Rogue Heater Questions

Nissan Rogue forum - Includes Nissan Qashqai and Nissan Dualis as well.
outtolearn88
Posts: 140
Joined: Sat Aug 16, 2014 2:46 pm
Car: Rogue SL AWD

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Hello pteodor, Can you tell us more about what you mean ? Are you talking about a 2014-15 Rogue with automatic climate control ?

Thanks for sharing your information


phjake
Posts: 99
Joined: Wed Sep 02, 2015 2:27 pm
Car: 2015 Murano SL
Location: Phoenix, AZ

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outtolearn88 wrote:Hello pteodor, Can you tell us more about what you mean ? Are you talking about a 2014-15 Rogue with automatic climate control ?

Thanks for sharing your information
If you have automatic climate control you press the Mode button to cycle through where the air is directed (ie; feet, vents, defrost, etc). Also a symbol on the control panel shows where the air is directed. When you're in auto mode the system automatically selects, and adjusts, where the air is directed based upon the cabin temp you have selected.

outtolearn88
Posts: 140
Joined: Sat Aug 16, 2014 2:46 pm
Car: Rogue SL AWD

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I can tell you from my experience this ROGUE never & I mean never warms up ! Never have I have to wait & wait for the windows to defrost for so soo long !

My first NISSAN & most certainly my last...... I'll be going back to a TOYOTA wich are made for cold weather !

All this electronic automatic STUFF just don't Work right !

And don't get me started on the Radio NAVIGATION unite ....... What terrible software from NISSAN..... Now on my 3rd head unit & still just as buggy as from the start !

pteodor
Posts: 8
Joined: Tue Dec 30, 2014 9:52 pm
Car: Nissan Rogue 2014 SV

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Hi,

I have a 2014 Rogue with manual control. When using the defog/defrost mode, it's normal to have the AC "ON". The problem with the Rogue is that after using these modes and switching to other modes (like ventilation to feet only), the AC is still "ON". The driver doesn't know about it and it will work like this untill the AC button is pressed twice (once to turn ON the light and once to turn the AC "OFF". It doesn't make sense for me, but his is how our vehicles work... :mad:

drummerguy
Posts: 47
Joined: Mon Sep 28, 2015 10:14 pm
Car: 2015 Nissan Rogue SV FWD
Location: Ontario, Canada

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The other night when I started up my 2015 rogue it would only blow cold outside air regardless of what temperature or heat setting I applied. i started it up the next day intending to take it to the dealer when they opened up but suddenly it is working again.......very frustrating.....coincidentally a neighbor of mine also has a rogue and her heater required repair. I wonder if this is an issue with these vehicles. It is mild right now (40 to 60 F) but I am concerned it may fail at a the worst of times (jan.feb. -20F). Not much I can do but monitor the situation for now.

outtolearn88
Posts: 140
Joined: Sat Aug 16, 2014 2:46 pm
Car: Rogue SL AWD

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These NISSAN of today with their tiny engines just don't have any HEAT !
They where design for the HOT climate regions.

NISSAN just forgot that some people live and drive where there is COLD in the -30 weather !

I hate my my ROGUE come the COLD weather ..... :gotme

drummerguy
Posts: 47
Joined: Mon Sep 28, 2015 10:14 pm
Car: 2015 Nissan Rogue SV FWD
Location: Ontario, Canada

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Just an update to my blowing cold air issue......brought the vehicle in for an oil change and mentioned this to the service manager...also said the vent modes do not always work or take a long time...e.g. going from heat set to floor to defrost may take a couple of minutes before it switches. He said there was a service bulletin out about this and according to my(covered under warranty)bill it appears they "rpl the heater and a/c control a**'y". Seems to be working. Wether or not it will affect the heating performance it is too early to tell.

andygold
Posts: 134
Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2014 8:58 am
Car: 2015 Nissan Rogue SL AWD Premium Black/Almond

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:mike
drummerguy wrote:
Thu Sep 07, 2017 9:50 pm
Just an update to my blowing cold air issue......brought the vehicle in for an oil change and mentioned this to the service manager...also said the vent modes do not always work or take a long time...e.g. going from heat set to floor to defrost may take a couple of minutes before it switches. He said there was a service bulletin out about this and according to my(covered under warranty)bill it appears they "rpl the heater and a/c control a**'y". Seems to be working. Wether or not it will affect the heating performance it is too early to tell.
Now that cold weather is here, did the replacement assy make any difference?

My '15 Rogue SL...I drove an hour to work today with outside temps running 0°F to -2°F at mostly 55mph. I was comfy, wearing a winter coat, but there was no way I would ever have to turn the temp down, to be comfortable. The heat in this vehicle cannot make me too hot. The hottest it would blow no matter how I had it set was 110°F out of the driver side dash vent. As soon I pulled into a parking spot, with engine still running, the temp started to go down. It leveled off at 90°F. That may sound high, but it felt relatively cool to me, as it is far below body temp. You probably won't freeze to death if you got stuck on a closed road in your car, but if the hottest it will go is below body temperature, that could be an issue, the longer you're stuck there.

And, to those who mention it being a small engine and that's why it doesn't heat well, well that just total BS! I've had plenty of cars with 1.6L and 1.8L and 2.0L engines that you could probably fry an egg in front of the dash vents (3 VW Rabbits {they blew volcano-hot}, a Mazda Protege, a Subaru WRX). It's got absolutely nothing to do with engine size. It's totally to do with the design of the system!

drummerguy
Posts: 47
Joined: Mon Sep 28, 2015 10:14 pm
Car: 2015 Nissan Rogue SV FWD
Location: Ontario, Canada

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Changing the part did not seem to make a difference.......I find the heater is tolerable down to about 0 F. Below that it begins to become particularly uncomfortable.......I should add it takes a fair bit of driving to get the heater working optimally and I always leave the dial on the highest setting. I guess that is why they added the heated seats, to make up for the deficient heater.

outtolearn88
Posts: 140
Joined: Sat Aug 16, 2014 2:46 pm
Car: Rogue SL AWD

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THERE IS NO FIX to this PROBLEM !
The dealer told me it was designed this way ........
Can't understand why ?????

Only thing I can figure it's part of saving gas..... As to get a better gas ratings !
We the customers all have to live with the COLD !

Rogue Jarhead
Posts: 455
Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2013 12:15 pm
Car: 2011 Nissan Rogue Krom

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outtolearn88 wrote:
Sun Dec 31, 2017 1:33 pm
THERE IS NO FIX to this PROBLEM !
The dealer told me it was designed this way ........
Can't understand why ?????

Only thing I can figure it's part of saving gas..... As to get a better gas ratings !
We the customers all have to live with the COLD !
Have you tried changing the thermostat? My 11 heats up very nicely, I’ve never had an issue with heat. Most thermostats when they fail , they will fail open, which means the engine never reaches the optimum operating temperature. The optimum temperature by the way is where you get your best fuel mileage, a cold engine wastes fuel. This is the time of year when thermostat failure become most apparent.

I would think that the dealer should have changed that out when you brought it to their attention. Telling you it’s how it’s designed probably means you were talking to a service manager whose last job was retail. Next time look at the service managers hands if the nails are clean and the skin is soft ask to speak with one of the guys who actually knows something about and works on the cars, not someone whose job is juggling schedules. I like a dealer who promotes their older mechanics to the service manager position so when they tell you something they have had some experience in that area. Not a dealer who hires a former stock boy or girl from Walmart.

Yes there can be blend door issues and the like, but the thermostat is the place I’d start, that and checking to make sure your radiator is full. If the radiator is not full sometimes there isn’t enough water to circulate into the heater core.

There should be a write up on changing the thermostat yourself and probably a YouTube video as well. If you decide to DIY. DO NOT buy a parts store thermostat go to the dealer and buy one across their parts counter. The $3 -15 specials at box auto parts stores are just absolute junk.

There is a device you can buy that plugs into your obd connector that will tell you what your engine is doing. Water temp, charging volts, and a host of other data. It’s available on Amazon for $10-20 and you download the torque app to run it and see the data on your smartphone. I have one for my iPhone called ultragauge blue, however it’s a little more the $20. These devices allow you to actually know what you car is doing. The Rogue water temperature should run right about 200 degrees F. That is more than enough heat to make you uncomfortable on all but the very coldest of days, -10 or below.

With a device like this you can tell if your thermostat is working, if the car doesn’t reach 200F then the thermostat is bad. If it does then the blend doors aren’t working or the heater core is plugged or you have an air locked system.

Maximus099
Posts: 130
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2014 8:09 am
Car: 2014 Nissan Rogue SV AWD

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My 2014 does the same. If it's not to the last heat setting its not very hot in the vehicule. If I back off one red space theres a huge difference with the heat coming out. This issue which i too was told is normal on top of the 3000rpm at 50km/h while cvt heats up makes me question if this Rogue should even be sold in north america.

outtolearn88
Posts: 140
Joined: Sat Aug 16, 2014 2:46 pm
Car: Rogue SL AWD

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Thanks for all your input Jarhead, But around here it's very hard to find a Dealer with your chain of taughts. I totally agree with you but again unfortunately today what counts is the $$$ that the dealership makes !
I'm with Maximus099 on the Rogue was not designed for the North America COLD weather.....
NISSAN is just thinking of the numbers of SALES & $$$ they bring in !
Unfortunately this will be my LAST NISSAN product.

drummerguy
Posts: 47
Joined: Mon Sep 28, 2015 10:14 pm
Car: 2015 Nissan Rogue SV FWD
Location: Ontario, Canada

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Only problem is most people buy cars in the spring, summer or fall.....so unless you take that vehicle out on a cold winter day how would you know how well the heater performs.

Rogue Jarhead
Posts: 455
Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2013 12:15 pm
Car: 2011 Nissan Rogue Krom

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outtolearn88 wrote:
Fri Jan 05, 2018 6:07 am
Thanks for all your input Jarhead, But around here it's very hard to find a Dealer with your chain of taughts. I totally agree with you but again unfortunately today what counts is the $$$ that the dealership makes !
I'm with Maximus099 on the Rogue was not designed for the North America COLD weather.....
NISSAN is just thinking of the numbers of SALES & $$$ they bring in !
Unfortunately this will be my LAST NISSAN product.
So I’ve never thought that my Rogue was particular cold and the heat always seems to be good. In thinking about why yours would be different I did some looking and research. Now keep in mind my Rogue has not given me any problem and I have not had to replace any cooling related component. (Yet)

There seems to be 2 thermostats in the Rogue. One called the upper is a 203 or 205* thermostat the other called the lower is a 180* thermostat. Both should be of a failsafe design, meaning if they go bad they lock in an open position so the vehicle does not overheat and create a whole host of additional problems. If either one is bad and locked open your vehicle will never reach the correct operating temperature and the heat coming from your vents will be slightly more than lukewarm.

Now I have never had a vehicle with two thermostats before I wasn’t even aware that anything like that was on the market in a passanger vehicle. Maybe I’m reading wrong and someone who knows will chime in and correct me. In any case one or two a failed open thermostat while protecting your engine will not keep you warm especially in the cold we have been having.

If there are two thermostats then you would need to determine which was bad or just replace both. Also the correct temperature thermostat needs to be put in the correct place. Just food for thought.

Sigster
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Apr 22, 2015 1:33 pm

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Just another data point,

Rogue 2008 SL AWD - heating is excellent

We had some days with under -10F here in MN recently, and while it obviously takes longer to warm up, once warmed up it heats just fine.

Coolant is sitting at ~84C / 183F in these temperatures when fully warmed up.

And to second Rogue Jarhead's suggestion,
get an app and a Bluetooth or WiFi dongle to read your car data.

I've been using Torque Pro for a long time (Lite is free, Pro is $5, Android only),
and since I bought the Rogue I bought the
CVTz50 app (Demo free - to check compatibility, App $5, Android only)
(I found that App through a post on NicoClub)
http://cvtz50.info/en/

Works great for my '08 Rogue CVT, check the screen shots of all the data it provides on their webpage

This would let you find out if low coolant temperature is the cause for your heating problems.

rec1
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2018 2:00 pm
Car: 2017 Rogue Sport SL

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2017 Rogue Sport is slow to warm up and put out heat. Northern Ohio 20 minutes running and the needle is just moving off the cold peg on the temp gauge. Auto climate control never turns the blower on because the engine temp is to low to put out heat. Anybody else had this problem?

westiedriver
Posts: 10
Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2017 6:07 pm
Car: 2015 rogue SL premium

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Coolant level might be low or stuck open thermostat

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sprocket
Posts: 195
Joined: Thu Jun 11, 2009 6:27 am
Location: Metro Detroit, MI

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What was your outside temps? Midwest has had a pretty brutal winter past week or so, down to the negative single digits. Smaller displacement engines will take longer to warm up, especially in frigid temps.

I remember my Versa Note with the 1.6L took a long time to warm up, my Sentra and Rogue both do better but still took longer than usual with the recent negative single digits temps.

tikus
Posts: 58
Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2007 9:20 am
Car: Rogue SL AWD Carbon Silver

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I am still using my 2008 Rogue, it built in with heater block to the engine with wire connected. Could be only in Canada.

Bluesburglar
Posts: 6
Joined: Sun Dec 31, 2017 1:30 pm
Car: 2015 Rogue SV

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2015 Rogue AWD in the Great White North. Heater is woefully inadequate, takes ages to warm up and only seems to work on the maximum setting with the fan up full. Thank goodness for the heated seats! On the plus side, the AC is quite good but not much consolation when ones arse is freezing off.

amc49
Posts: 1183
Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2017 7:24 pm
Car: '11 Nissan Versa
'17 Nissan Altima

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I for one believe they design the car running temperatures only for the most common temperatures seen by the vehicles. My Fords do the exact same thing, get overwhelmed by any cold lower than around 10 degrees. I simply partially block the rads to run the temps back up like the big rigs do and part of life. The cars have to hit at least 200 degrees and even better 220 while running to lower emissions and increase engine life. All of the Fords I have for the lat 15 years actually heat to 220 and normal and yet still are overwhelmed by the cold in winter past a certain point and everything working fine.

I have a two stat Versa and slowly working that idea out in my head as well, I think the second stat is there simply to more reliably hit motor emission temps and get the car into closed loop faster from stone cold. I plan at some time to drop the entry stat completely to let the motor come to temp by the normal engine exit point like most every other car in the universe does, the cooling system then would be exactly as my Fords are and dead reliable. The only problem I can see is if the software has a time based counter and the missing second stat lets the engine warm a bit slower then a few seconds difference in warmup could begin to post DTCs from the computer thinking there is a non-existent problem. For sure a car with only one stat will have less overheat issues as stats are commonly what make them if one keeps the hoses in good shape as I do.

There is a fix to virtually every problem, listening to dealer people on things like that only messes up your head. I for one pretty much have no use for dealers at all anyway. And FYI gas mileage DROPS as coolant temp goes down, it goes up with a hotter engine.

Rogue Jarhead
Posts: 455
Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2013 12:15 pm
Car: 2011 Nissan Rogue Krom

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amc49 wrote:
Wed Jan 10, 2018 9:16 pm
I for one believe they design the car running temperatures only for the most common temperatures seen by the vehicles. My Fords do the exact same thing, get overwhelmed by any cold lower than around 10 degrees. I simply partially block the rads to run the temps back up like the big rigs do and part of life. The cars have to hit at least 200 degrees and even better 220 while running to lower emissions and increase engine life. All of the Fords I have for the lat 15 years actually heat to 220 and normal and yet still are overwhelmed by the cold in winter past a certain point and everything working fine.

I have a two stat Versa and slowly working that idea out in my head as well, I think the second stat is there simply to more reliably hit motor emission temps and get the car into closed loop faster from stone cold. I plan at some time to drop the entry stat completely to let the motor come to temp by the normal engine exit point like most every other car in the universe does, the cooling system then would be exactly as my Fords are and dead reliable. The only problem I can see is if the software has a time based counter and the missing second stat lets the engine warm a bit slower then a few seconds difference in warmup could begin to post DTCs from the computer thinking there is a non-existent problem. For sure a car with only one stat will have less overheat issues as stats are commonly what make them if one keeps the hoses in good shape as I do.

There is a fix to virtually every problem, listening to dealer people on things like that only messes up your head. I for one pretty much have no use for dealers at all anyway. And FYI gas mileage DROPS as coolant temp goes down, it goes up with a hotter engine.
I am hoping one of these folks that is experiencing little to no heat will change out their thermostats and report back on the difference if any.

So there are two thermostats if I’m reading your post correctly? Throwing one away might be a good idea unless it causes a MIL\CEL

I think also that with all these new digital temperature controls you need to remember in a digital age that’s what everyone expects to see. I have a Dodge with digital climate control and a Rogue with a numbered dial. I still regard the heating system to be low , medium and high. The colder it gets the higher you have to turn the heat. Just like the old cars with a knob that slid from hot to cold along a red and blue line.The blend doors inside the hvac system haven’t changed, I’ll bet they are still a door that opens and closes on two pivot points, having numbers on a dash just looks way cooler and allows the dealer to charge additional money. Both at the point of sale and in the event of a repair. No more just replacing or reconnecting a $5 cable now it’s a $150 blend door control motor.

outtolearn88
Posts: 140
Joined: Sat Aug 16, 2014 2:46 pm
Car: Rogue SL AWD

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Rogue Jarhead, Your so SO RIGHT about the dealer making more $$$$
My good old 2010 TOYOTA MATRIX sur has a GREAT old school heater & A/C system that does exactly what it needs to !

Thanks everyone for your interest & input.

slimsol
Posts: 62
Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2014 8:32 pm
Car: 2014 rogue

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rec1 wrote:
Mon Jan 08, 2018 2:13 pm
2017 Rogue Sport is slow to warm up and put out heat. Northern Ohio 20 minutes running and the needle is just moving off the cold peg on the temp gauge. Auto climate control never turns the blower on because the engine temp is to low to put out heat. Anybody else had this problem?
Yes. I have this problem in my 2014 rogue. everyone owner of 2nd gen told me that 2nd gen rogue takes little bit longer to warm up depending on outside temperate. It takes about 5 miles drive for my rogue to throw warm air through vent in cold weather. When you say 20mins do you mean 20 mins of driving or idling?

cl1chicago
Posts: 9
Joined: Sun Aug 17, 2014 2:27 pm
Car: Nissan 2009 Rogue AWD, 745 BMW, Dodge Durango

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I have an 09 Rogue, 255,000 miles, I checked temp when driving air was 150 F when vehicle heated up to nominal. It was -20 degrees below zero here and defrost was not working... I finally figured out I had an air bubble in heater core because air was not 150 F at idle, more like 100 F. I had it burped a few times and got it working again. The heater core and radiator are at different levels, the radiator is a little lower. I've already changed my water pump and thermostat so i knew it was not them. I'm not a fan of these cooling systems.

cl1chicago
Posts: 9
Joined: Sun Aug 17, 2014 2:27 pm
Car: Nissan 2009 Rogue AWD, 745 BMW, Dodge Durango

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I have 09 Rogue 255,000 miles. My air temp is 150 F while driving, at idle it was 50 degrees less, I had air bubble in heater core. If you want hire temp all the time do what Rogue One said and change the thermostat. Just make sure that first you make sure temp is same at running condition on road verse idle because if idle temp is lower that's a different problem then the thermostat. Personally I think the 150 F is plenty hot.

rec1
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2018 2:00 pm
Car: 2017 Rogue Sport SL

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It has been cold outside and I know it can take longer the colder it is out to get up to operating temp, but this seems abnormal. A car should still reach a point where the heater puts out hot air.

Does not matter is sitting idling in the driveway or on the road either way slow to get warm a put out real heat. Warm air but, not as hot as other cars we own or have owned.
1)Drove 10 miles after car warmed up in the driveway for 6 minutes and the gauge was still pegged at cold blowing lukewarm air.
2)Idled in the driveway 20 minutes, gauge still pegged at cold with air just warm enough to start and melt ice an windshield.

If thermostat that is not closing completely that could explain slow to heat up. But shouldn't it eventually still get hot? Can't believe Nissan designed this thing for only desert heat and not snow country.

Rogue Jarhead
Posts: 455
Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2013 12:15 pm
Car: 2011 Nissan Rogue Krom

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cl1chicago wrote:
Sat Jan 13, 2018 1:46 pm
I have 09 Rogue 255,000 miles. My air temp is 150 F while driving, at idle it was 50 degrees less, I had air bubble in heater core. If you want hire temp all the time do what Rogue One said and change the thermostat. Just make sure that first you make sure temp is same at running condition on road verse idle because if idle temp is lower that's a different problem then the thermostat. Personally I think the 150 F is plenty hot.
If your car never goes past 150 you’re thermostat is bad. Your Rogue should run right about 200 degrees once warmed up properly. If it only gets to 150 you will not get much (lukewarm) heat, and your fuel mileage will be lousy.

Edit: Do you mean the air temp coming out of your vents is 150? Or are you monitoring your engine temperature with a blue tooth device and the engine only gets to 150?

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Rogue One
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rec1 wrote:
Mon Jan 08, 2018 2:13 pm
2017 Rogue Sport is slow to warm up and put out heat. Northern Ohio 20 minutes running and the needle is just moving off the cold peg on the temp gauge. Auto climate control never turns the blower on because the engine temp is to low to put out heat. Anybody else had this problem?
The Rogue Sport is a slightly smaller version of the Rogue, and the heating system works the same in all versions. Topics merged. Please read through the previous posts.


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