Okay folks, so I keep being an idiot.

Here is a history of the issues of my new-to-me M56x:

1) Purchased some LED bulbs for the interior of the car. Converted 99% of the car without issue.
2) Got to the front footwell lights (under the dash) and when I went to remove the stock 194 bulbs, they were basically seized inside the socket.
3) To get the bulbs out, I had to use needle nose pliers. I ended up shattering the passenger side bulb and having to clean that mess up. Once I installed the LED bulb in the passenger side, it was working great.
4) On the drive side, I couldn't get it out no matter what I did for like 20 minutes. Finally, I got it out, but in the process I must have shorted something as soon as I installed the LED bulb because both footwell lights went out as did the front and rear dome lights.
5) The door lights still work. The dome lights still work if I enable them manually. They will NOT work when the door is open. I checked every fuse I could thing of. If I remove the 'room lamp' one, they no longer turn on manually, so I know that's the fuse. It works.
6) So, convinced that I had somehow messed up my BCM (body control module), I bought a used one on EBay.
7) I realize that, per the FSM, you have to get the BCM programmed...but I figured because the dome lights work manually, that if the issue was the BCM, swapping it as a test should enable them to work just like the door ones (which didn't require a BCM program to work with the second BCM)...I would just need to program the BCM for all of the other stuff like starting the car, etc. to work (key isn't detected when the second BCM is installed).
8) NOPE. The new BCM is completely useless. Same issue.
9) Fine. Car 1, Ilya 0. I put the stock BCM back in but now I have ANOTHER issue...if my AC temp is set to 60, I get cold air. Anything set to 61 or above blows HOT air. WTF?

So...to sum it up, cliff notes:

Tried installing LED bulbs in the front footwells. While doing so, I somehow shorted the circuit to my front and rear automatic dome light control (on door open). I replaced BCM as a test, same result. I put stock BCM in, and now I'm back to the same light issue...along with another issue. My temperature controls seem to be screwed up. If I set it to 60, I get cold air. If I set it 61+, I get hot air. No in between.

I figured the stock BCM would still be programmed and thus everything would work as it did before the swap, even if the new BCM didn't help me.

UGHHHHHHHHHHHH

Dealer is packed tomorrow so I can't even go over there and pay them $100 to scan the car with CONSULT to see WTF is going on with both issues.

That is weird.

The only thing I can think of is that in the process of turning the broken bulb to take it out, you may have twisted the socket so that the wires behind it are shorting ... Try taking the LED out, turning the socket back the other way a bit (if it moves) and then see if the problems disappear.

Z

These sockets are the push in kind, not the twist. I've taken the bulbs out, so nothing should be shorting, etc. Something, somewhere is damaged...thing is I don't think it's a burnt wire for example as the lights still work manually. If they didn't work at all, then I'd imagine it would be a burnt wire or something.

Right?

This is so odd. I'm going to drive in tomorrow and sweet talk service to see if they'll loan me a tech for 10 minutes to run a CONSULT test...that's all I need. I'll buy the guy lunch.

I would try removing the light housings in question and unplugging them to eliminate them from the circuit. Perhaps the metal tabs inside the housing are making contact, and causing some issues.

Hmm, didn't think of that. I'll have to try that and report back.

Any progress? Inquiring minds want to know!

Per a recommendation, I have disconnected the battery and will reconnect it tomorrow morning before heading to church. We'll see if it at least fixes my temperature control issue.

Pulling the battery did absolutely nothing. Well, actually it reset a bunch of my settings.

take out all the LEd bulbs. put back the original ones. they might not be drawing enough current, thus sending errors of some form.

That is a good thought, and does apply to some applications, but I believe there is enough people on here that have done full LED conversions with no such issues to rule that out as a possibility. I really think the issue is with the housings, or at least that would be a good place to start the process of elimination.

SmoovC wrote:That is a good thought, and does apply to some applications, but I believe there is enough people on here that have done full LED conversions with no such issues to rule that out as a possibility. I really think the issue is with the housings, or at least that would be a good place to start the process of elimination.

Yeah, I had a full LED conversion on my 07 (which is where 90% of these bulbs came from as I swapped them out before completing the trade-in).

Tomorrow after work I'm going to disconnect the two footwell light housings and see what happens. Friend told me to just put it all back to stock and take it to the dealer and play dumb and tell them it just broke lol................

Actually not a bad idea lol.

I second your friends idea about taking it to the dealer.

However, a BIU can do all sorts of silly things. That is one of my main gripes with newer cars- all of those electronics have to be coded to the chassis, and only the dealer can do it. Even if you have the tool, the process would be trial and error for the average guy.

Its a sad day in age when you can't change you own damn light bulbs in a car.

Good thing I saved all the stock bulbs...

And yeah, agreed. I've changed bulbs many many times...never had a bulb that stuck or this sort of issue.

I like the take it to the dealer & "play dumb" approach!

I have replaced every interior bulb in my car with LEDs and had no issues getting bulbs out and everything works fine. You do need to be careful with turn signals and brake lights which can cause a computer error in many newer vehicles due to not pulling enough current and, therefore, appear invisible to the cars computer due to no filament and very low resistance but interior bulbs have no such effect.

It's not an issue with the bulbs. I shorted something, somehow by trying to get that one bulb (driver side footwell) out.

Update on this stuff...I got the temperature resolved by putting the underdash back together lol. Evidently, the knee kick panel thing needs to be plugged in completely for that to work properly. So I'm now back to the light issue. Going to go to the dealer after the new year sometime and try to get it resolved.

Please tell me you found a solution? Help I am in the same boat. Overhead dome lights only work when the manual switch is turned on. Nothing comes on in the doors position. An led base cracked allowing the pos and neg to short out.

Frog wrote:Please tell me you found a solution? Help I am in the same boat. Overhead dome lights only work when the manual switch is turned on. Nothing comes on in the doors position. An led base cracked allowing the pos and neg to short out.

As per our PM conversation; I have not.

But please do go ahead and post what your dealer said in here so we can keep the information in here for all to see (in case someone down the road runs into the same issue as us).

After 8 hours of working on the car, it's a wire Harness. Huge job. Hope it all goes back together with out any rattles. Infinity requires the entire
Harness to be replace. They can't Just run a new wire. I'll post back when the jobs done.

Okay let me know. Boy, it pays to have warranty. I'm not even worried lol.

The problem is the BCM. You shorted out the BCM. I'm not an expert, but the same thing happened to me in my Q45. I was changing a light bulb out and I heard pop. The headlights immediately came on and stayed on. The interior lights only worked manually. The auto-off headlamp feature stopped working. Once I replaced the bad BCM everything was fixed. You probably bought a bad BCM off Ebay, IlyaKol.

That is always a possibility...it was a cheap attempt at fixing it myself without waiting hours (or days with a new harness) for the car at the dealer.

I had a hunch it was the BCM because I had something similar happen on my 1999 Maxima and it was the BCM then.

You did the right thing. Try the quickest cheapest way first, then move to the next step. I still think you're at step one -- you need a working BCM. I don't use or trust Ebay at all. I don't know what you paid for the part but it's a $1000 part at the dealership, at least it was for my Q45. I went to a junkyard in Maryland and got a rear sunshade and BCM for about 200 bucks. I got lucky, it could have been a bad bcm just like you got.
You can try again on ebay or at a local junk yard, just make sure you get a money back guarantee.The process is the same as before -- take out the bad bcm, replace it with the new to see if the bcm fixes the issues, then put the old one back drive to the dealer and get the keys reprogrammed. If you do this, make sure to test EVERY SINGLE OPTION in your car. Auto-on headlights, interior lights, anything you think the BCM controls. Good luck. Sorry I didn't see this post earlier I would have told you to get your money back on the BCM.

I got it for $90.

Bumping this up. I took the car in to the dealer to get the coolant, trans fluid, and diff fluid switched out and also have them look at a couple of other things as I have a $100 deductible for the Elite warranty and just wanted to accumulate of a 'list' for them to do instead of doing multiple visits. According to service, this issue is definitely BCM related (I'm assuming they plugged in a CONSULT device and ran it's BCM diagnostic). They ordered a new one and it will be here tomorrow. I'm in a 2015 Q70 3.7 loaner right now, so no worries. Not a bad car (not as loaded as mine), but I much rather have the V8 lol.

My lighting was the wire harnes. Did the same thing as you did installed led lights. And fried a wire and caused a wire harness to be replaced. It wasn't.

Well, I guess they'll find that out tomorrow when they install the new BCM and program it and test. Love having warranty though, not my problem. Even if I *may* have caused the issue (still not 100% sure I did).

Yep, wiring harness. They have to take the whole dash out. Crazy.

yep, I probably could have told them what wire lol. Tell them to be very careful with your head liner. They will most likely crease it. Where the o s*** handles are. So tell them to take it easy.

And why it isn't fuse protected is beyond me