s14 turbo install fun!

[NeedCAforS13]

Unfortunatly no pictures... girlfriend had the camera

but! I'll attempt a write up of how to do it, albeit with no pictures to help guide anyone interested in a cheap turbo upgrade!

required parts and stuff:-s14 turbo-z32 300zx turbo to manifold gasket (metal square shaped one)-z32 300zx turbo copper crush washers (4)-1988 Pulsar CA18DE exhaust manifold gaskets (4)-s13 compressor oulet-s13 SR20 o2 housing/turbo outlet-s13 SR20 downpipe-s13 oil drain fittings (if you have s14 fittings you're lucky, they should fit better)-s14 compressor inlet (metal bolt on part and rubber hose to connect to maf)-CA18DET oil feed line, and water lines (stockers work fine)-assorted box wrenches, open wrenches, sockets, nothing weird

total: about $500 give or take (used turbo)

Remove your stock intake, filter, and maf. Pull your hotpipe off. You can leave your p/s pump and a/c compressor on there, or remove them for more room to work. I left mine on there and it was tight to work around them.

Start by removing your downpipe from the o2 housing. Next remove the oil feed line from the 90 degree elbow on the block (14mm bolt). Leave it attached to the turbo. I pulled the compressor outlet off as well (clears up some room to get at the banjo bolt). Then remove the coolant banjo bolts (19mm) and unhook the oil return line from the oil pan bung.

Learn new contortionist positions and remove all 8 bolts holding the exhaust manifold on. Keep track of all the washers, I don't know where you would find a thick washer like that if you were to loose one. Next remove the exhaust manifold, turbo, o2 housing, and oil lines as one unit, it should all come out the top with plenty of room to spare.

With the turbo assy. on the ground remove the turbo from the manifold (those factory folding turbo nut holders are pretty sweet IMO), and the o2 housing from the turbo (13mm bolts). Pull the oil feel line off (10mm) and remove the oil return flange (12mm bolts) with the hose. Next you have to modify the oil return flange (on the bottom of the turbo) because the bolt holes are improperly spaced for an s13 flange. If you have an s14 flange I think you'd be all set. Get a drill bit the same size as the hole, and slot the holes so they both move inward about 1/8 inch. With the slotted holes you should be able to bolt the s13 oil drain to the s14 turbo. I hope to find another solution to this, but I did this method and its not leaking oil... yet.

I then attached the new s14 turbo to the manifold using a new manifold to turbo gasket. It doesn't really matter which way you put it on, but I put it the same way the one I pulled off was facing (with the groove facing up). You have to slot one of the o2 housing holes to fit the bolt though, but its just barely off, and its easy to do. Just like slotting the oil drain flange holes. I reused my old turbo to o2 housing gasket because it was in good shape and I couldn't find a matching one at Nissan. s12 ones didn't fit, neither did z32 ones. Oh well... Oh, and I used red threadlocker on all those bolts and the factory nut holder on the turbo, hopefully nothing will rattle itself loose!

Now comes the fun part! Put your new head to manifold gaskets on and clean up the stud threads (and replace rusted or damaged studs, I had 2 that were pretty rusted, so I replace them). I originally tried to just reinstall the turbo assy. in the reverse order as pulled it apart, but this didn't work too well. The motor mount heat shield was in the way, and hitting the compressor, which didn't allow me to get the turbo down in the hole. So I pried it up, and folded it to where it was out of the way. Also, take note that the center cartridge on the s14 turbo is slightly angled, where the s13 turbo was pretty much horizontal. This means your oil and water lines are now all at different angles than before. With some careful bending you can reattach them, but there isn't alot of room in there to work with, so you might try doing this before you try reinsalling the turbo and manifold. I also left the bolts holding the manifold to the head loose, so I could jiggle the turbo assy. and get the coolant and oil lines hooked up first.

Finally go through and tighten all the manifold bolts back down (even harder than removing them!). Reattach the downpipe to the o2 housing, and put the compressor inlet and outlet back on. Put the CA maf on the SR pipe, and hook up your breather hoses. And you're done!

This whole process took me most of the day today. I started about 10am this morning and finished around dinner time. Granted, I take my time, and it was just me working on it, but plan for some set backs. Its really hard to line up all the bolts and even harder to tighten them. The manifold bolts (especially the back bottom two) are near impossible to tighten, and plan to skin your knuckles countless times. The rear coolant line is also a tremendous whore to get started, and slotting the holes is fairly time consuming.

Driving impressions: At 7 pounds (stock) it feels about as quick as my s13 SR t25g turbo did at 10. Boost hits hard, and there's some lag, but I like the lag... kind of a waaaaaaaAAAAH feeling. I'll turn up the boost once I get my safc working. All in all, this turbo is a tremendous deal, and fairly easy to install. Unlike my s13 SR turbo however it is not a "bolt on" affair, plan to do some modifying of stuff, and lots of cussing. And scraped knuckles. This turbo is pretty much identical to an s15 t28, so the install should work exactly the same way.

Questions? Comments? cuzan0 made almost 300whp with this thing One day... until then, I'm gonna try and see how much I can make on stock maf and injectors. A guy in the UK using the same tuned ECU I have made 270bhp (crank)! My last turbo dyno'd at 180whp at 8 psi (SR t25g)... I'd like to make at least 220whp next time.

Sean

[btustison]

Funny coincidence, I just swapped an S14 turbo onto my CA last night. I found the AC lines very intrusive to the whole process. The CA O2 pipe works fine (I just slotted the one hole that is off)

I did my install without removing the exhaust manifold, because I didn't have a gasket and it wasn't really too difficult. I did have to weld the right flange onto the oil drain line, and bending the water lines into the right position is trick under the car. The only other issue I came across was that you have to slide the turbo in just right for the compressor housing to clear the engine mount.

You mentioned that the center section was angled... I used a sqare and my work bench to clock the new turbo like the CA unit. Then when I was installing the engine water line the banjo fitting was hitting one of the exhaust housing bolts so i had to remove that bolt for it all to clear.

good luck tuning
Modified by btustison at 11:36 PM 7/28/2005

[8ggalant]

YOU ARE THE MAN>....i was planning on doin this w/ out a write up buy now i have a reference.....how does it feel??

[Silvia_Drift]

Thanks for the writeup man. I am going to be doing the same thing with the CA turbo extention and downpipe. I have everything except the rubber hose that connects to the turbo inlet that goes to the MAFS. I just wanted to know if I could just go to Home depot and get a rubber hose and a coupler or something? Or where else could I buy one? Thanks.

[NeedCAforS13]

I would find a silicone one. I used a rubber on on my old turbo for awhile and it melted... you can find silicone hoses on ebay or sometime at local truck (semi) shops. There's a place called Amazon Hose here in Orlando that makes all sorts of custom hoses and fittings.

It feels really good, but I still have half a tank of 87 octane bs (from that old thread awhile back) so I'm not turning up the boost quite yet

Sean

[NeedCAforS13]

I found the AC lines very intrusive to the whole process.

haha I forgot to mention that yes I pulled my AC low pressure line off too! What are you running as far as tuning?

Sean

[JDMSIL80]

Really appreciate your write up! Now I know whats parts exactly I need and what to expect during installation. Im comfortable to make the purchases.

THanks!

[btustison]

haha I forgot to mention that yes I pulled my AC low pressure line off too! What are you running as far as tuning?

Sean

Not much yet, ARC sidemount, & exhaust. I am leaving the boost at 7psi untill I get a wideband on it (I welded my bung in while I had the exhaust off for this). I got a good deal on the turbo from my dad who decided against a turbo Miata. I will probably throw a power fc and some 450s at it. before the end of the year.

[F3600]

good write up .. im installing my t28 turbo this weekend and i will be using a stage 3 chip by Jez horsam form the Uk.. it should be fun Im taking out my engine for the install, i need to clean and paint my engine bay, install my 6 puck clutch etc...

[NeedCAforS13]

i will be using a stage 3 chip by Jez horsam form the Uk...

I'm using his stage 2 chip Good stuff!

Sean

[Silvia_Drift]

Hey, I'm working on my ca install and right now I'm at the turbo install part. I am trying to install the T28 ball bearing turbo to the stock manifold and am having huge clearance issues. The compressor housing will not clear the manifold. Can I grind down the compressor and manifold or something to make it work?

[float_6969]

Is it an S14 turbo? I've not heard about anybody having clearance issuse. Have you tried clocking the compressor housing?

[Silvia_Drift]

Is it an S14 turbo? I've not heard about anybody having clearance issuse. Have you tried clocking the compressor housing?

I know that it is a T28 ball bearing turbo from a SR20DET but I'm not sure if its the S14 or S15 turbo. I thought that they were both the same physical size? And what do you mean by clocking the compressor housing? Anyways, I will take pics tomorrow and post them up.

[slownslurious]

why did you upgrade turbos before you had reached anywhere close to the maximum capacity of the one you had before?I mean 8 psi on an S13 T25 still leaves quite a bit of headroom, especially when you still have the stock mafs and injectors.Just curious, I just bought an S13 T25 and I'm also upgrading the intercooler, injectors, ecu, and mafs because from what I've read I won't be able to come close to maxing out the turbo's capabilities without them.

[Silvia_Drift]

why did you upgrade turbos before you had reached anywhere close to the maximum capacity of the one you had before?I mean 8 psi on an S13 T25 still leaves quite a bit of headroom, especially when you still have the stock mafs and injectors.Just curious, I just bought an S13 T25 and I'm also upgrading the intercooler, injectors, ecu, and mafs because from what I've read I won't be able to come close to maxing out the turbo's capabilities without them.

Well my motor didn't come with a turbo lol. I got a good deal on this one so I bought it.

[slownslurious]

I was referring to needCA for s13, since he said he upgraded.

Also- I ordered my turbo to 02 housing gasket from spl parts, its oem nissan, metal crush type, very awesome and it fits the T25. If you want to try and get it from nissan, the part number on mine is "Gasket- Turbo CH; 14445-75F10"Part number on the manifold to turbo gasket is "Gasket T/C IN; 14415-17M00"If that helps anyway. I just got mine from SPL since I needed some other things anyway.

[NeedCAforS13]

I knew the s13 turbo wasn't going to meet my HP goals, and I got a good deal on an s14 turbo. I was driving the t25 on 10psi daily and it felt really good, but the t28 on 10psi feels f'in amazing!

Sean

[Silvia_Drift]

Here are pics of my turbo. Is this a S14 T28 turbo?

[mikehutch711]

looks to be a s14 or s15 turbo.

[c-rad]

the way that turbo outlet angles leads me to believe its a GTiR T28.

[NeedCAforS13]

yep, fwd turbo of some sort. I would say GTiR as well.

Sean

[mikehutch711]

GTiR turbo is 80 A/R i believe, s14/s15 turbo is 60That turbo is a 60

[NeedCAforS13]

that doesn't look like my s14 wastegate. And the inlet on the floor behind it, looks like an s13 inlet, not an s14 one.

Sean

[F3600]

I just finished installing my S14 turbo. If it come from someone with a s13 sr20det.. youll need to clock it a litlle because mine was not going to fit bolt-on.. the housing was touching the manifold. My oil and coolant lines were not at the right spot soo it was a a real pain bending them to fit but i managed to get it right...

Here some pic
Modified by F3600 at 7:41 PM 7/31/2005

[float_6969]

I always forget how small the Stock CA T25 is till I see a pick like that...

[Silvia_Drift]

I just finished installing my S14 turbo. If it come from someone with a s13 sr20det.. youll need to clock it a litlle because mine was not going to fit bolt-on.. the housing was touching the manifold. My oil and coolant lines were not at the right spot soo it was a a real pain bending them to fit but i managed to get it right...

Modified by F3600 at 7:41 PM 7/31/2005

What do you mean by clocking the housing? My compressor housing is also touching the manifold. Oh well, I stripped one of the studs on the part where the turbo connects and I can't get the bolt off. I'm probably gonna get a new manifold. Anyone have a stock one for really cheap? I might end up buying the SSAutochrome one.

[F3600]

theres a c clip between the 2 part of the turbo .. you need to lose it and have someone gently tap the turbo.

[NeedCAforS13]

my s14 turbo fit with no clocking... my s13 SR turbo did have to be clocked (As did my friend's when we installed his)

Sean

[Dattebayo]

Hey, I got an extra stock manifold. Its damn heavy though so I dont knowwhat shipping would be for it to you. How about you write up an e-mailand send it off to me. We'll see!

[email protected]

Thanks!

[slownslurious]

yeah I got one too, but you'd be better off just replacing the stud rather than replacing the whole manifold. Studs are like $.90 at autozone