Rogue Heater Questions

Nissan Rogue forum - Includes Nissan Qashqai and Nissan Dualis as well.
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ImStricken06
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DTASFAB wrote:That's a great way to rust out the radiator
nonsense!! nothing in your cooling system will rust from water alone! otherwise the 50/50 solution of water would start the rusting process from day 1.
what causes rusting is peoples failure to change the fluids on time.

race cars and race bikes ONLY run water(with a lubing agent). cars on the road in super hot climates ONLY run water, since its the best conductor. again, nothing in your cooling system will rust from water alone! you only need anti-freeze to lube seals, and prevent rusting. you can get all of these properties from many products that are top-quality and race-track approved.
and have the fluid freeze up at the same time.
it depends on your mix. 50/50 is great from some, and not good for others. if you live in arizona, new mexico, texas, florida etc, you can easily drive around with 70/30. if you live in really-really cold climates you could drop your mix by 60-40 and have little to negative affects. A 50/50 mix will give you protection down to -33 degrees. if you dont live in temps like that, its safe to 'play' with your mixture.

since the CVT requires proper cooling from the radiator in order to not go limp.
your engine coolant has NOTHING to do with your cvt. your cvt has its own fluid, that goes into the bottom of the radiator to cool the fluid down from the incoming colder air. the channels and fins from the engine coolant dont even touch the channels from the engine coolant.
Even with low ambient temperatures, driving the engine hard without proper cooling of the CVT could cause it to overheat. A driver who is extremely light-footed could get away with having more water than coolant in the radiator.
i have raced my racebike with only water (every race track requires ONLY water with a couple cap fulls of water-wetter for lubing agent; as coolant is too slippery and hard to wash off) in the dead of summer, with 90*+ temps, i have had the engine up into 12,000-18,000 rpm, screaming... and never a boil over or any issue. and i am not the only one. EVERYONE ran water as per requirement. cars included. and they ran HARD

if anything, Pure water has a higher heat capacity than any anti-freeze mix! hence why items like water-wetter & engine ice work so well at the track.
a 50/50 mix of antifreeze runs 12 degrees hotter than a 50/50 mix with water-wetter. 100% water with few cap fulls of water-wetter runs another 20 degrees cooler.

test were done:
The engine operated at 7200 rpm for three hours and the stabilized cooling system temperature was recorded and tabulated below:
Cooling System Fluid = Stabilized Temperature
50%Glycol Coolant / 50%Water = 228°F
50/50 with Water-Wetter = 220°F
Water Alone = 220°F
Water with Water-Wetter = 202°F

so tell me, does the 50/50(at 228F) or the water alone(at 220F) sound like better cooling?


12rogue
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ImStricken,

This says that the coolant mix DOES effect the CVT operation in HOT weather. I'm not sure how the mix will effect operation in cold weather but I think the nissan recommended mix is probably the safest to use due to the interation with the CVT.


rogue-cvt-issues-fail-safe-and-whining- ... 63940.html
"Coolant protection is also a factor. There are tools out there to check freeze protection. Nissan recommends -34 degrees for proper cooling of the transmission. I seen some overheat at -48 degrees. I live in Colorado so it usually doesn't get that hot. The hotter the climate the easier the transmission will overheat if the coolant protection isn't set right. If your doing it yourself try to mix the coolant and water to -25 degrees. That would be more ideal. Seems to cool a lot better. And so everyone knows This is for all cvt equipped nissans. Rogues aren't the only one with these issues. Altimas and sentras have the same issues. Now if anyone has been in a front end collision And the radiator replaced make sure it's a Nissan radiator. Here is an example. Customer came in had the transmission replaced 30k miles ago. Transmission kept going into fail safe and whining. Level was good on the transmission but coolant protection was off. Set freeze protection where it should be and took on a long test drive. Same issue. Found out that it was in a front end collision 6 months earlier and a aftermarket radiator installed. Aftermarket radiators don't cool as well as oem ones. We replaced with a Nissan radiator and problem never came back. Now I have a 2005 Nissan altima. You better believe if my radiator cracks I will probably replace it with a aftermarket radiator because I don't have a cvt transmission. These transmission are so sensitive to heat its crazy. Now there are always times that it may need a transmission and if that's the case then it will be replaced. Usually when this happens a check engine light comes on or there are some codes stored In the ECM."

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ImStricken06
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12rogue wrote:ImStricken,

This says that the coolant mix DOES effect the CVT operation in HOT weather. I'm not sure how the mix will effect operation in cold weather but I think the nissan recommended mix is probably the safest to use due to the interation with the CVT.


rogue-cvt-issues-fail-safe-and-whining- ... 63940.html
"Coolant protection is also a factor. There are tools out there to check freeze protection. Nissan recommends -34 degrees for proper cooling of the transmission. I seen some overheat at -48 degrees. I live in Colorado so it usually doesn't get that hot. The hotter the climate the easier the transmission will overheat if the coolant protection isn't set right. If your doing it yourself try to mix the coolant and water to -25 degrees. That would be more ideal. Seems to cool a lot better. And so everyone knows This is for all cvt equipped nissans. Rogues aren't the only one with these issues. Altimas and sentras have the same issues. Now if anyone has been in a front end collision And the radiator replaced make sure it's a Nissan radiator. Here is an example. Customer came in had the transmission replaced 30k miles ago. Transmission kept going into fail safe and whining. Level was good on the transmission but coolant protection was off. Set freeze protection where it should be and took on a long test drive. Same issue. Found out that it was in a front end collision 6 months earlier and a aftermarket radiator installed. Aftermarket radiators don't cool as well as oem ones. We replaced with a Nissan radiator and problem never came back. Now I have a 2005 Nissan altima. You better believe if my radiator cracks I will probably replace it with a aftermarket radiator because I don't have a cvt transmission. These transmission are so sensitive to heat its crazy. Now there are always times that it may need a transmission and if that's the case then it will be replaced. Usually when this happens a check engine light comes on or there are some codes stored In the ECM."
i read that. i have no idea how coolant has anything to do with transmission fluid/operating temps. the two do NOT touch. the only way i can see anything with the coolant system, affect the transmission is if you got an aftermarket radiator with insufficient transmission cooling piping.

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RyleyinSTL
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Regardless...you shouldn't need to monkey with the antifreeze mixture in a modern car to properly heat/defrost the interiour of the car at any cold ambient temperature (assuming the engine can achieve normal operating temp). Growing up in Saskatchewan we could spend weeks at a time below -30c (actual air temp) and I never had any issues keeping other cars warm inside. Not so with my Altima 2.5.

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ImStricken06
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RyleyinSTL wrote:Regardless...you shouldn't need to monkey with the antifreeze mixture in a modern car to properly heat/defrost the interiour of the car at any cold ambient temperature (assuming the engine can achieve normal operating temp). Growing up in Saskatchewan we could spend weeks at a time below -30c (actual air temp) and I never had any issues keeping other cars warm inside. Not so with my Altima 2.5.
i agree 100% with you.

JLD94
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The heater in my 14 has been below par since I've had it. I can't recall any car I've ever owned that takes as long for the heater to feel like it's working correctly. I plan on asking about it when I take it in for service

TrevorK
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JLD94 wrote:The heater in my 14 has been below par since I've had it. I can't recall any car I've ever owned that takes as long for the heater to feel like it's working correctly. I plan on asking about it when I take it in for service
I assume it's this way in many Nissan cars. My Rogue has always performed poorly in the cold (in terms of heat generated) and I had a 2014 Versa for almost 2 weeks, and it's heater was no better. Good luck, if they can actually do something for you let us know!

DAC603
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JLD94 wrote:The heater in my 14 has been below par since I've had it. I can't recall any car I've ever owned that takes as long for the heater to feel like it's working correctly. I plan on asking about it when I take it in for service

It bought back memories of the manifold heater in the VW I had way back in the 60's for me. :facepalm:

1019throw
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JLD94 wrote:The heater in my 14 has been below par since I've had it. I can't recall any car I've ever owned that takes as long for the heater to feel like it's working correctly. I plan on asking about it when I take it in for service
My 08 Sentra did a good job heating up.

I'm just curious, what do you really think they are going to tell you if you ask about the heater when you bring it in? I'll be getting my first oil change probably in March/April, but by that time it will be getting warm here in PA.

JLD94
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I really don't know. Hopefully they will check it out though. At first I thought maybe something was 'blocking' the heat from flowing freely, especially to the floor. After seeing a couple of these threads though I'm thinking it's normal.

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ImStricken06
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JLD94 wrote:I really don't know. Hopefully they will check it out though. At first I thought maybe something was 'blocking' the heat from flowing freely, especially to the floor. After seeing a couple of these threads though I'm thinking it's normal.
i have the same problem: weak floor heating abilities. my feet get frozen! probably tiny piping towards the floor

zengshengliu
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I dont know but I feel too hot if I run my heat at the highest setting even with the fan set to low.
Here is my setup
Fan: Lo or a few block above it
Temp: Hottest
Vent: Floor only
It does take a while for it to heat up, but after it does, its hot (for me)
And try not to turn the fan to high from the beginning, that might slow the heating down (I think)

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ImStricken06
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yo dtasfab, check this video out. its pretty cool. the guy just uploaded it today. the guy drops red hot nickle metal ball into engine coolant, and then water/water-wetter. check out the temps.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSa5KSBs4d8[/youtube]

1019throw
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So I ran a quick test today.

Recirculating the air instead of pulling air outside of the vehicle, helps heat the vehicle substantially more. Now it pretty warm here is PA today, 24F, so I will try it one morning that it is in single digits again.

Overall, it does seem to take somewhat long to get up to operating temp, but I believe that to be a factor of the bitter cold.

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ImStricken06
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1. 4cyl engines generate a lot less heat, compared to larger engines.
2. larger engines have less moving air in between the engine and engine bay.
3. the CVT keeps the rpm's low, so that increases the time it takes to heat the engine up. in the morning i go into 'manual' mode and use the paddle shifter to stay in gear longer. ill ride down my quiet street in 1st, about 15mph, at 1500rpm. then i just keep the RPM's steady around 2000rpm as i take my time to shift through the gears.

i'm not upset at the rogue for how slow/fast it heats up - i am upset at how poorly it heats the floor, etc.

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Leo2005
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For the day 2 dealer can not identify the problem. Mine is the opposite...blowin heat like crazy. Will try different dealership tomorrow:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MmgMwE_ ... ata_player

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ImStricken06
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Leo2005 wrote:For the day 2 dealer can not identify the problem. Mine is the opposite...blowin heat like crazy. Will try different dealership tomorrow:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MmgMwE_ ... ata_player
only heat? or just erratic fan speeds(resister issues)

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Leo2005
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As you can see you in the video I can't turn it off and can't control the temperature either. It is always on the max

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ImStricken06
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hardware issue. probably the control panel. did they change that yet?

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Leo2005
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Nothin yet. Gave me a loaner '13 rogue special edition. Kinda like it more than 14 the way it drives

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Leo2005
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Their GUESS is computer failed. Guess means not sure so I think they're going to replace one by one unit lol until I get a totally new car? That makes me laugh

JLD94
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I had a quality survey come in from nissan today about the rogue, I hammered the heater issue pretty well. So maybe it will eventually get better in the future.

rcturner
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It has been fairly cold here since I got my SL. I have only had it for about 18 days but, the heater works very well. When you add the heated seats it is like riding on a summers day.

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ImStricken06
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anyone ever thought of putting cardboard in front of the radiator to block cold air from coming in and over-cooling the radiator?

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phmichel
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5.56 wrote:anyone ever thought of putting cardboard in front of the radiator to block cold air from coming in and over-cooling the radiator?
I did this in my Jeep Cherokee every winter for 10 years (traded the Cherokee for the Rogue). I have 2 suggestions:

- If you use cardboard, spray paint it with with a few coats of enamel paint so it won't get wet. If you let raw cardboard get soaked in your radiator, then let it dry, it is REAL hard to get it out. Trust me on this.

- If you slide the cardboard in front of the radiator (which you can do on the Rogue), don't cover up the potion in front of the primary cooling fan. If you have to sit at an extended idle, it may overheat (if you don't pull the cardboard).

Stricken: I'm thinking of doing this anyway because I think the Rogue heater is kind of anemic.

My .02

nightslide
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5.56 wrote:anyone ever thought of putting cardboard in front of the radiator to block cold air from coming in and over-cooling the radiator?
Oddly enough, that's what started the whole topic, I was wondering if anyone had heard/seen a winter front for the Rogue, which is basically just a nice looking piece of insulated fabric to reduce the cold air coming into the radiator.
Often, they also have flaps so that you can adjust (ie, open the flap/panel) so that more air is getting in.

Going out of town t-mow, will try using the recirculate function, and see if that heats things up more quickly.

Has anyone yet come across a winter front for the Rogues?

Haven't looked at this topic in a long time, nice to see I'm not the only one having this issue.

Thanks to everyone that has (and continues to) respond.

d

ivan_2001ve
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With the recent cold front. I finally got the chance to test the heater and the seat heaters too.
I know that here in texas is not as cold as in Canada but this review may help since i got the chance to leave the house when the outside temperature was 30 F (-1 celsius), with the wind it felt like 27 F (-3 C).

Heater: A/C off setting auto at 74 F (23.33 C): The auto feature will blow the air to the floor vents. Some comes thru the defroster too. I read in the manual that this is normal operation. First it takes 2 to 3 minutes to start blowing some air, also read that this is normal operation since the coolant needs to reach certain temperature before the system starts to work. (you can also read this in the user manual), after that it take like 5 to 8 minutes to get nice,cozy and warm.

Seats: I have an SL. As you know leather can get ice cold. On the high setting it takes about 3 minutes to start to fell the heat. This seats are amazing the do not get crazy hot that will burn your butt like other brands and older nissan models. Just turn them on and don't worry about that switch for the rest of your trip. Some people my find them to be less power full than other cars, but this seats are well design to make comfortable not to BBQ your butt.

My only complain: I would love to have heated steering wheel

david1
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Heater worked fine until return trip this afternoon. Now driver side luke warm and passenger side cool to cold. OAT 3 degrees celsius. Wife not happy. Going to dealer next week. 16,000kms.
Last edited by Rogue One on Fri Nov 14, 2014 8:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Merged with existing thread

Maximus099
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Ivan you're killing me with the -3 is quite cold ;-P. Here in Quebec, Can. it often drops to -40c with the wind factor during the winter.

I'd like to know if it's safe to leave the seat heating button activated so it can start heating during remote starts. Would it consume battery charge or not enough for one night? Thanks

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ImStricken06
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Maximus099 wrote:I'd like to know if it's safe to leave the seat heating button activated so it can start heating during remote starts. Would it consume battery charge or not enough for one night? Thanks
the heated seats are not activated if the car is off. they are through the fuse box, which kills power once the ignition is turned off.


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