Removing/Replacing Ball Joint

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Pyro Pat
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Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2003 9:07 pm

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I'm trying to replace the lower ball joint on the front driver's side on my 1990 240sx and am running into a bit of problem and was wondering if any of you guys could help me out. Basically, I removed the (I can't think of what it's called right now, A-Arm?) and the ball joint from the wheel spindle using a pickling fork and now I need to remove the ball joint from the part (the one I can't remember the name for right now). I removed the circlip/snap ring from the ball joint, but can't seem to remove the ball joint itself. Also, how do I go about putting the new ball joint back into the part? If anyone could help me out it would be greatly appreciated. (Also, sorry I can't remember the name of that part, I feel like a real dumass saying "that part")

Also, I find it funny that it says, "Driving Mom's Car" because right now I actually am. I'm replacing the ball joint on the 240sx (duh) and my MR2 Turbo is parked for the winter...

Thanks, Patrick Ernzen


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Mayhem_J30
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if you don't have one go out and purchase a ball joint kit. it should have several different tools in there for pulling and replacing ball joints.

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red240ne
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Pyro Pat wrote:Also, I find it funny that it says, "Driving Mom's Car" because right now I actually am. Thanks, Patrick Ernzen


Me too for the time being. Of course it has to be a Buick too. My 240 has been on jackstands for over a week now, while I'm waiting for some parts to come in.

Pyro Pat
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Okay, but this should be a pretty simple answer for anyone that has ever replaced a ball joint on a 240sx. Basically, does the ball joint go up trough the top or down through the bottom (If looked at from it's original position)? I would assume down because the snap ring was on the top. Also, even if I had a tool kit, with no instructions it would probably not be very helpful. I have a Haines manual, but the instructions are very vague and not much help. The basically say, "remove the ball joint... replace the ball joint... etc."

Thanks, Patrick Ernzen

Pyro Pat
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Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2003 9:07 pm

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Anyone? Sorry to be pushy but I REALLY need to get this done tonight...

Thanks, Patrick Ernzen

Daves240
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My friend used a BFH and hit it out. We used a vise to press the new one in and maybe the hammer to persuade it in also.

David J.'89 240sx

Pyro Pat
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Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2003 9:07 pm

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Well, I already tried beating the hell out of it with a hammer, so... I guess tommorrow I'm going to have to take it to a shop, have them press the old one out and the new one in... thanks anyway...

Oh, and it's actually a Chilton's manual, not a Haines. It still sucks though.

Patrick Ernzen

Pyro Pat
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Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2003 9:07 pm

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Well, I decided that I would give it one last shot tonight so I did some searching on the MR2 message board (board.mr2faq.com) and several people suggested holding onto the control arm (the part which I couldn't remember the name for) and smacking the ball joint on a rock. So... I bundled up (I live in lame Fairbanks, Alaska and it's about 11:30PM) and tried it. And wadda you know it actually worked :ylsuper (sparked a little too). Now all I gotta do is put the new ball joint in and put it all back together so I can go to sleep.

Patrick Ernzen

Pyro Pat
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Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2003 9:07 pm

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:mad: Well... once again, things suck. Okay, so I got the old one out, but getting the new one in now presents a problem. I'm worried about hurting the new one, so I'm still going to go get it pressed in tommorrow... damn it. Oh well.

Patrick Ernzen

DAEDALUS
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When I did my ball joints and bushings, they required quite a bit of force--thousands of pounds for some of them (actually, I think the ball joint required the least). Find or buy a couple sockets to use as drifts. You can buy a ball joint set like Mayhem said, but check with your local Kragen, Checker, or Pep Boys. A lot of chain stores loan tools for free. They'll charge your credit card the cost of the tool, but then refund your money when you bring the tool back. A shop with a hydraulic press is always a last resort.

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Mayhem_J30
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your concern for damaging the new one is VERY valid and real. it must be pressed in properly and not with a rock or some other crude method. i forgot about what daedulas said. he's right you can usually get these specialty tools for free (borrowed) from autozone or some place similar. i just purchased a kit so i could always have the tools in the future. very handy.

Pyro Pat
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Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2003 9:07 pm

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Well, I called around and got some prices for pressing the ball joint in then decided to call a friend who I thought may be able to help me out. It just so happened that he could. So him and a friend came over with a ball joint press kit and needless to say, the ball joint was in and the car was back together within an hour... about damn time.

Thanks for all of your help guys,Patrick Ernzen

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Mayhem_J30
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Pyro Pat wrote:Well, I called around and got some prices for pressing the ball joint in then decided to call a friend who I thought may be able to help me out. It just so happened that he could. So him and a friend came over with a ball joint press kit and needless to say, the ball joint was in and the car was back together within an hour... about damn time.

Thanks for all of your help guys,Patrick Ernzen


yeah, i learned my lesson a long time ago with what it's like to not use the proper tools. an old s-10 that which are notorious for the front ball joints ripping into at which point the truck is dragging on the ground. I spent 2 winter nights outside in the cold trying to get the old one out with hammers, mallets and prybars. Eventually I caught on to the fact that a tool must be made to do this and i popped it out and a new one in during a time frame of aprox 10 minutes. Dumb, dumb dumb considerings I've been working on it for about 14 hours


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