Post by
DCaff300ZX »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/dcaff300zx-u136230.html
Fri Jul 15, 2016 10:00 pm
Let me throw this out there- perhaps you are missing one thing. I fought a cooling issue due to slow air infiltration into the cooling system with my NA for about 2 years, that despite all efforts persisted until eventually presenting itself as a leaking heater core. Crud from years of circulation of coolant from the rad settles in the lower end of the inner cores in the middle near the spout out, plugging it enough to inhibit flow and adding a catalyst for corrosion of the core and finally a leak that explained how air keeps getting into the closed cooling system and causing the creeping heat levels that shutting down peripherals will often help up until the leak finally presents on your tunnel carpet. Another possibility for air infiltration is a bad rad cap (fairly common), and not bleeding the system for air or incompletely due to rad replacement with a non-OEM rad with no upper bleeding screw setup. The correct bleeding procedure is very important for the Z32: running the fan on high with the rad cap off and full of fluid, as the engine reaches temp ensure no bubbles or pulses and full condition then cap the rad, then open the bleeder screw on top and being aware of the spinning fan, pinch the upper hose until coolant JUST hits the top of the bleeder hole (ensuring no air in system) hold 6 seconds and recap the bleeder. This ensures circulation through the core and system and NO air in the coolant...if problems occur again check for air. When safely opening the rad cap later you should have fluid right there and no air space...if air space, you have a small leak in the core, or core hoses most likely, or pin leak in the rad or even possibly corroded core hard pipes.
Use a pressure test and check for a longer period of time (when hot, and until completely cooled) and check for ANY change- my leak was so small I'd only on a few occasions ever smell coolant in the cabin, and despite the cooling problem and efforts to fix it never suspected the core until it leaked onto the floor.
As for dual electric fans and sizes and all, I myself and my Z mechanic do not believe in the dual electric fan setups and the fact Mishimoto only uses one shows that air flow is generally not the issue with Z32's, it's radiator air flow blockage (FMIC, other), air in the cooling system, and/or incorrect tuning setups that more often cause/lead to cooling problems rather than even the stock clutch fan- my 400+ HP tuned Z runs cooler than stock on a complete OEM cooling system (actually still has it's original clutch fan), always, no matter the outside temp (been out in 94 degree heat for hours) and I actually need to find a way to add about 3-4 degrees of engine heat for best idle and low end operation- so I really doubt your issue is with cooling fans and fan size/output.
Hope this helps!