The dealer said that the door handle problem was not Nissan's problem and I said that they probably did not put it back together right when they did the recall fix.

NISAN-NeverAgain wrote:The dealer said that the door handle problem was not Nissan's problem and I said that they probably did not put it back together right when they did the recall fix.

that doesnt make sense. if its a re-call/tsb then how is it: NOT NISSANS PROBLEM? nissan is the one who issued the tsb... but lets say its not even a tsb. lets pretend you broke it yourself and went to the dealer to get it fixed. if they did the repair, i believe its a 1yr warranty

They are saying something else went wrong inside the door and not anything to do with the recall.
I can see their point and at the same time they were the ones that opened up messed with the door.
Actually this local dealer did not touch it, it was the Nissan dealer in Fla. that replaced the transmission and messed with the door.
May the local dealer will not get reimbursed for the work. I don't know.
It looks like another dance around and around.

Do you have a receipt or anything detailing what work was done and what parts were changed by the shop in FL? Also, what exactly is wrong with the door currently. "Something else" isn't a part, it's a generic term I would use if I were a shady POS.

For what it's worth, you're really better off never trusting anyone or any company. Always assume they're going to do the absolute minimum at all times, if they even do that.

Have you contacted anyone other than the two dealers and the users of this forum?

Perhaps Nissan's corporate, national, consumer affairs department can help you before you piss and moan about this incessantly?

http://gethuman.com/phone-number/Nissan-USA/

800-647-7261
Talk to a Human
Press 7, then 3

OK, Here's the latest scoop.
I got a second call from the dealer after I told him that I wasn't going to pay the $500+ to replace the door handles.
He told me that they got the door open and that they had lubricated it and it is working now. I just picked it up and it is
in fact working OK now.

The Invoice states
CUST STATES PASS DOOR WILL NOT OPEN AFTER RECALL
HE1000 AFTER LUBRICATION LATCH OPENED, SUGGEST
LATCH AND HANDLE REPLACEMENT

Now the door is opening.
I don't trust the car now. When it warms up outside a bit, I'll have to take the door apart to see how everything works
so that when this happens again, I'll be able to open the door to fix it myself.


Is this a problem because the door handles and other door parts are cheap or not designed well or what?
The transmission went at a 79713.

Thank you for your suggestions.

I understand you've had difficulty with this vehicle, but your transmission has just been replaced with a brand new unit under the extended warranty. If you go back to the first page of this very thread, you'll see that Rogue transmissions are very delicate and sensitive, but they can be reliable when maintained properly.

Have you had your aftermarket radiator replaced with a Nissan OEM radiator? An aftermarket radiator will not cool the transmission properly during the summer, and you will experience problems with your new transmission eventually. If you maintain your drivetrain and cooling system properly, it should be reliable for tens of thousands of additional miles.

The door handle is a known problem for your year Rogue, which is why there was a recall. The fact that other components in the door that may or may not be directly impacted by the recall have failed or were messed with is not the slightest bit surprising. I would just try to get it working adequately for as little cost as possible and forget about it. The best way to get it fixed at this point is to go through Nissan corporate, explain that you can't take it back to the same dealer who did the recall work on the door handle, but you still need the door fixed properly, which it still hasn't been. Hopefully they will grease the wheels with your local dealer and help you get the door fixed for little or no cost.

I've heard of doors getting sticky if its super super cold out. The latches don't like to work, etc.

But I mean SUPER cold out. Like, well below zero.
Door operation is very important in the event of a crash or a fire, so take it seriously. It sounds like you don't trust the car at all anymore, which I can definitely understand. I wouldn't want to go through life day to day not trusting my car (especially important stuff like the door opening). Have you looked into selling it?

I have not messed with the radiator. Now that I've mentioned it, watch it'll beak next! 8^)

I agree that door operation is vital.

re: Selling it
I have real trouble selling it to someone else. Junk is junk, to me or the next guy.
I kept my 96 Blazer (and it WAS JUNK) until it was ready for the junkyard. I knew it was junk but I just could not live with myself if I did that to someone else.
The Nissan is not anywhere near as bad as the Chevy Blazer was - yet!
So far the Nissan has some kind of intermittent headlight problem that presented itself at about 1AM on the way back from Fla. The low beam headlights just went out. One bulb burnt out and the other has some kind of intermittent issue that I have not been able to locate.

The other problem is the rear right window seems to randomly go down about 4" all by itself. Go figure?

I did have one American car that was good - 1990 Chevy Celebrity (288K miles). After that the Blazer convinced me to never give GM another chance.
So far my 98 Honda Odyssey with 207k+ miles on it has been a very reliable car. Engine and power-train are unstoppable but the body rots out.

Bottom line: I am going to learn a lot about fixing this Nissan.
One good thing about it is that there are many 2008 Rogues out there and that means that the junkyards will have the parts.
BTW: On the way back from Fla, I saw another Rogue owner in a rest area with the hood up (I guess) waiting for the transmission to cool like I had to do until a solid failure presented.

Thanks for the pointers.

Sounds like you're having oodles of fun! As for your window problem, I'd say it's probably the regulator. If you feel like tryig to tackle it yourself I'd suggest checking for the correct part here. http://www.nissanpartszone.com/oem-niss ... lator.html

I took my 2011 Altima 2.5s in for its 60,000 mile service.. The tech called me and said the torque converter seal had to be replaced... Now they replaced that, I am hearing this whine in high rpm.. Some of you seem to be acting like it's something to pass off like it's not a big deal.. But I didn't buy this car with a whining noise.. It's not supposed to sound like that.. Air in the fluid? Maybe because the fluid was just changed... But I have to deal with that horrid sound forever now? I'm taking it back to Raceway Nissan tomorrow.. Anybody know what to tell these guys to just replace the cvt? Or buy my car back so I can get an Accord? Lol
Thanks guys!

GonnaMakeItLast wrote:I took my 2011 Altima 2.5s in for its 60,000 mile service.. The tech called me and said the torque converter seal had to be replaced... Now they replaced that, I am hearing this whine in high rpm.. Some of you seem to be acting like it's something to pass off like it's not a big deal.. But I didn't buy this car with a whining noise.. It's not supposed to sound like that.. Air in the fluid? Maybe because the fluid was just changed... But I have to deal with that horrid sound forever now? I'm taking it back to Raceway Nissan tomorrow.. Anybody know what to tell these guys to just replace the cvt? Or buy my car back so I can get an Accord? Lol
Thanks guys!

i know the whine you are talking about. i have heard it before on other cars. ours is not THAT bad. your's is probably 10x's worse than ours.

Just wanted you guys to know, i was helping a friend find a fix for the same problem. 210k, 2003 Nissan murano shifting issues, codes etc. Anyhow, i usually take cars to different side mechanics dependent on pricing. One mechanic said "needs tranny" off the bat without answering anymore questions and would cost $2,000. Because he would not even look at the car. I decided to take the car to my father in law who is a master tech. Father in law does not even look at cars for me for free. after all said and done and worries of cost. besides all the small things, it turned out to be air intake tube causing this "sluggish, wouldn't accelerate, and shifting hard". I looked online for answers including this fourm but just wanted you guys to know.

Good for you Ace. Give you father-in-law a nice tip!

Thanks for all the great input. I just purchased an 08 sentra and am also experiencing the same whine sound. Didnt hear anything on the 2 test drives. Only until later that evening on my trip from Lafayette to New Orleans, about 30 to 45 min. in I started hearing the whining noise. The noise is not that bad but does become more noticeable passed 60 mph. I purchased the car with check engine lite on. The salesman said that this light was on because of a transmission temp. sensor that was failed but wont affect the operation of transmission. Don't worry, I didnt exactly believe the guy I remember when you could look up check engine trouble codes by shorting out terminals on the diagnostic connector and reading the flash sequence code
From reading this forum it sounds like a drain, flush, and refill is in order here. 135,000 miles on car and I'm waiting call back to see what has been done, if anything, so that I can move forward. Guessing I could smell and look at fluid currently in car and tell about how old it is? Any input this would be good. I am mechanically inclined but I dont think I have the proper flushing equipment. will probably search for a homemade contraption on the internet but Ive really never looked into this other than basically a flush is running fluid through the tranny until flushed out.

Also gonna look into the engine coolant as was posted prior. No telling what mix is in this car at the moment so maybe some input on a proper radiator flush would be good. Guessing this way Ill atleast know the proper coolant mix was added. Temps here in louisiana range from 40 degrees one day and 80 degrees the next But we are likely going to stay around 85 to 90 degrees really soon.

Hey everyone, my first post here.

My wife has a 2010 Rogue and she has been experiencing the dreaded CVT whine, and in the last 3 or 4 long trips the CVT goes into fail safe mode. It happens after about two hours of highway driving @ 65-70 mph speeds. We have had to pull over and wait for about 20 minutes before it would be ok to drive again.
Then yesterday it happened again but this time after I pulled over and waited about 5 minutes, I shifted into D but the car would not move. I shut it off and let it cool down for 15 minutes and then started it and it drove ok for the rest of the trip (an hour and a half).
One thing different this time is that the check engine light on came on. This morning I hokked up my code reader and it's throwing code P0744 which I think it says torque converter intermittent or something like that.
What is the tranny warranty for the 2010 Rougues? I think it's 100k miles but I am not 100% sure. Our Rogue has 96k miles right now.

I don't know the warranty period. I thought that they extended it to 120k but I really don't remember. My Rogue died well before 100K so you are lucky.

Be careful when coming off of the highway and making a left turn across traffic.
The car will not be able to get out of the way of the oncoming vehicles because it will just creep along ever so slowly and you will get creamed.
This is a major health hazard.

I would suggest taking it to the dealer and getting documentation that shows you have reported the problem.
Do this because lots of others have gotten the run-around from dealers. I've gotten it from three different dealers.
The run-around lasted until the transmission finally died.

You need to be preparing a legal case while you are also trying to get it fixed.
Hopefully you will have a better experience that others have.

mpveillon wrote: ...Any input this would be good. I am mechanically inclined but I dont think I have the proper flushing equipment. will probably search for a homemade contraption on the internet but Ive really never looked into this other than basically a flush is running fluid through the tranny until flushed out.

I personally would avoid a transmission flush, if you are willing to do regular drain and fill. If you do your own oil changes, just start doing a drain and fill on the CVT with every oil change until you feel the CVT fluid is clean. Then do a drain and fill every 30k or every other year. A small hand-operated vacuum pump/brake bleeder attached to the fluid line connected to the radiator can help get more fluid out.

The reason I would avoid the flush (beyond cost) is some service centers may have residual fluid in their flush equipment (although I assume the dealer would know better). Even a small amount of ATF can cause serious damage to your transmission.

The fluid in a CVT has to do a lot of jobs and staying within spec is very important. It needs to operate the torque converter, provide hydraulic pressure to power the pulleys, transfer heat, lubricate parts... but still provide enough grip on the pulleys to operate the transmission. As such, any fluid (ATF, off-brand CVT fluid) that was designed to provide lower metal-metal friction will ruin the transmission.

ENEOS has a decent overview:

http://eneos.us/product/7

CVT Warrant extension can be found on -> http://www.nissanassist.com/ProgramDetails.php?menu=2

According to the FAQ
"The existing powertrain warranty coverage of 5 years/60,000 miles will be extended at no cost, for CVT repairs, replacements or related towing, to 10 years/120,000 miles, whichever comes first. "

2008 to 2010 Rogues were included in the extension according to the chart.


Hope this helps...

Thanks fellas. We are dropping off the car at the dealer on Thursday.

I had my CVT replaced due to failure at 72K miles. Did I get new fluid? I don't see anything about it on my invoice.

Yeah, they wouldn't re-use fluid from a blown CVT.

Ddflosrt wrote:I see a lot of chrome pieces have tiny rust spots on them on a lot of armadas and pathfinders and Nissan won't warranty it.

My wife and I just got a Rouge SL this past Sunday and I think we have this problem already. While she was wiping down the Rouge this morning she told me to come out and check these tiny brown spots on the chrome moldings. After looking at it, I am pretty sure it is rust. It is all over the chrome moldings around the windows and on the chrome bumper. What a bummer
We have an appoinment to go back this coming Sunday for the dealer to have a look.

Rust on a 2014!?!?
OMG!

If that is truly rust, I would say that Nissan has into a junk dealer....

ALOHA808 wrote:

Ddflosrt wrote:I see a lot of chrome pieces have tiny rust spots on them on a lot of armadas and pathfinders and Nissan won't warranty it.

My wife and I just got a Rouge SL this past Sunday and I think we have this problem already. While she was wiping down the Rouge this morning she told me to come out and check these tiny brown spots on the chrome moldings. After looking at it, I am pretty sure it is rust. It is all over the chrome moldings around the windows and on the chrome bumper. What a bummer
We have an appoinment to go back this coming Sunday for the dealer to have a look.

I worked at a dealer years ago and it was common for a lot of cars to have those brown spots on the chrome pieces. It's actually rail dust picked up from the railroads when they get transported across the country.

Spray the chrome pieces with water and try some steel wool on them. Usually that took care of the rail dust.

It seems like its more frowned upon to change the trans fluid after a certain mileage. I'd change it in a heartbeat but if its more likely to fail being that I have 135000 miles and do not know if its ever been changed then I may have to ride out the storm. Any input here? PS. I did check the fluid after a 15 min. drive and its a hair past the full mark and there was grit on the dipstick end as well. Fluid was clear though.

@lulimet Thanks for the tip, but I think I'll try something less abrasive. I previously scratched my chrome wheels on my past truck trying to scrub off water spots. And that was with one of those green scour pads.

Most detail shops and dealers use a product called IronX. It is save for the finish and plastics. Just spray it on, wait and then rinse it off. It removes all iron contaminates from the finish.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4E38Kemdw8

mpveillon wrote:It seems like its more frowned upon to change the trans fluid after a certain mileage. I'd change it in a heartbeat but if its more likely to fail being that I have 135000 miles and do not know if its ever been changed then I may have to ride out the storm. Any input here? PS. I did check the fluid after a 15 min. drive and its a hair past the full mark and there was grit on the dipstick end as well. Fluid was clear though.

Do a transmission drain and fill, and do so regularly. As mentioned above, CVT fluid is a crucial part of a functioning transmission (has to create grip between the pulleys and the belt, create hydraulic pressure and lubricate parts). It needs to be changed regularly, much more so than other types of transmissions. Especially if you see grit change the oil or haven't done so in a while, change it. It will likely go bad before it changes color.

A drain and fill should not damage your transmission, regardless of mileage. If you do a flush, there is some chance of damage if not done properly. And do not put any chemical, cleaner or additive in the fluid, as they could do significant damage. Use only approved CVT fluid and fill so that it is below full when up to temperature.

Generally the "don't do it if you haven't done it in a while" recommendations in an engine or transmission have to do with adding strong detergents (especially in the form of additives or flush chemicals) that dislodge sludge and create clogs in narrow passages. However, regular fluid will not have strong detergents and will only slowly dissolve any deposits that may have formed over time.