Well guys...sorry for another period of absence on my part..Work kills me, I'm always with the old lady, but now (since her family owns a restraunt and is extremely busy in the summer) I have had quite a bit of time to work on the car and what not. Everything is done and is READY FOR SPRING/SUMMER! Its still pretty chilly here (48*F today) but I'm putting insurance and switching the plate over to the 240 this Thursday. I'm a little worried because at night it still drops to about 25*F here in Michigan, but I'm thinking I should be ok...... I just need to have a tech at work do an alignment for me with all the new ISIS arms and then fill the tank and have some FUN!

I'm LOVING the wheels!

so am I... they make it a whole new car. Everyone is telling me to go lower but I dont feel like rolling the fenders and running tons of camber to get them to fit. I have about 1"-1.5" of clearance between tire and fender all around the car so I think I should be ok and the tire wont rub the fender (im hoping!)

sjbsuperman1425 wrote: I dont feel like rolling the fenders and running tons of camber to get them to fit. I have about 1"-1.5" of clearance between tire and fender all around

Yeah, go lower. A lot lower.

Don't listen to him! If you're happy with it, leave it. I'm sure alot of people think my S14 is 4x4 status because it only has NISMO S-tunes on it (1.5" drop in the front, 1" drop in the rear) but my car rides and handles better than their slammed, tucked, rolled, cambered out drift missiles, and that's what matters to me!

Yea I like how it sits now. A bit lower, but got rid of a TON of wheel gap. Plus, I just saw on facebook a guy that lives downstate from me that scrapped his exhaust because his car is so low. F--- That!

Getting insurance and plate transfered tomorrow on lunch.

BTW Ryan, any thoughts on how many times i can take the head off without resurfacing the block? Might do another head gasket and other things next winter and am just inquiring.

>worrying about exhaust scraping
>on a sh1tbox jap car from the late 80's



lower it. a lot. it'll "grip" just fine. it looks stock now.

I've replaced it at least 3 times and never resurfaced it.

good to know, I think im redoing the head gasket again.

I've been driving the car for a couple weeks. its been 40* and rained for 5 days straight, and with no heat, its such a pain in the arse haha I had to raise the ride height of the rear a little bit to prevent the quarter from scraping my tires because I haven't rolled my fenders. I'm thinking of taking a baseball bat to them soon. But it rides great. The BC Racing coiloves are not to stiff, great for a DD IMO. Car handles terrific, steering response is terrific. Alignment is TERRIFIC! I have no desire to go lower either. Now I can focus on adding some serious boost to this in the next year!

Thanks for all the help and support so far from everybody. Its been quitet the journey so far. Im sure I'll be posting pictures over the summer and videos.

Well, it's that time of the year again..

The car is put away for the winter and I begin to spend another $3,000 on parts I probably don't need, but I desperetly want! Here is the plan:
-Kaaz 2-Way SuperQ Rear Diff
-NIStune
-ISIS 300zx MAF
-Replacing T-belt, tensioner, idler, and water pump
-Tomei Poncams are purchased and sitting at the house
-125A Alternator (96 Maxima V6)
-DSS 1-Piece steel driveshaft

The last thing on the list is injectors..and where my first question of the year falls into place. I've been researching what injectors I should have for the power goals I want (~280whp). I believe 550cc Injectors would be enough, but I would prefer to have 800cc injectors incase in a couple years I decided to go with a different turbo setup (running the S15 BB T28) and switch to a T3/T04E top mount. With the specs I'm seeing off of Deatschwerks website on flow ratings at different static Fuel pressure, would the 800cc injectors be able to be used and have a streetable tune on low boost (12psi)? I'm digging in deep and have been researching all day and just couldn't find a straight answer. Can anyone shed any light?

Quality 800cc injectors are as Street friendly as stock ones, nothing to worry about.
Could you tell me why you want a one piece driveshaft?
I just got one made for temporary testing, but It's not a shaft I will be using.
Reasons are strength, ground clearance and safety.

A two piece shaft is better in "all" areas except price.
And I assume you already have the stock two piece that would only need an uprated bearing if anything.

I have two differential setups: A VLSD and a stock open. I'm going to be switching to the open differential and putting the Kaaz 2way in it therefore, the driveshaft will be to short.

Thanks for the tip on the 800cc injectors. Keeps my options open for later on. If anyone esle has input please dont be afraid to say so.

I think the Nistune and stock ECU have enough control of the ignition timing to run 800's.

550cc injectors would be fine with maxing out the S15 T28 at 18psi correct? Im starting to lean more that way but still undecided...

^corrected* - I KNOW the injectors will work..Should have already known. I guess how high of fuel pressure do people usually run on an 18psi setup? Possibly buying the injectors today. credit card still has some room left

If you want the injectors to flow at their rated value, you need to run whatever fuel pressure they're rated for at that flow rate. It's usually 45psi. I usually run 50psi, simply because the math to make sure my fuel pump is keeping up is simple.

ok then yea it makes sense for me to go 550cc rather than 800cc at the moment. Thanks for the input Ryan and tommey

Well I've been back a little bit here and there. Been talking to Buddyworm (Kenji) the past couple weeks and have been sourcing some power steering parts. Somehow, I ended up getting two whole setups instead of one lol. But here is a little of what's been going on.

I bought a house back on 12-26-13. Has a decent sized garage to store my car in so that's the main reason I bought it haha. I can't remember if I said it or not, but I have some Tomei Poncams, Deatschwerks 550cc Injectors, ISIS 300zx MAF, new Dayco Timing Belt Kit (with tensioner and idler), a Maxima 125A alternator, and sent out the ECU Monday to have AutoVaughn Performance put the NIStune board in it.

I'm going to be changing out the cams but waiting to do the injectors and MAF until after I've had the car running and driving a little bit to break the cams in. I'll probably drive on them for 500 miles (about a week for me) then change the oil and upgrade the injectors and MAF and get it running and what not.

I have NOT seen a decent write up anywhere really on larger alternators on the CA18DET other than pictures of people putting them on the engine when its on the stand. The new Maxima 125A alternator has a different connector so I had to get one from Nissan and will have to wire it in. I will make sure to post up some pictures of putting it on and what not. Still have to get all the tools and stuff over to the new garage. Its been like -30* and the past month, now its like 30* and winds blowing up to 60mph so weather has been crazy. Took me about 2 hours just to get the car out of the snow in the backyard where I kept it for a little bit.

If you have alternator questions, LMK. I fitted a Quest alternator (125A) and it was pretty straightforward.

the thread I saw the maxima 125A alternator install on was the one titled "CA18.5DET Build" or something of that sort. It's supposed to bolt right up and only need a new bracket for the tensioner. I'm sure I'll be able to figure it out, but If I neeed help, I will definitely let you know.

what the benefit of the alt swap?

Think if it as people adding a bigger alternator when adding a big car audio amplifier and subs. same concept. There is to much electrical load in the car sometimes and my car almost stalls (wipers, rear defrost, headlights, radio, gauges, etc.) so this should take care of that issue

I did it because I'm going to have to run hydro-electric power steering and brakes and so will be pulling WAY more amps than the factory alt. can keep up with.

ok so if I'm not doing either then it would be pointless to swap bigger?

My thought is, anything that pulls current is pulling away from my engine and reducing power. If I can replace that charge that was just taken from the battery quick enough, then the loss will be minimal.

^^I believe my thinking is wrong, terminology might be a little off though lol

The battery will decide how quickly it charges more than the alternator. As long as you can provide enough current to power the car and put power into the battery, then the alternator is doing it's job. The issue with large current draw components (audio amplifiers, electric brakes, electric steering) is they can take big gulps. If it happens frequently enough, the alternator can't keep up and the battery discharges to compensate.

^^^What he said. That's what I meant to say lol

I know its not much of a big deal, but here is what I've been up to lately...











I actually tore it back down Tuesday after work. I just felt like I messed up on the cam seals so I bought new ones and am installing them tomorrow morning and buttoning it back up. Should only take about an hour tops.

Thanks to the help from Ryan (float), Andrew at Enjuku, and Adam at FRSport for the help with install procedure. Tomei doesn't have one in the manual so I asked around.

So how do you like the cams? I hear they're a great cam. No loss in bottom end, but it wakes up the top end. Have you ever said how much boost you're running? If you have that T28 maxed out with those cams, you should be getting close to 300whp!

I haven't even started it yet...haha I just got back in the house from the garage. I just redid the cam seals (feel way better about them now). Then I broke a bolt on the upper timing belt cover so I had to deal with that. Now I'm working on mounting up the new alternator. The Maxima alternator and the CA have a different connector in the alternator. I had a spare relay box laying around so I'm going to do some soldering and what not and make myself a nice little harness to wear if this one takes a crap for some reason, I can just unplug the adapter harness I"m making, put the good CA alternator I have on it, and then still drive with little down time.

As far as boost, I'm only running 10psi now. When I bought the engine and trans I never took the trans off to inspect the clutch.....that was back in 2008!! So this fall, I'm pulling the engine/trans, doing the clutch, driveshaft, and differential and putting the injectors and MAF I have laying around and turning up the boost. I have everything I need, I just think If i tried to make more power, the clutch will slip and my summer will be ruined! lol

Pics will come soon. I need to find a spacer/washers for the alternator to mount up, make a bracket for it, and finish my adapter harness.

The alternator doesn't mount up exactly. The "feet" spaced farther apart on the Maxima alternator than on the CA. So I used this:



To Make This, just so it would be easier to position the alternator in the car.


Since the connectors are different I purchased this part number from Nissan


The Difference in plugs:


The Plug I found laying around and the one that connects to the lower harness


FINISHED PRODUCT




Just need to make a bracket to adjust belt tension and I'm done!