Quick way to lower a nissan/datsun pickup

Post by **pejsa s-13** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 9:26 am

two questions for you pezi:

1. some odpl guy told me if i took the thick a** leaf off the bottom of the leaf pack and put it on the top instead, it would give me 2 more inches of drop, by flattening out the leafs and give me stiffer rear ride (true or false)

2. was your truck competive in auto x, like whats another vehicle that was there one day that had the same times as you?

Post by **PEZi** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 12:47 pm

answer to first question... i dunno... but i want to know as well because once i make some more power i'll need to get rid of the blocks

second question... this is a little harder to answer because i'm running in a class that is for cars built for the track only (which mine still has a long way to go in order to be competitive in) BUT... as far as being competitive against other 'street' cars... yes it is

here are a few times from a previous event

my truck (less than 100whp / truck suspension) - 64.801

'93 240sx (KA port and polished w/full exhaust / full suspension) - 65.235

'07 STi (300whp / full suspension) - 64.145

'06 s2000 (stock but good tires) - 65.055

now like i said... there is a lot of room to play in my class... and to be competitive in my class i need to build the truck to be much better... the guy who took 2nd in nationals in my class was there this same day and...

'87 corolla gt-s AE68 (250 whp / FULL CUSTOM suspension / 1700 lbs) - 55.247

Post by **pejsa s-13** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 4:00 pm

cool thats pretty much exactly what i wanted to know

and ill expirement with the leafs on sunday and let you know the results.

Post by **bracktheron720** » Sat Oct 24, 2009 8:46 pm

pejsa s-13 wrote:cool thats pretty much exactly what i wanted to know

and ill expirement with the leafs on sunday and let you know the results.

did you caome up with anything??i wanna do the leaf fswitch if it worked for you!!!

Post by **PEZi** » Sun Nov 01, 2009 4:44 pm

i've been thinking about this leaf swap... and i feel it wouldn't be 'stable' for performance... probably ok in a DD that doesn't see a lot of hard use but a simple re-arch from a spring shop would give you the same result without compromising performance

Post by **bracktheron720** » Sun Nov 01, 2009 8:40 pm

rite on thats kinda the answer i was looking for!!im not goin for a strait up track vehicle more of an agressive DD..i love the look of my truck just want a little more perfomce and handling out of her!!lowering helped with the cornering alot!!in the rear mine has helper springs for hauling heavier loads will removing them do anything to the ride hight??as far as looks go i just want to get the stance rite still...iv alredy converted the front clip to an earlier model Datsun insted of my 84 front end was a little work but came out sweet!!

Post by **Frankie Pintado** » Tue Nov 03, 2009 8:14 pm

OK, I've been watching this thread lately, and I've got a truck that I am willing to try the spring swap on.

I also see a few potential problems: mainly that with that configuration, the suspension may get softer as it compresses. not good.

However, I admit that it is difficult to picture exactly what the effect will be without trying it. Since the body is such a heap of rust and bondo, and has mold and grass growing on it, I volunteer to try this probably bad idea. It may be a week or two, but I'll get back to you all with some pictures and reviews.

Post by **PEZi** » Wed Nov 04, 2009 10:51 am

sweet thanks man!

Post by **bracktheron720** » Wed Nov 04, 2009 12:55 pm

awsome!!!im gunna try to patiantly wait to hear back on it!!

Post by **Rev_D21** » Wed Nov 04, 2009 3:02 pm

lavagray wrote:More info on: reindex the control arm bushings?

Sorry for the noobie question.

Control arm bushings are tightened with all four wheels on the ground. They have a predetermined range of motion once tightened down. By lowering the truck automatically those bushings are out of range due to the new angle of the control arms to the frame. To fix this you must loosen the control arm bushings, set the truck back on the ground then re tighten them to spec. This will allow them to adjust to the new control arm angle to the frame. Otherwise they will be ripped apart in a shorter amount of time because their range of motion is out of limits. Easiest to perform on an alignment rack.

Post by **Frankie Pintado** » Sat Nov 07, 2009 5:29 pm

So I'm still planning on trying this sometime in the near future, but I don't see it as very promising. I expect that it will ride like crap.

Here's the problem. The red spring is a helper spring. It responds to the load on the truck bed. When the two longer leaves are too soft for the road and load conditions, the helper springs come into play, stiffening the ride the more the leaf spring assembly is straightened.

I probably don;t need to explain to you guys that lower and softer simply will not work. Some of this could be compensated for with stiffer shocks, but still... this is a violation.

So the two long springs will probably not be stiff enough. The truck will probably bounce and bottom out.

But what about this: How about just clamping the helper spring to the other springs right where it is? The lowering effect would be similar, and the original behavior of the spring would be preserved, only it would act like it was fully loaded. In other words, it would be stiffer and lower. In fact, I don't see why it wouldn't be adjustable: just move the clamps closer together or further apart. I think this is much more promising.

Post by **bracktheron720** » Sat Nov 07, 2009 8:02 pm

Iv got load leveling springs on my truck they are short thick extra leaf springs in front and behind the axle..like these

http://auto.sears.com/HELLWIG-...05981

im tryin to get the A$$ end lower...what do i do with these??lose them??wrench um down??any ideas....after talkin to a few people and following this iv decided im thinkin blocks for now and a rearch of the springs as the project gets a little further along

Post by **PEZi** » Sat Nov 07, 2009 10:08 pm

frankie... your plan is basically a cheap way of doing a spring re-arch... the problem is that a real re-arch is proven and your way could possibly not end up working out... a re-arch at a spring shop is all labor so if its done at a place that's done them before it should be a relatively quick and cheap mod

Post by **Frankie Pintado** » Sun Nov 08, 2009 5:31 am

oh I know. This is all very experimental. That's why I'm volunteering my truck as a guinea pig (been experimented on before). ...and it does deserve a disclaimer:DO NOT DO THIS AT HOME. HIRE A PROFESSIONAL SPRING SHOP.

Please note that I have never been to a spring shop, and will have to do a little homework on what 're-arching' is. I did just pass my ASE test on 'steering, suspension, and alignment' after taking a semester of it at the community college, for what it's worth.

I'm only comparing my idea to the idea of re-locating the helper spring to the top of the assembly. Niether way is the proper way, that's not what I'm after here. I'm looking for the cheapest, safe, reasonably comfortable way for Harry Homeowner to drop this thing a couple inches. Maybe I'm grasping at shadows. Won't know for sure till I try it. Since it costs next to nothing, and I can find the time, why not?

Also, I know that you mentioned that you do not have much of a problem with axle wrap. I do have a slight problem in 1st and 2nd. Actually, since I put that weber 38 on there, it's a pretty bad problem. And I do need to load down my truck bed with tools sometimes. So I'm very hesitant to do anything that will soften the springs. Almost as hesitant as I am to sink money into this truck.

Post by **Rev_D21** » Sun Nov 08, 2009 6:54 am

I was just flipping through the August 1998 Minitruckin' and found this... http://www.activesuspension.com/

They did a review of it installed on a lowered 95 Toyota Tacoma. They took it through its paces both on the road and on the drag strip. They claimed it eliminated axle wrap while maintaining a quality ride. Might be worth it to look into it...

Post by **pejsa s-13** » Sun Nov 08, 2009 11:41 am

hey sorry it took me so long to actually do it but i did a write up on it in a thread in the forum here check it out...

IT WORKS LIKE A CHARM I LOVE IT

Post by **bracktheron720** » Sun Nov 08, 2009 11:58 am

pejsa s-13 wrote:hey sorry it took me so long to actually do it but i did a write up on it in a thread in the forum here check it out...

IT WORKS LIKE A CHARM I LOVE IT

where do i check it out????

Post by **PEZi** » Sun Nov 08, 2009 1:12 pm

Reverend D wrote:I was just flipping through the August 1998 Minitruckin' and found this... http://www.activesuspension.com/

this looks awesome!!! but it doesn't change height on its own so after a re-arch this would be sweet!!!

Post by **Frankie Pintado** » Sun Nov 08, 2009 5:27 pm

Here is something on clamping springs. I like this idea, maybe with some blocks.

http://www.hotrodders.com/foru....html

...and Bam!

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-1293/

Modified by Frankie Pintado at 7:32 PM 11/8/2009

Post by **pejsa s-13** » Sun Nov 08, 2009 6:11 pm

i tried clamping it doent work nearly as good.. not as much drop and its the cheap a$$ way

Post by **Frankie Pintado** » Mon Nov 09, 2009 2:00 pm

Cheap a$$ way you say? that's a start. I'm looking for maybe 1" out of the clamps, and the rest from 2" blocks. Yeah, maybe that's not the greatest way, but I want to try it for myself.

What about axle wrap? did it help with that? See, I'm at stock ride height having a problem, add blocks (leverage) and I'll be bucking.

Post by **PEZi** » Mon Nov 09, 2009 2:51 pm

i guess i just don't make enough power for axle wrap or somethin... only experienced it once

Post by **pejsa s-13** » Mon Nov 09, 2009 4:19 pm

i did notice improvement off the line (less wrap)cornering improved as well

this is just in my case though not saying everyone here will have the same results

Post by **Rev_D21** » Mon Nov 09, 2009 4:50 pm

I seriously doubt these trucks put enough to the pavement to cause axle-wrap. Axle hop perhaps. The option for that is using traction bars. Now if you start getting into turbos and whatnot then I could see some problems down the line. My Datsun with its Z22 would chirp second all day long but never had enough to torsionally twist the spring pack. I would guess that under load axle wrap could happen but we have next to no weight in the rear, the tires would tear loose before the spring packs took any abuse. By removing leaves from the pack I could see axle wrap for sure.

Post by **moneymike** » Sun Dec 20, 2009 6:00 pm

good guide just got done slamming my d21 to the ground. Front was a breeze, the back on the other hand wasn't so pleasant. Used a grinder to take off the u bolts didnt bother trying to socket them. took a while to line it up but in all i got it done. I went with 3" drop in the back 4" in the front ill be posting some picks of my truck and the work i am doing to it soon.

Post by **jdamion** » Tue Jan 05, 2010 10:55 pm

Reverend D wrote:The only thing I might want to suggest is re-indexing your control arm bushings with the weight of the truck on them. This will prevent over extending them since they were torqued with the original ride height in mind. It's just a matter of loosening them and re-torquing them which allows them to adjust to the new ride height. Bushings only have so much travel and by lowering the truck they go out of their "range" thus shortening their life. Re-indexing them allows for the new ride height while keeping the bushings within "range".

if i only dropped it 1-2 inches all around would i still have to re index my shocks? just wondering

Post by **jdamion** » Thu Jan 07, 2010 11:57 am

I think i'll just make some clamps for the back end and do a small 1 inch block.

And no, i havent "re-indexed" the shocks.

Post by **Frankie Pintado** » Sat Jan 09, 2010 5:54 am

My suspension instructor (with 30 years experience, fully certified, member of guild of engineers, etc.) says that he can even get the axle to wrap on an automatic. It doesn't take a whole lot of power to tweak a leaf spring; I can compress the leaf springs with my hands and the truck will squat at least an inch. How many horsepower would you say my hand has?Maybe we're not talking about the same thing Rev.

I can certainly tell when it's happening, but then again I carry a good bit of weight sometimes.

Post by **NissanXEPIlot** » Mon Feb 22, 2010 3:00 pm

Nice write up. But nobody mentioned bumpstops. Im still rollin' a staic drop of 3" in the rear with the front leveled with the rear via torsions. Im using Energy Suspension ultra low profiles on the front and homemade rear bumpstops made from a rubber PVC coupling for 4" pipe thats been cut and mounted with self tapping screws. If you dont want my option for the rear Energy suspension sells rear bumpstops also.

http://www.4x4parts.com is the best and cheapest place online I've found. Here's a link to all their bumpstops too.

https://www.4x4parts.com/catal...7_127

Post by **Rev_D21** » Mon Feb 22, 2010 3:10 pm

jdamion wrote:if i only dropped it 1-2 inches all around would i still have to re index my shocks? just wondering

Let us know how it works out for you.

Quick way to lower a nissan/datsun pickup

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