Gort400 wrote: ↑

Wed Mar 09, 2022 9:56 am

Thanks. Sorry to be the guy with all these questions but this is a tough one. I will jack car up on stands today and see if I can get underneath. I dont see where I can get to the A/C compressor bolts from the top. I can only see one of them. Maybe I need to remove more stuff. Also I cant locate a diagonal tension rod from the top. I will look when underneath. Thanks again. will keep you posted. Weather has turned cold again. May wait till it warms up a bit.

Don't worry about asking lots of questions. This is the most action this forum has seen in years!

I think when you get under the car, things will get easier for you.

As a side note, it appears that Hitachi has discontinued remanufacturing a lot of their alternators, including this one. So not only is the factory alternator discontinued, but my backup plan of buying a Hitachi rebuild from Rock Auto is a no-go. I don't need one now, but when the day comes, what is everyone's next best option? I'm thinking finding an old-school rebuilder in town, or buying parts and rebuilding myself? I sure miss the good old days where you could call Joe or T.J. and parts would magically arrive at your door a few days later.

Q451990 wrote: ↑

Wed Mar 09, 2022 10:39 am

As a side note, it appears that Hitachi has discontinued remanufacturing a lot of their alternators, including this one. So not only is the factory alternator discontinued, but my backup plan of buying a Hitachi rebuild from Rock Auto is a no-go. I don't need one now, but when the day comes, what is everyone's next best option? I'm thinking finding an old-school rebuilder in town, or buying parts and rebuilding myself? I sure miss the good old days where you could call Joe or T.J. and parts would magically arrive at your door a few days later.

Bummer. I think the 'old school' rebuilder is the way to go, with the keyword being 'old'. Pretty soon all of us old guys are going to be gone, and then what---in today's throw-away world?
On a more positive note, I bought both nissan packaged bearings thru amayama not that long ago. Now, they are simply the green seal NSK bearings, which can be sourced elsewhere, but at least they had Japan and Korea COO stamped on the seals (NOT China).
I sourced the diode rectifier thru AMF industrial (China of course), and I found one WAI/Transpo voltage regulator on fleabay (probably also China). I have no idea where to source OE Hitachi piece parts for those, but maybe the professional rebuilders still can (I would verify).

OK, after a day and a half rain delay im back at it. I thought I would take off all the belts before I jack her up. I'm vertically challenged so I don't want to have to climb up on a step stool to remove the A/C compressor belt before dropping the A/C compressor. QUESTION: Should I move this black cylinder in attached picture link? Is it some sort of transmission filter? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EjOFPo ... sp=sharing

That would be my guess, but I'm not sure. I don't have that on my 90, but the factory had a kit available in their efforts to cure transmission failures. Do the lines loop back to the transmission? If so, I'd get it out of the way if you think it'll help.

Gort400 wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 10, 2022 11:23 am

Is it some sort of transmission filter?

Yes, that's a transmission fluid filter. Shouldn't be a problem to detach and move it if necessary. From the looks of the leaking hoses it might not be a bad idea to remove it and cut some new hose to length when you reinstall it.

OK, Mine is a 95. I think its part of the transmission lines going into the radiator. It looks like there is a bracket. I will try to loosen. Thanks

Ryantzer, I will look at that too. I have the oil leak from the valve cover gaskets. I don't think I would be able to do that big job. Thanks

I’m glad the 97+ Qs put the alternator at the top. Mine went out unexpectedly last year, but I was able to pull it and drop a new one in within 2 hours. On the 4th gen Maxima, it’s also in that unforgiving down below location.

However, the starter is easy to access in the Maxima, but the Q45…I’ve already paid 3 shops to replace it 3 times. But the fuel pressure regulator that was causing extended cranks, was replaced halfway thru my last starter. Hopefully this AC DELCO reman is the last one

Update: No work yesterday, rain day...again. Arrggg. Today 36 degrees and 40mph winds this AM but continued. I first worked at removing two stripped fan blade mount studs in the water pump. Completed. Parts on order at Oreillys. Then I moved to the lower bracket. Front two screws removed and one inner screw. I removed the mounting bracket attaching a pipe to the lower bracket. Then I saw where there is another inner lower bracket screw under the round torsion bar? First I have to remove the big screw and bolt going through the center of the round bar. It would not budge. I hit it, used PB Blaster...but no-go. I stopped for the day due to my patience wearing thin. I may have to buy a impact wrench. Do you think a Milwaukee battery one will work? If not any suggestions...battery or electric. I don't have an air compressor and am doing this on my driveway in the back yard. Thanks again!

Gort400 wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 12, 2022 2:35 pm

Front two screws removed and one inner screw. I removed the mounting bracket attaching a pipe to the lower bracket. Then I saw where there is another inner lower bracket screw under the round torsion bar? First I have to remove the big screw and bolt going through the center of the round bar. It would not budge. I hit it, used PB Blaster...but no-go. I stopped for the day due to my patience wearing thin. I may have to buy a impact wrench. Do you think a Milwaukee battery one will work? If not any suggestions...battery or electric. I don't have an air compressor and am doing this on my driveway in the back yard. Thanks again!

you are correct on the sequence to remove the torsion bar and then the bracket.
They are (should be) torqued to 87 lb-ft, not more. I know you are a way from reassembly, but the thru bolt to the tension rod bushing should be torqued with weight on wheels.
if you don't you may tear the puck open (jelly oozes out).
of course, depending on the age of your bushing, no guarantees that it won't be happy anyway.
check the specs on the impact. they are usually very optimistic. So, derate by factor of 2 minimum

I only recently purchased an impact driver, and use hex adapters on it for some things. I don't know how I ever lived without it. If you have other battery tools, I'd buy whatever uses the same batteries.

All of that said, I don't think I've removed the tension rod to replace the alternator.

Not sure if this posted. Having internet problems today. If duplicate post, I apologize. Update: No work yesterday, rain day...again. Arrggg.
Today 36 degrees and 40mph winds this AM but continued. I first worked at removing two stripped fan blade mount studs in the water pump. Completed. Parts on order at Oreillys. Then I moved to the lower bracket. Front two screws removed and one inner screw. I removed the
mounting bracket attaching a pipe to the lower bracket. Then I saw where there is another inner lower bracket screw under the round torsion bar? First I have to remove the big screw and bolt going through the center of the round bar. It would not budge. I hit it, used PB Blaster...but no-go. I stopped for the day due to my patience wearing thin. I may have to buy a impact wrench. Do you think a Milwaukee battery one will work? If not any suggestions...battery or electric. I don't have an air compressor and am doing this on my driveway in the back yard. Thanks again! This is the tough bolt. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1e2RlmC ... sp=sharing

3Q Jay, Thank you. I will torque to 87 ft lb when reinstalling. Is that the bracket bolts and the bolt thru bushing? I'm pretty sure the torsion bar is the original one.

Q451990, good news...I called the head usher at my church and said I was not going to make it tomorrow. He kept asking questions. My reply..."Car being repaired. Mechanic is very slow and having trouble fixing car. I'm giving him some lenience" Pause for a few minutes texting then...BTW....I'M THE MECHANIC. HA HA Well he asked what was going on. He said he can drop his impact wrench over tomorrow. The big man was looking out for me!

I'm removing the lower bracket and tension rod because earlier in one of the posting someone said it would make more room. It sure looks like it will. I will update.

Thank you gentleman!

Gort400 wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 12, 2022 4:51 pm

3Q Jay, Thank you. I will torque to 87 ft lb when reinstalling. Is that the bracket bolts and the bolt thru bushing? I'm pretty sure the torsion bar is the original one.

you're welcome
yes, 87 on all 4 bracket mounting bolts, the thru bolt in the tension rod, and also the two nuts that hold the tension rod to the lower control arm (I believe you will find it easier to remove the whole tension rod than to fight it).

3Q Jay,
Roger That!

Thank You!

Update. I got the lower bracket and tension rod removed. Car up on stands and wooden ramps. More room to navigate. I now am moving to the A/C compressor. I see two lower bolts and one upper right bolt. Is there a 4th bolt? Also I plan to lower A/C compressor onto a stack of wooden blocks a few inches. Does that sound ok? Tks in advance.

progress! Yes, 4th bolt on A/C is unfortunately a itch
you will snake a series of 3/8 extensions and a swivel above the motor mount if I remember right.
I used some lightweight rope to support the a/c compressor. you do want to keep the weight off the lines.

3Q Jay,
Thanks. I will psyche myself up for another round of the Infiniti Repair Game!

I tried to get to that nut today. NO-GO. I had to stop and calm down for the day. lol I was able to get the socket on the nut but when I tried to loosen it came off. I will try again on wed. I had the swivel at the socket by the nut. Reading 3Q Jay's post again .....maybe the swivel needed to be at the motor mount. BTW.. the motor mount appears to look ok from the part visible. I am also going to try a 14mm deep 3/8 socket directly connected to the ratchet on Wed. I measured with a 3/8 extension and it looks like it may clear....or not!

hang in there. I wish I could recall exactly the stackup that worked for me, but I can't. the swivel joint may have been just aft of the motor mount
I know you are thinking what a pain....all I can say is that in my experience, Nissans love to be taken apart. Meaning, the more you strip down, the easier it is to get to the prize. and reassembly usually goes much faster (YMMV).
If your motor mount was bad (note that these don't really seem to tear, mostly they just flatten out and get 'hard'), I would suggest dropping the front subframe as well, and then you would find both starter and alternator access so much easier.
Of course, I'm a clean freak when it comes to mechanicals, so everything gets restored as close to possible to factory correct and condition. when I work on it.

3Q Jay, Thanks...I will try different combinations with the swivel. I tried at the socket and at the ratchet. I have about 5-6 extensions hooked together so I still have a few try's left. PS. I have not cursed much. haha just wondering WHY?

Today a young man I work with came to help me with the alternator. I asked him to let me borrow his 14MM 3/8 th deep socket, because I wanted to go in direct to the 4th bolt removal on the A/C compressor. He is also a good mechanic. Well..it worked. He removed it. He said he has small hands and I told them they must be like a Vietnamese boy. Pun intended... (like was mentioned earlier in the post). He loosened the bolt and we got the alternator out in 30 min. I did have to remove the ATF filter bracket, to the right of the battery, and move the hoses and filter to the side. Very easy. When we went to hook up the first wire, the ground cable, we saw that the screw was undersized and the threads in the hole for the bolt were stripped. Also, the A/C compressor, which was only lowered about 1-2 inches, began to leak at the point where the aluminum line and block go into the rear of the compressor. My buddy tightened but it did not stop. I told him to loosed slightly and re tighten. That stopped the leak. We took the alternator back to Oreilly's and they ordered another one. We also brought the original and they bench tested. 4x tested all good!! This I don't understand now but I will install the new one when it comes in, and keep the original as a spare. The new alternator from Oreilly's was a Hitachi and had Nissan stamped in the back of the case just like the original. Will update when next attempt is complete.

Gort400 wrote: ↑

Wed Mar 16, 2022 6:25 pm

We took the alternator back to Oreilly's and they ordered another one. We also brought the original and they bench tested. 4x tested all good!! This I don't understand now but I will install the new one when it comes in, and keep the original as a spare.

You said the original was going in-and-out. That's very common when the internal regulator is suffering heat failure or old age, and you can't trust a tester when they do that. If the regulator happens to be working when it goes on the tester, it will show good because there's nothing wrong with the windings or brushes, just the silicon. Your original unit has bad silicon guts, so unless you want to rebuild it, I'd strongly suggest you scrap it.

VStar650CL,

Yes, mostly with Low Battery Charge, Brake light and ABS on. They would occasionally flicker off but then back on. I had a voltmeter plugged into the cigarette lighter and saw the voltage sometimes jump to 14.5V when the lights went off. Not all the times. With lights and message on the voltage was 11.5v and lower as I was driving. This was also with a fully charged battery which I did everyday.

Thank you for this information!

You're most welcome, happy to help. Hope you have good luck with the new one. The difference between cheap and reputable rebuilders is that cheap ones test and re-use the silicon parts, reputable ones replace them out of hand. That's much of the reason so many people have bad experiences with remans. There are no magic glasses for a rebuilder to peel away the epoxy and say, "This regulator is fine, this one is f@%#ed." My usual advice in situations like yours, where the unit is very difficult to replace, is just don't buy the cheapest one in the store.

Gort400 wrote: ↑

Wed Mar 16, 2022 6:25 pm

The new alternator from Oreilly's was a Hitachi and had Nissan stamped in the back of the case just like the original. Will update when next attempt is complete.

Glad to hear the skinny fingers did the trick!
This line is interesting to me. I'm thrilled that the O-reilly part is Hitachi remanned if indeed it is.....but how do you know? Not saying I know something you don't, just looking for some hard data,
While the 'hamburger' is a necessary prerequisite in my opinion, it is not sufficient to dictate what parts were used in the rebuild.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Wed Mar 16, 2022 6:38 pm

You said the original was going in-and-out. That's very common when the internal regulator is suffering heat failure or old age, and you can't trust a tester when they do that. If the regulator happens to be working when it goes on the tester, it will show good because there's nothing wrong with the windings or brushes, just the silicon. Your original unit has bad silicon guts, so unless you want to rebuild it, I'd strongly suggest you scrap it.

@Gort400--I agree with Vstar, but depending on the core charge, you might consider hanging on to your original, assuming it was the factory piece (or the factory 60u02R remanned part).

Also, in my electronics experience, the voltage regulator (like most things with circuits) may exhibit temperature instability. So, when it's 'cold' on the oreilly bench tester it looks good, but once things warm up it goes intermittent. It is not surprising if that is what's happening.

3Q Jay wrote: ↑

Wed Mar 16, 2022 8:30 pm

@Gort400--I agree with Vstar, but depending on the core charge, you might consider hanging on to your original, assuming it was the factory piece (or the factory 60u02R remanned part).

I should have worded that differently. I simply meant it would be a bad idea to reinstall it. Very often with older stuff, a rebuildable core can save your car from the JY at some later date. So if that's the idea, I agree completely.

Thanks all. I'm trying to remember my choosing OReillys. Here is what I remember...My buddy works at BBB Industries up the street. Corporate office. They Re-manufacture Starters and Alternators. I thought I saw that the re-manufactured alternators were Hitachi for the Q45. I asked him where his products were sold. He said OReillys. I looked on their site and in the description it says "OE Manufacturer: Hitachi " I'm not positive but for now its close enough for me. The OReillys Alternator had the NISSAN logo stamped into the back of the case. The alternator also came with a performance sheet and graph of output power to 130 amps. It was dated 9/6/2020. Hope I made the correct decision????

Sounds reputable. China Cheap Inc doesn't usually bother about where the housing came from or printing specifications.