get hypereutectic pistons and moly rings with an o ringed block and a any stock sized head gasket and as long as you're not through stupid amounts of boost at it you'll be fine.

I say.

Buy after market pistons, say 9.0/9.5 to 1 and run a stock head gasket. Why?

If you tune your car right you will be fine. The will be no need to run 21 psi of boost when you can make the same power at 1 bar and have excellent turbo spool and a responsive car off boost. what do you think?

Check this out:

http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads ... Post358272

rogue wrote:I say.

Buy after market pistons, say 9.0/9.5 to 1 and run a stock head gasket. Why?

If you tune your car right you will be fine. The will be no need to run 21 psi of boost when you can make the same power at 1 bar and have excellent turbo spool and a responsive car off boost. what do you think?

that's kinda what i said :0)

rogue wrote:Check this out:

http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads ... Post358272

i personally think 10:1 is too much with pump gas, especially if he thinks he's going to get 400hp. that's like a ITR making 400 on stock internals :rolleyes

Well greaser did make power on 10.0:1. so making power is not an issue, no when he boosted to 21 psi he used racing gas ( if I remember correctly).

I know of type rs making 350 on stock internals with standard compression and 1 bar of boost.

All this can be done, people just dont tune their damn cars, they think a afc is good enough and just drive away.

=)

that 350 also is extremely peaky and has probably about 220 ft lbs of torque

projekt, doesn't the short gearing of the itr make torque less of an issue? obviously more torque = good thing, but those things run like stink until you gear out at about 145 mph.

9.5 cr + metal HG stock thickness = good?

rogue wrote:I say.

Buy after market pistons, say 9.0/9.5 to 1 and run a stock head gasket. Why?

If you tune your car right you will be fine. The will be no need to run 21 psi of boost when you can make the same power at 1 bar and have excellent turbo spool and a responsive car off boost. what do you think?

So basically what ur saying is I car run 1 point lower CR then you at 21 psi, while you use 1 point higher at 14.7 psi and you'll make the same amount of power...hmmm, I think not my friend. I'm not arguing the the fact that you can tune a car to run very well at 9.0/1 CR at 14.7 psi. I'm just saying you won't make as much as adding another 6psi. Before I swapped out my headgasket, I was running 1.5 bar on a completely stock engine. So I see no need to raise the CR to 9/1 or higher. You'll make more power by adding boost.

WD

It depends how you want your car to run off boost, and what you use the car for. For something like drag, using low compression and high boost is usually the best option (bye bye clutch). For autocross (or just fun factor on the street or roadracing) you would want as little lag as possible for more of an NA feel. If money were no object I'd stroke a 26 to 2.8 liters with a 9.0/1 (or even 9.2) comp ratio. With alcohol injection for octane booster and cooling agent (as well as basic necesities like fuel, fmic, ignition timing control, etc) and nice mid-size turbo (say a gt3037) you could put down 20 psi easily. rb25 people on skylinesdownunder do it (often without the alcohol injection). That would be more than enough horsepower for me (400hp plus) with torque and resposiveness to match.

As WD stated previously he doesn't mind lag, if you feel the same way and want the highest HP for your buck then by all means boost is the way to go.

lets look at miatasturbo miata's make somewhere around 220-250whp with stock internals. 323 turbos (with the same engines) make the same at higher boost.miata = 15psi 9.5 c/r323 = 23psi 7.8 c/r

WDRacing wrote:So basically what ur saying is I car run 1 point lower CR then you at 21 psi, while you use 1 point higher at 14.7 psi and you'll make the same amount of power...hmmm, I think not my friend. I'm not arguing the the fact that you can tune a car to run very well at 9.0/1 CR at 14.7 psi. I'm just saying you won't make as much as adding another 6psi. Before I swapped out my headgasket, I was running 1.5 bar on a completely stock engine. So I see no need to raise the CR to 9/1 or higher. You'll make more power by adding boost.

WD

I'm way too lazy to read every post in here so excuse me if this was addressed already, but your 1.5 bar on a bone stock motor, that won't be a running vehicle for very long, at least not on most motors, as I have an RB and still don't know the durability and limits of it. I used to spend a lot of time at my friends dyno shop, and I know what most motors can and can't take. From my experience, 1.5 bar is a whole hell of a lot of boost for a stock motor. I know you didn't really know exactly what you were at cause you had no gauge, but boost isn't something that will stay exactly where you set it at. We had a 2nd gen TII that hits 7lbs stock. When it got cold at night, it was running anywhere from 10-15lbs. All the car had was exhaust, intake, 550cc injectors and S-AFC. I know that the exhaust will make the boost run up a little, but my point is you really can't say that you ran that much boost for that long without having been on the dyno a few times to prove consistency or looking at a gauge.

if your cr is 7.8 like on old mazda turbos it's a-ok

Nismo241 wrote:I'm way too lazy to read every post in here so excuse me if this was addressed already, but your 1.5 bar on a bone stock motor, that won't be a running vehicle for very long, at least not on most motors, as I have an RB and still don't know the durability and limits of it. I used to spend a lot of time at my friends dyno shop, and I know what most motors can and can't take. From my experience, 1.5 bar is a whole hell of a lot of boost for a stock motor. I know you didn't really know exactly what you were at cause you had no gauge, but boost isn't something that will stay exactly where you set it at. We had a 2nd gen TII that hits 7lbs stock. When it got cold at night, it was running anywhere from 10-15lbs. All the car had was exhaust, intake, 550cc injectors and S-AFC. I know that the exhaust will make the boost run up a little, but my point is you really can't say that you ran that much boost for that long without having been on the dyno a few times to prove consistency or looking at a gauge.

Not sure where your going here...I had a boost gauge. I ran 1.5 bar for 1 year....The turbo will go before the motor.

WD

WDRacing wrote:Not sure where your going here...I had a boost gauge. I ran 1.5 bar for 1 year....The turbo will go before the motor.

WD

Ahhh, I just saw in one post that you didn't have a boost gauge so you didn't know, like I said, I didn't read all of the posts. The motor would go first, unless the motor can handle that for that long, then yes, the turbo would go. But on most motors, the motor would be gone before the turbo, I've watched it happen many times.....kinda entertaining.

*edit, Thinking about it, it would all depend on the turbo. The stock one would probably go first. I'm used to seeing bigger turbos.

1.5 bar is very doable on an rb 20 provided you have the fuel and tuning to support it the biggest killer of rb's is dentonation and leaning out you get that right and they are very tough. my rb 20 run 1 bar all day every day no stress Ieven run the stock cooler now as thebi one is going on the next project.meggala

What kind of fueling and management do you have WDRacing?

WDRacing wrote:Along with a Garrett TO4E P-trim with a 96 AR. Which I didn't know at the time was a tad to big for a 2.0.

WD

What would you go with for 400whp then, .82?

bump

Was bone stock except for a FPR and Alcohol Injection.....I think the .82 would still be laggy, .60's are a good place to start.

I think I would actually go with a T3/T4 Hybrid next time.

WD

Oh, you were using a straight up T4. I just assumed a T3/T04.

I am going to go with a T3/T04E 60 trim turbo w/ .82 turbine, internally wastegated, because I don't think the SSAutoChrome manifold can be modded for an external with the runner configuration. I want 400whp, which is the absolute max for that turbo.

When the turbine becomes inefficient, it becomes more of a heat pump, so you can compensate for the higher end of the eficiency window with some alky injection. But I recommend Alky Injection to everyone who drives a forced induction car.

WD