Ok so I swapped the cam position sensor connections and I still have the p1140 code. I know this was supposed to indicate that the ecu is bad, but should I also try switching the actual solenoid connectors as well for the same type of test? If the code is being thrown for the solenoid itself instead of for the cam sensor (which I have read on forums, but the fsm does not indicate the p1140 is thrown for anything other than the cam sensor), could it still be showing the code p1140 for the solenoid itself?

I went ahead and swapped the solenoid connectors the same way I did the cam position sensors and still get the code p1140. Looks like we've narrowed it down to a bad ecu. I'll pick up another ecu and swap it in and report back once I can verify that was the culprit. It will be a few weeks before I can get to it. Thanks again for your help, you just might have saved me a lot of pointless labor.

Yes, I meant switch the solenoid connectors. Sorry if that was not clear. To my way of thinking the cam position semsors have already been ruled out because you put in new ones.

At this point, either the ECM is bad, or the solenoid is not responding to the duty cycle order from the ECM due to low oil pressure. In that case, the ECM knows the solenoid aint working because the cam position sensor is not showing that the solenoid adjusted the cam timing like the ECM expected.

I think I may have confused you.

You will need to swap both the cam position sensor and solenoid connection. You need to do both so the ECM will see the cam advance on the solenoid it is connected to.

I will go back and edit my post so that is clear. My apologies!

Ok that makes sense, I will go back and try switching both the cam position sensor connector banks along with the corresponding solenoid connector banks and see what happens.

Ok I swapped all 4 connectors to the opposite banks and still came up with p1140. Safe to presume now that it's an issue with the ecu. I will swap in another in the coming weeks and report back with the results.

Nicely done! Your ECU is throwing a p1140 even when connected to a known good sensor. I'll look forward o hearing about how it works out.

Threw in another ecu today with matching immobilizer and chip, still get the code p1140 right after I start it. At this point I'm beyond baffled, I'm just ready to sell it and move on. I've dedicated every weekend this year to fixing this thing and it's just determined to defeat me. I'm done fighting with it, it was obviously sabotaged when I got it and who knows what the problem is. It runs and drives fine, it'll be a great car for someone who doesn't mind a pointless annoying yellow dash light. Thanks again for your help.

Well, that is bizarre. If the passenger side solenoid / cam position sensor had a problem, it should have thrown a code when you jumpered the other side to it. Also, you have swapped those parts between sides which verifies the parts themselves are working.

So I think the solenoid / cam position sensor are probably good. You also know the drivers side wiring is good since you forced a p1145 out of it by disconnecting it earlier.

The only possibility I can see is an internal short in the passenger side harness, or at one of the connectors. I.E. - somewhere in the wiring loom the power wire from the ECU is shorted across to the ground (return) wire.

If you can throw one more weekend at it, you can try wiring a set of test wires from the ECU to both the cam position sensor and the solenoid (4 wires). The original wires would need to be disconnected at the ECU plug, and at each of the connectors on the engine. Your test wires would go from the ECU plug straight to each connector under the hood. That way your new wires are 100% separate from the original wiring.

Also, while you have the four wires disconnected at the ECU plug, test for continuity between the 4 terminals - looking for an internal short in the connector.

Can't blame you for wanting to call it a day!

It doesn't need to be wired in permanently until you see if the test works.

If you scroll to one of my original posts, I mentioned I already did that. I ran completely new leads directly to the ecu from the sensor and still got the code.

I know this is an old post, but I am desperate. TrinTT, did you EVER fix this. EXACT same problem you have, even swaped wires and replaced the ECU...same issues.

My problem ended up being the Cam Phaser on the offending side. Once that was replaced, problem solved. Unfortunately the cam phaser for a 2001 to early 2002 is NLA from Nissan and aftermarket. If you can't find one at a junkyard, you are f-ed. These are NOT rebuildable in any way except by a specialist I haven't found.

I Was reading this last night to get some direction on the P1140. I did replace my cam position sensor (phase) (B1 - Driver side) yesterday and no luck. I then removed and cleaned my Intake Timing Control Solenoid Valve (brake cleaner). And took my original cam position phase sensor and swapped it with the Intake Timing Sensor right above the phase sensor.

So far so good.

Good luck

VK56's actually have a separate phase sensor at the left rear of the engine, then separate IVT control sensors at the front for each bank. They all have their own codes. P1140 is a flatline code for the bank1 IVT, if it isn't from a bad sensor then it's usually wiring. Worn-out phasers can also cause it, but that's rarer. Make sure you have solid 12V between terminals 3-Brown and 1-Black, and with the connector pulled you should have 5V on 2-Yellow. The latter is a pullup voltage from the ECM, so low/no voltage indicates an open wire.