Running on a Budget - '63 PL-320

[Li'l Truckie]

Atabale,

At this time I am not worried too much about this 320. I have another 320, Li'l Red, that I am going to restore this Fall. Additionally, I need to get this one tagged and a new state title issued. And the only way this is going to happen is if I get this 320 running...safely. So I thought I would share the experience, information, parts lists, and cost.

Oh yeah, and my body guy is working on my brother '55 AH 100 so I'm in line.

v/r
Andy

[Li'l Truckie]

Well, don't know what's happening around here. The weather has been crazy lately, but we have still managed to make some progress and stay on our timeline.



As you can see more cleaning, scrubbing, rubbing, wiping, and painting. So here is the quick run down of what's been accomplished and what we still have to due to complete the engine and transmission this upcoming weekend.

- The Nikki 2C-30D Carburetor is all cleaned up - inside and outside. Just need to make a new set of gaskets and bolt it all back together with the newest and finest brass screws and washers.
-Linkage has been cleaned up and painted. Just need to clean up the steering column, paint, and then re-install the linkage.
-Exhaust manifold and intake manifold painted and ready to go. Need to find a small stud for the air-cleaner bracket. All new washers, manifold gasket, and brass nuts are standing by.
-Distributor has been disassembled, cleaned up and painted. The Assembly, Braker, has been rubbed down with denatured alcohol and is ready for assembly. Order from Thailand with rotors arrived today, so the distributor will get all new points, condenser, cap (maybe), ground wire, spark plug wires, and of course a new rotor.
-Brake and Clutch M/C and Slave cylinder have all been clean up on the wire wheel, but still need to be disassembled, honed, and rebuilt. However, we will wait until we are ready for the brakes before we install the rebuild kits.

Have class tomorrow night so I will be happy if I can get the gasket cut out and the carburetor put back together before I have to get ready to go.

Take care,

Li'l Truckie

[AZhitman]

So much win in this thread.

You have no idea how helpful this is going to be when I start on the restoration of my NL320.

[Conner]

What are the details on the dizzy rotors you got??? Inquiring minds want to know.

Also, there is a gasket in between the intake and exhaust manifolds that is a hot spot gasket. I'm no expert but I don't know if you can just use regular gasket stock for that one or if it needs to be metal. I looked everywhere to find one and Nissan doesn't have them but I got one as part of a J13 full engine gasket set. That set also had new carburetor isolators and some other useful parts. If you'd like the part number I will look it up and post it for you. Let me know.

[Li'l Truckie]

Conner,

I purchased the rotors on eBay from a reliable vendor from Thailand. This it my tenth or so order and never any issues, never.

The insulator gasket between the exhaust and manifold. Yeah, this is a tricky one. Out of the 3 or 4 engine gasket sets I've ordered, only one has had the correct gasket. All others have a slightly bigger gasket for the J13. Making one is a little tough and might take several attempts.
The hard part is making the holes for the studs. A paper hole punch will not work, so you have to use a drill or drill press. Key is to trace your outline of the gasket and then place the rough blank on a piece of wood. But you also need to put a piece of wood over the top to keep the exhaust gasket material from twisting all up. For this I have a 3/8 piece of oak with a larger hole in it. So the gasket material is sandwiched between the two pieces of wood. Simply center the hole in the top piece of wood over where the gasket hole is marked and then drill nice and slowly. You will have to rearrange the wood for each hole.
So that's how I do it. Once all four stud holes are drilled I cut out the inside and then the outside of the gasket.

I have an insulator in the original bag. Though the insulator has a single big oval and not the two small holes. But yes, please post the part number. I'm sure some one could use it and I'll find mine...somewhere.

Andy

[Conner]

The head gasket set for the J13 is Victor Reinz #HS3597. It includes a bunch of gaskets. That set includes a head gasket, valve cover, thermostat gaskets, carb insulator, water pump, water outlet, inspection covers, and intake/exhaust manifold gaskets including the hot spot gasket. These are for a J13 but I confirmed that some of them that I needed were identical to the ones coming off my E1 set-up.

The hot spot gasket was, to my eye, identical to my old E1 one.

Pic of new one on top of old one:


It fit the intake manifold very well.


And the exhaust manifold studs. You can see it is thicker than a standard gasket:

[Li'l Truckie]

Obviously a perfect fit, that's good. I'm reluctant to use my last factory made gasket, so I'll toil and make my own.

Thanks for the part number....I've got to get the parts thread started.

Nice pics....for a moment I thought those were mine

Andy

[AZhitman]

You guys are KILLING it!

I'm sitting here bouncing in my chair... This is fantastic.

[Li'l Truckie]

Conner,

I notice too you have the induction collars on the intake manifold. Mine did not have those when I removed the manifolds.....hmm. I think I have a set somewhere. I also checked the schematics in the VB catalogs, no MG has these collars on the SU.

So I'll dig around a little this morning, otherwise I'll put it back together without the collars.

thanks
Andy

[Li'l Truckie]

AZHitman,

So when are you starting on your NL? Its only going to get hotter, now is the perfect time.

Also, if you are looking for any OE parts let me know and I see what I have. I did check my one '65's radio and no "Datsun".

Li'l Truckie

[Conner]

Conner,

I notice too you have the induction collars on the intake manifold. Mine did not have those when I removed the manifolds.....hmm. I think I have a set somewhere. I also checked the schematics in the VB catalogs, no MG has these collars on the SU.

So I'll dig around a little this morning, otherwise I'll put it back together without the collars.

thanks
Andy

I'm not sure what you mean by induction collars but I have more pics of the intake if you'd like to see another angle. Maybe post a pic of how yours is different so understand what mean.

[Li'l Truckie]

Conner,

The induction ring is the circular looking bearing that is in the intake manifold. This mates with the head to help with fuel/air flow into the head.

I dug through my crate-o-parts and three plastic containers and did not find them. Found a lot of other useful items for Whitey, but no induction rings. I know I've seen them somewhere and as soon as I put the exhaust/intake on, I know I will come across them.

I'll post a pic tonight of the collar with part number. Very nice day, so heading out to get to work.

Andy

[Conner]

I know what you are talking about now. I noticed those rings on the intake and didn't realize their purpose. Thanks for the info.

[Li'l Truckie]

No problem. I found my pair....in a bag-o-nuts, bolts, and other stuff. Here's a better pic -



You'd think with a high performance part name like "induction color" this part would give you an extra 8-10hp....but it doesn't

[Li'l Truckie]

Okay 320 fans,

After two days of frustration, 5 trips to see the helpful hardware man, and Fastenal twice, the Nikki 2D-30C, intake and exhaust system is all bolted together and ready to be bolted back on.

So for you to avoid the frustration and multiple trips to the parts store or hardware store for screws that do not exist, let's start from the beginning, literally.

Okay, so in the beginning when Nissan made cars for the US market, at least, one of their sale pitches was the little Datsuns' nuts and bolts were SAE. That is a fact, but somewhat stretching the truth as the screws, flat, Phillips, pan, or what ever else were and are metric! Yes, METRIC, thank-you Napoleon Bonapar-ty and Datsun-Man. So fast forward to yesterday and today as I made trip after trip trying to run down the metric screws for the Nikki Carburetor - and not just any run of the mill metric screw, that would be too easy.

Okay so by the numbers -

1. You will not find this one! The closest you can get is an M5 @.8 pitch or a 12/24 SAE screw. Neither one works properly. The M5 will go in and then start to bind and make its own thread. The 12/24 is loose, will tighten up with a lock washer, but will pull out if torqued too much. So what is the exact / correct screw? Sorry don't know at this time. M5 with a 1.25 pitch, maybe, but were to get it? Bottom line don't loose your screws! If you have your own tap and die set, then yes, by all means, re-thread these top holes in to a more common size. BUT only if you are better than average machinist, or have a professional do it for you. If you have all four original flat tip, pan head screws, then nothing to worry about, just do not loose them.

2. This one is simple enough. Its a M7 @ 1 pitch. The original M7 has a 0mm hex head, I just double checked, with a flat tip screw driver head. This is for two reason. Your original Datsun dealer was an American SAE car dealer first and you really do not need to torque these screw down any tighter, so no 10mm wrench and leverage.

3. These four nuts are 5/16th in at 24 and common enough at your local hardware store @ $1.09 ea.

4. Last ones, all four are SAE 1/4 at 24 and should be in the same container at the hardware store @ $.33 each.



So I was missing one top/#1 screw in the pic as well as the 3 M7 lock washers, the "Link Pump" that connect the accelerator arm, pump to the accelerator pump.

So, again, after numerous trips all over town the exhaust and intake assembly is complete.

Here are a few more item to look out for when rebuilding or cleaning up your Nikki carburetor -

Since rebuild kits are few and far between, though one in on eBay from DownUnder, you might have to make your own. So here is a pic of my preferred tools -

The straight and curved tip manicure scissor are "money" and I highly recommend both for cutting out your own gaskets! The rest you know - scissors, box cutter razors, a glove, felt tip pen, assorted drill bits and hole punch to make holes, and a good, never been touched cutting surface...don't tear up the counter top.

Over the years the float bowl will more than likely leaked, we all know this. But some people are lazy or in an emergency situation and will simply tighten all the screws up instead of replacing the gaskets. So this is what happens -

You can bend this back into shape a little, but be very careful. This is white metal/tootsie toy metal/pot metal, it can and will easily crack on you. I bent mine back into place using a crescent wrench. Simply place the wrench over the screw mounting hole and apply steady/firm pressure. Repeat on all four side. You will not get it perfect, but that's okay. All you need is a little as it will bend again when you place the float bowl glass and metal retaining ring back on. But this will help seal up the glass and the inner rubber o-ring.

Well that's about it. Watch the top four screws that secure the accelerator and choke cable to the throttle body assembly and be very careful bending the float bowl casing back into place.

And one final look -


More to follow tomorrow night's posting! I have managed to accomplish a few more tasks in putting the engine and transmission back together.

cheers,
Li'l Truckie

[AZhitman]

AZHitman,

So when are you starting on your NL? Its only going to get hotter, now is the perfect time.

Got about 12 projects in front of it.... Realistically, it'll probably have to wait until we get in our new HQ (having a big shop built).

[Li'l Truckie]

Number of Projects....I'm afraid to count how many I think I have and how much storage is costing over the years.

[Li'l Truckie]

Okay, busy weekend...even managed to trim the hedge and dig up a few dead/dying shrubs ...wife loves me.

More importantly I managed to put the engine back together...pics later. But first had to clean up the distributor, don't know if I would call it a rebuild.

So after an initial cleaning I took a few pics for reference before I tore the distributor down

From left to right-
nut, ground lead to the assembly-terminal, insulator, Braker Assembly tab, insulator, points tab, ground lead to assembly-terminal (with wire), condenser, bolt head. Note that not one of these items touches/grounds to the Braker Assembly. The bolt screws into a urethane o-ring pressed into the Braker Assembly tab.

Once everything is removed, points, condenser, distributor retaining spring snaps, and vacuum the Braker Assembly simply falls out.



After a quick cleaning, wipe down, and factory looking paint job its time for re-assembly with all new points, condenser, and rotor.

Factory point gap range is from .45mm to .55mm, I split this down the middle at .50mm

I went ahead and replaced the distributor cap with one I already had, cut the plug wire to a more manageable length and installed!


Quite a big difference from 4 weeks ago! Oil pressure light switch, temperature sender switch, thermostat and thermostat housing all installed. Just need a little touch up paint on the bare nuts, studs, and bolts.

Over on the left side, finally installed the exhaust/intake assembly. Just a quick note...make sure the you have attached the Union Banjo to the carburetor float bowl housing as once the exhaust/intake assembly is bolted back on the only way to screw this on is to either remove the assembly all over again or remove the valve cover.....I removed the valve cover.



Well that's it for the re-assembly piece over the past weekend. Next, I removed the removed the butchered/spliced/chopped/taped up front wiring harness. Unfortunately there is still some screwed up wiring on the main wiring harness. Ugh.....to replace or leave alone???? Also removed the fuse box for cleaning and then scrubbed down the corner.


That's about it for the weekend update. Will work on the wiring harness from the '62 parts 320 , fuse box, take stock of front/rear brake parts and rebuild kits over the next few days, and touch up a few places with paint.

Let me know if you have any detailed questions that I may not have covered or glossed over.

And as always here the link to the growing photo album on flickr-
https://www.flickr.com/photos/113742723 ... 678451005/

cheers,
Li'l Truckie

[Gemmer]

As I'm just getting started, impressed with how clean you are getting everything. I have to ask. What are you using to get all of the gunk off?

[Li'l Truckie]

Gemmer,

Initially, just a nice flexible and thin steel paint scraper and an assortment of wire brushes. Followed by solvent wipe down with rag, sash brush, or small wire brush, let dry. I'll then use a Grease Lightning and Dawn mixture and green scratchy pad to clean all over again. Wire brush, hand or drill, if and as needed. Disassemble/remove any part/piece/item that is too difficult to clean. Clean specific part all over again, usually clean it up on the wire wheel. Final wipe down is with lacquer thinner and denatured alcohol. Denatured alcohol is a must to remove all oil and fine particle residue.

I try not to use brake cleaner or carb/choke cleaner as this can get expensive real quick.

For the fuse box area I used Grease Lighting mixed with Dawn and a green scratchy pad.

Big thick chemical rubber gloves, eye pro, and apron are a must.

Oh, and if I know I'll be cleaning a lot, I'll skip lifting weights in the morning, but usually not.

Li'l Truckie

[Gemmer]

In your post about the carb, you were trying to identify the screw you marked as #1. I went out and pulled the one in my stock Nikki 2D-30C and checked it with a screw and pitch gauge. I am almost certain it is a 10-28 (3/16 --28 thread). If so, it may be a challenge to find. Hardware for aircraft may be a source.
P.S. Did check metric size with no match.

[Li'l Truckie]

Thanks Gemmer, I'll give it a try. Heading out to pick up some parts for the generator, check on the shocks, and cross reference a few part numbers for brake rebuild kits.

Have class tonight. Let me know if you would like me to check/cross-reference/verify compatibility on any parts from VB. I need to pick up the "adjust pillar" and nut for the generator bar, adjusting.

Andy

[Li'l Truckie]

Okay Gemmer,

So where do you find a 10-28 nut/bolt? No luck at the hardware store and Fastenal did not have a listing in their catalog for this size thread. This is also the same size nut/bolt for the generator post.

will keep looking,
Andy

[Gemmer]

I've looked everywhere I could think of for 10-28 nuts and bolts. No joy.
I used to show restored MG's and Jag's on the judged circuit and any deviation from original was certain death (and snickers from the other car owners). If you can live with having a few non original parts, I think if you used 12-24 SAE bolts with nuts on the carb no one other than yourself would notice. Can you substitute the same on the generator. If this is heresy, I apologize .

[Li'l Truckie]

Gemmer,

I used to show restored MG's and Jag's

Ahh, so you like to drink warm beer!? That's Lucas for you. Just wait till you see the coil I picked up at VB!

10-28 nut/bolt - I'll give the 12-24 a try. I'm hoping that by using 10-32 brass nuts that they will thread to the 10-28 pole on the generator. Last I looked steel was stronger than brass. I do have a shot generator and will thread the brass bolt and nuts on this one first then over to the generator for Whitey.

Andy

[Gemmer]

Andy,
All in all I have pleasant memory's of my British phase, however Lucas is part of the nostalgia that is bitter sweet. Talk about challenge.
I think the idea of using 10-32 brass nuts is excellent. If they don't work, all you have is a buggered nut.
Gemmer

[Li'l Truckie]

Yeah, my wife wants a MK II with two tone paint. Son wants it in RHD with 4 speed and overdrive....so I'm looking.

[difrangia]

The Datsun/British connection back in the mid-20th century is certainly entertaining to me. I've been a 'Road & Track' subscriber for 45+ years. One of the things that really stuck in my mind is that some of the British car guys refer to Lucas as 'The Prince of Darkness'.

I've always tended toward the German and Italian machinery, but the discovery of the early (in the US) Datsuns are like a middle-age infatuation with a 'sweet young thang'; only a lot safer. Especially if the little wifey is looking. lol

Steve

[Li'l Truckie]

That's why the Brits drink warm beer...Lucas Refrigerators!

I don't know about Datsuns being a lot safer, the only people who really look at my little Datsun ARE women and they actually ask a few legitimate questions about pay load, gas mileage, parts, and what's a Datsun before getting straight to the point and asking if I'm married...wow! I never got this kind of attention with my 911T or Mercedes 300 SEL 4.5 when I was going to college.

[Li'l Truckie]

So the past week was a little slow action wise, but here is a quick run down...

- Heater box, cleaned up, sanded, and repainted "New Ford Grey." Still needs another coat or two (too humid/wet to paint)
- Located the right engine mount from the '62, cleaned up, painted Nissan Blue-Green, swapped out with the one with the alternator support arm stub welded to it.
-Removed, cleaned up, and reinstalled fuse box
-Cleaned up, and repaired the wiring harness from the '62 320 parts truck, sort of got it installed (weather delay)

This was actually pretty easy. Son did the splicing and shrink wrap while I took care of the before and after of cleaning and retaping with grey electric tape (okay, light grey. I could not find the OE darker grey). Also replaced the head light connectors. Pretty simple, just insert a small jewelers screw driver and push the catch tab down and give it a tug, should come right out. So if your wiring harness has some issues, might think about getting a cheapy off of eBay or from salvage if they have anything, er Datsun, from the mid '60s to mid 70s. I used a few parts from my 510 that is no more, all the same connectors, sizes, parts and wiring colors.
-Completed the paint job on the horns and installed. Pretty sure I scratched them up again as these are pretty tough getting them down into the engine compartment, holding them in place, and getting the bolt threaded. Don't forget to put black ground wire on one of your bolts.
-Cleaned up, verified current with multimeter (okay, son did this), and reinstalled the starter solenoid. Don't loose or misplace the nuts as they are a very special size!


And later this afternoon I finally dismantled the remainder of the front suspension from the frame of the '62 320 parts truck. We are going to rebuild the front assembly of the '62 from the pics you see below to factory fresh and then 'simply' replace the assembly on Whitey. I might need some help/advice when it come to the torsion bar suspension. I took some pics for future reference, but pretty sure getting close to the factory ride height is going to be some trial and error. Not to mention this will be done under the truck and not the easy going of today with just the frame.


Now to research new parts, lower assembly trunnions, dust covers, and those wedge split pins. I have a king pins set and the upper rubber bushing on hand. So hopefully finding the few parts we need will not be like looking for a needle in a haystack...all over again.

Well that's about it for this past week. I'll try and take some pics tomorrow of the installed wiring harness and post them as its supposed to storm all week here.

cheers,
Li'l Truckie