RB25 daily driven/drift build (pic heavy)

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Posted my vid of the engine now running. Working out some issues. Figured I would catch up my build so far.


The day I bought it for $175. (Vg had knock)

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Now for the bad.

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But wait, theres more!!



I sense something lying under there.....(about 1" of bondo) back to that later

The quarter panel after lots of slide hammering

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Cant see well but this is after a whole flappy wheel to get down to the 1" deep dent.



After lots of dolly work and light coat of filler

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Back to rusted out pass. door


Patch panel


Welded in

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The white streaks are OSPHO. Ive been brushing it on like house paint.

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You are probably tired of bodywork photos. Lol. I dont care! People think it is fun to "buy a Z32". Ive eliminated one of the worst parts, (the VG30 lol no offense) but the undercoating is apparently worse than 80's TOYOTAS!! (Last car was an AE86)

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Now for the real winner, the hatch.....

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Ok enuf depressing storyline,.....then.....I got some money......

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And I bought THIS!


(Rb25det)

And THESE!

(Rb25det bell and slave, and some pitbull feet)

And THESE!!!

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Alright back to technical stuff. Im running the "white bunny" clutch setup. But no one really details the swap. Well, here it is;

D21 flywheel. (1990 D21 pickup)


ACT 6 puck ceramic clutch. (1990 300zx NA)

[Zkyline]

Now thats the gyst of it. BUT most guys run this setup on a KA24 or SR20? Needless to say there are some interference issues on a RB. But keeping with the theme of my $175 car, I saw a flywheel at my local NAPA for $50. So this is the route I chose.

Other info I had to search for worth noting, use the 300zx throwout bearing, clutch arm, (raw brokerage pivot ball), 300zx pilot bushing, and the front cover from the 300zx.

Raw Brokerage included the RB trans front cover and hardware, and the actual TOB riding surface on the cover is shorter, so I assumed due to the bell depth distance I should use the RB cover. But no, the TOB looks like it might slide off the end of the shaft. So I used the z32 cover, chromoly pivot, and cut 1/8-3/16" off input shaft..

[Zkyline]

Now back to the REAL issues no one really covers. The auto bushing in the RB is incredibly hard to remove. I will detail that.

THE REAR OF THE D21 FLYWHEEL RUBS ON THE REAR OF THE RB REALLY BAD.
Most "white bunny" writups say there is slight rubbing, but let it "self clearance itself" until the noise stops.

THIS MAY WORK ON A KA24 OR SR20. DO NOT DO THIS ON A RB SERIES.

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I tried to drill the collar out without harming the crank

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Ended up welding bolt to collar and slide hammering it out. I used quick short welds to reduce heat around the rear main seal.

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Remember this pic. Not the crank collar. But the dust shield and rear main, cuz if you wanna run a D21 flywheel, they will NEVER LOOK LIKE THIS AGAIN

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Not sure what happened to the pics, but basically, use a paint pen, coat the highest ridge on the flywheel, slide it up to the crank to where it rubs, remove, check the high spots, grind. Repaint, recheck, grind some more. It will be the edges of the oilpan, and the rear main housing. There is a LOT to clearance.

If someone were to take this "white bunny" setup as tried and true, and to attempt to bolt a D21 flywheel to A RB motor without doi.g any clearancing, it would be disasterous. I think the rear main housing would shatter into pieces just from bolting the flywheel on.

So PLEASE, DOUBLE AND TRIPLE CHECK YOUR CLEARANCE TO THE REAR MAIN HOUSING.

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Moving on, heres some inspiration.

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Ok, now my engine was an R33 gts-4 auto. So it had a GTR pan. It has a front diff. So this needs SERIOUS alterations.....here it goes....

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After gutting the diff parts and thru shaft, you will have this;



And after cutting off the diff housing and cv flange on other side, this;

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Diff:

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Now theres a guy on youtube who also is involved with RBZ32.com. and he documents the GTR pan mods very briefly. But I think mine turned out a little cleaner... lol.



The idea is to remove the ribs to clear the crossmember. And dont worry these pans are THICK

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Now heres how I plugged the axle holes in the pan. I used a regular holesaw, and cut solid plugs of aluminum to the inside axle hole diam.

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All welded up

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While I had the pan off I tapped an additional oil drain

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Then out came the paperweight

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Crossmember got hacked


And plated in

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Motor in

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Motor mount mock up. (Using vg30 bushing)


Coming together