]

It's the Avenir ECU. I'm not looking to spend a lot of money or even a lot of power; that's for the CA I'm building to put in the vert Just a little more. So your saying all I have to do is get a boost controller and boost it up a bit and the ecu will compensate? I'm new to this boosting thing. I''ll be sure to keep it under 15lbs. The bumper cover has some soot on it so I've got some rich to spare, lol.

You have one super clean B13! And that front mount fits in there nice. Is that cause of the lip or is it mounted up in there?

[RED_DET]

Yes you can turn the boost up and the ecu will compensate. Are you running all the jdm sensors, such as water temp & o2 sensor?

Thanks, I try to keep it simple! It took some work to get that intercooler to fit.







27x12x3....

[mmm240]

I'm not sure if I'm running all the JDM stuff, how do I find out?

That is a thick a** cooler. My bumper cover is cutup, but not my bumper support; that's impressive!

[mmm240]

I want a better engine shot too!

I took it a little easier and saw almost 25mpg last tank

[RED_DET]

If you didn't switch out the temp sensor from your old motor and switch it out, then it should still be the jdm sensor. If you don't have any idle issues after warm up then you are ok. The o2 sensor on the jdm motors should be the skinny version. If you didn't change that either, then you should be ok as well.

[mmm240]

I have some slight idle issues, they don't bother me much. Tapping the gas, getting it up to 1500 or so and when it starts coming down it hits 1100 and drops rapidly to 800 is one. And occasionally when I let off and put it in neutral when cruising it drops to near 400, but comes back up to 800.

[RED_DET]

Have you adjusted your AIC (air idle control) screw.

[mmm240]

I thought that was just for cold start idle?

[RED_DET]

It also helps with the almost stalling issue.

[mmm240]

Maybe I'll take it off and clean it too.

[RED_DET]

excellent idea! The motor is quite old.....

[mmm240]

Maybe you can help me with my leaky manifold? There is a piece of steel in the way and I'm having trouble getting a wrench in there. The leak is where my finger is and a cm up is where the steel is.

[RED_DET]

You will soon despise of that issue. There is a metal gasket that goes between the turbo and manifold which wear out and begin to leak. The steel that is in your way is the oem nut lock, which is designed to keep the nut from completely backing off. If you have a leak and have never replaced that gasket, the time has come. The part is cheap, but you will have to take the turbo & manifold off the engine to replace this because it is impossible to get to the back two nuts. The other issue you will have is putting the oem oil feed hard line back on because there is no give. The coolant line can be a bit tricky but with a little coaxing it can be done. At this point most who ever have to pull the turbo/manifold off, put stainless steel lines back on with proper fittings.