How different do you think the R6's would hook in a straight line vs MT DRs? Probably not as well, I'm guessing?

Darius wrote:How different do you think the R6's would hook in a straight line vs MT DRs? Probably not as well, I'm guessing?

do you know any tires that are rated (y) that are as good as MT DR's? i have MT DR's on my car now but in 17" but they are not allowed at some events, as they say ( the tire is know to having a blow out at speeds of 200+mph)

I'm curious. Where exactly did you get the rb30e motor or block? Is there anyone that still sells them?

raw brokerage

exodus5547097 wrote:I'm curious. Where exactly did you get the rb30e motor or block? Is there anyone that still sells them?

i have 2 of them that i just got in for $1800 each.

I got three blocks shipped from Aussie Land for $2800 shipped.....hahahaha......

No, the source will not be named or given out. So don't try.......

so a lil update.... finished with the front end update but im having issues with the alternator keeps breaking the belts. the rebuild company keeps saying its good but i cant even drive 10 miles with out the belt breaking. but heres pix

Do you still have the block that ate that piston if so pm me or text if you want to sell 719-250-4468

did you feel around the pully? maybe something is tearing up the belt or the alignment is tweeked some how.

Post a pic of the pulley arrangement and the old belt mark inside and outside

Yellow4g63 wrote:did you feel around the pully? maybe something is tearing up the belt or the alignment is tweeked some how.

well i know its been a long time but i had to take a break from the car to miss it and to get things sorted out. so the last time i was having issues with the timing, i did fix the issue which was something with the AEM cant tell you what the actual fix was but i know what i did that made it change. how ever after this issue was fixed the engine (head) failed on me big time. its my fault in the end for not over preparing the engine but in time sequence it didnt seem like a big deal to upgrade cams an leave the stock rated valve train in. this resulted in lots of bent valves. the springs were to weak for the cams that i now have (hks 280/290 lift of 10.9) so needless to say rebuild of the head. when i took the head off i notice on cyc #6 the spark plug tip broke off in the cyc in messed up the pistons and the head (quench pad area) so i am removing the quench pad area on the both sides and while i was in there i went ahead an did some bowl porting work aswell so these engine should be able to breathe very well for the turbo i have on it.

what do you guys think.

Why on earth would you run that large of cams with stock springs??

I don't want to make fun of you, but you have had more issues with this setup that all seem to be related to your doings.. maybe it's time to have someone with more experience build this for you unless you like to do things over and over..

RRRRB wrote:Why on earth would you run that large of cams with stock springs??

I don't want to make fun of you, but you have had more issues with this setup that all seem to be related to your doings.. maybe it's time to have someone with more experience build this for you unless you like to do things over and over..

well not all of it was my doing but i can say that not many people around here do big things with the RB's so the shops i go to have very little experience on it. i dont do much work myself. but the springs werent stock they are the basic level of supertech.

but making big HP is not an easy task. if i were to stay with 700hp or less i prob wouldnt have had many issues if any. but we live an learn.

You don't need that large of cams to make 800... boozted3 made 770 on small drop in tomeis on a stock block 26 with a smaller turbo..
If your gonna pay to have work done I suggest paying someone that knows what there doing..lol
how high are you revving this thing?

RRRRB wrote:You don't need that large of cams to make 800... boozted3 made 770 on small drop in tomeis on a stock block 26 with a smaller turbo..
If your gonna pay to have work done I suggest paying someone that knows what there doing..lol
how high are you revving this thing?

the first time around i hit 775 but i was shooting for over 1000whp. this time i have a different machine shop putting it together. before now it only revs to 7800.

so i picked up my head from the machine shop. hopefully better results this time around

be careful handling that thing with the cams in!! easy way to tweak a valve

You are one determined RB owner, I'll give you that! Cool car and fun thread to read.

Are you going to have it professionally dyno tuned after it's all back together?

mattblancarte wrote:You are one determined RB owner, I'll give you that! Cool car and fun thread to read.

Are you going to have it professionally dyno tuned after it's all back together?

well ill street tune it and then eventually ill tune it on the dyno but i does my own tuning. hopefully it makes even more power with the modes i did to the head.

Can you explain your street tuning process? I'm curious as to how you go about it.

I can understand maybe doing a basic idle-tune and low throttle/rpm tune so you can puttz around and drive it to a dyno... but trying to street tune a high-hp RB just sounds unrealistic (and extremely dangerous to yourself and more importantly, others).

Why not just throw it on the dyno right away?

mattblancarte wrote:Can you explain your street tuning process? I'm curious as to how you go about it.

I can understand maybe doing a basic idle-tune and low throttle/rpm tune so you can puttz around and drive it to a dyno... but trying to street tune a high-hp RB just sounds unrealistic (and extremely dangerous to yourself and more importantly, others).

Why not just throw it on the dyno right away?

I start out tuning drivability part then coming into boost up to about 15 psi or so ( on highway of course) right now low boost is around 27psi so I usually go on the toll road to do high end pulls. But I spend a lot of time on the low which makes the WOT easy to and quick. Usually only need a few good pulls at high gear to be on point for afr. After that then it's Dyno time for timing.

I live in a few big metroplex so not hard to fine good highways that not so busy at certain times.

I street tuned my car on 27ish psi and E85, it can be a bit hairy on higher boost, and it must hook solid to get a good read on whats going on. Just doing it late at night, nobody around.

RRRRB wrote:I street tuned my car on 27ish psi and E85, it can be a bit hairy on higher boost, and it must hook solid to get a good read on whats going on. Just doing it late at night, nobody around.

That's right. Once you get the hang of it it's pretty much down hill unless u never tuned a high hp car then it will be scary.

Thanks for sharing that, guys. Interesting stuff.

Now, for more of a practical question: Why spend all that money on parts and then choose to tune your car in the least optimal environment (i.e., a public road, probably in the dark or with street lighting, moving at speeds reaching 130+ mph, etc.)?

Assuming you don't have mechanical issues, you could probably rent an hour on a legit dyno for $150 or less. Even in a crappy scenario, you could be on and off the dyno several times for less than $500. You could even defer to a real professional who has truly mastered your ECU type... Have your car tuned for $500 and be done with it. Then, maybe poke around on the street after you know it's at least safe to do WOT pulls, then analyze readouts and tune to your own liking.

Also, how can you really keep an eye on the critical engine readouts when you are going 100+ mph? I have quite a lot of seat time in quite a few different vehicle types, and I normally just don't read gauges at that speed.

I apologize for peppering you with questions, but I am truly trying to understand the other side of the coin here. If this were my car, I would probably choose to go straight to the dyno... So I want to just make sure I am not way off base because you both sound experienced and like you've had some success with your methods.

Maybe I'm just paranoid.

mattblancarte wrote:Thanks for sharing that, guys. Interesting stuff.

Now, for more of a practical question: Why spend all that money on parts and then choose to tune your car in the least optimal environment (i.e., a public road, probably in the dark or with street lighting, moving at speeds reaching 130+ mph, etc.)?

Assuming you don't have mechanical issues, you could probably rent an hour on a legit dyno for $150 or less. Even in a crappy scenario, you could be on and off the dyno several times for less than $500. You could even defer to a real professional who has truly mastered your ECU type... Have your car tuned for $500 and be done with it. Then, maybe poke around on the street after you know it's at least safe to do WOT pulls, then analyze readouts and tune to your own liking.

Also, how can you really keep an eye on the critical engine readouts when you are going 100+ mph? I have quite a lot of seat time in quite a few different vehicle types, and I normally just don't read gauges at that speed.

I apologize for peppering you with questions, but I am truly trying to understand the other side of the coin here. If this were my car, I would probably choose to go straight to the dyno... So I want to just make sure I am not way off base because you both sound experienced and like you've had some success with your methods.

Maybe I'm just paranoid.

well to answer you question from my prospective, i am a professional tuner so why pay someone else to tune it if i already know it? i have tuned plenty of high Hp cars some more than mines.

also its not about a tuner being good are not but do they know your engine well or not. i happen to know nissans, toyotas and evos very well but not others. not because i just cant get them down but that's not my customer base for some reason. but i can take the same approach to any vehicle doesn't mean ill come out with the same results as far as power but it will be safe and diff powerful tho.

i usually rent out a dyno for $400 all day but street tuning is way different than dyno tuning. unless the facility you go to has about half million dollars in equipment it would be very hard to replicate the road air flow, which means your tune will be slightly off, soo you street tune for the real world tune then take to dyno for max tq output. in my case anyways.

in my case even when i do street tune first then take to the dyno, i still will be there all day just b/c its not a quick thing. i have prob never had a car on a dyno for an hour an was done. unless it had min mods done. i street tune all my customers cars first.

if you have a good ecu and set things up right then data logging is easy an can see the critical things and if your ecu permits you can have safety features than will not allow the car to go beyond the thresholds you set it to. so that part is easy to. its all in what the tuner knows.

There is really nothing critical to watch while doing a pull.. i have my eye on the wideband but even that's not needed.. start rich.

Ignition timing I always setup conservative and don't mess with it much on the street, I do pull over and check plugs when power starts getting higher.

Real world tuning is defiantly different then being on the dyno, Im not a pro tuner but I've tuned quite a few of my own cars and understand what I'm doing.

I guess I tune on the street cause I'm lazy to be honest, my car is probably making 650-700whp on a street tune and I know there is alot more in it. I won't be going after anymore power until it goes to the dyno.. it's starting to break loose the 275 50 15 mickeys at 100mph on a 3rd gear roll in..

Dyno tuning is safer and more controlled, but tuning on the street works just fine.. my car hasn't been on a dyno in years.. and has gone thru alot of changes over that time.

What mods did you do to the head after you floated valves? I don't think there's anything wrong with Supertech dual valve springs. You said your cams were 10.9mm lift. Those springs should handle those cams no problem I would think.

chad b. wrote:What mods did you do to the head after you floated valves? I don't think there's anything wrong with Supertech dual valve springs. You said your cams were 10.9mm lift. Those springs should handle those cams no problem I would think.

i re did the whole valve train, ported the bowl area, cut the quench pads out. thats pretty much it. on the springs i hope they not to stiff tho that they wear out my cams to fast.

I have supertech springs and spinning almost 9k

RRRRB wrote:I have supertech springs and spinning almost 9k

On your rb30? What turbo u have?