slow take off until you almost have petal to the metal

General discussion forum for J30 and M30 owners!
mrjdaddy
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HI GUYSMY 1995 J30JUST HAD TIMEING SET AND IT DONT HAVE THAT PICK UP POWER ANYMOREPLEASE SOMEONE LEND ME SOME MR GOOD WRENCH KNOWLEDGE


gr8scott72
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mrjdaddy wrote:HI GUYSMY 1995 J30JUST HAD TIMEING SET AND IT DONT HAVE THAT PICK UP POWER ANYMOREPLEASE SOMEONE LEND ME SOME MR GOOD WRENCH KNOWLEDGE
Your radiator could be blocked with leaves, etc or you have knock sensor problems. Either problem the car tries to overcome by retarding the timing which you feel as a lose of power.

Check your radiator and if it's not blocked, search on here for knock sensor replacement (costly) or relocation or bypass.

gr8scott72
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mrjdaddy wrote:HI GUYSMY 1995 J30JUST HAD TIMEING SET AND IT DONT HAVE THAT PICK UP POWER ANYMOREPLEASE SOMEONE LEND ME SOME MR GOOD WRENCH KNOWLEDGE
Oh, and turn the CAPS OFF. It's viewed as yelling on the internet.

driverdriver
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gr8scott72 wrote:
Oh, and turn the CAPS OFF. It's viewed as yelling on the internet.
Thanks for conveying that to him.

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yodawill2000
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Hold the phone.

Did the J have full power before you had the "TIMING SET" ???

mrjdaddy
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Yes it had full power it ran like a champ i think timing is not done correctlyohh sorry for the caps

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yodawill2000
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I believe that would be the issue

If its not broke ,, don't fix it !!

gr8scott72
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yodawill2000 wrote:I believe that would be the issue

If its not broke ,, don't fix it !!
I'd put my money on a bad knock sensor.

mrjdaddy
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I really like this forumit makes me feel as if i have a bunch of smart unclesI also think that it is a knock sensorI was told that if it was the timing the engine would not run as smooth as itdoesoh yes where is the knock sensor located

driverdriver
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I think some of us are uncles.

gr8scott72
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mrjdaddy wrote:where is the knock sensor located
You don't want to know.

Ok, I'll tell you.

It's UNDER the LOWER intake manifold plenum which means you have to take off the upper intake manifold AND then the lower. You better know what you are doing. Major repair.

Or, like I already said, search on here for knock sensor relocation or bypass.

mrjdaddy
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Yes SirYou are right i did not want to know that

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yodawill2000
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gr8scott72 wrote:
I'd put my money on a bad knock sensor.
But he said it was running fine before the "Timing" was changed ...

gr8scott72
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yodawill2000 wrote:
But he said it was running fine before the "Timing" was changed ...
I think that's a line being fed to him by some mechanic. How do you change the timing? Rotate the distributor back a little. lol

I don't know how you would change the timing unless the actuall timing belt was off one tooth.

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yodawill2000
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All I know is it was running fine before ..I supposed the tech might have got a weird tool and cracked the KS .. lol

kbflip02
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gr8scott72 wrote:
I think that's a line being fed to him by some mechanic. How do you change the timing? Rotate the distributor back a little. lol

I don't know how you would change the timing unless the actuall timing belt was off one tooth.
the CPS which if im not mistaken is the exhaust cam on the drivers side(far left when standing at the rad looking towards the trunk)and it has 3 bolts in it...there are also marks on it....loosen the bolts and then line the marks up....then you want to set it 15 degrees advanced which would be 15 degrees turned to the right...thats what the timing should be set at stock....

buttbologna
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Actually sounds alot like my J when I got it, can't believe no one has mentioned it yet though, but check under throttle cable cover and see if your cable has slipped off the bracket, definitely will cause the pedal to go all the way to the floor before it really picks up, and it's only a 5-10 min fix tops. Also the reason I got my J for $300.

gr8scott72
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buttbologna wrote:Actually sounds alot like my J when I got it, can't believe no one has mentioned it yet though, but check under throttle cable cover and see if your cable has slipped off the bracket, definitely will cause the pedal to go all the way to the floor before it really picks up, and it's only a 5-10 min fix tops. Also the reason I got my J for $300.
No one has mentioned it because it's not a common problem. In fact, in all the time I've been on here, this is the first time I've heard of that problem.

buttbologna
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Who knows, but the previous owner tried a number of things before giving up on it and wanting to get rid of it. Just saying it's an easy check and if thats all thats wrong it would save him alot of time and money.

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infinit-t
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Yo I have the same problem! It has very poor acceleration. N it smells like gas sometimes I changed the spark plugs n gas filter n help. The car got 162xxx miles n runs smooth, u think its da transmission???

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yodawill2000
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have you read the ecu codes ??knock sensor wont trigger a check engine light.Also if you go above 3k RPM does the power come back ??I read somewhere the KS is ignored above 3K.

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infinit-t
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na i dont know about codes. But yea thats when it pulls off around 2 1/2 3

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yodawill2000
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search for the procedure to bypass the KS .. simple ,Then you will know thats the issue.

Some have relocated the new sensor to avoid removing the plenum. Big Job.Just ask gr8scott72 what he would rather do than pull his again.

gr8scott72
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yodawill2000 wrote:search for the procedure to bypass the KS .. simple ,Then you will know thats the issue.

Some have relocated the new sensor to avoid removing the plenum. Big Job.Just ask gr8scott72 what he would rather do than pull his again.
The response will have something to do with a large cliff.

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infinit-t
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I dident find any thing about knock sensors,, but i figured out it pulls of normal when its cold, the when it reaches normal temp it starts acting up...........

GerryO
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infinit-t wrote:I didn't find any thing about knock sensors, but I figured out it pulls of normal when its cold, then when it reaches normal temp it starts acting up...........
I'm experiencing similar problem and the J30 engine sure doesn't stay cold for very long. As it's coming up to temperature, the engine feels really responsive, and I suppose the idle speed is higher and the fuel mixture is richer during the warm-up period. As soon as it's warm, after each seemingly delayed shift point the struggle begins again.

Based on all the parts I've replaced on my J30 in the last six months I can think of many things that it's not, and the problem may have started after I replaced the timing belt/accessory belts/water pump/thermostat/front oil seals/etc. I lost some transmission fluid in the process, checked the level once and it looked fine, but I'm going to check again it tomorrow.

I checked/adjusted the timing (advanced it about 5 deg to 15 deg BTC) today and that didn't help. I haven't checked for any codes, as the Check Engine Light hasn't come ON at all.


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infinit-t
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do u think its a T emp sensor?????

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yodawill2000
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If the Ks is cracked it will do just that.open up when it heats up.

GerryO
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I just tinkered a bit with my trottle position sensor and I think performance is improved. The car certainly shifts earlier and more smoothly now (at about 3K rpm) with less pressure on the pedal.

Earlier this morning I had adjusted it to attain the approximately the fully closed/full open throttle resistance readings listed in the manual. At one point the shifts were at about 4K rpm and very harsh, and when I parked the car after my first test drive the idle speed was about 2K rpm.

I re-adjusted it to reduce the idle speed and need to check its' output voltage at idle as per the manual.

I'd taken it off when I removed the plenum, cleaned the throttle bodies and all.
Modified by GerryO at 9:33 AM 6/26/2008

GerryO
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gr8scott72 wrote:
Check your radiator and if it's not blocked, search on here for knock sensor replacement (costly) or relocation or bypass.
When it comes to relocating the knock sensor, it's a matter of just disconnecting the old one and leaving it in place (no plenum/intake manifold removal required), and connecting the new one?

Where's the best place to mount a new one?
Modified by GerryO at 12:59 PM 6/20/2008


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