Please help anyone!!

[Rileyml1]

I have a 2007 Nissan Sentra SER Spec-V. (First thing be for reading this please note that there is a recall for the master cylinder that has already been replace by Nissan dealer.)

I am having a very big brake problem that I can't seem to fix and is getting worse. My brake pedal is VERY TOUCHY. Every time I go to put on the brakes its harder pedal. The car has had the Dot 3 brake fluid flushed twice and all brake lines bleed. (This has been done with a brake line pump. This has been done 100% the way Nissan dealerships bleeds brakes) I have replace my rotors with Centric power slot cryo rotors. My old rotors were warped from a 75-0 stop as hard as the car let me. There was a pile up on the interstate that I did not want to become part of. But the problem did not happen then. This problem happened when I was just driving down the road on a warm winter day and went to put the brakes on. What happened was I went to slow down around a turn that has a red light, the first time I applied the brakes everything was fine.(the brake pedal was nice a plush with like any one car I drove) When I went to apply them again to make the final stop the brakes became Very hard. Ever since that day I have been having problems braking. I had the brake system flushed, new rotors and pads, tested the vacuum on the brake booster. Everything checks out on that end so now I am stuck. I have checked all simple things that I know off still can't find the problem. Can anyone Please help me. Nissan says it is OK but I know it is not I put 40K miles on the car and I know what the brakes should feel like.

Also note here is PA we have had lot of rain the past 2 days. For some reason not sure my brakes started to hum when I applied them on my way to work. Now last night I had to work a overnight so I had little time on my hands. So I went on a little drive took the car to about 80 mph and did a good stop (not a full stop just a slow roll so no pad in-print would happen) When I did this there was Smoke pouring from the brakes and now I have a blue almost warped looking color on both my rotors. Now when I was driving back to work I noticed that there was no hum but still stiff pedal. Also now I'm scared I really did damage to my new pads and rotors. On my ways home i took the highway and could not tell that the rotors were warped. So that is a good thing but not sure why the rotors turned that color I did harder stops from people pulling out in front of me or coming off the highway. Any idea?

Thanks Riley

Sorry about editing fixing spelling mistakes.
Modified by Rileyml1 at 4:05 AM 3/29/2010

[ABNRML4U]

First I like to say Welcome to NicoClub I am willing to bet It's your Centric power slot cryo rotors. Do you have 4 wheel disk brakes? It would be nice if you had a set of stock rotors laying around just to test to see if that is the problem. IMO. Im just thinking that is the problem is all I may be wrong but im only trying to help is all. Good Luck becareful and don't give up yet.

[Rileyml1]

The problem i am having happened be for i replace my rotors. I replace them bc oem factory r junk. the rotors r not the problem i know that for a fact. I just checked the booster hose. Should only let air in one way and it is working 100%. Only thing i can think of is the power booster. I am not sure if that is the problem. I really want to be sure be for i order the part.
Modified by Rileyml1 at 7:25 AM 3/29/2010

[djtorello]

did you have the recall on the master cylinder done? Did they check for fluid in the booster? There should be none. As for your rotors changing colors, and blue smoke, i think someone didnt clean the oil off the face of the rotors. They all come with a protective oil to prevent rust until install. You can clean that off with brake cleaner. The humming noise can be alot of things, including tread pattern, wheel bearing, ABS problems, etc. Did anyone bleed the ABS module? make sure also the E brake is properly adjusted. Sometimes people have it up a notch without illuminating the light on the dash, and because your are now dragging your Ebrake shoes, the car tries to adjust for this new lag on the system.

[Rileyml1]

The master cylinder was replace. the ebrake is not on. The main problem is the hard brake peddle. I think it is break booster, just not sure if i want to replace a $188 part and not be fixed. the abs system was not bleed not sure were the bleeder is. Every time i look up hard brake peddle i get power brake booster. It would be nice to have another b16 spec v around Harrisburg pa. Do you know how to bleed the ABS system?

[nametakennow]

Since it's an 07, I assume you're still under warranty. I think you're probably on the right track, but you might as well let Nissan fix it... though they may hassle you about the rotors.

[nisdats]

Your ABS Module has air in it. Or your booster is bad. Either one your dealer should be able to fix. You have to be able to purge abs module if you break open the system. More than likely you will need to have some type of OBD11 computer to do this.