A rainy good evening 320 fans,
Rough week for Whitey - dismantling the front end issues, parts replacements issues, and the smell, oh the smell.
So here we go with the disassembly of Whitey's left side/driver side -
As you can see everything is all dried up, caked in a mixture of dirt, grease, manure, and a little rusty.
After whacking away on the front drum a few times with the 2lbs sledge and oversized screw driver, I resorted to removing the hub with the puller.
This was the start of the headaches for the day. I could not loosen the brake adjuster and as a result there was a loud pop when everything came loose. The brake adjuster back slide tab broke into two piece and since this is white metal (or pot metal like your Tootsie Toys) it can't be fixed or repaired - okay you can use JB-Weld/cold weld but it will not hold under stress. So you can write of the front brake adjuster. So with the pop everything came apart and went into the baggies and the box marked Left Side/Driver Side
to be clean up at a later date for the next project.
Brake shoes are also trash as after 50 years they are cracked, glazed over, and worn down a little to much to work effectively - even new/rebuilt 320 brakes are not that great so if you have not looked at your brake shoes since you have had your 320, might reserve and set aside some time on a weekend a take a look -
So with the drum, brakes shoes, busted brake adjuster and springs all removed it was time to remove the back plate.
Pretty simple to remove, clean up and paint. Just bend back the locking tabs and use your 9/16 socket to remove the bolts. The top two have a nut on the backside - 9/16.
the front wheel cylinder is still stuck in place. I highly recommend that if you need to remove the wheel cylinder that you remove it with the back plate. The w/c are a pain in the butt to remove in the first place, somewhat fragile, and expensive to replace if you can find them. So please, just remove them as a unit, move to your work bench and use the appropriate tools to press the w/c out of the back plate. Its a lot easier on your back, knuckles, and wallet.
So at about this time the wife sticks her head out in the garage -
, My love, why does it smell like cows out here?
Shut the door and go back in the house, my love.
As you can see from the back side there is plenty of dirt, manure, grease and oil coating the steering knuckle, lower control arm and tie rod.
You can see the smashed and disintegrating bushing on the sway bar link and the upper A-Arm bushings and what's left of the rebound stops - they just fell off once I removed the upper A-Arm. The A-Arm bushing's metal bearings were, or rather still are, seized to the bolt, while the rubber bushing just fell out on the garage floor.
On a positive note all the nuts and bolts came off with little to no problems, no cheater pipe or groaning gorilla sounds to take everything apart. And I will clean up the shock absorber and mount it as you cannot get any more original than this -
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3850/142 ... d6e385.jpg
When removing the tie rod ball joint from the lower steering knuckle arm I highly recommend a ball joint splitter like the one pictured over the ball joint forks you pound on with a sledge hammer.
Here's a picture of the left side tension rod - again not good and in need of attention.
Repaired, worn, missing a bushing up front and another in the back, and bent out of shape. I couldn't believe the nuts came off so easily. Now to find a machine shop to make me a couple of these.
Moving to the removal of the torsion bar was a little confusing at first as there is constant tension just like a coil spring. So treat it like a coil spring! Use your jack and place it under the steering knuckle/arm and raise about 1-2 inches. Now the pressure is on the jack and you are good to remove the upper A-Arm assembly. Be sure to keep track of the shims, if any, and mark them for the front or back bolt. This is important for proper suspension/steering geometry and wheel alignment. Once the upper A-Arm is unbolted from the mount and the bolt and bushings removed from the upper steering/axle stub release the pressure from the jack. As the jack goes down the torsion bar will follow until there is no more tension / "twist" in the torsion bar.
You have three nut/bolts to remove up front on the lower control arm. One is the big 3/4 bolt holding on the lower control arm to the sub-frame and the two bolts holding the torque arm in place. There is also one last bolt to remove and that's the torsion bar adjusting bolt. At this time the torsion bar assembly is ready to be removed, but do not forget to score the torsion bar and torque arm for proper alignment when re-assembling later.
Also I would recommend leaving the torsion bar complete with the rear adjuster in place - pretty sure this requires a machine shop and a press to remove.
Make sure you look at the torsion bar adjusting bolt as years of rust might have ruined the threads. Yip, mine where rusted up and tore up the adjusting threads when I removed the bolt out the bottom of the frame mount for the torsion bars. This ultimately lead to a day delay in that I had to clean up the torsion bar assembly for Whitey to put right back on.
Well that's about it for the disassembly, I'll read through this one more time to make sure I haven't forgotten anything or failed to add any tricks here or there during the disassembly process.
Let me know if you have any question! In the mean time, I'll run through this post one more time and figure out how to re-assemble the front suspension and torsion bar to get it close to where we started from height wise. I've got a pretty good idea as the Factory 320 Manual was a little lacking in explaining the re-assembly procedures.