I get it off without making a mess every time.

Just take it off slowly, and the second it comes off the threads, tilt it upward so that the oil can't spill out, and pull it out like that.

Oh, also have a towel in your other hand to catch the oil that comes out of the housing

Haha I managed to get it off with minimal mess this time.

I can't really get a towel under there since it's so cramped with my oil feed and pressure sensor.

^^I try to do the same thing with my wife's Saturn, but the filter is mounted low on the block, so even tilting it up immediately after it comes off, there is some oil that spews out from the block. Razi, the SR also has a crappy oil filter location. I don't want to relocate the filter though bc stock location will keep slightly better pressure if it stays on the block, there'll be fewer locations for oil to leak from, and if I finally get a good, small punch pin, I can put a hole in the old filter and then most of the oil will drain out of it before I remove it

Hmm good idea!

Yeah I don't want a relocation kit in the fear that I might lose a bit of pressure and it'll also clutter up my engine bay.

I'm going to a small meet/show thing tomorrow with my friends, I might get some pictures better than the one in my signature!
Yay!

So you get by CARB by driving your car so little you're exempt from emissions? 4000 miles a year? lol.
The thing I heard newer car owners doing (in this area to get past emissions testing) is buying an extra gage cluster to use after they hit 3000 miles for the year. Put the one back on with 3k miles for the yearly checkup and bam, exemption.

I wonder if I could do that!

Today was really fun.
Went to Cars & Coffee, met up with a bunch of people, had to drive a GT-R and an Impreza side by side to get the Impreza started, caravan'd to the meet at the local university and hung out with a bunch of my friends.

Good times!

I didn't know Peak Performance were chinese food enthusiasts, haha.
Check the box my polyrurethane subframe collars came in:


Install went pretty smooth, a little over an hour while taking my time.

I'll edit this post once I'm back from my test drive.

Edit:
Well I got back from my test drive and my idea of the collars letting the subframe act like a large brace didn't exactly work as I hoped.
The trunk/backseat area doesn't make any noises when going up driveways anymore, by now I have just a little bit now coming from my B pillar.
Better than nothing!

My rear end is noticeably more stiffer now, it doesn't feel as loose as it did when I'm making hard turns.
Also, the car stopped jerking back and forth in 1st or 2nd when I went from accelerating to engine braking, or engine braking to accelerating. (Which was annnoooying! And sort of uncomfortable.)
I also had wheelspin while going up my driveway today, which never happened unless I went up it at an extreme angle.
So it did add a good amount of stiffness to the rear, which I'm happy with.

So there is a good benefit to these, I'd recommend them.
Many people say the aluminum collars added more noise to the cabin, but I didn't notice any extra noise with these polyurethane ones, so I'd say it was worth the extra cost since this is my daily driver.

And just because these are polyurethane, don't think they are soft!
They are quite hard!

Here's some camera phone pictures to make you happy.



Diff is getting sort of dirty...


Btw, does anyone want to trade their aftermarket front swaybar for my Tanabe rear swaybars?

Razi wrote: My rear end is noticeably more stiffer now, it doesn't feel as loose

Yum to Natalie Portman

Hey man, car's come a long way. I'm looking into sway bars right now. Didn't see the diameter of them in the post u installed the Tanabe's. LMK if you remember the F&R diameter of the bars, and one more question.. are they HOLLOW?

27.5mm!

I'm assuming they're hollow.
Thought it feels heavy, I think it'd weigh a lot more of it were solid.

Great for getting the rear end sideways, kinda iffy for grip.

And the front one that Tanabe makes is 30.4mm.

Hmm yeah. That's pretty big lol. I want to step it up but I'm not sure by how much. None of the vendors post sizes lol! Thank you

FRsport is usually pretty informative about their products.
Their prices and shipping are pretty good too.

i didn't read all of this so don't get mad if it was mentioned or fixed, but isnt your brake lines a little close to the manifold? or is it just the pictures that make it look that way

beautiful job btw, i just got my 240 and i cant decide on ka-t or sr20 swap....

Yeah, it was pretty close with that manifold, but the heatwrap helped it from getting too hot and boiling.

But, I don't have to worry about that now that I got a KA/SR hybrid manifold from Motoman399.



I have about 2 or 3 inches of clearance from my brake lines now.
Woot!

Simple, clean, and very discrete. I like it. Keep it up!

Thanks!
I'm just waiting for Motoman to get the heatshield to me. Woot!

Nice! Is your #1 runner upper stud missing or was this just a during installation picture?

Haha, took it during the install.

Notice any faster boost response now? Is it just an elongation of the oem manifold bolt holes to make it fit?

I cut the KA flanges off and Motoman cut the SR flanges off and welded them on, fits pretty well.
After 3 retries though, I realized the 3rd flange was a little crooked and I had to get the flanges machined flat.

And yeah, it was well worth the time and effort though! I feel a quicker response of boost.
I like.

Awesome! Sounds like a fairly easy mod. Looks great, all the more to keep the popo and ref's off your back.

Pica of your oil psi gauge hooked up?? I need to know hoW!

Next up, you need to do a coilpack conversion. After that, an Xcessive engineering upper oil pan and Greddy SR20 lower pan
so you can ditch the one-piece pan and have some additional oil capacity.

costa_rican13 wrote:Pica of your oil psi gauge hooked up?? I need to know hoW!

Page 1 y0!

I just screwed the oil feed line and oil pressure sensor like that and bolted the sandwich plate onto the oil filter location.
It's a sandwich adapter from an eBay company called GlowShift or something, I made sure to bolt it down tight, no leaks from there so far!

Did you buy an oil pressure gauge already?
If you didn't, you should look into the cool little gauge that Parts Shop Max made.



It can display a temp and pressure + battery voltage at the same time.
Pretty cool and compact setup, and it even has warning features and recalls peak values, that's a lot of features for $180!

homeslicej2 wrote:Next up, you need to do a coilpack conversion. After that, an Xcessive engineering upper oil pan and Greddy SR20 lower pan
so you can ditch the one-piece pan and have some additional oil capacity.

Fund me!

^haha, I thought about asking you the same :p SGEAR gauges that Phase2 sells makes two 60mm gauges that are all in ones. One displays oil press, oil temp, water temp, & voltage. The other displays Boost, EGT, & intake temp. Only thing missing from them is a fuel pressure gauge. Not sure on cost or accuracy though

I broke down and got the autometer pro-comp ultra light oil psi for 57 new! And thanks for the pics! Look good. And does your autometer gauge change like boost based on revs?? That'd be pretty cool. I wonder if mine will.

It should if your oil pump is working properly haha.

11psi is minimum at idle, and 60-70 from 3k rpm and up.
I idle at 25psi though, oddly.