Okay 320 fans,
After two days of frustration, 5 trips to see the helpful hardware man, and Fastenal twice, the Nikki 2D-30C, intake and exhaust system is all bolted together and ready to be bolted back on.
So for you to avoid the frustration and multiple trips to the parts store or hardware store for screws that do not exist, let's start from the beginning, literally.
Okay, so in the beginning when Nissan made cars for the US market, at least, one of their sale pitches was the little Datsuns' nuts and bolts were SAE. That is a fact, but somewhat stretching the truth as the screws, flat, Phillips, pan, or what ever else were and are metric! Yes, METRIC, thank-you Napoleon Bonapar-ty and Datsun-Man. So fast forward to yesterday and today as I made trip after trip trying to run down the metric screws for the Nikki Carburetor - and not just any run of the mill metric screw, that would be too easy.
Okay so by the numbers -
1. You will not find this one! The closest you can get is an M5 @.8 pitch or a 12/24 SAE screw. Neither one works properly. The M5 will go in and then start to bind and make its own thread. The 12/24 is loose, will tighten up with a lock washer, but will pull out if torqued too much. So what is the exact / correct screw? Sorry don't know at this time. M5 with a 1.25 pitch, maybe, but were to get it? Bottom line don't loose your screws! If you have your own tap and die set, then yes, by all means, re-thread these top holes in to a more common size. BUT only if you are better than average machinist, or have a professional do it for you. If you have all four original flat tip, pan head screws, then nothing to worry about, just do not loose them.
2. This one is simple enough. Its a M7 @ 1 pitch. The original M7 has a 0mm hex head, I just double checked, with a flat tip screw driver head. This is for two reason. Your original Datsun dealer was an American SAE car dealer first and you really do not need to torque these screw down any tighter, so no 10mm wrench and leverage.
3. These four nuts are 5/16th in at 24 and common enough at your local hardware store @ $1.09 ea.
4. Last ones, all four are SAE 1/4 at 24 and should be in the same container at the hardware store @ $.33 each.
So I was missing one top/#1 screw in the pic as well as the 3 M7 lock washers, the "Link Pump" that connect the accelerator arm, pump to the accelerator pump.
So, again, after numerous trips all over town the exhaust and intake assembly is complete.
Here are a few more item to look out for when rebuilding or cleaning up your Nikki carburetor -
Since rebuild kits are few and far between, though one in on eBay from DownUnder, you might have to make your own. So here is a pic of my preferred tools -
The straight and curved tip manicure scissor are "money" and I highly recommend both for cutting out your own gaskets! The rest you know - scissors, box cutter razors, a glove, felt tip pen, assorted drill bits and hole punch to make holes, and a good, never been touched cutting surface...don't tear up the counter top.
Over the years the float bowl will more than likely leaked, we all know this. But some people are lazy or in an emergency situation and will simply tighten all the screws up instead of replacing the gaskets. So this is what happens -
You can bend this back into shape a little, but be very careful. This is white metal/tootsie toy metal/pot metal, it can and will easily crack on you. I bent mine back into place using a crescent wrench. Simply place the wrench over the screw mounting hole and apply steady/firm pressure. Repeat on all four side. You will not get it perfect, but that's okay. All you need is a little as it will bend again when you place the float bowl glass and metal retaining ring back on. But this will help seal up the glass and the inner rubber o-ring.
Well that's about it. Watch the top four screws that secure the accelerator and choke cable to the throttle body assembly and be very careful bending the float bowl casing back into place.
And one final look -
More to follow tomorrow night's posting! I have managed to accomplish a few more tasks in putting the engine and transmission back together.