Spiffy240 wrote:I only have on question, I do have and want to keep my air conditioning and emissions controls for it is a daily and is there any advice to add to this already amazing thread about removal of the ka with the A/C and emissions controls or it simply just a couple more electronic clip disconnections.

For the A/C, you'll have to disconnect the line going to the condenser and be careful not to rupture the big A/C line or you'll vent the freon to the atmosphere...we found that out the hardway on a swap one time. For the emissions you have to disconnect a number of lines from the engine but again not quite sure how many. Someone knows so chime in on this.

ca-jon23 wrote:Freakin awesome write-up, I've helped my friend pull 2 KA's and his SR 3 times over the past couple of the years and I still learned a bit with this, I just wanted to know if you had a write up on the digital climate control. I haven't seen too many people get that working right.

I don't personally have a write-up on the climate control install but I did use this one to install mine...Silvia Digital Climate control Instructions zerothread?id=94307

great write up!

you don't have to open up the clutch line or the power steering system. just set it aside.

Yea I was just going to post that.

On the slave cylinder I just take the 2 14mms off and tie it to the car, then theres no clutch bleeding if you don't have the time for it.

And the PS pump I remove and tie to the core support in the battery tray area, that way theres no fluid to spill or replace.

Its a good idea to swap out these fluids when your swapping though but if your just putting the same engine or same type it'll save time later.

You also dont need to drain the engine oil in the car, depending on what your doing it can make it easier or just a wash either way. No biggie really.

Any way very nice writeup, props for taking the time to do it.

~Alex

edit- another thing I do is loop the fuel lines. I put the return rubber line on the outlet of the fuel filter, and the rubber line that goes from the fuel filter to the fuel rail gets connected at both ends to the fuel rail. It minimizes fuel leakage and smell and prevents dirt from getting in there.

I will be doing this next week. I was leaning towards taking it out the bottom. I just don't like dealing with hood removal and alignment. Anyone know how hard that would be as compared to lifting the engine out the top.

Hmmm! No response yet. Has anyone removed an engine out the bottom? I have to do this in the next couple of days, so let me know if it's easier to yank her out the top. I prefer the bottom if it doesn't involve a lot more work.

ThanksRick

Out the Bottom: If you have a car lift...Out the Top: If it is on jack stands...

Good answer. Short and simple. I can go either way. So, is out the bottom easier?

I think out the tops easier but that's just my two cents.

Out the top it is. I'll be starting with the hood removal tomorrow. Thanks for your 2 cents.

Rick

this is SUPERB!!

I will be excited to see you put the motor back in.

are you freggin kiddin me? this is great! this whole time i was trying to pull the bolts off of the yoke itself. ahhhhhhh!

with this thread now i know exactly where to pull the driveshaft.

all those battle wounds for nuffin

yotik wrote:are you freggin kiddin me? this is great! this whole time i was trying to pull the bolts off of the yoke itself. ahhhhhhh!

with this thread now i know exactly where to pull the driveshaft.

all those battle wounds for nuffin

doesnt it feel good searching?

great write up man. 10 thumbs up!! haha.

i got a question though, since i also am learning about the 240, i am a little affraid that if i pull the wiring harness out, ill forget how to put it back in and/or connect the connectors to the right places?

should i label them as i disconnect them? or what?

s13_dk32506 wrote:great write up man. 10 thumbs up!! haha.

i got a question though, since i also am learning about the 240, i am a little affraid that if i pull the wiring harness out, ill forget how to put it back in and/or connect the connectors to the right places?

should i label them as i disconnect them? or what?

yes its best to label them so you wont forget what goes to whati didnt label mine because im gonna look at this when i install my motor again

240sxvaj wrote:
yes its best to label them so you wont forget what goes to whati didnt label mine because im gonna look at this when i install my motor again

if you suck at wiring and doing a swap send the wiring harness to carl and let him figure it out.

i labeled my ka when taking it out, then later i sent the harness to carl and he fixed it to be a plug and play harness.

Label them if you are unsure about reconnection.

thanks guys. oh, where do you get the 240 car avatars? those cartoon things look kickass.

240sxvaj wrote:
doesnt it feel good searching?

ahhhhhhhhhh eeeeyesss.....

Awesome write-up and i'm with you on pulling the enigine from the top. When you drop the engine frame with it is when you drop threw the bottom

s13_dk32506 wrote:thanks guys. oh, where do you get the 240 car avatars? those cartoon things look kickass.

TopEnd Motorsports is where I got mine...I think!

s13_dk32506 wrote:thanks guys. oh, where do you get the 240 car avatars? those cartoon things look kickass.

Blam!

http://www.50mb.net/~hiroko/drift/sozainissan.htm

http://forums.beyond.ca/showth...30688

Hey that was an excellent write up, and thanks it helped me out a lot!

SteveoS13 wrote:Hey that was an excellent write up, and thanks it helped me out a lot!

Cool man!

Where can I get some of that new gatorade

hey man good write up. although, i have an automatic. theres nothing really different about the pull though. i dont have pics so just bare with me.

when your under the car draining the transmission fluid, the plug is on a gear assembly on the bottom of the transmission. just use a socket for that(not sure what type cuz im way past that point).

when your removing the shifter, after you take the faceplate off like said in the write up, there are about 8 screws that you need to remove. on the actual shifter there are two screws to unscrew which partially removes it. Along with three plugs. two of the harder plugs to disconnect are on the left hand side of the shifter assembly. the third plug i believe has a screw on it that you can remove. Then once you get the whole shifter assembly ready to disconnect, there is a lever that has a cotter pin that you can pry off(you can damage it cuz you can go get another one real cheap).

thats pretty much it for the differences.

for me, the removal is going great. i hit a few snags along the way though. the only thing i need to do to get the engine out now is remove the driveshaft and the engine mount bolts/nuts. im thinking about just getting my dad to cut off the bolt heads and just get new driveshaft bolts.

once again man, good write up. its been my guide the whole way through.

Why would you cut the bolt heads off? There really is no point unless you cant get them to budge. But wouldnt that cause you a bigger problem, the bolts will still be stuck in there and you need a way to get them out.

If it is stuck try using something like PB Blaster, use a breaker bar, or use a torch and heat that bish up

well, im tellling you the driveshaft bolts wont budge AT ALL. me and my friend tried it for about 3 hours, ON JUST ONE! a friend already recommended PB blaster but wont that just make the wrench slip off?

another thing, positron. you forgot to mention how to get the exhaust off, along with a few other hoses around the bottom right of the engine, and behind the back of the engine around the firewall. if you could give us another write up with pics for that, i could get my engine off and out.

s13_dk32506 wrote:another thing, positron. you forgot to mention how to get the exhaust off, along with a few other hoses around the bottom right of the engine, and behind the back of the engine around the firewall. if you could give us another write up with pics for that, i could get my engine off and out.

My exhaust bolts wouldnt budge either. (what a pain)I had to use a loooooooong 3/8 extension and a 3/8 drive ratchet with an extended handle (basically a breaker bar). If the rust is not allowing it to move try pouring some coca cola on it to break it up.

Thanks yotik, but I'm gunna have to have a better description as to where and how to remove the exhaust bolts. Along with those hoses I mentioned(I think one is the heater hose, I'm not sure). I'm new to the whole engine removal thing, but I do have to say that I'm doing a pretty good job. My 240 after all is my first car and I've only had it for about a month and 1/2.

s13_dk32506 wrote:well, im tellling you the driveshaft bolts wont budge AT ALL. me and my friend tried it for about 3 hours, ON JUST ONE! a friend already recommended PB blaster but wont that just make the wrench slip off?

another thing, positron. you forgot to mention how to get the exhaust off, along with a few other hoses around the bottom right of the engine, and behind the back of the engine around the firewall. if you could give us another write up with pics for that, i could get my engine off and out.

For the exhaust just unbolt the header from the catalytic converter.