so i have been having some issues with the car staying running for long periods of time. a lil up date. i had the intake manifold welded thinking it was strong enough hold, not my case. i had to reweld it but with a v-cut this time and i hope it stays together. i upgraded to AEM the V1. i also upgranded my cams again from 272's to 280/290's. i have a video of it but the real Q i have is i have always had this noise coming from the head machine shop says everything looks good and the shims are in specs but i cant figure out why its so loud. do you know why?????

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXCweQYxs1s[/youtube]

I think that noise is normal mine also makes a little mechanical noise, you need to idle that thing up more, idle is set way to low for those cams.. why such big cams in a street car?

RRRRB wrote:I think that noise is normal mine also makes a little mechanical noise, you need to idle that thing up more, idle is set way to low for those cams.. why such big cams in a street car?

oh ok, well that's good thing for me and that noise. that was set from my previous setting on the idle I adjusted now tho around 1000 rpms. just b/c I guess

If you add some more fuel at idle it might clean up and not lope so much.

Yellow4g63 wrote:If you add some more fuel at idle it might clean up and not lope so much.

well at that time it was very rich but once it warms up it doesn't lope as much, which I kinda like the lope...

Reduce the warm-up enrichment table in AEMPro and it'll solve the rich on cold issue. You may have to offset the reduced fuel amount by bumping up the initial/start pulse coolant table in the 'advanced start' area of AEMPro

Booztd 3 wrote:Reduce the warm-up enrichment table in AEMPro and it'll solve the rich on cold issue. You may have to offset the reduced fuel amount by bumping up the initial/start pulse coolant table in the 'advanced start' area of AEMPro

i got the startup tune good. when i did the video it was from my previous setup tune in the fall weather not in 36 F temps but she runs good now at normal temps the lope sound kinda goes away tho but hope it runs bad a**. i will prob street tune this weekend.

What wire harness did you run on? Rb26 head, right? Fascinated about this build.

exodus5547097 wrote:What wire harness did you run on? Rb26 head, right? Fascinated about this build.

I have the rb25 harness. I use to have an rb25 then I built this n just put it in. Yes it's a rb26 head. Thanks I hope it comes out nice I have new hp goals now.

how much power are you trying to make now?!

RRRRB wrote:how much power are you trying to make now?!

A good dyno queen number of 1000 whp. But daily of 850whp

Why do you always change up the setup? From what we have seen it hasnt really proven reliable in any form yet.. why not work on that?!

Not trying to knock your build, its nice.. just trying to understand why the constant change..

Is the rest of the car upto the challange of that much power? rear end axles tranny etc etc?

RRRRB wrote:Why do you always change up the setup? From what we have seen it hasnt really proven reliable in any form yet.. why not work on that?!

Not trying to knock your build, its nice.. just trying to understand why the constant change..

Is the rest of the car upto the challange of that much power? rear end axles tranny etc etc?

Well I the change up came from me having get new turbo so this turbo is of course way bigger but with maybe 300-500rpms slower spool. But at the same psi as the old turbo way faster. I've also changed things like ecu n map sensor to handle more power. The motor has been good just not turbo or some random stuff. As far as rear end hhhhhhhmmmm. I hope Q45 stuff is up for it but I will say I prob won't see any track time atleast from a dig anyways. Most events I go to are roll races.

I plan to make not more changes n let it rip n see what see gets and take it up to 43psi which is way I say 1000hp. It's already to scary on the streets at 25 psi so I wouldn't be driving it like that speed really comes on with this turbo. The front end almost comes up in 1st n 2nd gear.

Please proof read your posts. Your grammar and spelling are so bad, it's hard to understand what you're trying to explain some times. Now, what size turbo are you running? Better yet, what size tires are you running to handle that much power without doing half mile burn outs from a 40 roll? That's a lot of power for an s-chassis!

chad b. wrote:Please proof read your posts. Your grammar and spelling are so bad, it's hard to understand what you're trying to explain some times. Now, what size turbo are you running? Better yet, what size tires are you running to handle that much power without doing half mile burn outs from a 40 roll? That's a lot of power for an s-chassis!

Sorry about that. Sometimes I'm doing it from my phone but I'll watch out for that. I'm running a 7879 comp turbo. On the tires I currently have 275/50/17 but I'm going to prep my body for my other rims to put a 305/35-40/18 on the back. I usually don't do a 40 roll but a 60ish is good and yes it still spins.

You need a smaller wheel.. you will never hook that power with a slim profile tire..

RRRRB wrote:You need a smaller wheel.. you will never hook that power with a slim profile tire..

oh see thats where i know nothing about, tires..... so what would be an idea size tire?

I run a 275 50 15.. a lot of side wall is what you need, an 18 inch wheel takes that away.. my car dead hooks 500hp in first gear on the street... that's with 4.63 gears as well..

RRRRB wrote:I run a 275 50 15.. a lot of side wall is what you need, an 18 inch wheel takes that away.. my car dead hooks 500hp in first gear on the street... that's with 4.63 gears as well..

Would the 300zx rims be good enough for my goals

300zx wheels are 16's.. not as many tire choices.. I have weld 15 inch wheels over my rear z32 brakes.

RRRRB wrote:300zx wheels are 16's.. not as many tire choices.. I have weld 15 inch wheels over my rear z32 brakes.

Oh dang. I guess I better start checking out rims.

they will work dont get me wrong, just not sure if the offset would be optimal or tire size... I havent personally looked into it on an S chassis

FYI i run a 6.5 inch backspace wheel 9.25 inch's wide and it clears my 275 50 15 mickeys with my rear fenders rolled

RRRRB wrote:they will work dont get me wrong, just not sure if the offset would be optimal or tire size... I havent personally looked into it on an S chassis

FYI i run a 6.5 inch backspace wheel 9.25 inch's wide and it clears my 275 50 15 mickeys with my rear fenders rolled

Is there a big diff from a 40 an 50 in the tire size height?

RRRRB wrote:they will work dont get me wrong, just not sure if the offset would be optimal or tire size... I havent personally looked into it on an S chassis

FYI i run a 6.5 inch backspace wheel 9.25 inch's wide and it clears my 275 50 15 mickeys with my rear fenders rolled

WOW, nice fitment. What wheels are they?

J2fast wrote:

RRRRB wrote:they will work dont get me wrong, just not sure if the offset would be optimal or tire size... I havent personally looked into it on an S chassis

FYI i run a 6.5 inch backspace wheel 9.25 inch's wide and it clears my 275 50 15 mickeys with my rear fenders rolled

Is there a big diff from a 40 an 50 in the tire size height?

not a huge difference, the biggest is from the reduction in wheel size..

Is there a big diff from a 40 an 50 in the tire size height?[/quote][/quote]

not a huge difference, the biggest is from the reduction in wheel size..[/quote]

What will be the difference. I'm wheel dumb.

Tire height

RRRRB wrote:Tire height

well I know that, I mean performance wise

yeah anytime you can get more sidewall its going to help with shock and you'll get a more "conformed" contact patch to the pavement.

The tires i switched to are the same width as my other set, and only a half inch taller. Having the 15 inch wheel vs my other 18 inch wheel provides much more cusion and a huge difference in traction.. If you get some mickey thompson radials on the smallest wheel you can fit i can promise you it will make a dramatic difference.

RRRRB wrote:yeah anytime you can get more sidewall its going to help with shock and you'll get a more "conformed" contact patch to the pavement.

The tires i switched to are the same width as my other set, and only a half inch taller. Having the 15 inch wheel vs my other 18 inch wheel provides much more cusion and a huge difference in traction.. If you get some mickey thompson radials on the smallest wheel you can fit i can promise you it will make a dramatic difference.

ok thanks i understand that a lil more now. i was thinking about trying the Hoosier R6 b/c of the type of races i usually do, which is mile runs, or long high end runs. do you think those will do better at that? and the reason i came up with that is at most mile tracks here MT are deemed not safe b/c of the speed and R6 are safe for speeds over 186mph