spockrock wrote:
screw I just broke my screwing cable....!!!!

i did the same thing! check out my thread! it all worked out, my STS is hawt-to-trot and kickin as i type this =)

http://forums.altimas.org/zero...-i-do

RobPaulson wrote:
i did the same thing! check out my thread! it all worked out, my STS is hawt-to-trot and kickin as i type this =)

http://forums.altimas.org/zero...-i-do

nope mine is worse, the screwing plastic piece that connect to the ball joint, and the cable snapped, as in the plastic ball joint completely, broke. I need to replace that screwing cable.

I didnt even use that much force..... screw ME.... I knew I should of given up.

guys if you don't mind I am going to cry, and then monday call nissan, tow have my car towed there, and then they can repeatedly screw me over and over again, to replace the part.

Mine should be here this week. I wonder if someone could do a video of the install the right way, so more of us don't break it.

mpbclutch33 wrote:Mine should be here this week. I wonder if someone could do a video of the install the right way, so more of us don't break it.

I have no clue how I did it, I tried to follow the advice here, and not force it out, but to pry gently, and next thing I know *snap*. I know that is my fault, and no one elses, screw I am so pissed at my self right now.

lol the board keeps replacing 'f---' with screw.

dldjros69 wrote:Yeah Esp excellent video, you pretty much showed everything about the sts. I was not expecting that. Racingline should put that on their website.

Did you to the manny fluid change?Do you have an after market exhaust?

Finally whats up with that bracelet. lol

Thanks man.

Haven't done the fluid change yet...No exhaust yet (still trying to decide between GReddy and Artisan)......the bracelet is because I dig leather...alot. I used to swordfight and at the time I built alot of battle-ready armor (both chainmaille and leather) so yeah, it's something of a relic from those days! haha

...and I'm in awe of the language-blocker! screwity screw screw screwaroo!!!

WHoo friggin whoo!!!! This is awesome, thanks for the tip on getting the pivot off! Great way to kill time, now its tailgate time here we go Steelers!!! This kit is friggin awesome...!!!! It is like summer here so I threw it in, WOWWEEEE!!!! I wish the Canucks a Stanley Cup for that little piece of Canadian ingenuity ...

Quick question gents, seeing as I have to replace the ball joint cable, anyone happen to know the part number???

If you are just replacing that cable, i dont know how easy that is going to be.

I dont think that is a diy project.

spockrock wrote:Quick question gents, seeing as I have to replace the ball joint cable, anyone happen to know the part number???

34413-L32001

http://www.courtesyparts.com/a....html

Worth repeating...

Guys guys guys (and girls),

The removal of both these parts, when done right, takes less the 60 seconds each. I kid you not.

Don't keep trying to do it the wrong way, over and over and over. If you're not getting it STOP, and understand the RIGHT WAY to do it (this thread has covered it in very good detail).

When I did this install it was very easy, AFTER having read through these threads to learn from others experienece first. Listen (read and look) closely to what is being said, then go ahead and do it. But this is one where you gotta follow the advice being given CLOSLEY or things like 3 hour (plus) installs are going to occur.

Try these tips:

1) On the shift cable:Using a medium size screw driver, place the tip immediately next to the post, directily under and next to where the the cable END PIECE attaches to the post, and gently (yet firmly) pry up and toward the intake (best leverage is from the outside going toward the intake). It will pop off easily when you get the right leverage. VERY LITTLE FORCE IS NEEDED. It's all about leverage and the right angle, not brute force. (DO NOT pry or put any force on the cable itself)

2) On the retaining clip:Using a large needle nose plier, grasp the tab/top of the clip (lengthwise) and use the plier as a leveraging device to "pry" the clip out of position (rock back and forth as needed). Again, it will come out easily with only moderate force needed.

GreyZone wrote:Worth repeating...

Guys guys guys (and girls),

The removal of both these parts, when done right, takes less the 60 seconds each. I kid you not.

Don't keep trying to do it the wrong way, over and over and over. If you're not getting it STOP, and understand the RIGHT WAY to do it (this thread has covered it in very good detail).

When I did this install it was very easy, AFTER having read through these threads to learn from others experienece first. Listen (read and look) closely to what is being said, then go ahead and do it. But this is one where you gotta follow the advice being given CLOSLEY or things like 3 hour (plus) installs are going to occur.

Try these tips:

1) On the shift cable:Using a medium size screw driver, place the tip immediately next to the post, directily under and next to where the the cable END PIECE attaches to the post, and gently (yet firmly) pry up and toward the intake (best leverage is from the outside going toward the intake). It will pop off easily when you get the right leverage. VERY LITTLE FORCE IS NEEDED. It's all about leverage and the right angle, not brute force. (DO NOT pry or put any force on the cable itself)

2) On the retaining clip:Using a large needle nose plier, grasp the tab/top of the clip (lengthwise) and use the plier as a leveraging device to "pry" the clip out of position (rock back and forth as needed). Again, it will come out easily with only moderate force needed.

I read every post back to front, I was using your method, and applied very little force to the cable when it snapped. I was not applying lots of force just trying to pry the cable up, when it snapped. Its obvious that I screwed up some where but what makes no sense is how some people said they had applied a lot of force to remove it and I was firmly prying and snapped the screwer.

-edit- Hey grey I was reading my post and it comes off as a bit snappy, sorry thats not what I intended, I am just really pissed at myself for screwing up the install, I appreciate all the help you provided, but like I said I screwed up. I am just waiting to see how much the dealership is going to rape me.
Modified by spockrock at 1:55 PM 2/1/2009

No offense taken, I understand your frustration. Another good tip is to make sure you do your prying in front of the post (toward radiator) versus behind post (toward cable) in order to stay well away from the cable.

You may want to check the price of the part seperately and see if someone other than the dealer could install it...might save you some money.

oh **** that sucks. i dont know how mine didnt break since i did it the exact opposite way everybody was saying how to do it. i put the screwdriving in closer to the intake and pulled towards me using all my force i can. and im a strong guy and im really lucky i didnt break it like you did. sorry that sucks

Im so jealous. That video just reminded me of how much I wanted (want) a MT...



You have no idea.Hurry up with the Tranny swap, I want it NOW lol

Naaa

GreyZone wrote:Another good tip is to make sure you do your prying in front of the post (toward radiator) versus behind post (toward cable) in order to stay well away from the cable.

Racingline wrote:screwdriver is red line, arrow show direction to pry

Racingline wrote:it does pry of, all I'm saying is to try from the side where your hand is in the pic. Pry up from where your thumb is, well up and toward the engine. Right not you have the screw driver coming in from the front of the car. By coming at it from the front of the car, the cable itself is applying more resistance to your efforts

I used Needle Nose pliers and basically "hulked out" as Mcheidoodleface says in his video...even pressure on both sides of the pivot and pop goes the MF'n weasel.....beauteous.....no bends no MF's no probs...but I did snap off th ecenter screw of the intake scoop..oh well they had 3 screws holding a 1# piece of plastic in, the middel was least important...its fine...Love the kit...well done

Dammit, I missed out on the GB. Now I don't want to buy it anymore!

Now its 30$ more + shipping.

I guess I'll wait for another product to come out with intro pricing or wait for racingline to lower pricing again.

dude jump on it, its worth the extra loot

i love it

Since there is not as long of a wait when you shift gears, the rpms stay higher and the car pops when it gets in gear. its nutz

dldjros69 wrote:Since there is not as long of a wait when you shift gears, the rpms stay higher and the car pops when it gets in gear. its nutz

This should ultimately lead to faster 0-60 and 1/4 mile times. Anyone want to test this theory? I haven't yet taken my car to the track so I can't.

BTW, mine comes in on Thurs. and I'll be installing it this weekend!

Heck yeah it has to make the zero to 60 and track times faster. Im not sure how much, but its way more snappy.

I remember playing forza 1 and 2, that any tranny upgrades, clutch, shifter, ect minimize shifting times by either .01 a shift or something like that.

id like the actual numbers

LinkNuc wrote:I used Needle Nose pliers and basically "hulked out" as Mcheidoodleface says in his video...

"Mcheidoodleface"? Really? Dude, I'm hurt........... haha

Needle nose pliers on either side would have made it so much easier for me. I can't remember the exact angle I had the screwdriver at when it popped off...I just remember hitting some sort of a 'sweet spot' and it popped off after I yanked hard enough.

...did anyone notice that TWM's version of this for the Sentra comes with a specialized puller for this very purpose? Directly from their website:

"With the short shifter adapter also comes a specially designed tool to help disconnect the shifter cable from the stock pivot arm. Removing the shifter cable by hand is difficult, and prying it off with screwdrivers or a pry bar is risky for the cable. The special tool TWM has designed is simple and effective because it applies even pressure to the cable and removes it straight upward."

Oh well! If needlenose pliers work just fine, then so be it!

ESP wrote:
"Mcheidoodleface"? Really? Dude, I'm hurt........... haha

Needle nose pliers on either side would have made it so much easier for me. I can't remember the exact angle I had the screwdriver at when it popped off...I just remember hitting some sort of a 'sweet spot' and it popped off after I yanked hard enough.

...did anyone notice that TWM's version of this for the Sentra comes with a specialized puller for this very purpose? Directly from their website:

"With the short shifter adapter also comes a specially designed tool to help disconnect the shifter cable from the stock pivot arm. Removing the shifter cable by hand is difficult, and prying it off with screwdrivers or a pry bar is risky for the cable. The special tool TWM has designed is simple and effective because it applies even pressure to the cable and removes it straight upward."

Oh well! If needlenose pliers work just fine, then so be it!

btw here comes that swear filter but screw I could of used that tool.

Mechi lecki hi mechi hiney ho? (I may be dating myslef with Pee-wee Herman references)

Yeah, I think basically it just applies even force across the piece and I just gave a 1-2-3 and pop..no problem...THANKFULLY!!!

ESP wrote:...did anyone notice that TWM's version of this for the Sentra comes with a specialized puller for this very purpose? Directly from their website:

"With the short shifter adapter also comes a specially designed tool to help disconnect the shifter cable from the stock pivot arm. Removing the shifter cable by hand is difficult, and prying it off with screwdrivers or a pry bar is risky for the cable. The special tool TWM has designed is simple and effective because it applies even pressure to the cable and removes it straight upward."

Someone should contact Taz from RaclingLine and suggest to him to sell a tool like that.

I have actually tried the tools and although it works I found it be some what cumbersome. Unless positioned just right the tool would slip out from under the pivot. I found using the screw driver in the position pictured a few posts back was much easier, and faster. A short 6" pickle fork from harbour fright might actually work well too.

..................a pickle fork?

AKA BALL JOINT SEPERATOR

Racingline wrote:AKA BALL JOINT SEPERATOR

fixed

dldjros69 wrote:Naaa

Quote, originally posted by GreyZone » Another good tip is to make sure you do your prying in front of the post (toward radiator) versus behind post (toward cable) in order to stay well away from the cable.

Quote, originally posted by Racingline » screwdriver is red line, arrow show direction to pry



Quote, originally posted by Racingline » it does pry of, all I'm saying is to try from the side where your hand is in the pic. Pry up from where your thumb is, well up and toward the engine. Right not you have the screw driver coming in from the front of the car. By coming at it from the front of the car, the cable itself is applying more resistance to your efforts

no, thats not what Im saying...what Im talking about, use pictured redline as screwdriver, same angle, and simply move it forward 1/2" and pry it off from that position, in front of the post (not from the front of it).

That way there is no risk of hitting the cable and breaking or bending it.