Unfortunately the poor guy in the video was told by his dealership that his problem was normal and they left him hanging.

Leo, it appears you got an entire new CVT transmission as well as the AWD transaxle, I'm glad Nissan took care of!

I'm curious, why are planning on selling the Rogue?

Because I'm ready for a brand new car. Not sure yet what to get but I might get '12 Rogue

I am looking at purchasing a Rogue, as my next car. All this talk about the CVT and acceleration issues is kind of making me re-think my choice. Does anyone know if all these problems, are with the trim model, that does not allow for manual shifting? I would think, telling the computer which gear you want, would maybe alleviate the problem.

Hey Leo I am having the same problem with my 2010 Rogue and I am also getting the run around. Would you mind telling me the dealer you went to so I can contact them as a reference? Also did the problem go away with the fix Nissan performed?
Thanks Robert

The problem did go away since they replaced the whole transmission. Actually this is the dealership that I'm visiting all the time these days. They replaced both wheel bearings 2 times at no charge but I have no warranty on the car. Small shop changed oil couple months ago and I had a pretty bad leak but that dealership fixed it for me for a small charge...did inspection etc. It's Hoselton at East Rochester, NY http://www.hoselton.com I was at 2 other dealerships (including the one that I bought the car from) and they were saying the car is fine.

I have a 2008 Nissan Rogue. I am having terrible problems with the vehicle losing power. I have read several very similar complaints on line. I have taken it to Nissan 3 times and each time they tell me there is nothing wrong with it. I am very afraid to drive it because the milage between incidents have become shorter and shorter. Two times I have been driving on a major highway (70 in Maryland) and all of a sudden it will not accelerate and the petal was to the floor. Luckily I was not in heavy traffic at the time. Just last Friday I went on a 45 mile trip and pulled up to the red light, when the light turned green, it was like the car was in neutral and would only go 2 mph. I was lucky and got it off the side of the side enough that everyone could go past me. I put it in park, waited until the light turned green again and everyone had gone by. I then put it in drive and it was like it never happened. My Nissan dealer acts like they have never heard of such a problem, but apparently there are many many people with this issue. I have placed a complain with Nissan today and I am going back to the dealership today since I have read all of the posts with similar problems. This is just totally unacceptable to me.

I work at a Nissan dealership and I see this all the time. It's a combination of fluid level of the transmission and coolant freeze protection. If you haven't serviced the transmission and you have 30k miles then it should be done. Just a drain and fill would be sufficient. Coolant protection should test at -25 to -34 degrees depending on where you live. Anything lower than that like -50 will cause the transmission to overheat and go into a fail safe mode which you have explained. If the Nissan dealership knows nothing about this don't take it there. I'm sure they wouldn't how to set up the coolant and transmission correctly. Also if you have ever been in a accident and the radiator has been replaced it has to be a Nissan one. If its aftermarket you will run into the same issues. Last but not least if the check engine light comes on it just may need a replacement. Hope this helps.

Ddflosrt wrote:I work at a Nissan dealership and I see this all the time. It's a combination of fluid level of the transmission and coolant freeze protection. If you haven't serviced the transmission and you have 30k miles then it should be done. Just a drain and fill would be sufficient. Coolant protection should test at -25 to -34 degrees depending on where you live. Anything lower than that like -50 will cause the transmission to overheat and go into a fail safe mode which you have explained. If the Nissan dealership knows nothing about this don't take it there. I'm sure they wouldn't how to set up the coolant and transmission correctly. Also if you have ever been in a accident and the radiator has been replaced it has to be a Nissan one. If its aftermarket you will run into the same issues. Last but not least if the check engine light comes on it just may need a replacement. Hope this helps.

welcome to the boards. its great to have someone with your experience around. don't be a stranger and visit frequently!

Ddflosrt wrote:I work at a Nissan dealership and I see this all the time. It's a combination of fluid level of the transmission and coolant freeze protection. If you haven't serviced the transmission and you have 30k miles then it should be done. Just a drain and fill would be sufficient. Coolant protection should test at -25 to -34 degrees depending on where you live. Anything lower than that like -50 will cause the transmission to overheat and go into a fail safe mode which you have explained. If the Nissan dealership knows nothing about this don't take it there. I'm sure they wouldn't how to set up the coolant and transmission correctly. Also if you have ever been in a accident and the radiator has been replaced it has to be a Nissan one. If its aftermarket you will run into the same issues. Last but not least if the check engine light comes on it just may need a replacement. Hope this helps.

Same problem as others. I can drive 2 hours in the city with no problems. A 1-2 hours of HWY and same as what has been mentioned above. No error codes from the computer from dealer.

Thank you Ddflosrt for posting a simple solution that makes sense. It does say in the owner's manual that the CVT will go into protection mode if the
CVT fluid heats up but as many have mentioned this could be a safety hazard when making a left at an intersection.

Will try this at my 48,000 KM maintenance and test going to the cottage.

Our 2013 Rouge is having the same issue. It did it to me 3 times today. The car has about 2k miles on it. My husband took it for a drive around the block and didnt have any issues with it. He said he did notice that the auto headlamps wouldnt turn off automatically in the sun and the dash lights wouldnt light up. I will be taking it to the dealer this week.

I had the exact same issue in July 2012. Driving south to Utah from Edmonton, Canada. The car had been driven for 8 hours the previous day and we were 5 hours into an 8 hour drive on day 2 in Middle-Of-Nowhere-Idaho. Yes is was hot and of course my car is black. Couldn't accelerate and RPMs wouldn't go past 2900. Fearing the car would never start again we coasted down the hills (thankfully no cops saw us flying at 120 mph) to get enough momentum to get up the next hill. We had my 3 year old in the car and feared getting stranded in the middle of no where. We limped up the hills and used the declines to keep moving. Like everyone else, once we stopped the car to fill up or eat it worked fine again- for awhile. I took it into a dealership in Utah and they pulled the tranny apart. They told me it looked like the CVT had been put through a meat grinder there were so many twisted metal shards. The tech said it rained metal pieces on him. They replaced the entire CVT under warranty. I'm now nervous about this car. I'm not confident on long highway trips anymore and am wondering if I should sell. I'm getting close to the 120k warranty replacement for the CVT not that I'm even sure they would replace it a second time for free. Any thoughts? Thanks!!

pseudowolf wrote:I had the exact same issue in July 2012. Driving south to Utah from Edmonton, Canada. The car had been driven for 8 hours the previous day and we were 5 hours into an 8 hour drive on day 2 in Middle-Of-Nowhere-Idaho. Yes is was hot and of course my car is black. Couldn't accelerate and RPMs wouldn't go past 2900. Fearing the car would never start again we coasted down the hills (thankfully no cops saw us flying at 120 mph) to get enough momentum to get up the next hill. We had my 3 year old in the car and feared getting stranded in the middle of no where. We limped up the hills and used the declines to keep moving. Like everyone else, once we stopped the car to fill up or eat it worked fine again- for awhile. I took it into a dealership in Utah and they pulled the tranny apart. They told me it looked like the CVT had been put through a meat grinder there were so many twisted metal shards. The tech said it rained metal pieces on him. They replaced the entire CVT under warranty. I'm now nervous about this car. I'm not confident on long highway trips anymore and am wondering if I should sell. I'm getting close to the 120k warranty replacement for the CVT not that I'm even sure they would replace it a second time for free. Any thoughts? Thanks!!

Did you ever have the trans fluid changed? If so how many times?
Had you ever flushed or drained your coolant? If so how many times?

I've had all the scheduled maintenance completed on my vehicle. So as far as I know, that is a yes to both questions. Unless of course my dealership screwed me...

Parents own a 2011 Nissan Rogue.

During their warranty, in 2012/2013 and around 40K miles, they started having problems with their transmission. On longer trips the Rogue would lose power, RPMS wouldn't go over 2500RPM and acceleration would drop to below 40MPH. This happened chronically on longer trips, including uphill stretches.

The service center @TemeculaNissan couldn't diagnose the problem during multiple services. Not until after the warranty expired did they pinpoint the faulty transmission. But of course, they don't want to cover it now and want to charge my parents (who by the way are older, ailing and unable to afford this).

I see that Nissan extended the warranty on 2008-2010 Rogues, among other Nissans, to cover similar symptoms of the transmission, but not on the 2011.

Does anyone have any insight, similar stories? Is there a class action lawsuit brewing?

Help would be much appreciated.

We have had the same problem with our 2009 Sentra. On long trips we find that after a while we can't get over 2500 RPM, and if you keep driving, 2000 RPM. I find the problem happens only on long trips and it happens sooner if we are driving more aggressively, passing more and having to accelerate more often. If we just coast at a steady speed it doesn't happen as quickly. Once the problem happens if we pull over and turn the car off for a few minutes we can sometimes get back up to 3000 RPM but the acceleration is still very slow and we can't get higher, and in less than 5 minutes we're down to 2500 RPM. VERY stressful when driving the 13 hour drive home from Thunder Bay.

Neither my mechanic nor the dealership could reproduce the problem and no fault codes on the computer. I will talk to my mechanic about the suggested solutions on this board & get back to you to see what works. We're in Canada so I wouldn't think it would be the temperature of the CVT fluid but it has been a hot summer so maybe...

2015 Rogue 4 door, all the options.

Wife driving from LA to SB this afternoon. Doing 65 in the fast lane. Sudden loss of power and vehicle would not accelerate beyond 65mph for several minutes. No lights on dash. Plenty of fuel in tank. Eventually resolved without her stopping. Has never done this in town. Pretty warm day. Shocked to see so many complaints dating back over four years on the same vehicle and see it still happening on a pretty new 2015 model. This car will be headed out of our family pretty quickly I think. We like it otherwise, but this sort of bizarre behavior happening over years indicates to me a fundamental design flaw that the company itself has not been able to eradicate, meaning they don't understand what the problem is.

Thanks to the guy who said to check the coolant and the transmission fluid level.

Karl in LA

I have a 2003 Sentra 1.8L

I have intermittently for years now experienced this non-acceleration issue.
Maybe once every 2 months so no fix yet.
When I lose the ability to accelerate that is only when the vehicle is in gear.
If I stop, shift to park or neutral I can always rev the engine.
It is just sliding the shift into drive or reverse that the accelerator does nada. Just sits at idle.

Any new clues or feedback would be great.

I'm having the same accelerating issue with my 2014 Altima. Was anyone ever able to find out what's wrong? Its happening nearly every time I drive my car.

It is possible it is battery voltage triggered. Try running with headlights, make sure the alternator is outputing. I had this at under 12.5 volts. Never happened at 14.5 volts. And it was/is an electronic gas pedal issue. The computer is unable to process the proper controls at the lower voltage. sara dot j at embarqmail dot com

Hi Everyone

We are from the UK on a 3 year military posting.

We purchased a 2009 Rogue which we are generally happy with however it does have this acceleration problem as many others appear to have.

We bought from a local dealer and whilst the factory warranty has just ran out we did pay extra to buy a warranty through when we purchased the car.

how do we go about getting this fault repaired? Take it to Nissan and get them to sort under the warranty? I'm guessing it would be best to take it to them as they are aware of the problem/fault?

Thanks in advance for any replies.

I found my problem only occurred when the battery voltage was low. Ended up having a poor connection at the alternator to the heavy gauge wire. An immediate fix would be to turn off the headlights, turn down the blower fan in the car, etc to reduce the load on the battery at the time.

I have a 2015 Nissan Pathfinder platinum with 17k miles and it also is having the same issues, After leaving there dealership for the second time in a week it did the same thing unfortunately they were closed, they seem to be blowing us off the first time they said they adjusted the brake switch, the second they said they changed it, I just called and spoke to the dealership manager since the service manager was unhelpful and told her I felt unsafe driving the vehicle with my kids in it and she said they will give us another loaner that can fit the car seats, but I'm not optimistic I'll get a fix, has any one had a fix they feel safe with? I'm ready to get rid of car and buy a not Nissan

My 2002 Nissan did the same thing. I was going down the road with a semi truck behind me when it just would not go. I was able to pull off road to avoid being hit. It turned out that the transmission has three speed sensors. Two on top and one underneath. It was the one underneath that no one knew about that was the problem. The big deal with it was that the Nissan dealerships did not know about them either. My mechanic had to call the main office and tell them what it was doing and they are the ones who told him about the third speed sensor under the transmission. Once that was replaced, no more problem.

I usually have this same problem with my 2014 Rogue. It usually happens when I am driving on the highway and get off at an exit. The weather is typically warm and windy. Today though the weather was cool and not windy. I was driving at about 80 mph and got off at my exit as normal. Every thing seems fine until I have to push on the gas and the car acts like it will go at first and then goes into limp mode. I let off the gas and back on, but nothing starts working until I am about halfway across the bridge and then it just kicks on like normal and starts going. It is scary and I think the people behind me think I am messing with them.

I also have times when I driving down the road and let off the gas and when I push back down it feels like I am going over rumble strips.

Anything absolutely work for people on fixing these two problems?

Sounds like maybe your brake switch is falsing. The TCM on all Nissan CVT's monitors the brake lamps and won't let the car accelerate if it thinks the brake is applied. Nissan brake switches frankly aren't the greatest, we replace a lot of them. Next time it acts up, see if there's a reflection from the high brake lamp in the back window (easier if it happens after dark). If it's lit when it shouldn't be, that's the problem. If you're a lefty braker, also make sure you're not accidentally dragging the pedal. Probably a quarter of the "no acceleration" cases we see are lefties who don't realize careless dragging confuses the tranny.

Greetings Vstar, it's me, the pain in the rear subwoofer guy. BTW, thanks again for the insight on that, the sound system is awesome with my 12" Kenwood pounding back there. Now I have a serious issue. I got this Rogue with 34k and change. It was a leased car from New Jersey but upon playing with the navi, most of the addresses this car visited were Staten Island NY. I purchased it private sale from my employer who bought it for his daughter to drive back and forth to school. He bought it from Peak Kia, a new Kia dealership here in the Denver CO. area. My oldest son is a mechanic at a Toyota dealership back in Maine but he works on Nissans more than Toyotas unless you throw in the Tacoma frame replacements he does on overtime because the sister Nissan dealership next door is always overloaded with service issues and recall work. I was in a spot when I bought it and I have never owned a Nissan before and the only foreign cars before this were a Mazda GLC way back when I was a kid, and a Toyota Corolla for a short time after my divorce in 2007. I've always been a GM driver as I do most of my own maintenance and mechanical work and in my experience they have always been the cheapest and easiest to deal with and ever since my first 350, have always been a SBC guy. These days I'm not so picky about what I drive,I just needed a low mileage car that wasn't too bad on the pocket and this deal fit the bill. I like the car in a sense that it's not a base model, it's an SV so it has most of the creature comforts and wheels instead of hubcaps and all that and the AWD is an animal in the snow with good tires on it. I did some research when I first thought about buying it and was a bit skeptical because of the few cvt issues that I had found but upon talking to my son about it, he said Rogues are solid, he told me to avoid Frontiers and Altimas because they are always in for major mechanical issues. I didn't make the connection that Rogues are similar to Ultimas as far as drive train goes. I believe I even read somewhere that Rogues are built on a modified Ultima platform or something to that effect.

Anyway, I have experienced the Chewbacca howling at higher speed acceleration conditions as well as steep down grades when the cvt is slowing the car since around 50k. I have also been working 50+ miles away from my normal area and the drive takes about an hour, all highway but half at 75 speed limit and half at 65 speed limit. The 75 stretch is for the most part un-patrolled so the 75 is usually more like 90 however there is always a trooper on the second stretch (1st on the way home) so I usually tend to not go too much over 70 because he always has someone pulled over and I think that if he doesn't he's certainly looking for somebody to pull over. It's all flatland driving as I head east away from Denver and then North to Kersey where the current job site is. Twice on the way home I experienced the loss of power toward the end of the trip. Once was a lot more severe than the other however each had it's own set of issues. It wasn't particularly warm either day but I had been driving the car a bit harder than normal. The first time, it started losing acceleration abilities about 5 miles from my exit but although I had to get in the right lane and watch everybody I just pushed out of my way go back past me, it made it home ok except for the severe lack of power. The second time it did almost that exact same scenario but for a shorter period but when I was at the light where the off ramp from the highway meets the surface street that goes to where I live, when the light turned green and I stepped on the gas... almost nothing and the guy behind me almost rear ended me. I kept playing with the gas pedal and got it to slowly creep up to an almost usable speed but it kept bucking and chugging through the loss of power phases and "I've got a little left in me" and that continued the half mile or so trip to the next light where I turn left and it's a darn good thing I was aware of it and waited until all the vehicles going the other way had gone through the intersection because if I had tried to turn with an oncoming vehicle headed toward me, there would have been a crash. Same thing as at the first light, step on the gas and almost no power at all. My street is a quick right after that light and I'm home but shaking a bit and really nervous about owning this car now. Those were about 2 weeks apart and the second incident was about 2 weeks ago.

Yesterday on my way home, there was a tornado not far from where I am working. It was far enough away so that I wasn't really nervous but it was coming toward the job site. I got some killer video of it. I was a little nervous though because it was my first experience seeing an actual live tornado and it was close enough that the Kersey tornado sirens were howling. That's a nerve racking sound in itself. So it broke up and the storm moved on but on the trip, there was still some major turbulence and a few heavy spots of rain and the whole atmosphere, both physically and mentally, for me for sure and I am thinking for most others as well, was a bit more chaotic than normal. So a little more than halfway home on the fast leg of the trip I was blazing along at about 85 in the left lane and as I came upon one of the on ramps, there were 3 cars coming onto the highway which normally isn't a big deal. I stay in the left lane and they merge on into the right lane, however the 2 cars behind evidently weren't happy with the lead car's acceleration abilities and they tried to occupy the left lane at the same time at about 50. they didn't look or if they did they didn't care that I was coming along about 40 mph faster than they were going and they almost hit each other right in front of me and I had to get on the binders really hard to avoid running into them. It really got me going so when they finally decided to calm down and get back into the right lane, I had plans to fly by them with a popular salute that we like to give idiot drivers around here but when I floored it, no power. The car actually started slowing down and the next car moving along behind me, had to get on their brakes to avoid hitting me. So I let them all go by on the right and then after I believe I got the salute that I had planned on delivering, continued to try and feather the gas pedal to maintain a highway speed but it just wasn't happening. I crept it along on the shoulder for a mile or so to the next exit and barely made it into a gas station parking lot. I shut the car off and figured it would be a good idea for both of us to cool down a bit. I got a drink and a snack and did some general cleaning and organizing of the interior, popped the hood and looked around, checked the oil and brake fluids and the routine visual. Nothing out of the ordinary. I do need an oil change but it's not overdue and I have one scheduled for the middle of the month when it's due, next Wednesday. I closed the hood and decided to give it a go. As soon as I started the car, I knew I wasn't going anywhere in it for the time being. It will start but it will only idle very roughly for between 5 and 10 seconds and then quits. I can keep doing that until the battery won't turn it over anymore but that's it. Can't step on the accelerator or try to put it into gear, it just quits instantly. I got it towed here to my place today and was hoping things had changed but they have not. My friend who is a mechanic by trade came over with his computer and it says "Pass, no codes stored". So now I don't know what to start with. I don't have available funds to have it towed to and fixed by a dealer or any other service shop at the moment. I can replace any parts it may need, including the cvt but I'm not in my element here with a foreign car and especially one with all these bells and whistles that are supposed to make these cars "better". I've owned newer Chevy trucks recently but didn't have any problems with any of them. I put 245k on my last one before the fuel pump went and then when I put a new one in the MFI started going nuts so I parked it and bought this. The truck has since been sold and now I'm wishing I'd have just fixed the truck. Any insight into what hard braking and then flooring it could do to render it non drivable?

Sounds like garbage in the MAF. Most Nissans (including Rogues) have no MAP sensor for the ECM to double-check MAF function, so when a MAF lies because of a piece of fiber or a butterfly wing, that's exactly the sort of behavior you get.

Thanks, I will check it out tomorrow. That would be a blessing. My kid said something like catalytic converter clogged so I looked them up and not only are they expensive, it looks like a pain in the rear. Exhaust work has never been one of my favorites...

Had this same problem with a tiny bug wing on a cadallac srx, but I also had the infamous code showing up.

I doubt a typical butterfly wing would fit though.