i did the same thing! check out my thread! it all worked out, my STS is hawt-to-trot and kickin as i type this =)spockrock wrote:
screw I just broke my screwing cable....!!!!
http://forums.altimas.org/zero...-i-do
i did the same thing! check out my thread! it all worked out, my STS is hawt-to-trot and kickin as i type this =)spockrock wrote:
screw I just broke my screwing cable....!!!!
nope mine is worse, the screwing plastic piece that connect to the ball joint, and the cable snapped, as in the plastic ball joint completely, broke. I need to replace that screwing cable.RobPaulson wrote:
i did the same thing! check out my thread! it all worked out, my STS is hawt-to-trot and kickin as i type this =)
http://forums.altimas.org/zero...-i-do
I have no clue how I did it, I tried to follow the advice here, and not force it out, but to pry gently, and next thing I know *snap*. I know that is my fault, and no one elses, screw I am so pissed at my self right now.mpbclutch33 wrote:Mine should be here this week. I wonder if someone could do a video of the install the right way, so more of us don't break it.
Thanks man.dldjros69 wrote:Yeah Esp excellent video, you pretty much showed everything about the sts. I was not expecting that. Racingline should put that on their website.
Did you to the manny fluid change?Do you have an after market exhaust?
Finally whats up with that bracelet. lol
34413-L32001spockrock wrote:Quick question gents, seeing as I have to replace the ball joint cable, anyone happen to know the part number???
I read every post back to front, I was using your method, and applied very little force to the cable when it snapped. I was not applying lots of force just trying to pry the cable up, when it snapped. Its obvious that I screwed up some where but what makes no sense is how some people said they had applied a lot of force to remove it and I was firmly prying and snapped the screwer.GreyZone wrote:Worth repeating...
Guys guys guys (and girls),
The removal of both these parts, when done right, takes less the 60 seconds each. I kid you not.
Don't keep trying to do it the wrong way, over and over and over. If you're not getting it STOP, and understand the RIGHT WAY to do it (this thread has covered it in very good detail).
When I did this install it was very easy, AFTER having read through these threads to learn from others experienece first. Listen (read and look) closely to what is being said, then go ahead and do it. But this is one where you gotta follow the advice being given CLOSLEY or things like 3 hour (plus) installs are going to occur.
Try these tips:
1) On the shift cable:Using a medium size screw driver, place the tip immediately next to the post, directily under and next to where the the cable END PIECE attaches to the post, and gently (yet firmly) pry up and toward the intake (best leverage is from the outside going toward the intake). It will pop off easily when you get the right leverage. VERY LITTLE FORCE IS NEEDED. It's all about leverage and the right angle, not brute force. (DO NOT pry or put any force on the cable itself)
2) On the retaining clip:Using a large needle nose plier, grasp the tab/top of the clip (lengthwise) and use the plier as a leveraging device to "pry" the clip out of position (rock back and forth as needed). Again, it will come out easily with only moderate force needed.
GreyZone wrote:Another good tip is to make sure you do your prying in front of the post (toward radiator) versus behind post (toward cable) in order to stay well away from the cable.
Racingline wrote:screwdriver is red line, arrow show direction to pry
Racingline wrote:it does pry of, all I'm saying is to try from the side where your hand is in the pic. Pry up from where your thumb is, well up and toward the engine. Right not you have the screw driver coming in from the front of the car. By coming at it from the front of the car, the cable itself is applying more resistance to your efforts
This should ultimately lead to faster 0-60 and 1/4 mile times. Anyone want to test this theory? I haven't yet taken my car to the track so I can't.dldjros69 wrote:Since there is not as long of a wait when you shift gears, the rpms stay higher and the car pops when it gets in gear. its nutz
"Mcheidoodleface"? Really? Dude, I'm hurt........... hahaLinkNuc wrote:I used Needle Nose pliers and basically "hulked out" as Mcheidoodleface says in his video...
btw here comes that swear filter but screw I could of used that tool.ESP wrote:
"Mcheidoodleface"? Really? Dude, I'm hurt........... haha
Needle nose pliers on either side would have made it so much easier for me. I can't remember the exact angle I had the screwdriver at when it popped off...I just remember hitting some sort of a 'sweet spot' and it popped off after I yanked hard enough.
...did anyone notice that TWM's version of this for the Sentra comes with a specialized puller for this very purpose? Directly from their website:
"With the short shifter adapter also comes a specially designed tool to help disconnect the shifter cable from the stock pivot arm. Removing the shifter cable by hand is difficult, and prying it off with screwdrivers or a pry bar is risky for the cable. The special tool TWM has designed is simple and effective because it applies even pressure to the cable and removes it straight upward."
Oh well! If needlenose pliers work just fine, then so be it!
Someone should contact Taz from RaclingLine and suggest to him to sell a tool like that.ESP wrote:...did anyone notice that TWM's version of this for the Sentra comes with a specialized puller for this very purpose? Directly from their website:
"With the short shifter adapter also comes a specially designed tool to help disconnect the shifter cable from the stock pivot arm. Removing the shifter cable by hand is difficult, and prying it off with screwdrivers or a pry bar is risky for the cable. The special tool TWM has designed is simple and effective because it applies even pressure to the cable and removes it straight upward."
fixedRacingline wrote:AKA BALL JOINT SEPERATOR
no, thats not what Im saying...what Im talking about, use pictured redline as screwdriver, same angle, and simply move it forward 1/2" and pry it off from that position, in front of the post (not from the front of it).dldjros69 wrote:Naaa
Quote, originally posted by GreyZone » Another good tip is to make sure you do your prying in front of the post (toward radiator) versus behind post (toward cable) in order to stay well away from the cable.
Quote, originally posted by Racingline » screwdriver is red line, arrow show direction to pry
Quote, originally posted by Racingline » it does pry of, all I'm saying is to try from the side where your hand is in the pic. Pry up from where your thumb is, well up and toward the engine. Right not you have the screw driver coming in from the front of the car. By coming at it from the front of the car, the cable itself is applying more resistance to your efforts