so this thingy seem to broke... help please (56k get your *** in here)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
User avatar
Kckouki
Posts: 7821
Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 6:49 pm
Car: '97 Nissan 240SX

Post

Bizump


User avatar
motoman399
Posts: 2982
Joined: Mon Oct 09, 2006 9:18 pm
Car: 98' wrecked (RHD coming soon) 240
Location: Eureka, Ca
Contact:

Post

you really need to just leave it for now and take an electrical class at your local college. you need to learn how electricity is transfered to different things. i really suggest it. and im not trying to flame.

User avatar
SketchyRollin564
Posts: 3907
Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2007 4:06 pm
Car: SR hatchback in the werks

Post

id rather not leave it, im getting my license tommarow and i was really hoping it would have it fixed by then

as far as a college class... im only 16 bro lol

my dads pretty good with this stuff, so hes been helping me a tiny bit when he can, but he thinks its a mechanical problem and not electrical. i still wanna check to see if its an electrical or connection issue first though, cause its not good to take out the motor and put it back together, or get a new one, if its still not gonna work cause of a stupid switch.

he agrees with me that its better to do it ourselves cause the dealer is gonna rape us on this one, and he thinks its cool that im learning and ive already gotten this far

im gonna be persistant on this one, so im still willing to take any advice you guys throw my way, but i really wanna check if its the electrical, but how do i do that?

read a few posts up as far as what ive tried so far with the test light

User avatar
Devilstar
Posts: 88
Joined: Mon Jun 05, 2006 1:11 pm
Car: 98 240 sx SE
Location: Utah
Contact:

Post

thats why you dont go to lowes ( i run the elcetrical dept at home.... and those guys are idiots at every lowes i have ever been too ) so i have a good idea of how to help the helpless ( every try and teach people to wire a house and not burn themselfs down so they can save some cash? yeah it sucks )

the test light, while a good idea... doesnt help **** if he is just randomly poking wires...

you need to get really systematic with this man... so get good and comfertable in your inverted gandi postion... pick a singel wire in the hvac control unit.. and make sure the power is on to the car ( IE key is turned to the point where the windows will roll down if its got power windows.. if not... one click before it trys to turn over.. ) and push each control button ( IE feetize.. face-ie, bothie etc etc.. ) and leave it on a single setting for a few seconds.. if no lights.. push the next button down the line.... if you get no light at all for any of the buttons or fan control switch ( just so you know what wire you got poked try all the controls ) move onto the next until you find the one your after...

let me know what you come up with...

User avatar
SketchyRollin564
Posts: 3907
Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2007 4:06 pm
Car: SR hatchback in the werks

Post

good advice, but what am i hooking the light up to, or keeping the probe in?

idk which of the three plugs for the HVAC goes to the directional switches

but **** im dying to try this now

User avatar
Devilstar
Posts: 88
Joined: Mon Jun 05, 2006 1:11 pm
Car: 98 240 sx SE
Location: Utah
Contact:

Post

give me like twenty minutes.. i am going to take pictures really quick

okay so i got pictures.. lets start easy:

now this should be what your looking at when you start.



this is where you are going to connect the alligator clip that is on the test lamp ( it should work just fine ) this is under the shift boot..



now just from looking at the back of the controls i can tell that the connector on the left ( not shown in this picture ) is most likely power in and fan controls only.... the wires you need to test are all the one on the two connectors on the right.. follow the slow test method ( i stated above ) and you should hopefully see some results... its a lot of wires... a ton to be honest... if i knew you could ( not being rude, i just know you wouldnt have a clue ) i would recommend looking at the wiring diagram for this out of the....... wait for it..... FSM <~ best buddy to any car guy or gal...

this process is going to take you a while... so dont make any plans...
Modified by Devilstar at 3:58 PM 5/28/2008

User avatar
SketchyRollin564
Posts: 3907
Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2007 4:06 pm
Car: SR hatchback in the werks

Post

sweeeeeeeeeeeeeet i love you man!

User avatar
Devilstar
Posts: 88
Joined: Mon Jun 05, 2006 1:11 pm
Car: 98 240 sx SE
Location: Utah
Contact:

Post

yeah so, nobody make funny of the ****y sony head unit.... lol

P.S. somebody owes me a beer lol...

let me know if i can help in any other way man....

EDIT:

okay so i am a little nervous to make sure you are testing right...



this should be similar to your test.. once you get the ground hooked up as shown in the picture... you take the sharp end and stab the wire... make sure you break through the coating on it.. or you wont get a light at all... the metal tip has to touvh the copper on the inside of the wire.. if that makes sense...

User avatar
SketchyRollin564
Posts: 3907
Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2007 4:06 pm
Car: SR hatchback in the werks

Post

lol the only pic that worked was the pic of the test light

none of the other ones are showin up

User avatar
Devilstar
Posts: 88
Joined: Mon Jun 05, 2006 1:11 pm
Car: 98 240 sx SE
Location: Utah
Contact:

Post


User avatar
SketchyRollin564
Posts: 3907
Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2007 4:06 pm
Car: SR hatchback in the werks

Post

i already found a working ground, but thats a good place to know

how to i poke the wires tho? not like that, but like when i poke them nothing lights up, but thats because they are insulated with the color thing

User avatar
Devilstar
Posts: 88
Joined: Mon Jun 05, 2006 1:11 pm
Car: 98 240 sx SE
Location: Utah
Contact:

Post

SketchyRollin564 wrote:i already found a working ground, but thats a good place to know

how to i poke the wires tho? not like that, but like when i poke them nothing lights up, but thats because they are insulated with the color thing
yep, and thats why the end of your test light should be sharp.. to stab through the seathing on it.. dont worry you wont hurt anything.. just becarful.. because it really f'in hurts to poke your finger with those things

tonynalli
Posts: 1402
Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2004 5:59 am
Contact:

Post

This is by far the stupidest and longest thread i have ever seen. Kid you need to do your own research. Ive seen you ask questions that would get anybody else flamed or banned, i think that people are going easy on you cause your like 14 or something

User avatar
Devilstar
Posts: 88
Joined: Mon Jun 05, 2006 1:11 pm
Car: 98 240 sx SE
Location: Utah
Contact:

Post

tonynalli wrote:This is by far the stupidest and longest thread i have ever seen. Kid you need to do your own research. Ive seen you ask questions that would get anybody else flamed or banned, i think that people are going easy on you cause your like 14 or something
hes sixteen man... and yeah hes askin question in probably the most dangerous place to do so.... but most of us had someone there to help us local... he might not.. or they may not be available to help...

i know its over played but we were all newbs once

User avatar
PorkChopExpress
Posts: 581
Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2007 6:01 pm
Car: rb kouki

Post

wow. Your making my head hurt. Pull the assembly and make sure it works. It may work off and on because there is a dead spot on the armature. If you move the motor the brushes are off the dead spot and it works a again for a little bit. If the assembly works then you have to trace the wires back and make sure there are no broke connectors or dead switches. If that doesn't work I want you to beat your head repeditly agenst your dash untill you get vision of what's wrong

User avatar
SketchyRollin564
Posts: 3907
Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2007 4:06 pm
Car: SR hatchback in the werks

Post

tonynalli wrote:This is by far the stupidest and longest thread i have ever seen. Kid you need to do your own research. Ive seen you ask questions that would get anybody else flamed or banned, i think that people are going easy on you cause your like 14 or something
Chill man, not everybody is born knowing everything. Ive never really needed to know stuff about electricity till now, so im learning everything at once, from knowing not sh*t. Theres not really anywhere i can do research on air mix doors not working

im reading the FSM but theres still things that are a little unclear for both me and me dad, but im trying

how would asking questions about this get other people banned?

User avatar
SketchyRollin564
Posts: 3907
Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2007 4:06 pm
Car: SR hatchback in the werks

Post

PorkChopExpress wrote:wow. Your making my head hurt. Pull the assembly and make sure it works. It may work off and on because there is a dead spot on the armature. If you move the motor the brushes are off the dead spot and it works a again for a little bit. If the assembly works then you have to trace the wires back and make sure there are no broke connectors or dead switches. If that doesn't work I want you to beat your head repeditly agenst your dash untill you get vision of what's wrong
the assembly doesnt seem possible to pull unless i take out the dash, which i definatley do NOT wanna do

and dont get mad, but idk how i can see if theres broken connectors or dead switches

User avatar
SketchyRollin564
Posts: 3907
Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2007 4:06 pm
Car: SR hatchback in the werks

Post

Devilstar wrote:
yep, and thats why the end of your test light should be sharp.. to stab through the seathing on it.. dont worry you wont hurt anything.. just becarful.. because it really f'in hurts to poke your finger with those things
the one i have is like a flat head screwdriver at the tip, so id have to use wiere stripper to get beyond the insulation (as far as i know), and i dont wanna do that on every single wire

wierd tho... never knew it was supposed to stab through

edit: just checked again, its a different one thats a flat head, this ones pretty damn pointy, so ill have to check this later on tonight when i get home

User avatar
SketchyRollin564
Posts: 3907
Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2007 4:06 pm
Car: SR hatchback in the werks

Post

alright the pictures appear to work now, and it makes a lot of sense, so im gonna go try that now

also, before i waste too much time, i have the FSM saved on my computer, but i really dont understand how to read the wiring diagrams. What is it im looking for?

User avatar
motoman399
Posts: 2982
Joined: Mon Oct 09, 2006 9:18 pm
Car: 98' wrecked (RHD coming soon) 240
Location: Eureka, Ca
Contact:

Post

SketchyRollin564 wrote:as far as a college class... im only 16 bro lol
i went to my local college and took a class in welding. i became a certified welder when i was only 16. just cause your young doesnt mean you cant go to college classes at night or something...
SketchyRollin564 wrote:but i really dont understand how to read the wiring diagrams
confuses the hell outta me too.. if i had more time i would try to help you more. but i just started a new job. sorry dude

User avatar
Devilstar
Posts: 88
Joined: Mon Jun 05, 2006 1:11 pm
Car: 98 240 sx SE
Location: Utah
Contact:

Post

yeah wiring diagrams suck to read.... lots of following lines to see where they go and connect too...

User avatar
SketchyRollin564
Posts: 3907
Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2007 4:06 pm
Car: SR hatchback in the werks

Post

well the test light poking through the wires works on the white harness connector plug thing, but on the two black ones, its harder cause there thin

itd be easyer to move it around if i could get the black plugs out. ive gotten em out before a couple times, but for some reason, they do not want to come off this time, i tryed a coupe days ago, and spent like 10 fcking minutes yesterday, and neither of them will come off

idk god really doesnt want me to fix this

User avatar
Devilstar
Posts: 88
Joined: Mon Jun 05, 2006 1:11 pm
Car: 98 240 sx SE
Location: Utah
Contact:

Post

most of the plugs have a tab that needs to be undo before they come out....

i hate to say it man but if you dont want to be digging through the dash, maybe its time to vist it the dealership...it would be a different story if i was closer... but i am kinda on the other side of the country

User avatar
motoman399
Posts: 2982
Joined: Mon Oct 09, 2006 9:18 pm
Car: 98' wrecked (RHD coming soon) 240
Location: Eureka, Ca
Contact:

Post

ya kinda the same story for me. im all the way in cali. dont you have a high school auto shop? or is there another nico member that would me willing to pitch in?

User avatar
SketchyRollin564
Posts: 3907
Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2007 4:06 pm
Car: SR hatchback in the werks

Post

nah dude, my school isnt cool enough to offer autoshop, or any classes that can actually benefit you in the real world

i really wish it had it though

and yeah, i know you gotta undo the tabs, but as far as i push em in, and as hard as i try to pull it out, this thing is being a little biiitch

ive done it before so its not like i dont know how to do it.. but im about ready to melt the plastic off with a lighter

User avatar
PorkChopExpress
Posts: 581
Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2007 6:01 pm
Car: rb kouki

Post

I will be down in your area this weekend. Send me a email and I will give you my number. Put on some fishnets clear boots and have icecream in hand.

User avatar
sebazztard
Posts: 2583
Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2007 9:44 pm
Car: 1992 Nissan 240sx rb25det project. 2000 Honda Accord LX DD. 1992 Nissan 300zx NA.

Post

rofl. ^ i just got my multimeter in the mail today so while im in the car doing some tests, i'll make a clip just for you, as much as you irritate me with all these questions, the enthusist in me would like to see you figure out whats going on. its really irritating , i understand but dude you gotta learn how to use these tools and use an fsm, or else get use to paying other people to fix your ****. you cant be on here asking a million questions when all you need is a bit of research. look forward to your answers ...lol.

User avatar
SketchyRollin564
Posts: 3907
Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2007 4:06 pm
Car: SR hatchback in the werks

Post

i get how to use a multimeter lol, just in the FSM i dont get what its saying on page HA-52. Its saying to put one of the prongs in the harness that goes to the motor, and then the other one in some other thing that i have no clue wtf it is

but im gonna try again to pull that gay *** harness to the switches out and see what i can figure out based on what devilstar is saying

and....
PorkchopExpress wrote:Send me a email and I will give you my number. Put on some fishnets clear boots and have icecream in hand.

User avatar
sebazztard
Posts: 2583
Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2007 9:44 pm
Car: 1992 Nissan 240sx rb25det project. 2000 Honda Accord LX DD. 1992 Nissan 300zx NA.

Post

k, on page 52, it says to unplug the harness going to the door unit and test the points. this is unfortunatly using a multimeter. the first test is to see if you have around 12 v on the first lead. you "may" get away with just using your test lamp on this. if you have power, or if your lamp lights up, then go to step 2, if it doesnt light up check your 7.5 amp fuse on the fuse block. step 2, check the other pin on the same harness for continuity. then we check the push button harness (hvac, heat/ac, etc). unplug that hanress, and test the points indicated in the pic. if we dont have continuity , we have a prob with the harness or the connector. if we do have continuity...go on to next page and this is where i stop spoon feeding, and i hope you catch on by now! lol. its not too difficult, just gotta understand what your reading.

User avatar
blacksrjdm
Posts: 2104
Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 10:26 am
Car: 89 240sx, 99 CBR900RR.

Post

Dude, put the car back together, take the car to the local Nissan dealer. and pay a qualified technician to fix it. This thread should not be 5 pages long. I understand U want to do it yourself, but, U simply do not have a clue where to start here. Take a step back, swallow your pride, and take it to a dealer.


Return to “240sx General Discussion”