Yes, there is black smoke coming out the exhaust. When I open a plug in the intake, approx 2mm it does help lean it out, but it still reads 10:1. It does however make it lean enough that it will tach up a little. It will tach to around 4000 when I have the vac leak. Seems all that tells me is that I am very rich. Still need to determine why I am so rich.

Give it more vacuum leak then by one of the many means I mentioned above.

Try running the z32 MAF with the stock injectors. That will lean it out as well.

I am going to wait till Sat. It is outside and the temperature is supposed to warm up a little.

I am wondering if I have the fuel routed correct. Does it matter which way the fuel goes through the fuel rail? I have it running clockwise, looking from the top/front. It goes in the back (by the firewall) and the return is the front of the rail. The pressure regulator is ahead of the rail (between the tank and the injectors).

Can the cam sensor be off 180 degrees. It is inside the distributor, so I am assuming that if I have timing correct, then the cam sensor is on. If the crank is 180 degrees off, will it even run? I set the timing as follows.
1. Turn motor till no. 1 cylinder is tdc.
2. Set cams so # 1 cylinder lobes are facing out on both cams
3. Set timing chain marks on cam gear marks and on idler gear mark. I adjusted the cams to make them fit the timing chain. In the end the cams are facing straight out.
4. Set distributor on #1 cylinder when inserted in gears.
5. Start engine and adjust distributor with timing light to 20 degrees advance.

I don't think I can be 180 degrees off but just want to check my thinking.

The fuel is supposed to come IN to the fuel rail kinda by the passenger side strut tower, and OUT the back of the engine, returning to the tank. USUALLY if you have this wrong, you get a lean condition or it wont start though. Worth swapping them around to see what happens.

The cam lobes should be kinda in a 10 and 2 position with cylinder #1 at TDC... I guess more of a 9:30 and 2:30 position...
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpd ... KA24DE.PDF

That is the way the lobes look. I have the right number of links between the chain marks, and if I move the back chain one link it moves the cams around 20 degrees. Have you ever heard of the chains jumping a link?

No. I've heard of them jumping many links, and destroying the engine though.

Have you done a compression test?

Checked the cam sensor and distributer. They look good. It is blowing black smoke. If I bypass the maf, the car idles pretty good with an a/f of around 14. It will wrap up, but will not tach past 2700 without the maf (safe mode). If I connect the maf (either stock or Z32) it turns to crap. If I open the piping so most of the air is bypassing the maf, it runs better, but even with a small amout of air coming through the maf, it turns real rich. I don't think it is timing now, because it runs pretty good with the maf disconnected.

Comperssion is good

I think I found the problem. With the stock maf it runs leaner than with the Z32 maf. I finally started getting codes for the z32 maf. At first the codes were sporatic, then every time I turn the ignition. I think it is the maf. Also, I checked the fuel and finally decided to check the fuel regulator. It has a build on gauge. I installed a gauge in line and the gauge on the regulator is reading wrong. Way too high. When I turn the fuel down to around 15 lbs on the bad gauge (around 30 on the good gauge) it starts to run better. I am going to reinstall the stock maf, and adjust the fuel tomorrow (if the snow stops) and see what I have.

By the way, I purchased a scantool.net scanxl reader and palmer performance scan xl software. After messing with it for a week I finally went to their site and found everyone using it has problems with nissan. Will not stay connected. My recommendation is to look elsewhere. Can't get tech support to reply for fix.

Yeah man, Ultraguage is where it's at.

Stock fuel pressure at idle should be around 38 psi. You said you are running an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator? Do you still have the factory fuel rail? Can you swap the factory FPR back in?

I don't have the stock regulator, but I did get a new gauge and it looks good now. I only have the fuel at around 32 idling, so I will bump it up a little.

Thanks for the help.

All is well then?

Finally getting somewhere over here! Good to here i was getting worried it was somthing crazy that would be impossible to solve.<-- i mean tear down everything to solve.....

Finally got it going. Thanks for the help. It was mostly a fuel problem, but the z32 maf was bad intermittantly. Got a new maf, got the fuel regulator gauge, and it starts and runs pretty good. Haven't driven it much yet, because of bad weather. I am going to change the plugs to colder plugs and replace the plug wires. It has a small stumble at around 6000 rpm, but otherwise runs good. I have changed back to the z32 maf, larger fuel injectors, and programed ecu and it seems to run good. Is a little hard starting, but that may be the wires and plugs. I burned one of the wire and have it taped right now.

I should have looked at the fuel problem earlier, but I was convinced (because of the rich condition) that it was either the maf or tps. Well at least now, I am a lot more familiar with this car and know a lot more about the control system and turbo set up. Thanks again.

AWESOME how did i miss the CONCLUSION!!!!!!!

Happy boosting dont get hyped and turn it up till boom. Never ever thought id get bitten by the boost bug but at the strip running my buddies sr in a grudge match.......I just kept turnin it up

spike to 11 psi then 12 psi then 14psi the boost would always stablized at 4psi? Thought it was the gauge---->

The whole time it turns out ripping the kit off to sell i found a GIANT boost leak right off the compressor housing. Yep so was running 9.6 in the 1/8 on 4psi .........

In the end it was a good thing. Just think if i didnt have that leak! FMU 4 deg. retard at 14psi. I feel dumb just typin it.