I did mention new Drone DR5400 in the post, I have DR5400 but the only difference between 3400 and 5400 is that with 3400 you have a lag between pushing the button on your smartphone to start the car and actual start of the engine - anywhere between 15-30 seconds - and 5400 is little bit faster since its has LTE capability. Probably 5-10 seconds. Just a faster 2-way communication. Not sure if it worth paying more for 5400 but I didThe parts listed by hagani are older models, they have FT-DC3-s now and 5400 for the drone. Probably a few new features but not too sure.
And how you will bypass immobilizer with this cheap pay-as-you-go phone?mrnix wrote: ↑Mon Dec 18, 2017 12:52 pmI recall seeing a suggestion of someone that took a cheap pay-as-you-go phone and wired up the phone's vibration power source to the remote start aux input - presumably via relay. That way, you can call or text your car to start it with minimal "subscription" fees other than whatever the monthly minutes are. This intrigues me, and when I have a little more time and find a cheap wireless phone, I may give it a shot.
And once again how you will bypass the immobilizer system? Owning a automotive repair shop and being around the cars for a long time I don't see how you possibly can start your car with the cheap cellphone or anything like that. Before you send anything to starter you have to have your ignition 'ON'".. Won't be able to do it without keyfob being present. Unless you going to hide a keyfob inside the car, like old times before immobilizer bypass systems. But then anyone can break into your car and drive away.
NRGM45 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 23, 2017 4:20 pmYou have to have an extra remote you're willing to "sacrifice" for this purpose that you leave in the house. Ope it up and find the circuit board. Solder two wires in parallel with the button that actives the remote start. Take those wires and plug them in to your "dry contact" Zwave device. The Zwave device activates a relay (on command, from Alexa or your phone's app) that actuates the relay and shorts the wires. When that happens, your car gets remote started. Pretty easy concept.mrnix wrote:
I'd like to think I'm fairly knowledgeable when it comes to tech stuff, but I don't have the slightest idea how you made the Alexa integration work. Can you share the details, or point me in a direction to find out more about it? I have a fire stick with Alexa, but we have not integrated it with anything.
Still very awesome. One day I'll need to sit down and figure out my setup...no remote start here yet but plan to do that Fortin system mentioned in the other howtos.NRGM45 wrote: ↑Tue Dec 19, 2017 9:22 amThe way I did it, only works when the spare remote is my house, wired up to a relay. It won't work like the Drone mobile system works, which is anywhere you can get a cell signal. So range is pretty limited. The immobilizer obviously gets bypassed by the learned function in the EVO-ALL which is in the car. The remote just activates that!
IF you were to use a cheap cellphone, you'd have to leave your spare remote in the car. Obviously, that's not very secure. But if you were to use DRONE, who's to say someone won't hack their servers and gain full access to your car that way ? It's in all in how much security you're willing to give up for more convenience.
Mine is actually hooked up to my smartthings hub actually. And I can control that from anywhere... but the car still needs to be in range of the remote which is my house.. LOL
That's actually a good idea! Didn't think of that... That way I don't have to sacrifice a remote. Cool!mrnix wrote: ↑Tue Dec 19, 2017 12:16 pmI have the Fortin kit installed in my car, and it has a separate Aux input. (that's how the RF Kit some have mentioned works with the Fortin Unit). I put an old keyless entry receiver in my car, and the remote will start my M37. The cheap cell phone would use this same input, diode isolated.
As far as I know, no one here thinks that you can just start your car with a cheap cell phone or Alexa without installing the Fortin or something similar. The fortin is the first step.
thanks. not my idea. I'd give credit if I could recall who gave the original suggestion. If I'm not mistaken, all the aux input needs is 12v ground, which could easily come from just about any switch or device, via relay. The cheap cell phone is just a conduit to push a button inside of the car. I figured that's a lot cheaper than messing around with these single purpose subscription based services, assuming the phone/service can be had inexpensively. My other plan is to try the Zwave relay for Alexa integration and solder leads to the keyless entry remote. just have to find the time.NRGM45 wrote: ↑Tue Dec 19, 2017 1:52 pmThat's actually a good idea! Didn't think of that... That way I don't have to sacrifice a remote. Cool!mrnix wrote: ↑Tue Dec 19, 2017 12:16 pmI have the Fortin kit installed in my car, and it has a separate Aux input. (that's how the RF Kit some have mentioned works with the Fortin Unit). I put an old keyless entry receiver in my car, and the remote will start my M37. The cheap cell phone would use this same input, diode isolated.
As far as I know, no one here thinks that you can just start your car with a cheap cell phone or Alexa without installing the Fortin or something similar. The fortin is the first step.
With that aux input you can probably use a cheap arduino with a GSM kit attached and start the car that way. Get a Ting SIM card in it and pay 6 bucks a month for the service.