Post by
Perrenial Badass »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/perrenial-badass-u98460.html
Sun Jan 04, 2009 4:32 pm
Well, the way I redid mine was to get a DA sander and sand all the clearcoat off. You know the clearcoat is off when the dust is colored. Avoid edges and sharp curves. Then I wetsanded along the edges and curves by hand with wet or dry 220 untill the clearcoat was off.
From here, you can get a sanding block with even more 220 grit paper, and feel along the dry, clean body with your fingers. Use the sanding block to get out any uneven areas. Once this is done, you can paint. If you are painting the car something difficult like black, you will want to put some 600 on that sanding block. Wetsand the edges and sharp curves with 600 by hand, then sand the rest to match with the sandling block. Try to overlap the block area over the hand area (to reduce sanding swirls/fingermarks/that fun stuff).
If you are really anal-retentive about it, you can repeat this process with 1000 and/or 1200 grit paper.
If you strip it to the metal, you need to prime it very well so that the exposed metal won't start rusting under the paint. If you are changing paint types (say, respraying with urethane paint), then it is best to get all of the clear coat off. If you aren't taking the trim off, put the masking tape over the edges and use an X-acto knife to cut it to fit. After painting and while removing the tape, pull away from the paint and if possible, go along the edge of the tape with a knife to prevent any lift.
I'm really tired, but that's the gist of it.