Removing Crank / Pully Bolt

[Two-Fortee]

Im looking to remove my crank bolt to set everything at tdc. Just finished a headgasket job, went to start it, and it didnt fire up. After words my air intake smelt like gas ish / smoke, so I figured my timing is off.

Anyway, how do I remove this bolt ?! When I try it turns the whole engine. Thanks

[CakeEater]

Keep your rear wheels on the ground, and put it in first gear.

It will stop the engine from turning over.

If you have access to an impact gun....use it. The shock of an impact gun will prevent the spinning action.

(BTW, I'm the guy who sold you the stock t-25 a while back)

[MeanGreenS13]

why do you have to take the crank pulley off? you dont know where TDC is?

[Two-Fortee]

you sure its not going to spin the crank and send pistons into my valves? lol

[CakeEater]

If you spin the crank you will be doing a human powered burn-out, or you clutch if ****ed.

[Two-Fortee]

there are marks on the timing to show exactly where it is..........thats why im taking it off.

[CakeEater]

Yes you do have to remove the pulley if you want to check the lower timing gear for skipping.

I think that "meangreen" was referring to the pulley itself having the marks on it for TDC, and you not being able to find them.

[CakeEater]

If you just did the HG and you kept the pulley on, and had no way of checking to see for tooth slipping.

I would have to say that you have lost the timimg because the belt can be a bastard to keep in postion when removing the head and keeping the belt in place.

[MeanGreenS13]

the 3 times ive doen headgaskets on my car, ive never had a timing issue afterwards, i make sure the engine is at TDC, and count the marks between cams and its always been perfect. just dont want you to make it too difficult on yourself

[Two-Fortee]

Well heres where I am at right now, my cams are at tdc, and I need to move my bottom end there now. It wont spin freely at the moment, seems like pistons are touching valves, not too sure where to go from here.

[jt15833]

i actually just went through this a few days ago during my HG install. My method has always been to pull the belt of the cam gears and keep it very tight upwards, then tie it to something, still taught, so that it doesn't slip.

then i had my head off and wanted to clean my 2 & 3 piston tops, so i said **** it and undid the belt and turned the rotating assembly.

the truth is, which i hope to confirm when i start my car, if before you put the head back on you turn the crank back to exactly how it was when you removed the head, IE check timing marks on pulley, and you put the head back on with the cam gear marks atleast NEAR the timing plate marks @ 9 oclock (intake) 3 oclock (exhaust), you will be able to time it correctly again. After I have fastened the head (grrrrr) adjust the cam gears exactly to the timing marks and use a small c-clamp or vise in the middle to hold their position. Put the timing belt back over the gears and adjust tension.

The only possibility for error is the number of teeth between timing marks. I do think tho that after 2 or 3 rotation to test timing marks after the tensioner is tight and things are good would reveal if the number of teeth is wrong. Also i think it would be difficult to mess up the number of teeth if you have tensioned it before.

Anyone please correct me if i am wrong as this is just how i imagined i would do it had things gone correct. I will try it in a week though.