Rebuilt motor cranks slow-no start. 97 D21 KA24E

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whomadewho
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Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:32 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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Can cause rough idle but not to the point where that the vacuum would be that low. Check the pcv & try blocking the vacuum line to the booster. Also check the vehicle vin number with the part number of the intake manifold gasket. There is two different gaskets that were used. The part store only list one gasket with a S in the vin number.


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jonathan1173
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Joined: Wed Nov 04, 2009 2:09 am
Car: 1997 Nissan Pickup XE 4X2
Location: Houston

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Update,
1)found I was off a tooth on cam timing even though everything was lined up when removing the chain (similar experience last chain swap). Adjusted cam sprocket one notch clockwise (careful not to allow chain to fall in front cover) and it stopped the cats from glowing.
2)Found exhaust manifold leaking- replaced manifold and gaskets (shop-vac in tailpipe and soapy water found it)
3)Replaced IACV because idle still bouncing. No change, still wont hold idle.
4)Found vacuum leak around throttle body gasket using carb cleaner method-ordered new from dealer.
Still have the "Primary Ignition Trouble" code.
Will update after gasket change.

whomadewho
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Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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Recheck for pending codes - If the gasket doesn’t resolve the issue - You might be dealing with the swirl valve in the intake manifold? It’s possible for the valve to be stuck - the metal strip between the ports is broke off - The vacuum valve that operates the valve may be bad.

whomadewho
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Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:32 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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If the swirl valve is leaking causing the valve not to function this would explain why a vacuum leak can’t be detected by spraying the vacuum lines. If the valve doesn’t open, the engine won’t run properly. This could also explain the glowing exhaust. If the swirl valve solenoid is working this would explain why no stored or pending codes are detected.

whomadewho
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Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:32 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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Just installed a timing chain in a 1996 Nissan d21. The engine starts, set the timing but the engine doesn’t idle correctly. Checked for codes - no stored or pending. Checked sensors- checked out ok. Disconnected the negative post on the battery and discovered that there was no continuing at the air flow sensor or the temperature sensor (ground). Ran a wire from the ECU) to the temperature senser (ground) Rechecked for pending codes and came up with codes po110 - po120 - po115. Found a broken ground wire where the bracket that bolts onto the rocker arm cover the one where the throttle cable passes through. Repaired the broken wire runs excellent. Might want to check continuing ( Ground wires)

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jonathan1173
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Joined: Wed Nov 04, 2009 2:09 am
Car: 1997 Nissan Pickup XE 4X2
Location: Houston

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Thanks! Just finished all tb gaskets, some improvement but still rough, loping idle. Hit the gas and it jumps to 5k like a beast, put it in gear and accelerate, doesnt seem to go above 3k. Tps new, may need adjustment? Will need to check vacuum again.
Swirl valves, rod looked ok when i had intake manifold off, but perhaps solenoid. How to check? Possible to manually open/close these without disassembling?
I will check continuity/ground between afs and temp sensor and let you know what i find.

whomadewho
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Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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Before you proceed doing anything - disconnect the negative battery cable - disconnect the plug that goes to the air flow sensor on the top of the air cleaner - check the ground wire for continuity. If you don’t have continuity - the TPS - the temperature sending unit with two wires located on the intake manifold & the solenoid for the swirl valve won’t function. The ground wire is connected to the ECU. Again NO codes will show if there is no continuity. Let me know if this is happening. I can save you a lot of time rather than cutting all the wiring harnesses.

whomadewho
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Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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It’s possible when you did the engine R&R the ground wire broke? The swirl valve has a vacuum valve located below the EGR valve. Possible the valve might be bad. Very difficult to test. In order check it I used a piece of brake line and placed a small piece of vacuum line on the end. I removed the line on the valve and inserted the brake line with the small piece of hose on it. The other end went to a hand held vacuum pump. If you can continually pump the would indicate the valve is bad. Don’t want to get into the replacement procedure.

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jonathan1173
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Joined: Wed Nov 04, 2009 2:09 am
Car: 1997 Nissan Pickup XE 4X2
Location: Houston

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Ok, disconnected negative cable, unplugged air temp sensor from under air cleaner, set to 200 ohms, both terminals on harness plug reads 34-35, so both terminsls have continuity.
Read codes with scanner p1320 stored and p0340 pending ign. signal and cam pos. sensor. Cleared codes, re-ran test and now pending code p1130 swirl valve solenoid.
Next step is to do vac. test on valve, any particular port to connect test line onto valve? Test with engine off?
Having previously removed intake manifold when replacing head, i already know replacing valve/solenoid will be a p.i.t.a.
Thanks.

whomadewho
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Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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Hold off before checking the vacuum valve. Does the engine rev up when running? When checking continuity with negative cable off - check negative (ground) terminal that goes to the air flow meter - temperature sensor- TPS senser ONLY. The cam sensor ground wire also goes to the ECU.

whomadewho
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Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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Go to the FREE service manual located on this site. Refer to EC-pdf located in left column this section will explain each code in detail. Also goes into detail how to trouble shoot. Check the swirl control solenoid before checking the vacuum valve. Doesn’t seem possible being the engine ran good before the overhaul, but it might be a issue going on with the ECU?

whomadewho
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Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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Focus on manifold vacumm & vacuum line leaks. You need around 18 in order for the engine to run decent. You might want to consider removing the passenger side wheel & the flap around the inner fender. Makes for easier to check vacuum lines & sensors. The way you checked for continuity is probably ok as long as the negative cable was disconnected. Another discouraging thing it’s possible to have a clogged vacuum line.

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jonathan1173
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Engine lopes during idle, but revs up to 5k just fine.I've printed the FSM pages and have plans to check air flow meter, temp sensor, and TPS sensor soon and will report back. I recall the truck began bucking and not holding idle after hit from the back, didn't see any damage to canister above spare tire though.

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jonathan1173
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Car: 1997 Nissan Pickup XE 4X2
Location: Houston

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Checked afm, temp sensor, and tps sensor, all check out.
Tested swirl valve vacuum-actuates w vacuum applied.
Solenoid passed the a-b-c test with 12v applied.
Read codes, still getting the p1320 ign. Signal.
Have a new one now- p0505 idle control system. Ive replaced the idle control valve already.
Still lopes at idle, revs to 4k fine.
Im thinking smoke test would be the next step?

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jonathan1173
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Update- used homemade smoke tester to check for vacuum leaks. Behold, i found two! Yay?
One is from chipped intake manifold where the #1 injector inserts.
The other is coming out of the idle control screw opening on throttle body.
Will have to remove TB and see if i can extract screw and replace o ring if it has one.
Entire throttle body is a bit pricey.

whomadewho
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Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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You talking intake manifold or fuel rail?? If your trying to remove the injector your better off removing the entire fuel rail. If the fuel rail is cracked I’ve got you covered. If worse comes to worse with the throttle body you can go online - Hollander auto parts. There are many used throttle bodies available at affordable prices.

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jonathan1173
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Joined: Wed Nov 04, 2009 2:09 am
Car: 1997 Nissan Pickup XE 4X2
Location: Houston

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Its the intake manifold itself, round opening where the injector slips into. I noticed a chip during the rebuild and filled in with Quicksteel then filed down.
Perhaps I could try removing fuel rail, re-epoxying, then sealing around it with RTV for an airtight seal. Worth a try before removing/ replacing entire intake manifold.
More serious leak coming from idle control screw on throttle body. Is there an o-ring in there to seal off? I remember when truck was new, there used to be a rubber cap covering this, but figure it was just to keep amateurs from messing with it. I'm considering sealing off the opening to prevent vacuum leaks before replacing entire throttle body. Thoughts?
I will try to upload photo/ video of leak with smoke machine...

whomadewho
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Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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Another thought if you remove the rail. 1 - Remove all the injector bolts and put anti seize on them. Makes it easier down the road. 2 - As long as you have the injectors out,take them in and have them cleaned and tested.

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jonathan1173
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Car: 1997 Nissan Pickup XE 4X2
Location: Houston

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You are correct. I do remember putting anti-seize on them when re-installing. I even replaced all injectors with remanufactured from Rockauto as at least one was questionable.
Here is Googledrive link to video, hope it works:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/19-kD3s ... Osz3K/view

As shown in the video, smoke is definitely coming from idle screw opening and the #1 injector where it goes into intake manifold. Truck is showing symptoms of a vacuum leak, loping idle, having to keep foot on gas to keep it running, etc.

whomadewho
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Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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If you take a flashlight and shine it in the hole in the throttle body you will notice a cap with a hole in the center. If you take a piece of wire you will notice that the wire can be inserted completely through the hole. I wouldn’t block the hole For now focus on the leak in the intake manifold. If it still leaks after fixing the chip it probably wouldn’t do any good to remove the fuel rail

whomadewho
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Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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The rtv around the injector seal would be a bad idea. The impact that caused the chip to occur could have caused hair line cracks that migrated in different directions. Looking at the video it’s hard to tell but it almost looks like the gasket is leaking also?

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jonathan1173
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Car: 1997 Nissan Pickup XE 4X2
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After alot of work, frustration, and researching, I have it running. Sure, there some kinks to work out such as the p1320 ignition signal code that's been a thorn all along. New rear main seal, clutch, chain, cam, head, and all that bolts onto it. Thanks again for your help!


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