It's a '90 Q45t, with 91,500 miles. Plenum, valve and timing covers off; new chains and chain guides in place; time to button up. BUT, part of the old guides must be in the pan. Not too much, about an inch of missing material.
Pulling the pan looks to be a real chore! I have an engine hoist which may not fit under the hood easily, and only the right side engine slinger is present. Then there are those pesky air conditioner and alternator mounts to deal with. Then the front cross member. The list goes on.
So, here's my question. What is my risk if I don't pull the pan and look for those missing guide pieces? I know there is a strainer on the oil pickup, and I know that if picked up by the oil pump any bits would go through the oil filter before being routed to the engine.
Has anyone left the pieces in the pan and had a problem later?
Words of wisdom greatly appreciated:help
Pulling Q45 Oil Pan-Do I have to?
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John Nordling
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- Joined: Thu Jul 24, 2003 6:37 pm
Manix, Palmer, Nick - I'm convinced! I read the Boomstriker posts and went out to the garage and started the process. Car is now on railroad ties for safety and I have the alternator and air conditioner compressor loose and the related bracket pulled. So far, so good.
Thanks for the guidance.............John
Thanks for the guidance.............John
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Q451990
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- Car: 1990 Q45 - 118K, 2022 Toyota 4 Runner, 2004 Frontier M/T - 108K, 2012 Xterra (Mom's), 2023 Rogue (Inlaws)
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911/Q45 wrote:Removing the hood is probably to your advantage.
As a side note... if you do this, have several people help you. The hood is made of DuraSteel which is a blend of aluminum and steel, so it's very flexible - read fold like a taco if you handle it wrong! I'd have one person on each corner if possible.
Heath
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John Nordling
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John Nordling
- Posts: 68
- Joined: Thu Jul 24, 2003 6:37 pm
911/Q45 wrote:Good time to swap motor mounts, while you're under there. Removing the hood is probably to your advantage.
Already have the motor mounts on order. Seems to take longer over the holidays.
About removing the hood (and this is for Heath too), it wasn't necessary. I put an ATV jack under the transmission and an engine hoist under the hood with room to spare. Only problem was fabricating an engine slinger for the left side.
Thanks for the tips.
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John Nordling
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- Joined: Thu Jul 24, 2003 6:37 pm
Everything went well until I got to pulling the actual suspension crossmember. I just can't seem to get it to budge.90Q45blue wrote:If you can give a 100% guarantee that every oil filter you use from now until the end of the car's life will be 100% in perfect working order during the entire time of use, then I guess you don't have to pull the pan.
But since no can give that guarantee, I would pull it.
Nick
The engine is supported and the nuts holding the motor mounts to the crossmember are off. The two outer nuts on both sides holding the crossmember to the frame are off. The middle nut looks like it doesn't have to come off, and I would have to pull the lower suspension arm to gain access to that third nut. There seems to be a hole in the crossmember and the nut doesn't appear to attached by that nut. Is this my problem?
Also, the four bolts holding the steering rack to the crossmember ard off and the rack can be pushed aside. The front sway bar has been removed as well. All of the wires and hoses and/or steel lines are loose. I have pulled the four bolts on the transmission holding the strengthening brace that brackets the engine and transmission. I have not taken off the bolts from the engine; they are very difficult to get at. Could this be my problem?
The car is supported on the frame rails on each side by a tier of three railroad ties to allow the wheels to be free. That should allow the crossmember to be lowered even though the strut brace and lower control arm are still attached. Would removing these sove my problem?
I'm stuck and I was hoping to get the oil pan off tomorrow so I can actually replace something instead of taking it apart! You should see all the boxes of stuff in my garage. ALL WORDS OF WISDOM GREATLY APPRECIATED.:help
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John Nordling
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Thanks, Fred. Actually, I went ahead and solved the problem. My question was worded poorly, "There seems to be a hole in the crossmember and the nut doesn't appear to attached by that nut. Is this my problem?"
Turns out that this was the problem. You need to remove the transverse link from the crossmember to gain "good" access to the middle nuts on the crossmember.
Everything is now off except the oil pan. I'm doing that this afternoon.........John
Turns out that this was the problem. You need to remove the transverse link from the crossmember to gain "good" access to the middle nuts on the crossmember.
Everything is now off except the oil pan. I'm doing that this afternoon.........John
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John Nordling
- Posts: 68
- Joined: Thu Jul 24, 2003 6:37 pm
Just wanted to follow up on pulling the oil pan. Finally got it off, and sure enough, chain guide pieces of all sizes down in the oil pickup hole. Found three pieces of apparantly similiar type material in the oil pickup screen. Had to pull them out with needle nose pliers.
Lots of work, but I will now have piece of mind! Of course, I am also replacing the tension rod bushings and steering rack boots. Still, they needed to be done. so having everything apart makes it easier.
Lots of work, but I will now have piece of mind! Of course, I am also replacing the tension rod bushings and steering rack boots. Still, they needed to be done. so having everything apart makes it easier.
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John Nordling
- Posts: 68
- Joined: Thu Jul 24, 2003 6:37 pm
Actually maxnix, I was cleaning parts outside when it was about 25 degrees. It was worth it because everything will go back together much easier! (had to keep a pan of warm water on hand to put my rubber-gloved hands in. Wife thinks (knows) i'm certifiable when it comes to cars.) ps, when are you in Seattle?
Heath, the color was dark, but not very gunky. There were some deposits under the timing covers, but I cleaned them off when I did the chain guides. Same color in the pan and on the engine underside, but surprisingly not a lot of gunk except in the oil pickup area with the broked chain guide bits. I cleaned the pan very thoroughly! When I get it running again, I will opt for an engine flush as well.
Q45Tech, I agree with your analysis about oil changes. I don't want to take the filter off until I can put a new one on, but I'll take your advice and cut the filter open. Let you know what I find. Because of this, I am going to change the oil pump as well. New question coming at you on this topic.
Thanks everyone for the continued support. Doesn't fell so lonely in the garage these days.............John
Heath, the color was dark, but not very gunky. There were some deposits under the timing covers, but I cleaned them off when I did the chain guides. Same color in the pan and on the engine underside, but surprisingly not a lot of gunk except in the oil pickup area with the broked chain guide bits. I cleaned the pan very thoroughly! When I get it running again, I will opt for an engine flush as well.
Q45Tech, I agree with your analysis about oil changes. I don't want to take the filter off until I can put a new one on, but I'll take your advice and cut the filter open. Let you know what I find. Because of this, I am going to change the oil pump as well. New question coming at you on this topic.
Thanks everyone for the continued support. Doesn't fell so lonely in the garage these days.............John