Random dashboard lights

[digimon]

Hello,

Recently I see AWD, ABS and Slip lights on dashboard turning on when I drive or turn on a dry day and use the brake pedal.
This happens on low speeds, even when backing up.
Any ideas why?

Thanks!

[VStar650CL]

Is your brake fluid okay? That will cause ABS/Slip, and the AWD will throw a derivative code because the ABS will stop tran-smitting wheel speeds. On most Nissans a bad brake switch can also cause that. If it isn't anything obvious, you should probably stop at the parts store and let them read your ABS codes.

[digimon]

I have Ancel AD310 OBD II Scanner. I am not sure it can read the code you mentioned, but I will try.
If the brake fluid was low, would not "Parking Brake and Brake Fluid Warning Light" lit up on the dashboard?

Thank you!

[VStar650CL]

Yes, fluid slosh will usually cause a brake lamp. A bad brake switch usually won't. Like I said, if your scanner doesn't do ABS, just about any parts store can scan it free.

[digimon]

I did not have a chance to take the car to dealer for service yet, but wanted to add that this happens even when the car is at full stop at the stop light: the ABS, AWD and Slip light all come on at once accompanied by a strange grinding sound (may be the noise of engaging AWD).
The lights stay on until the engine is turned off.

[digimon]

I finally had a chance to take the car to dealer for oil change and tire rotation, and asked to read ABS codes for me.
I was given C110U, which I think must be C1104, but the service advisor was not smart enough to read the technician's notes correctly.
This code points to wheel speed sensor on driver side at the front, but they also showed me that there is a transmission oil leak at the transmission oil cooler, which I think can be just where the tube connects to the cooler unit, but for some reason they quoted $1120 to replace the whole cooler...
They also found that the driver side axle was leaking, but instead of replacing the seal, they quoted $1350 for the replacement of the whole axle, that by the way they replaced a couple of years ago...
Besides, I got a quote for the replacement of the both front lower control arms: $1950, and both outer tire rods: $850...
The strange part is that this car was not in any accident for the past 10 years, so why I have to replace so many parts?
Is this that famous "Nissan quality" thing, that in reality is just a junk?

[VStar650CL]

Everything from C1101 to C1108 is a wheel sensor code, but C1109 is an abnormal voltage code that can happen from a low battery. So you should probably call them and clarify what the U actually is. When codes contain letters they're always hexadecimal, so A~F are valid numerals representing 10~15 decimal. Letters G and above are never valid. However, there are no letters valid in a C110x on a '12 Rogue, C110A~C110F don't exist.

Tran-ny coolers were never standard on gen1 Rogues, if your ride has one then it's a radiating type, either aftermarket or a Nissan retrofit from bulletin NTB16-090. Either way, if it's leaking, the best replacement is probably a Hayden 69x series.

Vis the axle leak, is it the seal or is one of the boots broken? If it's a boot then you replace the axle. Again, you should get them to clarify.

Control arms and tie rod ends are dependent on rubber just like axle boots, and rubber is always an issue on any 13 year old ride even if it's low miles. Rubber which isn't freshened up periodically is guaranteed to deteriorate (and will do so eventually even when cared for). I take great care of the wife's '13 and we still recently lost one of the axle boots. Other stuff will go too, it's just a matter of time. It's part of owning an old ride that you simply have to deal with.

[digimon]

The quote shows axle and axle seal, and again, this was replaced two years ago for the same reason: leaking grease, but I could hear grinding noise too then.
So, its not that the parts get too old and out of order, but bad quality parts or labor... And this is Nissan dealer, not some neighborhood mechanic.

Here is the picture of what they say is transmission oil cooler, that shows a piece of the cooler and pipe connecting to it somewhat wet, which they say is transmission oil leak, that requires the whole cooler replaced for $1120. Is this really the case?
Like I mentioned earlier, this car was not in any accident, so have no idea why this leaks, unless the technicians damaged it when working on other parts.




I have not replaced any parts except oil filter and breaks on my 10 years old Honda, but did a lot of repairs on this Nissan already...

[digimon]

It looks like the option of inserting the image in this platform does not work. So, I cannot even share an image... Here is the URL:
https://1drv.ms/i/c/b93af962b7d2f6be/Eb ... w?e=7p6NpY

[VStar650CL]

That looks like the factory retrofit cooler, and the leak looks to be from the hose and not the cooler. You can't get that specific hose except by buying the whole kit, but you can replace it with parts store hose (use the "hot oil rated" type only). Make a loose loop if the bend is too tight. If the cooler itself is actually leaking, the best-cheapest out is to replace it with a Hayden 696 or 697 (both under $60 on eBay).

[digimon]

Do you know the inside diameter of the transmission oil cooler hose?
For instance, the one at the link below shows .3125 in. and "Meets or exceeds SAE 100R6".
Will it work?
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/gat ... 10504808-P

or this one is 0.562 in and "SAE J1532":
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/car ... /5194083-P

[VStar650CL]

The standard size on almost all Nissan factory coolers is 5/16" (8mm), and I believe those retro kits were the same. Most domestic and aftermarket coolers use 3/8" (10mm), so if you need to swap for a Hayden you'll need a couple of 5/16 x 3/8 barbed reducers.

[VStar650CL]

PS - SAE J1532 is fine, that's the spec for trans lines. For those interested, it's not good for engine oil because cold pressures can go much higher. For that you need J1019.

[digimon]

Ok, so I need SAE J1532, but .3125 in. ?

[VStar650CL]

Correct.

[digimon]

I eventually had the wheel speed sensor replaced for about $600 and the lights stopped appearing.

I also decided to agree to that $1120 repair of transmission fluid cooler and hoses. The funny part is that although there was a transmission fluid leak, the dealer did not recommend adding or replacing the fluid.
I checked transmission fluid level, and the dip stick was not even wet. I suppose I need to drive the car for a couple of miles, and only then check the transmission fluid level, but still, was not at least the tip of the stick supposed to be wet?
I believe I need NS-2 fluid for my car, but if the fluid was replaced once and other than NS-2 was added, like NS-3, will it cause any problems if I add NS-2 to bring the fluid level up a bit?
I think I can add fluid using the dip stick port.

[VStar650CL]

NS3 is downward compatible with NS2, you can freely mix them in an NS2 tran-ny. The reverse is untrue, NS2 is not upward compatible and you shouldn't use it in an NS3 tran-ny.

Low fluid won't hurt a CVT as readily as overfilling, but it should still be showing on the stick. Definitely top it up.

[digimon]

I just wanted to make sure that it is ok to mix different fluid types. Based on your response, it seems the answer is yes?
Google tells me that the car should be driven and the engine should be running while measuring the transmission fluid level.
Is that correct?

[VStar650CL]

Yes and yes. The most accurate stick will always be with the tran-ny fully warm.

[digimon]

Just an update:

During the transmission cooler and hoses replacement the dealer called me and advised on need to add transmission fluid for extra $27, and I gave go ahead.
The papers showed that NS2 was added, and the fluid level goes up to the bottom line on the transmission fluid stick after the car is driven for four miles and engine is running.

And the AWD, ABS and Slip lights are not coming up since the wheel speed sensor was replaced.