rough idle and or dosent idle

1980-1986 Datsun 720 forums. All 720-specific topics and discussion can be found here.
kickinindian
Posts: 98
Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2010 7:38 pm
Car: 84' Nissan 720-D King Cab 4x4
Location: North Fork, Ca

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okay i know its probably just a "let it warm up" thing but recently my truck wont idle at all and when it does warm up it still runs pretty crappy (rough acceler. sluggish resistance) i have just redone a full vac. line replacment so i dont think that could be the problem so im just thinking it could maybe i should do the spark plugs wires and cap? or adjust the carb? im just kind of confused on what i could do but it runs like a dream when its really warm outside i just i would like it to be bearable in the winter months ya know?


Steveka24det
Posts: 114
Joined: Sun May 31, 2009 10:13 am
Car: 240sx 91

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umm i would look over the whole igniton setup

plugs , wires , cap , rotor, coil pack
also fuel filter is cheap too

i found out main thing that was wrong wit my pickup running sluggish was the electric choke was not working what so ever and would stall my truck at every stop sign ..... and fall on its face till i got it moving well

check the electric choke first then pull a plug from each side see where there at ... then id check the fuel filter .... start at the cheapest work your way up .... a good haynes manual would help you out 23 bucks at autozone

kickinindian
Posts: 98
Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2010 7:38 pm
Car: 84' Nissan 720-D King Cab 4x4
Location: North Fork, Ca

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how would i go about checking the choke?

Steveka24det
Posts: 114
Joined: Sun May 31, 2009 10:13 am
Car: 240sx 91

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should be a blue wire connected to the carb...

if thats fine and making good contact and clean then fine

open up the air cleaner and make sure once the car is started you will see a flap open up slowly after it warms up with out you hitting the gas ... mine was broken..... and wouldnt open when it warmed up i cant

rem what flap of the two but if u need more info i can take pictures of my old one let me know

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fastboatman29212
Posts: 493
Joined: Sun Jul 25, 2010 6:45 pm
Car: left this forum. Sold my truck.
Location: South Carolina

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Your choke flap should be almost closed when engine is cold. Then the flap will swing open as the engine warms to operating temp. With the motor off, you should be able to push the flap open and closed with your finger and feel some spring tension pulling it closed again. The choke spring is located under a factory sealed black cap (labeled choke coil cover in the photo) at the back of the carb. (My choke spring is broken, so my choke flap stays open all the time and my choke doesn't work). See photos. The 2nd photo shows a blue wire coming off the choke spring cover. That wire is what makes the choke spring move, (because it's an electric choke). Check to be sure it's still hooked up and not broken somewhere.

Image

Image

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fastboatman29212
Posts: 493
Joined: Sun Jul 25, 2010 6:45 pm
Car: left this forum. Sold my truck.
Location: South Carolina

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Also, please check out the carb pics I posted earlier.

720-carburetor-reference-pics-t521844.html

synack7350
Posts: 364
Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2011 3:08 pm
Car: nissan '83 720 king cab pickup 2wd 2.4L Z24
Location: Boaz, AL

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if you just did a full vac line swap and the problem didn't exist prior to the line swap, I'd think vac leak somewhere or somethin not hooked up right.

kickinindian
Posts: 98
Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2010 7:38 pm
Car: 84' Nissan 720-D King Cab 4x4
Location: North Fork, Ca

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it was doing this before but it hasnet been too cold until yesterday and then it was really bad but today when it was about 60ish it ran like a champ so that is why im so confused
it still does it after driving 2 hours on the freeway so it cant be a just let it warm up deal ill check the choke and the blue wire should i just use a test light or something?

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fastboatman29212
Posts: 493
Joined: Sun Jul 25, 2010 6:45 pm
Car: left this forum. Sold my truck.
Location: South Carolina

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Go about it systematically.
1. When the motor is cold, pump the gas pedal a few times. That will release the fast idle cam and allow the choke to fully close.
2. Remove the air cleaner cover. The choke flap should be in the closed position. Push down on the choke flap with your finger. It should spring back against your finger. If it does that, then you know the choke spring is GOOD.
3. Start the motor and run it until you have it at full operating temperature. Stop the motor. IF the choke flap is OPEN, then the choke is working fine and you don't need to test the BLUE wire.
4. If the choke flap is still closed, then you need to check the blue wire with a tester.

This is what the choke flap looks like when closed.

Image

This is what it looks like when open.

Image

kickinindian
Posts: 98
Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2010 7:38 pm
Car: 84' Nissan 720-D King Cab 4x4
Location: North Fork, Ca

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okay thanks for the help ill update what i did probably tommorow night after i check the choke and wire and im also going to do a tune up Splugs, wires, cap and rotor, and fuel filter

kickinindian
Posts: 98
Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2010 7:38 pm
Car: 84' Nissan 720-D King Cab 4x4
Location: North Fork, Ca

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Image
when the car is off
Image
i think it might be some diffrent carb which would suck...

on a positive note new cap, rotor, spark plugs and wires...

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MetalFab
Posts: 226
Joined: Sun Feb 28, 2010 10:02 pm
Car: 1985 720 4x4 reg cab flatbed.
Location: Northern California
Contact:

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I did a vac delete on a newer motor swap and couldn't figure out why the idle was irregular, (4-500 rpm all the way up to 3k at stoplights) and it ended up being a bad connection to the metal lines that cross under the motor, even though I replaced the rubber at both ends. Once I ran a vac line straight over the motor to the dizzy it dropped down to 900 rpm and purred, no longer misfiring, popping, backfiring, and I gained a ton of hp, not to mention mpg. It didn't however change my stalling issues. I'd putt a few miles down the driveway and then try to gun it onto the highway and the truck would fall flat on its face and not run at all until I cranked it over with the throttle wide open and it would cough/spit/stutter back to life. I tried pulling the wire to the choke but it still kept persisting until I straight up looped a piece of wire around the linkage and tied it open. Sure It doesn't start right up like it used to, takes alittle throttle play in the morning, but I've yet to stall out infront of oncoming traffic since. Hope you figure it out.

kickinindian
Posts: 98
Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2010 7:38 pm
Car: 84' Nissan 720-D King Cab 4x4
Location: North Fork, Ca

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yea metal fab thats almost exactly what is happening to me i think that its my choke tho its broken i think stupid remanufactured carb-_-

Steveka24det
Posts: 114
Joined: Sun May 31, 2009 10:13 am
Car: 240sx 91

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metalfab that sounds like your electric choke was messed up , when i plugged my webber 36 snyc it worked great and never stalls anymore ...... i started it up in December after not running it since October and it fired in one shot and i took right off wit it .....

kickinindian id like an update how the new cap plugs and wires help .....????

and that carb correct me if im wrong but looks like a manual choke carb .....

kickinindian
Posts: 98
Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2010 7:38 pm
Car: 84' Nissan 720-D King Cab 4x4
Location: North Fork, Ca

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oh yea sorry they helped it idle better purrin right at 900rpm but when i go to take off i have to floor it and it chuggs for a bit and then takes off it does that in every gear when its cold but when its warmer it dosent do anything like that and runs like a dream so i have no clue still but the ignition stuff really did help the idle :D

Steveka24det
Posts: 114
Joined: Sun May 31, 2009 10:13 am
Car: 240sx 91

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soo its probably choke .... who knows sounds like the last thing ....


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