Well Since someone painted her red, and it's faded to rose, I'm gunna call her Rosie, at least for now. I'm hoping I can figure out how to upload the pics. Started today, ran for a couple minutes just fine after swapping out the spark plugs, and putting some starting fluid in the carb. Ran the engine off of a gas can to avoid any crud in the lines or tank. Will need all the hoses, belts and gaskets replaced as it's been sitting in the desert for who knows how long. Brake lines and all hydraulics will probably need replacing as well as blasting out the tank and the fuel lines. Clutch is frozen, so lots of WD-40 will be used in getting everything to slide and move. The cables to the carb and clutch will need replacement too.

Eventually will want to put the stock wheels on and re-paint original color. I thought the crank pic I saw was a joke, but I saw not only the hole in the bumper, but the slot for crank starting the truck. Now I'll have to check and see if the old crank is behind the seat. Got to dark to play by that point of the evening.

Crank 'er up

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upF7M_xvar0

Great update! Glad it runs.

This will make your restoration go a lot easier knowing that the engine runs - that's the optimist view.

Of course from the pessimist view point, if it doesn't start up the next time you only have one person to blame.

Yip, been their, done that. I could not believe all the stuff I did wrong or forgot over 10 months time working on my '64.

I had to put on a low flow electronic fuel pump, but Rosie seems to be running fine. Engine turns over, engine runs smooth; all lights and gauges are working, so now on to finding the parts I need to get her roadworthy.

I'll have to find both brake and clutch master cylinders, and the slave. If nobody knows of a source or a later model that can be interchanged, I guess I'll send them out to be bored out and re-sleeved. I'll need a water pump, and the thermostat housing. Will need four rims, if anyone knows a source for some that are original or close, as the rims and tires on her don't just not match, but two rub against various components of the truck.

Think I've found a source for the wheel cylinders, assorted brake components. But I'll need a source or any suggestions on what other Datsun or other model will have bushings and suspension that I can use.

Once I've got the brakes and Clutch (will have new lines manufactured at a local machine shop) then I can see if the extra transmission in the bed is there because the transmission underneath is in need of anything. So any help you guys may offer would be appreciated.

I may be crazy, but the Japanese Classic is the end of Sept in Long Beach, and I'd like to see if I can get her entered as a Work in Progress by then.

Parking Space,

Give me a day or two to go through your list. Most parts you mentioned are readily available, new from your local parts store or via eBay.

MC/WC - if not too expensive have them re-lined if that is what they need. Otherwise go with a 20 gauge shot gun copper bore brush to clean them up. I would not use a hone, ruined a front w/c, as they are a little too much for the lining of the MC/WC.

New - BrakeBest offers a new Brake M/C with and without resevior or go with eBay (need to look for best price)

Clutch Slave Cylinder - sorry have not seen this one too often. The CSC from a 520 DOES NOT work! Been there, done that, gutted it, and threw it in the 520 parts box. I also do not know if any British CSC will work.

Water Pump - go to NAPA parts on line. Look up Datsun 520 with J13. This will give you a part # that can be crossed referenced by another store. New, not OE type, but will work.

Thermostat housing - go with a MGA/B Sprite/Midget, they will work, same bolt pattern. I just need to verify this one, but should work. eBay, Moss Motors or Victoria British.

Rims - any Datsun from a 223 (222 has 15 inch and I need one!) up to a 720 will work. All 6 bolt, 14 inch rim. If desperate, might look for a Datsun Trailer on your local craiglist.

Front W/C if you cannot source the OE 3/4 w/c might go with the 13/16 from a 520. They are still SAE with 3/8 inch x 24 threads.

I'm doing my best to be at Long Beach JCC in September with MNSTR 0.

Let me know if you need any parts verification.

v/r
Andy

Thanks for the information, it's a goldmine having folks here who can offer options and sources/resources.

Engine purrs like a kitten, much quitter than my 62 Comet.... Smooth and quiet. Both Brake and Clutch master cylinders are in, modified a slave from a 65, and was able to find one gear, drove in circles in the little space I have to see how the transmission is, and seems to be fine, except for one issue...

I can only find one gear, does anyone have a diagram, description or some guidance on what the pattern is for the column shift? Is it the traditional H pattern, and where is reverse? Any help would be appreciated. I have a Chilton's for 1958 to 68 and nothing about any of the patterns for column shift. I'd much rather keep it intact, and not go to a stick on the floor if I can.

Parking Space,

More than likely you are in third gear. The pattern is differnt from that of your period Fords and Chevys.

From neutral - Move the gear shift lever forward (towards the dash) and up for first gear. To go to second gear go straight down from first.

Third gear is back (towards driver) and up and fourth is straight down from third.

When going from 2nd to 3rd, I find it helps to pause in neutral, drop/relax the gear shift lever in neutral for a time, before moving into third gear. This seems to work best when going from second up to third.

I will down shift from fourth to third but caution against down shifting from third to second as its a bit tricky when turning the corner with the left foot on the clutch, right foot going back and forth from the accelerator, left hand trying to turn the wheel and then your right hand trying to find second gear. The column transmission is a finicky and sometimes tricky, but in no ways a sports car transmission.

Reverse - beginning in neutral, pull the gear lever out (towards the passenger), hold in this position and move the gear lever forward (towards dash) and down. That's where you will find reverse.

All gear should be able to be selected. If you go from neutral to the selected gear and the lever will not go up into first or third or down into second or fourth, then you might have some issues. Let me know if this happens and I'll run you through possible issues.

enjoy,

Li'l Truckie

Thanks

Hip Hip Hip Hip Hurrah. First through fourth found. It will take a bit more practice to find reverse. But Rosie moves forward in all forward gears.

Thanks again. Next to find reverse and on to the brakes.

Some wear and rattling around in the transmission, it's being addressed. Any suggestions on finding or MG or other parts for the Motor Mounts, and Transmission mounts, various bushings and other rubber around the suspension as well as struts, shocks and bushings for the leaf springs?

Parking Space,

From my research no MG / British motor mounts work that VB or Moss carries. I want to say a MG Magnet will work or at least they look the same on eBay. I have access to a Magnet and can verify this. For now eBay occasional has the motor mount for sale and usually from Thailand. I have had no issues ordering from Thailand...ever and that's around 20+ orders.

So might not hurt to look up MG Magnet, Nash Metropolitan, Austin A30, 40, 50 on eBay.

I have never, ever seen the transmission mount for sale so you will have to rebuild these, let me find the link.

For suspension bushing - eBay. A little easier to find and everything from a 320 up to 720 for the rubber bushings will work. For the tension rod bushing add in the Datsun 510.

Shock are available at your local parts store, have them look up a Datsun '66-68 Datsun 520. You will need to machine/grind down the lower mount as the 320 is about an 1" while the shock you get measure 1 7/8"

Bushing for leaf springs - eBay or take the exact measurements of the bushing and go to Whiteline or Energy Suspension and look for generic polyurethane bushings. I have yet to do this as my bushings are still in pretty good shape with no dry rot or cracking.

Andy

Thanks, once again you've come through with the information I need.